thirteenthumbs

<p>If the OS is installed on the SSD then it is disk 0 and the Windows partition is C as that is the letter assigned by Windows to the partition. Solid State Drive is a drive. On a 4 disk capable mother board the drive slots are 0, 1, 2, 3. On the performance tab you will see Disk X where X is the drive number followed by (Y) where Y is the partition letter. If the SSD has more than 1 partition and is connected to drive 0 position then the Performance tab will show separate entries for Drive 0 © and Drive 0 (D) or some other letter.</p>

<p>I do both inversion and constant rotary processing and see no difference between the 5-10 inversion every 30 seconds films and the continuous rotary processed films. Yes, I have processed the same brand and format both ways for comparison. </p> <p>If the shadows are dull or no detail then you need to increase exposure, if highlights are too dense then you need to cut development time. Exposure increase should be 1/3 to 1/2 stop, development change should be in 5 % increments. </p>

<blockquote> <p>issues have been dealt with many times on this forum. Search previous discussions and you will find everything you need to know.</p> </blockquote> <p>There is a major problem with such advise, the information may be buried in a thread with an unrelated title, the question may be ask differently using general terms not technically accurate terms. A better response would be to post a link to a thread with the desired information or the search term that will produce the desired results.<br> I have searched this site as well as other photo sites for information using correct technical terms only to get such a response with no clue as to what shade tree colloquialism the answer is hidden under.<br> Be sure to search for winding doohickey, wind gismo, and winding doodad failure.<br> If you search for your camera model and name you're in for hours of reading.<br> http://www.photo.net/search/?cx=006577976762569540560%3A1n8vmghdzjw&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&section=all&q=Mamiya+645+1000S&filter=0&sa.x=24&sa.y=12</p>

<p>It depends on how large of a image file you work on. If you want a fast system then get an i7 3+ghz with 16+gb ram.</p>

<p>The power adapter output must be the same voltage as on the scanner spec plate and provide at least as much current as the scanner requires. The fact that you can occasionally get a good scan suggest an internal mechanical or electrical problem with the scanner.<br> There is a chance that the software installation was corrupted by antivirus or other programs on your computer. Uninstall all scanner related software, defragment the hard drive, run a registry cleaner to remove all old entries, Advanced System Care ( http://www.iobit.com/iobit2015.php ) or CCleaner ( http://download.cnet.com/CCleaner/ ), turn off the antivirus and reinstall Vuescan and related software, turn on antivirus.</p>

<p>I do not know the correct term for this but it is a bad scanner. It is either the scan motor not running smoothly or the sensor electronics. If it has an external power supply try another one otherwise return it and get a refund.</p>

<p>ISO improperly set,<br> Shutter fast,<br> Meter out of calibration as previously suggested,<br> Electronic failure in the body.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I can twist the filter, but I just can't seem to pop it off.</p> </blockquote> <p>Sounds like its getting worn and going past the alignment spot. Turn it a little and rock it back and forth slightly, turn a little more and repeat the rocking repeating the sequence until you find the release/installation spot.</p>

<p>I think this is what you are looking for:<br> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_format<br> There are other useful links for " film format sizes " also:<br> https://www.google.com/search?q=film+format+sizes&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8</p>

<p>Ram, ram and more ram to your machines capacity or budget limit after saving for a few months but the 8gb to 10gb range should be adequate. My Inspiron 36xx with dual core Pentium will handle a max of 16gb ram. The XPS8500 that I do editing on will handle 32gb+. Win 8.1 will handle more ram than the motherboard. With only 2gb ram 80% may choke Windows.<br> Another improvement that will help to a lesser degree is to use a second hard drive as a scratch disk. You added a SSD so what became of the original HD, consigned to storage? Repartition it making the first partition to roughly 35gb and setting that partition as the scratch disk for PS. PS by default assigns the root partition as the scratch disk, fine for simple work. The root partition is where your start up files, drivers, and basic operating system files are located. It is the fastest access area of a hard drive but has limited free space. Making the first partition of a second HD the scratch disk gives the fastest portion of of that drive to PS exclusive use and plenty of free space for PS to store the data needed to make the editing changes to the image.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Increasing your RAM is the best thing you can do for your existing machine. Open elements, edit tab- preferences then find Memory and Cache, set memory to 60% to 70% and cache to 8, the maximum. I'll bet its currently at 40% to 50% for memory and 4 for cache.<br> I purchased a i7 quad core 3.9ghz 64 bit just after Win8 came out with 8gb RAM. I soon upped it to 16GB RAM and would go higher if I was doing regular image editing. After XP support ended I bought a dual core Pentium 3GHZ 64 bit 4 GB Win 8.1 machine for these late night web surfing sessions. It stalls when background services such as Win update run.<br> If yours is a 32 bit machine upgrade to a 64 bit machine even if you are running 32 bit applications. If you have a 64 bit machine upgrade the Ram to 8 to 12 GB with Elements set to use 75% to 80% of available memory.<br> Use http://www.cpubenchmark.net/ to see how your processor stacks up to any new one you plan to get. This dual core is faster than many i3's and almost as fast as some i5 quad core processors.<br> </p>

<p>If you are converting to Jpeg then its probably 8 bit but check the file info in PSE and its easy to change to 8 bit if desired. 16 bit RGB gives you more picture info to work with and smoother tonal graduations than 8 bit. <br> How much RAM do you have? Which version of Windows?</p>

<p>Jim, I only use NX-D for converting NEF to 16bit Tiff and reading meta data, both faster than Photoshop. NX-D gives better color accuracy than PS CS5 on the base conversion. I do all editing in PS.<br> I have never used dpreview. View NX-2, also free, is similar to Canon's Zoom Browser. You may find it useful. There is also a codec for Windows that allows NEF files to be worked with as easily as Tiff and Jpeg in Windows.</p>

<p>Get Capture NX-D, https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/61 , File>Run Batch Process then select the various options such as 16 bit Tiff (recommended), 8 bit Tiff, Jpeg, source folder, destination folder,then run. Lots of features for editing also. Its Free!</p>

<p>http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_7.html only lists it as Multi-Grip in the accessory section of the Century.<br> http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_3.html lists it as Graflex XL Multi-Grip which I misread as Multi-Grip in a quick scan of the description.</p> <p>An XL Multi-Grip could be converted to a Century Multigrip but at $75 I would wait for a better buy.</p> <p>There were pistol grips that screwed into the tripod socket of 35mm camera bodies and tripod socket of long telephoto and zoom lens of the 70's and 80's that would work on a Century also. Well they are still made<br> http://www.ebay.com/itm/P-C-Pistol-Grip-Handle-for-DSLR-Cameras-NEW-Photography-and-Cinema-/151535093828?pt=US_Camera_Straps_Hand_Grips&hash=item2348320844 and appears to be a sturdy one.</p>

<p>The Doodad you're lookin' for:<br> http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-Graflex-XL-Pistol-Grip-Shutter-Release-/231310919492?pt=US_Camera_Straps_Hand_Grips&hash=item35db348744</p>

<p>Are you looking for the leather handle on the side of the camera or a grip as Dave S photo shows?</p>

<p>I have a V500 that I purchased refurbished from Epson's Clearance Center. Film scans are crisper than similar scans from a Epson 1640SU or 1650 or a Microtek 8700 all which use a white cold cathode florescent lamp. The V500, V550, and V600 all use a LED light source. Both the V550 and V600 have built in transparency adapter but the V600 software bundle includes PS Elements.<br> The V550 claims it recognizes photo borders and scans each photo to a separate file so it will do multiple photos and the feature pitch of the V600 does not state it but it most likely will. (they probably bury that detail somewhere) Go with the V550 and purchase PS Elements from Adobe if you need it as the version bundled with the V600 is probably not the latest version. <br> Epson Store http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/ProductCategory.do?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oid=-16223</p>

<p>I used http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/multi/camera-raw-plug-in-installer.html to install raw plugin 8.7.1 on my CS5.1. The installation completed without an error report. Someone want to bring their new model Nikon over and I'll test the installation.<br> Lightroom 5 should handle the D610 once all the current updates have been applied. <br> DNG only converts raw files to .dng files which should then open in Photoshop. </p>

<p>I'm with Rodeo Joe on this one, film loading sequence, resets to zero when the camera is turned off being no film cassette is in the camera.<br> Try http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Roll-Film/ci/2545/N/4093113317 , http://www.adorama.com/c/Films-and-Darkroom/Film , or http://www.freestylephoto.biz/ where you will find a better selection and pricing over Amazon.</p>

<p>1. Go to Adobe.com/downloads . Click on the Product Updates tab at the top of the page. Scroll down the page until you see other product updates then find Photoshop and select Mac or Windows. Scroll down the list until you find CS4, there will be listings for updates in different regions or languages. Download the DNG converters you do not currently have installed and install them. You may be able to install DNG converter updates for other versions of PS by doing it manually. Automatic updates will no longer be of any use as CS4 is now out of support.<br> 2. Go to Nikon.com , select you country/region, then Imaging Products, then Service and Support, then Browse Software Updates under Update Nikon Software. Now download and install Capture NX-D. It has a lot of useful features including batch processing that can batch convert NEF to 8 or 16 bit TIF or Jpeg. I copy the NEF's from the camera to a file on my computer then batch convert to 16bit TIF then edit in CS5.</p>

<p>All the films you mentioned are C41 process that are way out of date. Out of date film will have color shifts that may or may not be correctable by the processor.<br> Walmart does not return the negatives. You get prints and a CD with scans to give a 150dpi 8x10 print at the large end. OK for fresh film if all you want is snapshots.<br> Walgreens may have quit doing in house processing like CVS, Target, Costco and others. If your local Walgreens is still doing in house processing the person running the processing only loads the machine and presses the Start button then goes and does other store duties. They push their chemicals to cut operation costs so there is little chance the optimal image from those old films will be obtained.</p> <p>A C41 press kit will do better than Walmart or Walgreens. C41 press kit is a 3 step process, color developer, bleach-fix called blix, and stabilizer. The only difference between B&W and color processing is the developer should be 103°F ± 1°F and requires constant agitation and the two other steps should be within 3° of the developer. The temperature should be kept constant throughout the processing session. Temperature shifts cause color shifts. The agitation can be 1 inversion cycle per second for the 3 minute 15 second development time. Color chemicals (developer) do not last long once mixed so you will have to do all your color processing within a few weeks.</p> <p>Otherwise send them out to a pro lab as listed in Bill's post.</p>

<p>The F801s/8008s has 3 metering modes, Matrix, Center-Weighted, and Spot. The film speed range is ISO 25 to 5000 for DX and ISO 6-6400 for manually set. Exposure compensation is ±5EV.<br> Using the instruction manual http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_n8008_af.pdf as your guide set the film speed manually to the film speed you are using, set exposure compensation to 0, select center-weighted or matrix meter mode.<br> In Aperture Priority or Manual mode does the aperture readout in the viewfinder change and match the lens setting as you turn the aperture ring? If no then the aperture lever inside the body is dirty or broken.<br> In Shutter Priority or Manual does the shutter speed in the viewfinder change according to the shutter speed dial?</p> <blockquote> <p>I've checked the batteries. All new and at least 3/4 full still.</p> </blockquote> <p>New Alkaline batteries will read 1.55 to 1.6 V when new with most volt meters and should be replaced by the time they read 1.5 V on a volt meter.<br> Nikon battery check button of that era will show batteries good in a static condition and low as soon as the meter is activated or the AF or film advance motor are activated.</p>

<p>Developers in order of preference for good results and economy of use: HC110, mix concentrate direct with water just before use, has multiple dilution ratios available; Xtol, mix from powder to a stock solution then dilute 1:1; D76.</p> <p>Good films are T Max 100 & 400, HP5+, Delta 100 &400, many like FP4; Arista EDU Ultra from http://www.freestylephoto.biz/</p>

<p>Compur's tolerances are 15% for speeds 1/100 and slower, 20% for speeds 1/125 and faster, all other makes of shutters tolerances are 20%/30% at the same speed range. The 20/30 tolerance is approximately 1/3 stop.</p> <p>What Synchro-Compur shutter manual are you referring to? I have the Compur service manual that is available online, in French I believe it is, that covers most Compur, Compur Rapid and Synchro-Compur shutters of the 1950's and some of the 1960"s.</p> <p>The delay mechanism left end adjusts the 1 second speed while the right end adjusts the 1/15 or 1/25 speed depending on the shutter. If one end of the delay mechanism is too far off the other will not adjust or be at an extreme. The outside edge of the shutter case should be facing you with the delay mechanism making an arc from left to right.</p> <p>Post a picture of the shutter.</p>