thirteenthumbs

<p>I shot some T Max 400 that was 12 years out of date, stored at room temperature. Exposed and processed normal it had a just detectable to the eye increase in base fog.</p> <p>I shot some TriX that was 30 years out of date and it required extra exposure and modified development to get a printable negative. It was kept in a bulk loader stored at room temperature, a freebie from Craigslist. </p> <p>Shoot a test roll bracketing each subject 1/2 stop and 1 stop over metered then evaluate the negatives when you get them back. Either the normal or +1/2 stop will be the correct exposure. Be sure to use a verity of subjects and lighting if possible. </p>

<p>Nikon D300, 35-135 f3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor @ 135 f8: built in flash, front curtain, 0 compensation; ISO400, 1/125.</p><div></div>

<p>Nikon D300, 35-135 f3.5-4.5 Nikkor AF @ 46mm f16 + extension tube.<br> Nef converted to Tiff in NXD, minor curves adjustment in photoshop.</p><div></div>

<p>Sarah, you are not going to resolve this until you follow a set procedure of test.<br> 1. set the <strong>viewfinder focus </strong>as shown on page 34.<br> 2. get a tripod. cheap ones can tip over easily or induce vibration causing unsharp images. Make sure it can support the weight of your camera and lens.<br> 3. set the camera up on a tripod.<br> 4. set the camera to <strong>manual focus</strong>.<br> 5. set up a test similar to the one in the first post on page 4 of this thread.<br> 6. manually focus on each target with the widest aperture of the lens and make a test shot with each target in focus in the center of the view frame.<br> 7. set the camera to <strong>auto focus S </strong><br> 8. repeat the sequence of exposures as in step 5 in the same sequence.<br> The D7000 manual in pdf download: https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/17008<br /><br> Pressing the Qual and exposure compensation buttons at the same time and holding for 2 seconds or longer resets most camera functions to default.<br /><br> Setting the focus lock lever to the dot use the multi selector to select the focus point, single point, 9 point, 21 point, or 39 point focusing.<br /></p>

<p>The battery check is nothing more than a pacifier.<br> Both lights will light when pressed in a static condition but when you fire the shutter it will stall during film advance for 1 to 3 seconds or not complete until the shutter button is released. It is more prevalent in Ch, Cl,Cs modes than in S mode. Press the shutter half way then press the battery check, you'll most likely see one light and may see no lights if the shutter is fired. On fresh batteries tripping the shutter with the battery check button pressed both light may go off for 1/60 second but with weak batteries that look OK static both lights will go off for most if not all of the shutter operation and film advance.</p> <p>I no longer leave batteries in the camera for more than 2 or 3 weeks unless I'm using it regularly.</p>

<p>Search engine: google<br> Search term: mb21 service manual<br> First hit: http://www.arcticwolfs.net/data/servicemanuals/MB-21.pdf<br> Same queston was asked on another site a few weeks ago. The initial post was near identical wording. The above info was supplied there also.</p> <p>Yes, the outer covering has to be lifted up/removed to access the screws. It can be done easily without damaging the covering.<br> My experence was a set of Duracell batteries about 6 months old were checked and looked fine, 3 months later heavily corroded at the base of the grip. The grip base was flushed with moistened baking soda. It worked properly until it dried out. I failed to repair it due to lack of proper tools. I purchased a working used one off ebay for about the same price of the tools. The wires are #22 or #24 guage and the contacts are similar to a processor chip in many current devices.</p>

<p>The pdf on Nikon's site lens compatability page is 269. Focusing is covered on pages 91-99 and includes a chart with samples where the AF system can produce inaccurate focus.<br> You were using Matrix Metering, it read the deep shadow inside the barn and set the exposure accordingly resulting in the childrens faces being slightly over exposed. Centerweighted metering would work better in this instance.</p>

<p>This is a situation where I would switch to manual focus as I will be assured the focus will not shift. <br> It may be the lens is not compatable with the body causing focus errors, read the lens compatabality section of your camera's instruction manual. The focus screen should be accurate but the RF indicator and or the focus sensors may not be. My D300 manual states such for some lens.</p>

<p>The purple line across the posted sample is a dirty scanner that needs a thourough cleaning, the underside of the scan glass, the mirrors, the lens front and rear outer surfaces and the sensor.<br> Test your therometer against another therometer at recomended processing temperature. At 35°C you may be inducuing a color cast from the low temperature. I have used Jobo press kits, a 3 step C-41 kit, that calls for 103°F/39.4°C. You should be free of color shifts at 38.3°C to 40.5°C. The first step requires constant agatiton, the others do not. All chemicals and rinse water should be at the same temperature. Do not rinse after the stabalizer.</p>

<p>+3 on the V500. The V600 is the same scanner with a legal size document bed. The V550 recently replaced the V500 and the differences are minor.</p>

<p>Berlebach<br> http://www.adorama.com/l/Tripods-and-Supports/Tripods/Berlebach~Tripod-Legs</p>

<p>Svema 125 comes up a Color film when googled.<br> Svema films on MDC http://www.digitaltruth.com/chart/search_text.php?Film=Svema<br> Are you sure its B&W?</p>

<p>It should be easy to make a drying tent from thin wood or dowel rods and sheet plastic, all lost cost items. The tent should be 10 to 12 inches either side of the film hanging rod and be at least the length of the film roll to a few inches below it.</p>

<p>The 8600f should go a good job on 120 and fair on 35. I'm not a cannon person so I don't know if its a good price or not. Cannon USA shows drivers for Win8.1 so it will work on current operating systems without problems.<br> Cannon's site shows it came with a 35mm film holder, a 35mm mounted slide holder, and a 120 film holder so make sure you get these with it as they will be hard to get otherwise.</p> <p>Test it before you buy it if possible. </p>

<p>adapter=unit, edit timer timed out during the edit.</p>

<p>Skip it. It would be OK for scanning prints with but nothing more.<br /> A transparency unit is needed to scan negatives or slides.<br /> The V370 is the lowest model listed that has a transparency unit but it only does 35mm. A dedicated 35mm scanner will do better.<br /> The V500 is the lowest model that will scan 120. It has been replaced by the V550. I picked up a refurbished V500 for $99 US a little over a year ago on the clearance center and they might show up once more but they will be few and far between.<br /> Occasionally someone buys a new scanner to do a project then sells it on Craiglist for a reasonable price.</p>

<p>The malicious code directed the equipment to do one thing while reporting something different to the control and monitoring systems. Speed of 1000 rpm was reported as 500 rpm, temperature of 100°F reported as 75°F for example. <br> The seriousness of this is the code can be <strong>modified</strong> to affect any piece of equipment using a CPU including your desktop, laptop, tablet, or cell phone or car.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I'm planning on buying my boyfriend a film scanner for his birthday</p> </blockquote> <p>A flat bed scanner does a fair job on 120/220 and a poor job on 35mm film.<br> The 2450 has a max optical resolution of 2400 ppi which will only produce a fair scan on 120 that might make a good 11 x 14 print but on 35mm a 4x6 print will be about the best, good enough to know which negatives warrant a better scan.<br> Epson's web site shows drivers for Win 7 but it most likely will not run on Win 8 or higher.<br> I would not pay more than half of the asking price for one complete with all the negative holders that it shipped with and less if they are missing.<br> Check Epson's Clearance Center for refurbished scanners. They occasionally have V500, V550, or V600 for reasonable prices that should fall within reach of your budget. Even one of these won't do much better than an 8x10 for 35mm but will be good enough for a 16x20 from 120 provided it is a very good exposure.</p> <p>A dedicated scanner for 35mm is best. Plustek makes good 35mm scanners.</p> <p> </p>

<p>A few weeks back there was a NOVA program on PBS about cyber attacks. A spokesperson/analyst from Norton was the main authority featured in the program. A malware was developed whose code operates with operating systems security in place of trying to circumvent it. The code was designed to seek out a specific target and affect it only. The target was the programmable controllers used in Iran's centrifuge for enriching Uranium. It worked. It reportedly set back their nuclear enrichment program 6 months. It is speculated that the U.S. and Israel governments worked together to develop the code. Neither government has denied nor confirmed it. The code was not intended to go public but it has.<br> Iran's nuclear computer system is not connected to the internet in any way. Cd's, DVD's, flash drives with the code were labeled with various company info such as payroll backup and left in public places where employes of the centrifuges frequented during off times.<br> All the more reason to pay attention to attachments and only download from trusted sites.</p>

<blockquote> <p>For AF lenses with an aperture ring, check the aperture ring, 180 degrees opposite from the f5.6 mark.</p> </blockquote> <p>Yes it is, embossed into the plastic, easy to overlook.</p>

<p>Where is the serial number located on a 60mm f2.8 Macro Nikkor AF lens?<br> I just received a copy and cannot find a serial number anywhere on the outside of the lens. It is used in very good to like new condition identical to http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/66987-USA/Nikon_1987_AF_Micro_Nikkor_60mm_f_2_8D.html<br> A sample test photo is/will be attached. D300, Aperture priority, f11.<br> Thanks in advance.</p><div></div>

<p>Replace the temperature probe.<br> If that does not solve the problem then the electronics will need servicing/replacing.</p> <p>Your description is classic temperature probe failure in a multitude of equipment that uses a temperature sensing probe.<br> http://www.jobo-usa.com/resources/manuals<br> http://www.jobo.com/</p>

<p>The camera uses 127 film.<br> A downloadable instruction manual is available for free here: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/ricoh/ricoh_super_44/ricoh_super_44.pdf<br> Freestyle, http://www.freestylephoto.biz/ , lists 127 in B&W and Color , 1 type of each but are currently out of stock on line.<br> Freestyle has a Los Angles retail store and a Santa Fe Springs catalog store, click on the about us tab on the home page. They may know where to get 127 film processed.</p> <p>Have fun with the project.</p>

<p>I'm seeing them as newton rings. Newton rings occur when the film touches the scanner bed glass.<br> The only solution is to make sure the negatives are flat in the film holder or to turn the film over so that the bow in the film is pointing up.</p> <p>I'm betting that if you look at the negative with a good loupe the rings will not be there. </p>

<p>Where was the sun/main light source with reference to the camera back? Inspect the darkslide slot, its a likely suspect.</p> <p>Modern film base is thinner than it was in years past. Roll film holders made in the 1970's or earlier will have errors due to film base thickness, holders made in the 1980's or later might have film base errors.<br> Two systems were used in roll film holders, a clutch system that responds to load based on frame number and mechanical geared. In the clutch system the tension required to move the film a given amount is sensed and when that limit is reached the film quits moving even if the lever is not at its mechanical limit. Wear can result in the clutch slipping prematurely resulting in film not being moved far enough causing overlapping of frames. Cleaning and adjusting the drive system is necessary to correct problems.<br> In a mechanical geared system the film is advanced a fixed amount with a cam machined for the frames based on the film thickness. To correct frame spacing in this type of system the take up spool inter diameter must be increased or the diameter of the roller on the take up side increased by .012 to .016 inch depending on the vintage of the roll film holder. This results in the same amount of film per frame to be moved further.<br> Current film backing paper is .006 inch. Kodak and Ilford films are on a .0045 inch thick base, Fuji is on a .0035 inch thick base. Older films were on a .005 or .006 inch thick base.<br> The uneven edge is caused by the film not being flat in the film plane. This can be caused by the advance system or the supply side tension spring being weak.</p>