thirteenthumbs

<p>I downloaded a fresh copy and installed on a Win8.1 machine, it loads and runs correctly.<br> I suggest you download a fresh copy, uninstall the current one, clean your registry with a good registry cleaner such as Advanced System Care http://www.iobit.com/iobit2015.php or CCleaner http://download.cnet.com/CCleaner/ then turn your antivirus off and install. If it corrupts again repeat the uninstall, registry clean, turn off Windows security features, antivirus, and firewall then reinstall. Turn all security features on after a successful install.<br> I have found some background processes updating or running their checks causing the failed installations or downloads, Windows Update being the Worst.</p>

<p>I cannot read a pertinent thing from your screen shot.<br> The transparency unit is built into the lid. It has a cover that slips into slots that provides a white background for documents which must be removed for transparency scanning. The transparency unit is the 3rd plug on the back of the scanner.<br> <strong>Go to Epson's web site, download the newest software for your scanner and operating system. </strong>Uninstall the current scanner software, run a registry cleaning program such as Advanced System Care free from http://www.iobit.com/ or Ccleaner free from http://download.cnet.com/CCleaner/ both are very good and will not harm your system.<br> Install the new software.<br> Your Epson scan box should look similar to the attached screen shot. The document type box must say film or transparency depending on the version of your software.</p> <p>As a last resort download and install Vuescan, http://www.hamrick.com/ , and run in trial mode just to see if the scanner will work in transparency mode.</p><div></div>

<p>Have you checked that the transparency unit is connected at the rear of the scanner?<br> Try unplugging it then plugging it back in with the scanner power off.<br> Does the transparency light come on?<br> Is the document cover removed from the lid? </p>

<p>Technicians that use Lighter Fluid are satisfied if it just works IMO. Lighter fluid leaves a light oily residue behind, those that say it doesn't are not able to detect it. My main reason for not using it is the Naphtha is toxic and may damage plastic used in some shutters and will damage rubber. Its probably fine for shutters made before the 1930's except for the ones that use paper aperture blades and paper seals. There are several other chemicals used in the paint and varnish industry that are excellent degreasers but they have a lower flash point than Naphtha, will strip bluing off shutter and aperture blades as well as damage other materials previously mentioned.</p> <p>Isopropyl Alcohol can be used to clean the shutter but it works much slower. I use CRC Quick Dry Electrical cleaner as its the best. There are some contact cleaners that aren't very good such as http://www.lowes.com/pd_172753-12704-40-610_0__?Ntt=electrical+contact+cleaner&UserSearch=electrical+contact+cleaner&productId=3127949&rpp=32. The CRC can be found at hardware and Auto Parts stores. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CRC9/05103/N0439.oap?ck=Search_N0439_-1_-1&pt=N0439&ppt=C0090</p> <p>Watch oil will be fine for shutters. I use TriFlow with Teflon. Any light weight grease including teflon bike grease where grease is called for is fine, manufacture's grease is either a spec number or in house type and not readily available. Only trace amounts of oil and grease are called for. If you can just see a light sheen of oil then you have the correct amount, a dab of grease about the size of a straight pin head spread out over the movement area is good. I soak a round wooden tooth pick with oil and then wipe the inside of gears and bushings and put a drop about the size of a straight pin point on shafts. I also put a trace of grease on spring ends where they move against the case or other levers even if not called for. Too much grease or oil inhibits the movement of the shutter. Shutter blades and aperture blades must remain dry. A very light coat of Dry lubricants such as extra fine powdered graphite or teflon are acceptable.</p> <p>Take pictures as you disassemble to aid in reassembly.</p>

<p>Yes, you should clean them.<br> The Graphic View II was introduced in 1949 therefore the bellows outer covering is Naugahyde. With the bellows fully extended, lens board and back removed, support the bellows from inside while wiping down the exterior. You can use Windex or 90% Isopropyl Alcohol to remove the dirt and grime on the exterior and a soft cloth. Once clean coat the bellows with Lemon Pledge (yellow can only not the wipes) and let it set a few minutes then rub in and wipe off the excess. Of course you can use cleaners/conditioners specifically made for naugahyde if you wish.<br> Once the exterior is cleaned and treated spray the interior with Lysol Disinfectant Spray. Don't be afraid to saturate the inside. Close with the back and blank lens board or place in a large plastic bag and leave for a day or two. Repeat the Lysol treatment if needed to remove the mildew smell. Brush any white powder from the inside with a nylon bristle brush such as an old tooth brush.<br> http://www.graflex.org/</p>

<p>Speeds from 1 second to 100 second are controlled by the delay gear train, speeds above 1/100 are controlled by the booster spring.<br> The Synchro Compur is a difficult shutter to learn on. The delay is controlled by a coil torsion spring like a watch/clock. Removing the delay mechanism will likely release the spring requiring its initial tension to be reset to get the speeds correct.<br> The 203 Ektar is not listed in the service manual referenced in the link above but a base shutter was adapted to many lens and applications. It may be a composite of two shutters in the manual, one for the top side of the main plate and up, and one for the lower portion of the shutter. CN-1307-000 is a possibility.</p> <p>See http://www.photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/0044cW especially the last few posts.</p>

<p>Process at 65°F/18°C to reduce fog, preferably HC-110 dilution B or H, and add 1/2 to 1 stop exposure. I've salvaged some twice as bad using HC110 @65°F +2 stops and 50% increase in development time.<br> It has a long way to go before time for the recycle bin.</p>

<p><strong>Do Not Disassemble.</strong> There's a lot more to it than meets the eye.<br> The instruction manual, http://www.butkus.org/chinon/yashica/yashica_a/yashica_a.pdf on page 6 shows a cable release that is attached by unscrewing the ring around the shutter release and attaching it there so, Is the shutter release fully extended? Unscrew the trim ring 1 to 2 turns and see if it makes any difference. Operate the shutter release a few times. Turn the speed dial to each speed from the slowest to the fastest trying the setting/cocking lever and release on each speed.<br> I speculate it has sat for years and the lubrication in the shutter has dried out causing the shutter to stick or the shutter speed dial was turned with the shutter cocked causing the components to go out of sync and it might go back to operating if your lucky working with the speed ring otherwise send it out for servicing or use it for a decoration.</p>

<p>The Maximum scan resolution is the Manufacturers stated Optical Resolution for the scanner. Higher resolution is software interpolation. </p>

<p>Does the lens go on and off the camera normally? Yes- leave as is and don't worry about it. No-have the mount ring straightened or replaced.</p> <p>A test: Tape or pin some news print with fine printing such as classified ads flat against a flat wall. Set the camera with questionable lens up on a tripod 2 or 3 meters away making sure the camera is parallel and square to the wall. Photograph the news print with the lens wide open at both extremes of its zoom range with the camera set to Raw/Nef mode. Inspect the images at 100% on your computer for any variance in sharpness top to bottom/left to right. </p> <p>I had a Nikon FA on a tripod tip over on a slight incline and hit concrete from about mid chest height. The tilt handle and top of the pentaprism hit the sidewalk. The mount ring on the camera bent out about 1/8 inch at the bottom between the mount screws making the lens very difficult to remove. I replaced the mount ring on the camera and all was good. You would not know it happened if not for the minor scratch on the pentaprism.</p>

<p>Woutner, others,<br> I'm not looking to get into another urination contest over manufacturer stated-third party resolution test. The Proscan/Primefilm is definitely a major improvement over earlier models of theirs. I saw one major magazine review that said the Plustek had a higher resolution than the Primefilm. <br> <br />There are several different levels of precision and overall quality of test slides available, http://www.edmundoptics.com/testing-targets/test-targets the 1951 target appears to have been updated to 1963A as there use to be as many listing for the USAF1951 target as there are for the 1963A, and the quality will affect test results but not significantly. Production of both scanners and test targets have tolerances so if you have the low end of the tolerance range of brand X and the high end of the tolerance range of both on brand Y brand y will probably win the comparison. 200 to 300 dpi or ppi will not be significant enough to notice in the final scan unless enlarged significantly.</p> <p>What does concern me is that the Primefilm does not list the Dmax for their scanners. Plustek 8100 lists a Dmax of 3.6, my older 7200 is 3.3. The higher the Dmax the better the separation between tones.</p> <p>Is the Dmax of your scanner stated in the manual that came with it? </p> <p>I take manufacturers specs with a small grain of salt and reviews with a larger grain of salt. They both only give me an idea of what to expect, not what I'll actually get.</p>

<p>If I had an Epson V7xx I would not switch either. The only other scanner I would put up against the F2 for consideration is the Epson V8xx .</p>

<p>Will a Pacific Image scanner produce a scan capable of being printed to a 16x20 Gallery Quality?<br> I know that Plustek scanners can as I have a 7200 and some negatives that will print to gallery standards without manipulation. Nikon scanners have a reputation of being a little better than the Plustek and Minolta are reported equal to slightly better. Then there are drum scanners which are another class that's a cut above.</p>

<p>If the M2 was readily available here in the US and I had the funds available I would buy one in an instant. </p>

<blockquote> <p>Charles - if it is a manufacturing defect, what do you suppose the chances are of getting any kind of reimbursement on it, given that Kodak don't even make that size anymore?</p> </blockquote> <p>NO. If it was a recent purchase then the retailer you purchased it from would probably make good on it. </p> <p>Beware that Freestyle has a $25 minimum for orders.</p>

<p>No rain for 35 days, spare the air for 20 of 27 days (both records), some heavy fog cleared off to thin high clouds.</p> <div></div>

<p>I would have washed it down the drain without asking anything, poured the remaining in the punctured bottle into a good bottle, rinsed the punctured bottle and examined the puncture. If the puncture is at a production seam I would assume it is a manufacturing defect otherwise it inadvertently was set on a sharp piece of debris.<br> I had a bottle if Ilford Rapid Fixer concentrate that would leak 1/4 ounce every 7 to 10 days, a production defect in the plastic bottle so it happens.</p>

<p>I would get some tennis elbow/golfers elbow support braces that you wear snug on your forearm 2 inches below the elbow and possibly a monopod and keep shooting the 80-200 f2.8.</p>

<p>If there is/was glass on both sides of the shutter then it has a lens but as pictures it does not. The Alphax shutter came in sizes and I cannot tell what size it is from your picture. Being the aperture is f3.5 with a top speed of 1/100 it is probably a #2. It will attach to any camera that uses lens boards that are large enough to hold the shutter and allow the assembly to fit on the camera's front standard.</p>

<p>Two questions, 1. does the wind pull down to allow easier loading? 2. Holding the wind key inside the camera try turning the wind handle in the wind direction, does it turn without moving the wind key?</p>

<p>Go to the Home Page, http://www.hamrick.com/ . At the top of the home page is a Red Box with Download VueScan for ________ which should be your OS, mine is Windows 8.1. If it is incorrect scroll down to the Vuescan Downloads box and select the version you want. The latest version, 9.4.59 should run on your machine.</p>

<p>The body side of the back opening has a valley with the light seals in the bottom of it. The back has a ridge on the edge of it that fits into the valley on the body. Foam deteriorates with age, black yarn becomes compresses and hard, both have been used in cameras for years with foam the most likely. The light seal for the mirror will be around the top of the mirror box where the mirror goes when it flips up for exposure.</p> <p>Pay close attention to the hinge and latch areas of the back valley as that is where most leaks appear. The leakage is faint or the image would be completely blown out as in overexposure. </p> <p> </p>

<p>1st image-film not wound to frame counter 1.<br> Dense streaks- poor processing, chemicals not acting on the full image area evenly.<br> Milky white- film touching itself during processing or very close to itself during processing preventing chemicals from reaching the emulsion properly.</p> <p>Which type of processing does the lab do, dip and dunk or roller transport? Both streaks and milky white spaces are suggestive of dip and dunk where the film was not wound onto the reel properly and/or not agitated properly.</p> <p>While waiting on the negatives check the light seals around the back and the mirror. They should be spongy, if soft and gooey or very hard they need to be replaced.</p>

<p>The 1st image, film box and canister, appears to be on the end or beginning of the roll. Be sure to wind until 1 shows in the film counter window.<br> Do the lines, white in the photos, show up on the negatives as denser streaks or are they milky white?<br> I'm suspecting processing over light leak. Some images appear to have uneven processing while others might have a faint light leak.<br> Does the back lock closed tightly or does it have a just detectable movement when closed?</p>

<p>On both of my Dell machines OEM installation makes 5 partitions on whatever HD space is available. 4 of those partitions are in the mb of disk space with the largest for recovery and the 5th partition the C partition. On this machine with its base 1tb HD it takes all of it, with a second 1tb HD installed it takes both of them. On the other Dell with a 500gb HD it takes all of it. You can download the Win8.1 64 bit ISO from Windows Knowledge Base and make either a installation DVD or thumb drive and install Win 8.1 without the Dell addons but it too will take all the HD space available. The C partition can be resized after Windows installation.</p>