thirteenthumbs

<p>Springtime during the drought.<br> D300, 35-135 AF Nikkor, extension tube.</p><div></div>

<p>Springtime during the drought.<br> D300, 35-135 AF Nikkor, extension tube.</p> <div></div>

<p>Springtime during the drought.<br> Nikon D300, 35-135 AF Nikkor, extension tube.</p><div></div>

<p>24mm x 36mm crop of the original reduced as above.</p><div></div>

<p>The V600 should be adequate for your needs. The V800 and V850 have larger scanning area if you are doing 4x5 or larger formats. I have a V500, basically the same as a V600. Here are some results to compare: Camera- Miniature Speed Graphic, 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 format with a 6x7 roll film holder attached. 101mm Raptar 1/200 @ f16-f22; out of date TriX, exposed at ISO/EI 400, processed in HC110 dilution B for 6 minutes at 68°F, scanned on a Epson V500 48 bit RGB at 4800dpi, saved in tiff format. Reduced in PS to 8 bit RGB then gray scale, then in steps to 300 dpi then 700 pixel width and 100k jpeg for this sites in line requirements. No other adjustments made.</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>Camera Shake!<br> 1/focal length= slowest hand held shutter speed to use.<br> Gently press the shutter button until the shutter clicks, never jab it.<br> Use a mono pod.</p>

<p>http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/kalart_1.html page 8 is the focal length table of focal lengths for formats. I assume one could modify or make new internal parts so it would work with shorter or longer focal length lens.</p> <p>A simpler approach would be to make a focus scale and attach it to the rails/bed then use a hand held/hot shoe mount range finder to obtain an accurate distance for the subject. </p>

<p>Hugo Meyer Rangefinders were made for <strong>one </strong>focal length only. They will adjust for the production focal length variation for that focal length. There is a code on the base side of the rangefinder for the focal length it is for. The rangefinder has to be removed from the camera to see the code. 4C is for 135mm. A 4C Hugo Meyer will just adjust for a 127mm focal length lens that measures 127mm to 130mm.<br> I do not know how many focal lengths they were made for but I assume 5 to 6 for the common focal lengths used in press/ commercial photography of the day.</p> <p>Adjustment procedure: http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6319</p>

<p>If that bright spot is a weakness in the shutter curtain it will be so weak as to only be seen in total darkness with the inspection light source on the opposite side of the inspection viewing and will be a dull yellowish spot.</p> <p>In both the goose and fountain photos the sun appears to be around 120° to 130° right of the subject. This suggest lens flare of some type or stray light entering the image path from the viewfinder eye piece. <br> If there are any chips in the front or rear element of the lens fill them with flat black paint or do what the old timers did, fill them with India ink.</p> <p>Any scrap or shinny spot in the image path including the inside of camera back can result in a reflection that will cause this type of bright spot in the image. Cover any spots with flat black paint.</p>

<p>There are several older scanners that ran on WinXP, Vista, or possibly Win7 that would scan 4x5 in a single pass.<br> Microtek 8700, i900 , and Epson 4990 are 3 of them. VueScan is a scanning software that runs on many operating systems and works with most scanners made to date.</p> <p>I currently use a Epson V500 and a flimsy 4x5 holder from a Epson 1640su and do a two pass then stitch in ps. Cut a piece of rigid, opaque material to fit the bed of the scanner so that it places the edge of the film at the edge of the transparency scan area for easier alignment and stray light/reflection blocking. </p>

<p>The Kodak Ball Bearing shutter is covered in this manual<br> http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/repair_1.html</p>

<p>If you are uncomfortable soldering then take the camera to a camera repair shop that does in house repairs and ask them to resolder the battery box for you, they may turn you down. If none exists then try electronic repair shops in your area, or you can send it to me.</p>

<p>I would remove the wires, one at a time, clean the old solder off, and look at the wire just under the insulation (wire covering), it should be clean and shinny.</p> <p>The terminals appear to have been bent 45° from their regular positions. They appear to have been 90° to the battery case at one time. This is not a big deal as long as they do not touch each other or any other metal object when installed in the body. If they touch each other a battery would explode within a few minutes of being installed.</p> <p>Be sure to use rosin core solder only for electrical work. Applying the solder iron direct to the existing solder is fine for removal but on reattaching place the tip of the iron next the the wire and terminal junction then touch the solder to the wire, when the solder flows onto the wire and terminal remove the solder and soldering iron and allow to cool without movement of the wire or terminal.</p> <p>The white arrow is the space Michael and I are talking about. There should be an air space, piece of plastic, or rubber between the metal strips, 1/32 to 1/16 inch will be adequate.</p><div></div>

<p>Your pictures are too small to see the fine detail I need to make a determination. <br> The green wire appears to be cold soldered at the battery compartment. There should be an air space or insulating material between the two contact strips, is there?</p> <p>Both wires appera to have been resoldered to the battery compartment poorly.</p>

<blockquote> <p>However, depending on which way the front locking lever is pushed, the lens standard is slightly out of true one way or the other, making for a miniscule swing movement (fraction of a mm).</p> </blockquote> <p>SO. (standard operation). To prevent install a pair of infinity stops. <br> To install the infinity stops run the rails in fully then if you would like to focus beyond infinity run the rails out .040 inch ± .010 inch and lock. Unlock the front standard and pull out until the image on the ground glass is tack sharp with the aperture wide open and the focus is on a target at least 5000 feet away. Lock the standard and check that it is square to the body/bed. Adjust as needed until the front standard is square to the bed and the infinity target is tack sharp on the gg with a loupe. Slide the infinity stops up until they contact the front standard and secure with their set screws.</p> <p>Without infinity stops installed: run the rails out until the first cross bar is beyond the bed the length of the front standard. Slide the front standard out over the opening between the bed and first cross bar of the rails. Turn the camera upside down. Holding the screw in the center of the front standard lock stationary loosen the nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Turn the screw counterclockwise (left) to tighten the locking action or clockwise (right) to loosen the locking action. With the lock lever center of the front standard opening turn the screw about the width of the screw driver slot at a time so that the lock lever holds the front standard in place when moved about half its movement range without applying force to it. Lock the screw position with the nut before testing the adjusted position. Check that the front standard slides smoothly in the unlocked position.</p>

<p>I would go to http://www.nikonusa.com/en/index.page > service and support > browse software updates and download the latest version of NX2.<br> Uninstall your current installation of NX2, run a registry cleaner such as Advanced System Care http://www.iobit.com/advancedsystemcareper.php or Ccleaner http://download.cnet.com/CCleaner/?tag=main;pop then install the new download. I am finding that after security updates from Microsoft are installed and a problem occurs in NX-D a new version will come up a few days to a week later on Nikon's site. The update feature inside the application will not show any updates available but a fresh download will update the installed version. The delete, clean registry, install fresh version cuts or eliminates corruption errors that may exist that can be carried over to the newer version.</p>

<p>https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13948 , scroll down to the software box and click on Capture NX2 or Capture NX, whichever you want/need. Save the PDF to a folder on your HD once it loads.<br> In the event the above link fails its www.nikonusa.com then hover over service and support then click on<br> browse product manuals software is the third box from the top and Capture NX2 is at the top.</p>

<p>Download <em>purge.zip </em>at http://www.inksupply.com/purging.cfm There is a RED purge page in the file. You can scale it to full page if desired. Printing a single color patch that fills 1/3 to 1/2 a page shows the condition of the print head.</p>

<p>Is your camera a Mamiya RB or RZ ?</p>

<p>Full Optical View Finder service manual available in PDF for a few $, contact off forum.</p> <div></div>

<p>The 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 Century Graphic http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/century-graphic.html is a Mahognite (Bakelite) version of the 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 Crown Graphic except that the back is made into the body.<br> This guide book http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_4.html covers its operation. </p> <p>There is an optional Optical View Finder that mounts on the top right of the camera that has a rotating view window that should turn easily and stop at infinity then turn the other direction. It should have click stops at the marked distances. They sometimes stick after years of non use. They are a crude approximation device at best.<br> Is this the part you are having the problem with?<br> http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_1.html</p>

<p>Nikon D300; 35-135 f3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor; 20mm extension tube; ISO 400<br> California poppy starting to open.</p><div></div>

<p>HC 110 at 65°F will reduce fog by 50% or better. At ISO 50 increase published development times in HC 110 by 60%. I had some that the image was not distinguishable from the fog when exposed and processed normal but produced a usable image at this modified development.</p>

<p>The Wollensak Raptar was renamed Optar when produced for Graflex Corp. .<br> The Wollensak Rapax shutter was renamed Graphex when produced for Graflex Corp. .<br> The Crown and Speed Graphic cameras were made by Graflex Corp. .<br> The 135 Optar was the standard lens on the 4x5 Crown and Speed Graphic.<br> I have yet to see a bad 135 Optar.<br> The Raptar/Optar was introduced in the late 1940's possibly 1947 along with the introduction of the Pacemaker line of Graphic cameras.<br> This 1949 tell all the printed info on the Raptar/Optar line of lens:<br> http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/wollensak_3.html</p>

<p>No edge marking, FP4 maybe?</p>