thirteenthumbs

yesiknow that the corrison ate through the kodak comband they crumbled away. dwaynes needs to fix their web site. FILE / IMAGE UPLOAD FAILED AGAIN!!!!

Dwayne's lists Ektachrome and Kodachrome under Movie Film in the services tab. A trusted name in photo processing for over 50 years - Dwayne's Photo There are possibly several other places to get it processed also. Search engine movie film processing and see what turns up. Seattle Film Works film that says Process SFW-XL made in Italy can be processed in C-41 chemistry at 85°F or slightly lower. It does not have the remjet backing. Higher temperatures result in faded colors to blank film.

What type of movie film are you asking about, 8mm home movie film, Super 8 movie film, 16mm? Where are you located?

If you go to Adox web site and find the fixer or the adox page via google you get ADOX | ADOFIX P then google translate Google Translate we find that paper fix time is 2 minutes and film time is 4 minutes. This is an ammonium thiosulfate powdered concentrate. I find it curious google translate translates to flushing time for paper and fixing time for film when the same word is used for both in German.

Is there any play in the lens when attached to the body and locked in place? From memory the alignment is critical and a 1° rotation play is enough to cause problems. The switch on the lens that selects between cable release and body release can be temperamental also. Check levers and pins for slight bends that could occur in shipping or storage.

I'm not a fan of the common third party testing that bases their findings on a film resolution in line pairs per millimeter test target. There were better dedicated film scanners that are no longer made and will not run on current operating systems.

Amazon.com: Digital Caliper - 6" Electronic Caliper by Calipro - Stainless Steel with XL LCD Screen - Instant SAE-Metric Conversion with Case and Spare Battery: Home Improvement Search Results for digital caliper at The Home Depot Hardware stores, auto parts stores are sources for them. The Amazon link is very similar to the one I have. One must be careful when measuring depth to keep the caliper positioned correctly to prevent erroneous readings.

I have a Plustek 7200 and 7600ai. The 7200 will not run on newer operating systems, the 7600 will run on Win 10 but Silverfast Ai6 will not. I get excellent results off either model. I find Silverfast Ai superior to Vuescan in every respect. Vuescan tries to be everything to all scanners fut falls short. I suspect Rodeo may have gotten a bad unit. If a 35mm slide or negative is good enough for a gallery the Plustek will produce a scan that can be printed to gallery quality easily. The only scanner better is a drum scanner.

This is what I would do if it were mine/in my possession. I would remove the lens elements from the shutter (taking lens), lock the shutter open on T or B with a locking cable release with the aperture wide open. Now I would use a digital caliper and measure from the shutter front surface to the film pressure plate making sure to keep the caliper perpendicular to the film gate at 12, 3, 6,9 o'clock positions. Next I would open the back and check the pressure plate to back distance at each corner then check each film rail top and bottom to the front standard. Each measurement from the shutter to pressure plate should be the same, each corner of the pressure plate to back should be the same, each edge of the film rails to the front standard should be the same. Looking at your lifeguard photo I would expect to find a .001 to .0015 inch (.0254-.0381 mm) difference between the left and right sides of the camera. Depending on what measurement is off will determine what I check next.

f number=lens focal length divided by entrance pupil diameter. A ballpark measurement is to divide the marked lens focal length by the diameter of the aperture opening when viewed through the front lens element(s). Also the approximate entrance pupil diameter can be determined by dividing the lens focal length by the f number. A 75mm lens at f5.6 should have a 13.4 mm entrance pupil, at f22 a 3.4mm entrance pupil. A 80mm lens at f5.6 should have a 14.3 mm entrance pupil, at f22 a 3.64mm entrance pupil. An accurate measurement will require an optical measurement of the lens as it can be off a little from its marked focal length and the actual diameter of the geometric shape formed by the aperture blades. A quick check will show if the aperture scale is correct or if the aperture was incorrectly assembled.

Favorite Classics / Free Camera Repair Manuals Yashica D at the very bottom of the page, unknown if its similar to your mat or not. Be sure to read the paragraph at the top of the page before trying a download.

Stop the aperture down to f32, open the shutter on B, carefully inspect the aperture for any trace of foreign substance or deformations. The bladed are blued steel .0015 to .002 inch thick. Check the aperture from both the front and rear. The opening should be a equal sided geometric pattern. The pattern will depend on the number of blades used in the aperture. If all is good at this point the problem is the mechanical operation. Aperture blades have a pin on each end (some are staked holes in the blades) with one end fixed and the other in a movable ring attached to the selector lever. The main ingredient in Lighter Fluid is Naphtha which will damage plastics and rubber. I will not use/have never used lighter fluid for any cleaning application. The best contact cleaner on the market uses a combination of Naphtha and Alcohol. 90% Isopropyl Alcohol is a good degreaser and the 10% water is far less harmful than pure Naphtha or the additives in lighter fluid. Extra fine powdered graphite works well to lubricate aperture and shutter blades.

Many photographic chemicals crystallize if kept in a cold environment. The crystals may dissolve back into solution on warming. Test on non critical materials.

Epson V800/850 or the previous version V700/750. The V8xx uses LED light source, the V7xx uses cold cathode florescent light source. The V8xx will have a slightly higher Dmax.

HC110 dilution B is 1:32, unofficial dilution H is 1:63, double development times for dilution B for dilution H. Several years ago I came across some 30 to 40 year old TriX in a bulk loader that yielded 6 -36 exposure rolls. I found that HC110 at 65°F reduced fb+f by 75% over 68°F developing temperature. Unexposed old film will require experimentation to find the Exposure Index and development time to get a usable image. On the TriX I found an EI of 50 and a 60% increase in development time was needed to get a printable image, not the optimal image from the film. If all you have is a roll or two use it for display. How the film has been stored will have a significant effect on how it will preform.

Amazon.com : Kodak Portra 400 Professional ISO 400, 220 Color Negative Film (5 Roll per Pack) : Photographic Film : Camera & Photo Try ebay also. Freestyle and Adorama do not list any 220 film.

There is a free Rolleiflex TLR service manual available at Favorite Classics / Free Camera Repair Manuals Read the introductory paragraph at the top of the page and use the login information in the box to access the download. It covers the Rolleicord VA and VB. Models not covered by the manual will likely be of similar build.

Take/cut a piece of ground glass to fit the film rails of the camera, not the backing paper rails. Substitute for a ground glass are a piece of plain glass or clear acrylic with strips of Scotch Magic Transparent tape next to each other. Place the ground side of the glass or tape side of the substitute toward the lens. Place the camera on a tripod, open the aperture to wide open, focus on a infinity target at least 5000 feet away (the further the better) on the view screen (use the built in magnifier). Place the ground glass on the film rail and check the taking lens focus with the shutter locked open on B with a locking cable release or on T. Adjust the focusing screen height to correct any focus error. Next focus on a target that is the marked minimum focus distance on the camera. Set the target by measuring from the film plane to the target. Check the focus on both the focus screen and taking lens. Lens are rarely their marked focal length but are close. Lens cells can be matched so that two lens are within .1mm of one another. The greater the difference between the viewing lens and the taking lens the greater the focus error at close differences. A .1mm difference at 4 feet will likely be an inch or less, a 3mm difference will start showing focused distance error at 10 to 15 feet. If the lens are mismatched as described in post 5 then set the focus screen for accurate focus at the distance range you plan to use the most.

Depends on the shutter design. Some apertures will bind at the extreme ends of travel so a stop pin or screw was used to prevent it. Some makers use a stop pin to limit aperture travel as the setting beyond the pin is unusable and this prevents the photographer from accidentally going out of range. As long as the aperture works smoothly don't worry about it. Stops are not difficult to install if you need them.

Pressure while turning is all that is necessary.

Many will use a hollow drain stopper that will fit the trim ring without touching the glass. I use the end of a rubber strap wrench. Even pressure helps. A little nail polish remover or light weight oil along the outer edge of the trim ring may help in removing it. Thread locker- nail polish remover; corrosion- oil.

I've accidentally opened the camera back fully in a bright sunlit room and only fogged the last two frames. I've opened film in a darkened room where one could barely see the outline of their hand after 10 minutes will no ill effect on the film but I kept the film away from the light source. A dim room that would require a 30 minute to 1 hour exposure time at f1 will not ruin a film in 5 to 10 minutes, a room that requires a 5 second exposure at f2.8 will fog a film in 5 minutes beyond use.

This is the equivalent of a #8 Wratten filter. The lens contrast + the filter resulted in too high of contrast for the auto setting on the labs scanner. Film+filter+lens+developer= a given result. If you have the negatives look at them on a light box to see if there is detail in the deep shadows and bright highlights if so rescan the negatives yourself or ask the lab to rescan them manually. Use a weaker filter next time or no filter a #3 or #4 Wratten equivlent.

Are your posted examples Lab Scans or pictures of the negatives. What grade (Wratten equivalent) is the Series 7 yellow filter? Lens contrast + filter = high contrast negative = hard to scan negatives.

With B&W I've had to increase the amount of PhotoFlo per 16 ounce of water to eliminate water spots depending on where I lived at the time. I've read a short rinse, 30 seconds, in photoflo after the stabilizer is safe for color but I've never used it as I do very little color and the ones I did did not have drying marks.