thirteenthumbs

<p>I switched my Dell XPS from Dell's win8 bundled mess to a straight Win8.1installation. You can get the ISO file from windows knowledge base and create either a DVD or thumb drive installation. Win8.1 will assign all disk space of any hard drive active in the machine as "C". The way around this is to disconnect all but the drive you want to be the "C" drive, install windows, then reconnect the other drives then label and partition them as you wish in disk manager or via a third party utility.</p>

<p>1. any non 35mm slr camera that uses a ground glass or focusing screen the ground side goes toward the lens.<br> 2. a fresnel always goes the ribbed side toward the ground glass. if the camera was designed to have the fresnel between the ground glass and lens then it must be there or the ground glass shimmed to account for the optical distance the fresnel was providing which may not be the physical dimensions of the fresnel.<br> 3. taking things 1 step further. Film Holder specifications state that the surface of the sheet of film should be .197 ± .007 inch below the edge of the film holder. Sheet film varies between .005 to .007 inch. place a piece of scrap film in the film holder then measure from the edge of the film holder to the surface of the film in several places. The measurements should be the same. I usually just check the base of the holder without film as TriX is .007 inch thick and is the thickest film in the industry.</p> <p>Now with a known good film holder inserted into the back and the darkslide removed lay a straight edge across the back making sure the straight edge is not laying on a bump or ridge that is higher on one side and measure from the straight edge to the film holder base or use a sheet of film in the holder and measure to the surface of the film at several places. all measurements should be the same. now remove the film holder and repeat the measurements to the groundglass at the same places, they should be the same as the base of the film holder or surface of the film whichever you used. I divide the film holder and ground glass into thirds both horizontally and vertically and measure at the center of the 9 resulting spaces. The film holder to ground glass position measurements can be a simple strip of wood securely attached to the straight edge making the check easy and quick. Add or remove shims as necessary to get the gg to match the film holder.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I removed 6" of film and fixed it in TF-4 but did not see any markings on the edges that would identify the film.</p> </blockquote> <p>Fixer removes silver salts that have not been converted to silver solids by developer. Take another strip of film and develop it in any standard strength developer for 6 minutes at 68°F then fix. This will give you the edge markings.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Does the Plustek scanner actually scan</p> </blockquote> <p><strong>Yes.</strong><br> <strong><br /></strong>Manual feed is the only drawback, good quality build, they will equal or exceed the Minolta in every aspect.</p>

<p>Each brand of fixer has a capacity listed on the label.<br> Sodium Thiosulfate fixers - 5 minutes when fresh to 10 minutes once 50% or more of its capacity has been reached. Capacity is around 100 8x10's or equivalent per gallon.<br> Ammonium Thiosulfate fixers also called rapid fixers- 3 to 5 minutes fix time. Check the concentrate package for the capacity.<br> 1 8x10=80 square inches = 1 roll 120 = 1-36 exposure 135 film.<br> Using a stop bath or water rinse between developer and fix steps will extend the life of the fixer. There are or were test solutions for Sodium Thiosulfate (Hypo) fixers. I always filter the fixer (coffee filter in a funnel) after use to reduce the dissolved silver content in the fixer which will collect to the container and or redeposit itself onto the next films processed in it.</p> <p>What type/brand fixer are you using?</p> <p>Some camera store clerks are well versed in wifes tales to newcomers, cuts down on the pro market place competition.</p>

<p>The purpose of a prewash with Jobo tanks is for even wetting and developing as streaks will be likely without it.<br> I use Jobo 2500 series tanks for 4x5 and occasionally 120 with a manual roller base. It too requires 270ml of chemicals but I found that minor errors that were occurring with 270ml chemicals were corrected by using 300ml of chemicals.</p> <p>How fresh is your fixer? Reused? Near exhaustion? Do a snip test with a small piece of the unexposed film and time from immersion until it turns clear then double this time for proper fixing.</p> <p>Gray sounds like under exposed or under developed but dense suggest insufficient fixing. I would refix for 5 to 10 minutes then wash and dry as usual then evaluate the negatives.</p> <p>Is the density even top to bottom of the frame along the length of the roll? You may have to measure the density to determine this. With 270ml chemicals a 1° tilt in the tank during processing can result in one side of the strip of film being under developed compared to the other or the section closer to the center of the tank noticeably different. Was the problem roll at the top of the tank or the bottom of the tank?</p> <p>I am not familiar with Hasselblad cameras but I would check the extension tube to lens mounting and verify that the aperture operates properly then attach the combo to the camera and check operation. Meter a gray card with and without the extension tube and compare the results.</p>

<p>1. what was the total volume of A. developer, B. fixer used?<br> 1a. what is the total volume required for the amount of film you processed listed on the tank?<br> 2. were both rolls exposed close to the same time?<br> 3. were both rolls exposed in the same camera.<br> 4. if yes to question 3 was the same lens/shutter used to expose both?</p>

<p>Adobe Bridge</p>

<p>I was running Comodo internet security suite, free version, for years and contracted two viruses recently that it did not detect nor did Advanced System Care Malware Fighter free version. I switched to Norton as it was on sale just before the first of the year and can be installed on 5 devices. I still use Malware Fighter as it is combined with Advanced System Care which does a very good job of keeping the registry clean and defragmented, junk files cleared, and similar tasks. ASC is available in both free and paid versions at http://www.iobit.com/iobit2015.php , worth having.<br> Windows 8.1 on 2 computers, Firefox with bluhell firewall, ASC, Norton.</p> <p>Kaspersky is another very good security suite. </p> <p>I dumped McAfee on this machine before the free, bundled installation ended and never used it on the other machine. I contacted McAfee about some abnormalities with browsing and their rep said if I had an infection they would help me recover them otherwise they were not interested.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Are some of these lenses the same as Leica screw mounts?</p> </blockquote> <p>only those listed under the Metric mount/European made lens and shutters will be possible. Leica is M39 probably .75.<br> Have you started your photography resource bookmarks yet? Grimes use to have twice as many shutter mount rings/flanges listed a few years ago.</p>

<p>The 1950 Wollensak Price list referenced in your previous post about the lens says it is in a #1 Alphax. One usually has to measure and do research to find the shutter size number. <br />Now we go to http://www.skgrimes.com/ and navigate to the mount ring table under the products tab. Here is where knowledge of vintage equipment is valuable. I've spent many an hour doing research to acquire mine. Grimes does not list the Alphax #1 but does list a #0 whose mount ring is 1.180 x 40tpi. approximately the size you need. Wollensak made Betax, Alphax, and Rapax shutters and some sizes of Betax and Alphax are the same mount size. Once you have a correct measurement of the thread peak diameter then measure the length of the threaded section then count the number of peaks in that distance. A 40 thread per inch mount will have 10 peaks in .25 inch or .025 inch per thread, threaded length divided by number of peaks. Be sure to measure the threaded section only and do not include the unthreaded section between the shutter base and the start of the threaded section. http://www.skgrimes.com/library/faq/how-to-measure-threads </p> <p>A spacer can be made to fit the difference between the mount sizes to take up the excess space or make/purchase a new lens board drilled to the correct size.</p>

<p>Lens come in barrel (aperture blades only) and shutters. The lens themselves are in many focal lengths. In the early days to sometime in the 1950's or early 1960's each manufacture had their own size of shutter numbering them 00,0,1,2,3,4 or 5. Sometime in the 1950's or early 1960's the shutter sizes were standardized, before that each manufacture determined what their shutter number size was. The shutter or barrel size has no relevance to the focal length of the lens. The lens speed does have relevance to the shutter or barrel size as f stop is the focal length divided by the entrance pupil diameter (aperture opening) as viewed through the front of the lens. <br> As long as the lens is designed to cover the format then the shutter or barrel size is irreverent.<br> What camera are you mounting it on? Measure the outside diameter of the shutter mount threads to find the mount hole size needed. Some mount flanges and mount rings have a lip on the inner edge so measure the outside diameter of the lip if it exists to get the mount hole size.</p>

<p>This PC World article tells how to remove Superfish: http://www.pcworld.com/article/2886278/how-to-remove-the-dangerous-superfish-adware-presintalled-on-lenovo-pcs.html#tk.rss_all<br> This <br /><br />PC World article tell that other apps may have the same vulnerability as Superfish: http://www.pcworld.com/article/2887253/superfish-vulnerability-traced-to-other-apps-too.html#tk.rss_all</p>

<p>I have an Epson XP610 AIO, a V500, and a couple of older Epsons.<br> The Epson 1640SU and 1650 photo do a better job than the XP610 which is less than 18 months old.<br> The V500 beats them all.<br> The V37 in a low end consumer scanner. Sounds like your 8 yr old HP is a higher end unit than the others.</p>

<p>The catalogs are on the info tab from the home page which does not show up in catalog/camera/lens searches. </p>

<p>The Graflex Corp. line of Graphic cameras are very rugged. They were designed as Press cameras and are used as field cameras as they can be used handheld or on supports. The Super Graphic was produced from 1958 until 1973 then the rights were sold to Toyo and they made the camera for a few years.</p> <p>But as with any camera that is at least 40+ years old it will need servicing before use.</p>

<p>Its a late version of the Extreme Wide Angle that was produced from around 1922 for 30 or 40 years. Should be a good performer. It has a 90° angle of view wide open, 100° stopped down. It is listed in a #1 Alphax shutter in both non sync and synch versions in the 1950 price list and in Betax shutters before that. The f9.5 version shows up in the 1919 catalog, and the f12.5 version in 1922 catalog stating the New Series IIIa.... See the Wollensak catalogs at http://www.cameraeccentric.com/info.html</p>

<p>Do you really need all the accessories? The film holders and grafmatic are good to get accessories. The film pack adapter is a decoration. The presslok tripod mount is not that big of a deal, some lock well into some camera bodies and others do not hold well allowing the camera to fall if gently bumped. Mine holds fair but you must be extra careful when tripping the shutter to prevent inducing camera shake.<br> The two things that concern me are the battery door will not stay in place without batteries installed. The camera uses 2 Eveready #412 22.5V batteries which are getting hard to find and alkaline replacement types are $30 each. The battery compartment is part of the rangefinder housing and if the batteries that are currently in the camera have leaked they may have damaged the rangefinder. <br> The lens is not original to the camera as a factory original would have a lens board with an electronic release lever that will trip the lever when the electronic release is pressed with good batteries. Being the lens is not original to the camera there is likely no cam in the rangefinder which is required for the rangefinder to operate. The cam must be matched to the lens for correct focusing.</p> <p>As it is with a lot of accessories I would place it at $600 to $650 unless it can be verified that the batteries have not leaked. The electronics fail and run down batteries quickly in a majority of the bodies. The electronics only operate the electronic shutter release so they are not that important to the camera.</p> <p>I wrote an article on how to calibrate the rangefinder and one on how to make a cam from scratch both posted on graflex.org helpboard. There is also a thread on correcting frame spacing errors on graphic roll film holders that I started as many of the Graphic 22 and Graphic 23 holders have spacing problems due to wear and modern film being thinner than film was when the holders were made.</p>

<p>Do you reuse the fixer?<br> Do you filter the reused fixer before the next use?<br> Ilford archival wash:<br> Fill the developing tank with water, give it 5 continuous inversions, dump<br> Fill the developing tank with water and give it 10 continuous inversions then dump<br> Fill the tank with water and give it 15 continuous inversions then dump<br> Use wetting agent or squeegee and dry.</p>

<p>Start here http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/t.pl Don's Bulbs. Next click on the link labeled Library. Now click on Sylvania technical manual photolamp division then click on page 20 fp26 chart. From the chart we see that the bulb reaches 2/3 of its peak output in 11ms. Standard is 17 to 20 ms. It should still work on M setting due to its long burn time. Being it is a Focal Plane class bulb it maintains its peak light output for 23ms long enough for 1/30 second with a focal plane shutter.<br> There is a table of guide numbers for synchroflash at 1/200 in this article http://www.graflex.org/flash/navy/<br> Other flash bulb numbers technical information can be found here http://www.graflex.org/flash/technical.html</p>

<p>Very doubtful you will ever find an instruction manual.<br> Google search: Kodak No. 4 Cartridge= https://www.google.com/search?q=Kodak+No.+4+Cartridge+&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 <br> (highlight from https to the end then copy/paste into a new browser window or tab)<br> on page 2 a Buktus link for Kodak manuals has the best description under the Bicycle Cameras catalog:<br> http://www.cameramanuals.org/kodak_pdf/kodak_bicycle.pdf<br> Another site's 1899 Kodak Catalog pages 23-25 : http://piercevaubel.com/cam/catalogs/1899obriglp663.htm<br> The front standard operates like most large format cameras, you turn the focus knob until the distance indicator points to the distance the subject is from the film plane, set the shutter speed if possible and aperture, frame the subject or compose the scene with one of the finder windows and trip the shutter. There is a plate back allowing the use of glass plates in place of the cartridge film.</p>

<p>When I start getting interruptions as you describe in your first post I open Network and Sharing Center and disable the lan connection until I'm finished then reactivate it. This stops background processes from doing on line checks and updates which hang up the program I'm running. It happens infrequently.</p>

<p>Dell XPS 8500 upgraded to Win 8.1 64 bit, i7-3770 3.4GHz , 16GB ram, 1gb 7200rpm hd, CS5.1<br> Saved the file to my HD, opened CS5, from clicking on the Open button after selecting the file until it was loaded ready for editing 3 seconds, from clicking on the liquify filter until it was fully loaded 7 seconds all while logged in to this post.</p>

<p>Apply a small amount of Acetone (nail polish remover) around the edge of the threads and wait 5+ minutes and try again.<br> Use a lens spanner to fit the ring.<br> Hold the lens barrel in a lens vise or a strap wrench.</p>

<p>Did you loose the spring that is usually under the steel ball also?<br> Take a digital caliper and measure the diameter of the hole the bearing sits in then go to local hardware stores and see if they have anything close. Many hardware stores have bins with bearing balls, springs and similar parts.<br> If hardware stores don't have it try hobby shops or model railroad shops.</p> <p>Search the floor around the work area with a magnet on an extension rod.</p>