thirteenthumbs

<p>A commercial lab will print your negatives at <strong>paper black</strong>, I do not know what consumer labs use.<br> To find paper black for your setup put a piece of unexposed, processed film in the negative carrier, focus its grain on the paper surface and expose the paper in 2 or 3 second steps at f8 or f11 then process the paper normally and allow it to dry. 1 to 2 inch wide strips are as wide as is needed. When dry examine it in bright light and identify the strip where the paper becomes black and it cannot be distinguished from the rest of the time strips. This is paper black for this film/paper in your setup. If you change any one thing run the test again. Most films will be within a second or two on the same paper but a different paper may be significantly different.<br> Now print one of your negatives at paper black time/aperture, it should render a good but not perfect print. Paper black is where deep shadows with no detail should be in the final print.<br> Printing a contact sheet at paper black will tell you if you are exposing and developing properly also.</p>

<p>Norland Optical Adhesives, http://www.edmundoptics.com/lab-production/adhesives/norland-optical-adhesives/1597 , UV to cure, warm soapy water or acetone to debond components.<br> Maybe getting the lens damp is the source of the fog.</p>

<p>I'm working off general lens knowledge, your research on this brand is most likely more accurate but...<br> Several years ago I purchased a Goertz Dagor that was cloudy. While it was difficult to focus exposures were OK.<br> I decided to recement it. After heating it in a 250°F oven for 30 minutes at a time and putting the cloudy element in boiling water 3 or 4 times each I put it back together and put it away as the elements would not separate. I took it out a few months later and it was crystal clear. Go figure.</p> <p>Direct heat can cause damage. Indirect heating such as putting the lens in a heated oven and turned off, lowering into a 2 quart pan of boiling water removed from the heat source or similar heating technique may separate the cells for recementing or repair the balsam.</p> <p>If you have the option of returning it and do not wish to experiment return it. If you recement it the alignment of the cells is critical. Put a single line on one side and a double line on the opposite side that won't rub off.</p>

<p>Sounds like the shutter has died. If Mamiya built the RZ like they did the RB then the camera body will have to be opened, the cocking drive gearing disengaged (gear(s) loosened from their shaft, cocking shaft removed or similar mechanical operation to include mechanically disconnecting a drive motor) the lens removed then the body reset to normal.</p>

<p>Unscrew the rear element from the shutter/barrel and clean the internal surfaces then reassemble.<br> Your picture looks like lubrication/paint/plastics used in the lens housing gassing out and collecting on the internal surface(s). </p>

<p>What is the watt rating of the enlarger lamp?<br> Put a piece of clear, processed film in the enlarger. Do a 2 second time step @f8 in 1 to 2 inch wide strips across the length of a sheet of paper. Process the paper for 3 minutes in the Dektol, fix, wash and allow to dry.<br> When the test is dry look at it under bright light and identify the strip/time where the paper reaches its maximum black. It will be easy to tell as strips after this point will not be distinguishable from one another. <br> What is the exposure time to reach paper black?</p>

<p>Load a scrap roll of film on each reel, put them in the tank, fill the tank with water to the top edge of the tank, pour the water into a graduate. This is the minimum amount of chemical to use. If you are developing 1 roll of film in a 2 reel tank put the reel with the film in the bottom and an empty reel on top.</p> <p>Throw the squeegee away and invest in a bottle of PhotoFlo (Kodak) or similar wetting agent. At the end of the final rinse add 1ml (cc) to 2ml to the water, gently agitate for 2 or 3 seconds to mix, and let it sit for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Pour the water out, shake all the excess water of the reel with the film then hang to dry. The wetting agent will cause the water to run off the film without streaks. The amount of wetting agent necessary depends on your water. </p> <p>An Eyedropper from a drug store works well for measuring the PhotoFlo.</p>

<p>CS5 scan plugins only work in the 32 bit version. Silverfast SE is no better than/not as good as Epson Scan/Twain.<br> Silverfast AI is worth the effort.<br> Have you checked the version to make sure it is compatible with your OS?</p> <p>If the previous owner has it registered in their name you will need their registration information to switch it to you then check for updates. </p>

<p>Two, no make that three possibilities, mineral deposits from using hard/tap water, undissolved chemicals from powdered chemicals that were not fully dissolved/mixed, or residual silver from previous session redeposited onto the film during fixing.<br> Solutions: use a filter on your tap water or use distilled water; use a plastic or acrylic rod to stir the chemical powders during mixing, allow the undissolved particles to settle to the bottom of the mixing container then crush them with the rod and stir until they go into solution; pour the fixer through a coffee filter before pouring it into the tank with the freshly developed film. I pour the fixer from the processed film tank through a coffee filter in a funnel as it goes back into the storage bottle then I pour the fixer through a coffee filter in a funnel from the storage bottle to an intermediate container just before adding it to the processing tank. I am not noticing sludge build up in the storage bottle as I was before no filtering/1 filtering before the processing tank.<br> <strong>Wash all equipment used in processing immediately after hanging the film to dry in warm mild soapy water then rinse well. </strong> Towel or air dry. Do not use anything used in film processing for any other purpose.</p>

<p>Kodak Tech Pub 4017, http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf , Kodak Professional TriX Films shows 13 1/4 minutes @ 68°F for TriX 400 pushed to 1600. At 12 minutes it would be under developed but some image should be visible.</p> <p>Fresh mixed powder chemicals, especially developer, should sit at least 12 hours before first use and 24 hours is best. This allows the chemical actions to complete and the final solution to stabilize.</p> <p>Hold the "blank film" under a strong light source such as direct sunlight and turn the film to different angles to the light. Any hint of a weak/ghost image says the developer was not working properly.</p>

<p>Pushing or pulling usually is ± 25% of the base time. <br> A ± 5% of base time in development is just noticeable in standard enlarger printing.<br> You process a roll of film shot normally at the base time stated by the film manufacturer. If the shadows are weak ( little or no detail ) you increase exposure by 1/3 to 1/2 stop. If the highlights are muddy ( white looks light gray ) you increase development by 10%. If the highlights look burned out ( whites have little or no detail) you decrease development by 5% to 10%.</p> <p>Film speed, development time/temperature are set under lab conditions which use very tight tolerances. General production camera gear and thermometers use a lesser tolerance. Shutters are considered good up to 1/3 stop off either side of the marked speed. A thermometer may be off .5°F. A light meter may be off 1/3 stop or less. All these minor errors add up and affect the final results. Whether you need to adjust your exposure or development time depends on you and your taste or precision requirements. Box film speed for film, metered exposures, and manufacturers published development time/temperature will produce good usable results for any combination of equipment that is operating within manufacturers tolerance.</p> <p>Use the manufactures published time for your film and developer. I assume your film is Professional T Max 100 so develop it in fresh, unused D76 full strength for 6 1/2 minutes at 68°F.<br> See <strong>Development Times</strong> on page 2 of tech pub j78 linked in my previous post.</p>

<p>The confusion comes from 2 versions of T Max films. T Max Professional , tech pub f32 http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f32/f32.pdf , start point is 9 minutes @ 68°F in small tanks, Professional T Max, tech pub f4016 http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4016/f4016.pdf , is 6 1/2 minute starting point time in small tanks @ 68°F. Then there is the D76 tech pub, j78 http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf , that list the same times as the films tech pub.</p> <p>Use the time/temperature for the film you have and the tank type then experiment in 5% to 10% time differences from the published starting point to find the optimal time for your equipment.</p>

<p>Norton or Kaspersky are at the top of my list for paid security suites and I would use one or the other if I was more active in using this computer for a business. I have used both in the past and trusted them.</p>

<p>Firefox has tabbed browsing by default. There are several buttons that you can add via the customize option. I show the zoom arrows as well as the size in terms of %. There are a lot of add-ons that you can easily get from their add on page.</p> <p>Windows builds up registry entries for everything on the computer. When you delete something the registry entry stays but gets flagged to ignore. After a while this builds up causing the computer to run slower.<br> A lot of the cookies you get from web sites are tracking cookies from the advertisements running on the web pages, some of which are considered malware.<br> Windows has a utility called Disk Cleanup, found under Administrative Tools in Control Panel. It can be used to remove the left over temporary files left behind by programs and installers as well as other computer slowing software.</p> <p>Advanced System Care has a feature that you have to set that prevents your home page from being changed unless you allow it called home page protection. This computer came with McAfee security suite for free for 1 year. At about 10 months in with home page protection set a second tab would open to a site which varied from Russian Girls to similar Russian sites. I notified ASC via their email support at iobit.com and called McAfee. The representative at McAfee said they were only concerned with infections once they occurred and were not interested in suspicious behavior. Iobit took it seriously and updated their software. I found a tracking cookie that kept installing itself on subsequent web browsing sessions after being deleted to be the source for the second tab. After the initial report the cookie stopped for a week or so then started again but this time the second tab would flicker a few times before becoming a solid tab. Another report to iobit and it stopped.<br> After the call to McAfee I uninstalled all their software and installed Comodo security suite. I reported the second home page tab along with the cookie to them as well as to Firefox. Although I never got a responce from Mozilla or Comodo the tracking cookie stopped so someone shut it down or found a solid way to block it.</p> <p>When I bought the second Win8.1 computer I uninstalled McAfee even though it had a free 1 year service and went straight to Comodo http://download.cnet.com/Comodo-Internet-Security-Premium/3000-2239_4-10460704.html .</p> <p> </p>

<p>I have 2 Win8.1 machines and use Firefox on both.<br /> https://www.mozilla.org/<br /> I have not liked IE since I switched to Win 8/8.1'</p> <p>I use Advanced System Care http://www.iobit.com/advancedsystemcareper.php . It is an excellent, easy to use program that I have been using since Win XP.</p> <p>In IE Internet Options general tabs select Delete Browsing History on exit check box then click on Delete... and select the items that you want deleted when closing the browser. Deleting cookies will cause you to have to log in each time you open the browser to your home page and will cause you to go through security procedures from your bank's web site to log in each time, a big hassle.</p>

<p>I would like item #6 the 4 rolls of TriX 120. I'm good for the shipping cost.<br> I left my address in a private message.<br> Thanks,<br> Charles</p>

<p>Correct, each focus scale is for a specific focal length lens. That focus scale can be anywhere on the bed there is room for it. The focus scales have slots for the attaching screws so the long scale can be shifted a millimeter or two. The short scale has a nut plate that fits into the rails so it can be positioned as needed to align with the long/bed scale. All focus settings are with reference to infinity as viewed on the ground glass using a target at least 5000 feet away.</p> <p>1 inch=25.4 millimeters=2.54 centimeters=.0254 meters; 10 inch=254 millimeters.</p> <p>The <em><strong>Back</strong> <strong>Focus</strong></em>of any lens is the distance from the center of its rear element to the film plane. Back focus is sometimes used to refer to the focused distance at infinity which is the distance from the aperture blades to the film plane which is not always equal to the lens focal length.</p> <p>I have not used focus scales enough to remember the close focus distance on these cameras but I think the front scale is for the 90mm-100mm lens as they will focus to 3 feet from infinity in the travel of the rails, a 135mm will focus to approximately 6 feet from infinity in the rail travel, the 254 Telephoto will focus to roughly 15 feet from infinity and a 250 standard lens will focus to 25 feet from infinity.</p>

<p>Focus scales are optional and have nothing to do with infinity stops. The focus scale can be mounted anywhere on the bed that there is room.</p> <p>A Optar lens is a Wollensak Raptar lens rebadged. 170mm is the back focus of a Optar/Raptar 10 inch telephoto.<br> http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/wollensak_5.html</p>

<p>The transparency adapter has its own lamp and possibly a stepping motor. The lamp is bad, the drive belt bad, the motor bad, or the electrical connection to the scanner base is bad.<br> Check the electrical connection first. If it appears good unplug it and turn the scanner off. With the scanner off plug in the transparency adapter then power the scanner on. If this does not correct the problem then the transparency adapter needs servicing.</p>

<p>1. Factory spec for setting infinity is to run the rails all the way back then forward .040 ± .010 inch. Run the rails in until the bed indicator infinity pointer aligns with the focus scale infinity indicator then check the stop distances as Brian suggest. I'll speculate the rear set is for a 90mm to 100mm lens; the center set a 127mm or 135mm; the front set a 250mm.<br> 2. I agree with Brian.<br> 3. A search of this site for AA battery corrosion cleaning results consensus is use Vinegar to wash all affected areas. Metal parts should be treated with a light coat of oil to prevent them from rusting.<br> Visit http://www.graflex.org/ .<br> Visit http://www.southbristolviews.com/ then click on Graflex Manuals link. There is a list of focus scales focal lengths. The focus scales were made in matched sets, a long bed scale whose number you use for the list and a short rail indicator. There is no known list for the short scales.</p> <p>Lens actual focal length is rarely the marked focal length but is with a few percentage of the marked depending on the production tolerances in use at the time of manufacture. There were 5 rangefinder cams made for the 135 Optar by the factory. Once you have established lens and rangefinder infinity match then check a close distance of 6 to 10 feet. Mismatched lens/cam will result in one or the other being out of agreement depending on which you focus with. A correct set will have the rangefinder and ground glass image in focus at the same point and the focus scale indication matching the subject distance from the film plane.<br> An instruction manual for your late 1957 / early 1958 camera: http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_4.html</p>

<p>http://plustek.com/uk/products/opticfilm-series/<br> I have an older version the 7200 SE. It does as well as many older scanners claimed to be great if you can find them. The 8100 and 8200 will give the highly praised Nikons a run for the money and it will take a very critical eye to see the difference. The major drawback is that the Plusteks are manual feed only.</p>

<p>About 18 months ago I picked up a 4800Pro on craigslist for free + fuel to go get it, 25 mile round trip.<br> I bought a black ink change kit off ebay and a couple of ink cartridges that were out of date but full.<br> I drained the ink out of the existing cartridges, filled them with head cleaning solution from inksupply.com, and ran cleaning cycles and power cleaning cycles until 2 pints of head cleaner had been used up.<br> I refiled the ink back into the cartridges and tried a few nozzle checks. All appeared good for a few 8x10 prints then nozzles appeared clogged again and would not clear.</p> <p>Doing some online research, possibly yahoo groups, I found a post stating that missing segments in a nozzle check may be due to air pockets in the ink lines caused by weak ink/vacuum pump. When I checked the printer ink lines the bad heads had air gaps in them.</p> <p>1. fold a paper towel to fit the head path of the printer then saturate it with Isopropyl Alcohol.<br> 2. with the power turned off lay the towel in the head track, release the head and slide it over the towel.<br> 3. close the cover and let it sit for a few hours to overnight. wear rubber cleaning gloves when handling the ink saturated towel to prevent staining your fingers.<br> 4. repeat until the towel comes out fairly clean. some ink from the heads may be siphoned onto the towel but the dried buildup on the bottom should be removed.<br />5. run the cleaning cycle and check for air gaps in the ink lines.</p> <p>Mine is still sitting waiting for me to get around to seeing if I can fix the pump(s).</p>

<p>It sounds to me that the Mac built in burning software is as lame as the one in Windows 8/8.1.<br> An easier workaround:<br> Go to www.download.cnet.com<br> click on the search symbol in the search download box in the top right and select Mac software if it does not come up as the default for you<br> put dvd burner in the search box then click on the search button or hit enter<br> you should get 6 results for free, 20 for free to try.<br> The first two in the free look to be adequate for basic burning of your images without hassles.</p> <p>I had similar problems with Win 8.1 on a Dell XPS and found a suite that fit all my burning needs without the Windows hassles and can't read disk problems.</p>

<p>When loading cassettes I just cut the film at a 90° at the bulk loader then cut the film leader coming out of the cassette in the center, back about 2 inches then right 45° to the edge.</p>

<p>1. look at the shinny side of the dvd. remove any finger prints or similar contaminates by wiping with a clean, soft cloth across the groves not with them. scratches may be preventing them from being read.<br> 2. take the dvd's back to the lab/person that created them and see if they will load on their system.</p> <p>firmware updates to dvd drives have caused read/write problems. <br />did you do a firmware update on the dvd drive?</p>