tony_black1

thanks a lot.

in 100asa and 400asa in the market?

 

thanks.

thanks a lot for the feedback. i will shoot some b&w and try to see the difference. thanks again.

can you guys tell the difference of a b&w print and a color converted to b&w print ?

other than hoping and planning, there is not much technical difference in the final image in terms of tonality, contrast etc. then.

What is the difference btw shooting color film and then converting it to b&w in

photoshop versus shooting b&w?

 

In the first case, you have 2 options. Color and b&w.

 

?

so basically all i need is to remove the lens and put a cap or cardboard with a hole and then estimate the exposure time. and then go to lab and process the negatives?

Allen,

 

did the trees appear right away after all the covering and making a hole?

Thanks.

I would like to turn a room into a pinhole camera.

 

I will cover up the windows and make a hole in the middle.

 

What should be the diameter of the hole?

 

Do I need to put a lens instead of a hole?

 

And if I want to expose the scene, what kind of paper do I need?

 

How will I determine the exposure?

 

Thanks very much.

 

 

I couldnt find a suitable category for this post. I hope this one is ok.

how do you post an image without an attachment here?

where are you located? if LA or NY, you can hire Imacon scanners and get a very good quality scan which will cost you $4 per scan. Some pro labs in London has this durst sigma and drum scanner together. they scan up to 80mb files with sigma but i never tried it. I think there wont be much difference btw Nikon and Sigma scan. So I guess Nikon would be better in your case.

and also what about asking to lab to push half stop, if i just shoot without exposure compensation. but you are saying grain can happen not just underexpose but also overexpose. so i guees i will do - + and then see whats the problem.

ok thats what i will do. thanks very much.

in imacon scans.

I shot some couple test rolls with both films. I dont know what is the reason

but both films came out awfully grainy.

 

I shot them daytime on a sunny day by using the lightmeter of my contax g2 and

minolta x 700 camera. so i dont think the reason is my cameras lightmeter cause

i shot a couple rolls of color film later on which came out ok.

 

So I guess my lab screwed me by not washing them enough time. or what could be

the reason?

 

Should i tell my lab to push half stop from now on to decrease the grain?

 

or what is the other options to decrease grain in these films on a sunny day?

 

i have to shoot something this week in a restaurant by using available light

whichis pretty low. I cannot imagine the grain if in a sunny day the films

cameout that grainy how would it be in a low light place?

 

I will appreciate the feedback.

thanks a lot for the info. i shot 400 xp2 and delta 400, all developed in pro labs and scanned by imacon. i m still quite not sure about which one to choose for fashion, street and portrait , in another words all around film but mostly the mentioned categories.

How are these films compare in terms of grain, sharpness or what are their main

differences? Thanks.

Is there a big difference btw these scanners in terms of lens

sharpness,resolution, dmax etc?

i will shoot a little bit from the side but its pretty similar to your shot in terms of including the viewers and everything. yes you are right. nothing to do with the focal length of the lens.

 

when you shoot a little bit from the side 1/125sec will not be enough to freeze the walking model. and i am thinking of blowing up the pics to at least 40"x50". so i need the models very sharp at least. in your shot you only see one model and the others are not that important if they are blur or not. but if you shoot from the side then you need to freeze and then its min 1/250sec. then i dont have much room to expose properly, for the wide open aperture which is f2.8 for contax645 and f4.5 for mamiya 7. so naturally the pics comes out underexposed and that causes the grain. anyways thanks very much to everybody for their comments.

i will shoot some fashion shows as far as possible to get everything in the frame. i did some tests with contax 645 w 45mm and mamiya rz67 w 50mm. i am not really happy about the results. contax was much better due to its faster lens and easy handhold feature. since there is not much light on the viewers, that area is awfully grainy. the catwalk where the models walk is really lit well and it s fine but i still see grain and because overall there is not much light i cannot get so much depth of field .i have to shoot wide open because thats my only option. i gain something but i loose something on the other side. its a very difficult situation to photograph actually. and i have to shoot at least 1/250 sec to freeze the model walking. here is the deal. i thought may be mamiya 7ii with 43 or 50 will have better grain results. ?

Is 50mm lens has less distortion than 43mm lens?

 

And which one is more sharper at f4.5?

 

Thanks.

I rent Imacons in several labs in London and some says scan your films with

unsharp mask -120. Why is that?

Is this the best drum scanner in the market? A lab in London claims it. Just

curious.

I dont like digital and I will enlarge the pics to 40"x60" at least. so i wont use any digital cameras.