thirteenthumbs

Correction, its a CF not SD.

Yes as hardware is the slot the card plugs into and the wires/plugs that connect it to the motherboard or USB port. The card works in camera and the computer reads the card when the camera is connected to the computer so the camera is providing the access when connected to the computer. I have a ScanDisk Ultra 8 SD in my D300. The only thing that changes is the internal chip in the card not the external housing or interface contacts. The work computer needs an updated driver (firmware) for the newer card. The Windows diagnostics won't hurt anything either and may help.

This freeware program Download Driver Booster - The best free Nvida, AMD, Intel & Dell driver update software for Windows 7 & above. will check and download/install driver updates as needed. Win 10 should do it but they occasionally do not have the current drivers in the Windows database. I have occasionally found generic drivers on my computers as the correct driver was not in the Windows database. There are built in diagnostics in Windows starting back in Vista and Win 7 to correct errors in the system. They are in run from an Administrator Command Prompt (also called Windows Power Shell), run order with correct syntax sfc /scannow System File Checker (sfc) this will scan and repair system files if needed DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth Description: What is DISM? Used to repair an image: How to use DISM command-line utility to repair a Windows 10 image I'm betting the problem is the USB controller driver that handles the card reader is at fault or does not have the correct code for the type of card you are using. Run sfc followed by dism and repeat sfc if a failure occurred in the first pass of sfc. P.S. There is a free utility from Intel that updates all Intel drivers on ones computer. Intel® Driver Update Utility

The problem is with the PC. It may need driver updates or the OS fixed/reinstalled. What OS is on the PC? What is the make/model of the PC?

The spots do not appear black in the sample posted and derekcou does not state they are black, he does state they are dark. On my monitor the spots are a zone 3 gray. You appear to be assuming blank spots on the film, I am not. Filtering the fixer eliminated the problem in one instance. If continued filtering results in images free of similar defects then it is contaminates in the chemical.

Fixer removes unexposed silver halides from film. Unexposed sliver halides are off white/cream colored. Once dissolved in fixer they remain off white/cream colored until the fixer has been left in light long enough to expose them. In a dark brown or amber jug it might take days to expose the dissolved silver halides. I use plastic bottles similar in color to milk jugs, filter the fixer before pouring back into the storage bottle and the bottle does not discolor. Upon pouring the used fixer into a milk jug and sitting outside for the water to evaporate off the jug turned dark grey/black after 8 to 12 hours of sunlight. I did not time it. The pro lab I was using put me onto the redeposited silver halides in my negatives which were small white spots that could be seen under a loupe. White/cream colored prints/scans as dark grey or black. Test it for yourself.

Film loading on the reels is the problem. If the film was touching itself or something else like the center column or tank there would be no image, just a bluish/white blob where the contact was. What is happening is the film is buckling and reducing the space between the rounds on the reel limiting the chemical flow in those areas. Refix the film as suggested in post #3. Practice loading the reel(s) with an uncut roll of film examining the reel from a side view to verify the space between the rounds of film is equal throughout the reel.

In addition to wattage the replacement element will need to be of the same design as the original to fit into the processor and heat properly. Verify that the problem is the element not the thermostat/temperature probe or power supply. A faulty temperature probe can be turning the thermostat off prematurely, a defective relay may not be supplying power to the element. A heating element should read 10 to 25 ohms depending on the equipment it is in. The CPA and CPP share the same instruction manual, only the CPP2 service manual shows up in a search. http://luigipasto.com/files/documents/jobocpp2servicemanual.pdf

Developer, if reused, can pick up contaminates but is less likely to cause problems.

Does the tech filter the fixer between uses? If not take a funnel and coffee filter(s) with you when you go to the lab, put a filter in the funnel, pour the fixer through the filter/funnel into a graduate large enough to hold the volume of fixer needed for the processing then use the filtered fixer for fixing your film. Residual silver will build up in fixer and redeposit itself onto film, filtering before each use reduces the chances of noticeable size particles redepositing on the film.

Putting a developer at the top of a list is Marketing. I never took anything that store told me for fact except the total of the transaction.

I'm the opposite. I find the everything to all scanners Vuescan to be mediocre and Silverfast AI superior but will take Vuescan over Silverfase SE. Good scanning is an art and like good photography takes practice. Take a good negative and make an auto reference scan of 600 to 1200 dpi. Turn the auto off and adjust 1 control only 10% and make a scan, compare to the original. Change that control another 10% and repeat the scan/compare. Reset it to the starting point then repeat for the next control. Once each control has been used start with 5% changes using 2 controls the 3 controls. This may take 12 to 18 hours to complete but when finished it will take very little time to adjust for a unknown film.

You will likely have to mount a cable release socket to the lens board with a flat bar at the base that presses on the shutter release when the cable is pressed as the cable end will likely slip off the release.

Yes that is a PC socket and a factory standard screw in the release with a slot for the hook link used in conjunction with a solenoid.

and the Pro photographer that worked at the local camera store where I traded said (according to Kodak) T Max was a Kodak trade name, the T Max developer had no relation to T Max films.

Please post a picture of the shutter/release. Solenoids could be mounted to any 2x3, 3x4, 4x5 or larger camera that the use of a flash synchronizer was employed.

The bar code decoder that was available online to determine what film is ancient history. That is the film orange mask in the blank area between frames and sprocket holes.

Anything on the other side of the film such as a bar code?

Ed is correct, its a microscope adapter. http://www.cameramanuals.org/hasselblad/hasselblad_guide.pdf pdf page 29.

What type of packaging is it in? 35mm canister/cassettes? Roll film? Sheet film? 8mm movie? 16mm movie? glass plates? NO clue-post picture of it.

Yep, when all else fails read and follow the equipment instructions. :D

I use JOBO for 4x5, have the reels for 120 but prefer to use a stainless steel tank and reel for 120. Many threads in the past that dealt with problems with Patterson tanks was the user left the center column out which caused a light leak. JOBO requires the center column to work properly also. If you are putting the center column in, filling the tank with enough chemicals to completely cover the film and reel then before cutting the roll of film reinstall it on the reel or examine the film on the reel when you remove it at the end of processing look at the side of the reel against a light source. The film should have equal distance between the turns from outer to inner. If the space is not equal between the film throughout the reel you are either misloading it or the reel is defective.

The aperture shape should remain consistent throughout the aperture range. The aperture blades are an arc with a pin on each end but on opposite sides of the blades with one end, usually the one closest to the mount, fixed and the side facing the front of the lens on a movable ring. Each pin pivots in a hole in the fixed or moveable ring. The fact that the shape changes suggest that a pin is bent, broken, or out of its hole. It may work for a while but will likely give problems in the future. The uneven shape of the opening will affect the light reaching the film or sensor in a digital camera. I have not shot with a defective aperture so I cannot describe what effect you will see on the negative but I suspect uneven exposure.

It might have a color shift to cyan but should be OK otherwise. Expose at EI 200/260 (+2/3 to 1 stop more) for extra density/exposure insurance.

I routinely sync with a second hand and time 1 second and 1/2 second shutter speeds. If I take the time to test with an optical test I'm off no more than .2 seconds on a 1 second speed. Tolerance at these two speeds is 30% or 1/3 stop either side of the specified speed, for 1 second its.8 to 1.2 seconds ; for 1/2 second its .4 to .6 seconds. A sweep movement is much easier to use than a step movement. If the shutter closes with the second hand within the width of the second hand of the second mark after release then the speed is reasonably good, 1/2 the width of the second hand at the mid point between second marks from shutter release the 1/2 second speed is reasonably good. This a a general quick test. A shutter in need of a CLA will run 1.5 seconds or more at 1 second, .75 second or more at 1/2 second which is easy to see. If the 1 second and 1/2 second speeds are off the other speeds will be off also. The delay timer on a shutter uses gear travel and pallet tension to time the speeds. All speeds up to 1/125 second uses the delay mechanism to time the speeds with full gear travel and maximum pallet tension used for 1 second. Free travel of the blade controller and shutter blades as pulled closed by the main cocking lever and spring is between 1/125 and 1/250 second so speeds above 1/125 are accomplished by adding booster springs to force the controller/blades closed sooner. The blade controller moves about a 30° arc from full closed to full open.