tony_black1

<p>I am currently using Mamiya RZ 67 and do a lot of night shooting. Exposure times are 2-4 min.<br>

I m thinking of switching to digital and wonder if Canon 5D MKII with good prime lenses can compete with Mamiya in terms of sharpness etc.?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I only care about the sharpness. The rest I am ok with it. I can work on photoshop for contrast, tonal value etc.</p>

<p>There is a huge price difference between these lenses.<br>

In terms of sharpness do you guys think there is a huge difference also?<br>

Any examples appreciated..</p>

<p> </p>

<p>:) so guys what camera do you recommend to use as a lightmeter for my 4x5 camera? carrying the heavy weight is not a problem.</p>

<p>so jim, what camera do you reccomend to use as a lightmeter for my 4x5 camera? i guess rz will be better right? carrying the heavy weight is not a problem.</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> I have a <strong>mamiya rz67</strong> and a <strong>contax g2</strong> . I was checking out their lightmeter and somehow their values dont match. what could it be?<br /> they are both in f 2.8, iso 100 and equivalent lenses.(mamiya rz67 has 110mm lens on it and the contax g2 has 45mm on)<br /> and pointing them out to the same scene from same distance.<br /> contax is giving a value of <strong>1/2 sec at f2.8</strong> and the mamiya is giving <strong>1/4 sec at f2.8</strong> .<br /> what could be the problem? they both expose well.<br /> ??</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I have a <strong>mamiya rz67</strong> and a <strong>contax g2</strong> . I was checking out their lightmeter and somehow their values dont match. what could it be?<br>

they are both in f 2.8, iso 100 and equivalent lenses.(mamiya rz67 has 110mm lens on it and the contax g2 has 45mm on)<br>

and pointing them out to the same scene from same distance.<br>

contax is giving a value of <strong>1/2 sec at f2.8</strong> and the mamiya is giving <strong>1/4 sec at f2.8</strong> .<br>

what could be the problem? they both expose well.<br>

??</p>

 

<p>well, my dealer looks at the photographs from an inch away. i can't just assume some people look a feet away some will look an inch away.<br>

for mf digital cameras, they are ridicoulusly expensive.<br>

long live film...</p>

 

<p>by saying exhibition quality, i mean people will come and look at the photograph from an inch distance. so i guess i will keep shooting w my mf and large format. thank you all.</p>

<p>What is the biggest size print I can have w Canon 5D mKII with and withour interpolation? And w/ interpolation what do you recommend as software ?<br>

I need to print 47" x 70"(120cm x 180cm) in exhibition quality?</p>

<p> </p>

its very interesting that when i convert the srgb images to cmyk , some has very little change which is nice. only the blacks look lighter which i can easily adjust it. but some images have red colors and the reds switches to orange. and i dont know how to get back that red red color again. any advice will be appreciated.

I will print a book soon. All my photos are in sRGB color space. I need to convert them to CMYK for the press.

The press here cannot do the conversion professionally so I have to do it on my own with Photoshop CS3.

 

How can I get the best results in CS3? Thanks.

how do you install a custom profile to photoshop cs3? and do i have to get a calibration system which calibrates the monitor and printer to each other or just to calibrate monitor would be ok? there is a big price difference btw for example printfix pro and spyder 2pro? one calibrates printer and monitor the other just the monitor as far as i understood.??

Do I need a pro calibrater machine?

 

Thanks.

my lab uses eizo monitors and i have a macbookpro laptop. there is a huge

difference btw the monitors i know, but can i at least come close in colors and

brightness? if yes how will i calibrate my monitor?

 

 

and i send images by email to several people and how will i know what they see

in their own monitor is close to what i see in my monitor? which profile i

should use?

I just download the demo version of Photokit for my cs3. it looks like a 3 stage sharpenng.

 

do you apply all 3 stages at the same time to the image if you want to get a print?

 

or you apply the capture sharpening before you do anything to the image?

 

how is the workflow goes?

 

1-open the image

2-capture sharpen

3-color correction

4-creative sharpen

5-final sharpen

 

is this order correct?

thank you all

Especially for grainy pics that are shot in low light high asa films and slides?

Which one is better for big prints?

I will be going to Berlin in two days and was wondering if anybody knows any good labs for film

processing and scanning.

 

Thanks.

so are you saying they should just process the film NORMAL?No pulling or anything like that?

Can I save this film?

 

I shot this 800asa film by mistake at 100asa.

 

What could be the results? How many stops the lab should pull the film?

 

Thanks.

i spoke to fuji uk and they said, they wont make it in uk since there is no request for this film. weird guys. its such a beautiful film.

 

anyways fuji uk told me , you can find it in usa and japan.

i hope so too. its a great film.

 

but i guess in europe they dont sell much so thats why they dont sell it in europe.

 

anyways robert white shouldnt mention it as if its discontinued.

I cant find this film in UK and France. I checked Robertwhite's website and it

says this film is discontinued.

 

Can it be true or its just a demand issue that they dont bring this film in

Europe because its not popular.