thirteenthumbs

This is the lens diagram for a Zeiss Tessar f2.8 , the f3.5 will likely be similar. Light travels the direction of the arrow. The front trim ring unscrews from the lens barrel allowing the front element to be removed. The front barrel unscrews from the shutter and a retaining ring on the back of the front barrel unscrews allowing the middle element to be removed. The rear pair are cemented, unlikely it has been reversed. The lens barrels will have a lip that the lens element sits against. It should be easy to determine if the elements are in the correct order by examining the curvature of the elements without dismantling the barrels. The inside diameter of the barrels is slightly larger than the lens element by .1mm or less and if an element is cocked in the barrel the edge will not be flush with the trim/retaining ring the full diameter of that element. I also suspect that if an element were reversed or cocked in the barrel you would see other distortion in the images.

Devan, check your messages.

Using a microphone against the case is a crude, inaccurate attempt to test a shutter's speed. There is a similar app for iphones and the like. I posted a light sensor approach a few years back but the redisign has left it buried in the archives and it no longer shows up in searches. Graflex.org :: View topic - Shutter Speed Tester/Testing is the origonal thread, photo.net was the secondary post. Being Radio Shack is dying you may have to use an online electronics supply such as Mouser.com . Easy to build, very accurate.

10 minutes is a 25% increase over 8 minutes OR a 1 to 1 1/2 stop push which is why your EI100 shots look OK. 8 minutes is a 10% increase over 7 minutes. I would shoot a roll at EI400 and process it for 7 1/2 minutes at 20°C. In low light such as dusk I would not go more than 8 minutes 45 seconds.

Ilex #3 Universal is the shutter, there is a trim ring next to the glass that has the lens type, focal length in millimeters, centameters, or inches and f stop. There are a few B&J catalogs in the wayback archive Camera Eccentric: Info or do a web search for Burke & James catalog. The paint on the camera is lead based. Test the 1 second and 1/2 second shutter speeds against a clock second hand, close the shutter is good to use, the further off it is the more it needs servicing.

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You can always down size from a high resolution scan and have a good image but you cannot upsize from a low resolution scan and get a good image. Let your planned usage determine the size not others opinions.

Cleaned, lubed, shutter fires a consistent 1/45 as designed. Made by Kodal, LTD. London. Lens and view windows are clear and free of scratches. https://www.flickr.com/gp/thirteenthumbs/wZRW24 Includes 2 620 spools, 1 metal original, 1 plastic Film Photography Project. $25 + shipping from South San Francisco, Ca 94080

From the wires in the lower right and light pollution I have to say some local light source fogged your image to a degree. Find a darker place with a good sky view.

I had an XP desktop self destruct when the HD motor shorted and burned the power supply and possibly the mother board. I ran a utility on my HP XP machine and found the smart self test failed so I replaced the hard drives. I had those HD's and others salvaged to discard so I went shopping on ebay and found a external power supply, cables that adapted various older style HD's to usb for less than $20, wiped the drives with Darik's Boot and Nuke Gruman pattern then ewasted them. I strongly suggest getting an connect kit to use the HD via a USB port to prevent risking your computer. Example: New USB to IDE SATA S-ATA 2.5 3.5 HDD Hard Drive HD Adapter Converter Cable Kit | eBay Ebay search: hd to usb kit | eBay

The os serial number is stored in bios or a prom chip on the mother board,not the HD. I do not know what Microsoft collects when you create your account but they store it on their cloud service. If a mother board fails the OEM has special software that will restore the serial number information to the new mother board but you have to go through their support to get it. I think the B grade service tech was trying to extract more money from you by selling you a product you didn't need.

Who/what told you that? Create the installation tool linked in post #7, skip the serial number step with the I don't have a serial number and continue the installation then when you log in with your Microsoft account it will activate the installation and all should be good. Installing your backup software then restoring the backup should work. I have had virus attacks in the past, installed Win10 on the second HD with the original disconnected and had no problems Have you tried running the installation in compatability mode? My computer was corrupt resulting in abnormalites/loss of functionallity in File Explorer. I ran Darik's Boot and Nuke then reinstalled everything, time consuming but no hicckups.

Roll back to the version of Vuescan that the scanner worked on. Solves problem, stay with it, report the error to vuescan. Problem still exists, turn the scanner off for 30 minutes then try again. If the problem still exist repair or ewaste it.

Being Eric Snowden is now working for Czar Putin who shares the hacks with his bed buddy Kim Jogn-un and others I'll keep the updates comming until Dictator Donald starts sticking his nose into my files.

That link is the media creation tool, create a boot usb drive or cd to do a clean install. A clean install gets rid of any manufacturers bloatware they incorporate into their installation. Dell has a lot of resource hogging junk.

Open an Administrator Command Prompt (may be called Windows Power Shell) then when it comes up c:\windows\system 32> type the following command sfc /scannow press enter and wait for System File Checker to complete. System File Checker (sfc) Once it completes with no errors left/all errors fixed then type dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth at the command prompt and press enter and wait for it to complete. I typed the commands in a separate line so they can be copied and pasted into the Administrator Command Prompt. hint: right click the start button. I started with Win 8 on one machine and Win8.1 on the other updated with the free upgrade then did a clean install. Once the upgrade to Win 10 has been done a clean install will activate upon logging in to your microsoft account. Download Windows 10

Go to PC World PCWorld - News, tips and reviews from the experts on PCs, Windows, and more type Windows 10 in the search box and start reading the articles on the OS. I did a clean install on both desktops and have a Vista Laptop I bought refurbished with Win10, all 3 64 bit machines. Older Microsoft OS are archaic. I do have Win7 as a dual boot for running Silverfast Ai6, rarely use it.

Any bright spots along the bottom of the image plane? Paint over them with flat black paint. Is the line on the negative beyond the image frame? Possible pressure line from being too tight at that position if allowed to be there for a period of time. Position a negative over the image frame, emulsion side facing the lens, top of the image at the bottom of the frame, and see what lines up on the body and back.

Looks like a fault of the scanner. Are you sure its on the negative? Top of the image is bottom of the image plane in camera.

The next stage of degradation is colored lines in direction of the scan path of the scanner. The lines can be from hair width to 1/4 inch wide. They are normally blue, yellow, or magenta regardless of document/negative type or scan mode/resolution.

ALL scanners gas out and leave a residue on the underside of the bed glass, mirrors, lens front, and eventually the lens rear and sensor as well as the lamp. Epson scanners disassembly easily. Clean the bed glass, mirrors, lens front, and lamp. If you do not feel comfortable doing this yourself then have it done at an Epson authorized repair facility. DO NOT remove the sensor as its position has to be realigned on reinstallation. A .001 inch /.0254 mm error in position will result in a distorted scan. The lamp may be getting weak and not illuminating evenly and require replacement. The specs say its a Xeon Gas cold cathode fluorescent, and not likely to be the cause.

I agree 100% with post #7. Being I don't know the geographic area you are in I cannot recommend a product for the bellows. The bellows are likely vinyl. Treat them with a vinyl restorer other than Armorall. Pledge furniture polish in the yellow can will work also. Its good you got some money back but its still a pricey camera.

I would use a wide straight edge or square and check that the lens standard is perpendicular to the bed. The fact that the lens mount ring was loose suggest that someone else had it off and could not figure out how to correct it or they assembled something wrong resulting the the adjustment not correcting the error. I have not worked on Rangefinder Cameras but have serviced side rangefinders for press cameras and written servicing/calibrating instructions for Super Graphic cameras. I have seen diagrams for the rangefinder in other makes of RF cameras. They all work on the same principle. The fixed mirror is usually a beamsplitter with 50% light transmission, it is mounted at a 45° angle to the light path of the lens. The view eyepiece is in line with the fixed mirror. The movable mirror or prism is connected via linkage to the focus mechanism. Infinity is when both the fixed and movable mirrors are at the same angle. Some rangefinder cameras may use an array of mirrors to compensate for the offset of the eyepiece. I would start by putting a ground glass on the film rails as film is when making an exposure and check focus at infinity. A temporary ground glass can be made by placing strips of Scotch Magic Transparent Tape next to each other without overlapping onto a piece of glass or clear acrylic plastic (CD holder cover), tape side toward the lens. Check with a loupe. A good infinity target should be at least 5000 feet/1524 meters away, the further the better. If the focus scale is not correct then correct it before any further disassembly of the camera. If the focus is accurate then I would suspect that a mirror has come loose from its housing and needs to be reattached. Carefully clean all optical surfaces while you have it open. Standard calibration distances start at infinity, then at 25 feet/7.62 meter, 15 feet/‪4.572‬ meter, 6 feet/‪1.8288‬ meter then go back to infinity and recheck/adjust until all focused distanced from infinity to the lens close focus distance is correct. Dirty/stick/slow to move movements are a PITA to adjust, clean, smooth operating ones are much easier.

1. Yes, it affects the plane of focus. Check for not fully opened bed/locked bed braces, something may be bent. 2. With the bed closed open the camera back, tighten the retaining ring around the rear of the lens/shutter, it will have notches 180° apart at 90° intervals. 3. Once the lens/shutter is tight and the camera opens with the lens parallel to the film plane check the RF again. The linkage may be loose, bent, or a mirror may be loose inside. I think you paid too much, return it if possible.

Its a light leak on both cameras. Shinning a light around the outside of a camera will rarely show the leak. Place a light leak negative from that model on the film plane as it was when exposed, image upside down and left/right reversed. Note where the light leak area of the negative aligns with the camera body. Now remove the lens, and lock the mirror (if equipped) up, take the camera into a darkroom, put a bright light inside the camera from the lens mount being careful not to burn the bellows with a hot lamp and observe the camera for light leaks, especially the area that aligned with the leak on the negative. A dim yellowish dot is a weak spot light leak and a bright white light spot is a total failure of the bellows or light seals be it the size of a straight pin point or larger. Looking at pictures on the web of the cameras I strongly suspect the bellows separated/torn at the camera body or a warped back. Looked again at the sample image, a slight double image at the right edge of the leak stripe, bellows tear/separation at or near the body.