thirteenthumbs

Squeegees are fine for glass windows. I do not use them on film nor can I recommend their use, too great a risk of damage.

Take a look at the camera manual available at http://www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_pellix/cannon_pellix.pdf On pdf page 16 it shows a cover over the film takeup spool that lifts up like the camera back. Familiarize yourself with the camera via the manual before opening it again. Be careful of the shutter curtain.

Unprocessed film has to be handled in total darkness to prevent fogging. A darkroom safe light will fog your film. The test to determine if its safe to handle film is to sit in the room with the light off, door closed for 5 minutes then hold your hand 6 inches from your face. If you cannot see your hand then its safe to handle film. Be sure to turn a full circle while trying to see your hand. Is your room dark enough after all? If not and a trace of light is coming from one one direction only and its very dim turn your back to it and hold the camera close to you if you cannot block the light source. Now in total darkness open the camera back and slowly advance the wind lever while feeling the film on the takeup with your finger. You should feel a slight bump where the end of the film is, it may still have tape on it. Lift up on the end of the film and press the rewind button and pull the film out of the camera holding the film by the edges as much as possible once you have it started out of the camera. If you tried to wind too far on a short roll you would have encountered a wind that was difficult to advance. I think the tape that secures the film to the spool in the cassette came loose. Camera model, factory film or reloaded cassette info will help if further is needed.

click the tar get line in post 12, its a link to their listing of the Pur Clasic faucet filter.

I sometimes get similar spots if I don't filter my water. Target : Expect More. Pay Less. works just fine for eliminating them.

I based my comments on a Hugo Meyer lens. Hugo Meyer is a German company. I had forgotten about B&J playing on names in hopes of boosting sales. Still a 90mm f6.8 will have a 80+ angle of view. How good it is will depend on the quality of the elements, if they are matched, accurately spaced and most of all how its been treated since it came off the production line. Schneider Angulon specs Data Page for reference.

Those are water spots from meninerals dissolved in the water used to mix the chemicals. Mix the chemicals with filtered water (Pur or similar) or distilled water. Follow the directions in the C-41 kit, your last step should be the Stabilizer, no rinse afterwards.

Probably a Gauss design that will cover 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 and maybe 4x5 with soft corners. What is the smallest f number/largest aperture ? Any trade name? Probably from the 1930's to late 1940's. A Lens Collectors Vade Mecum does not list a 3.5 inch/90mm wide angle lens, it does list 3.125 inch and 4 inch f6.3 along with longer focal lengths that have a 105° angle of view. Probably on par with 90mm Angulon, Optar, and others of the era. Put it on a camera and ask it how good it is optically, it will not lie.

The last of the Afga film made before Afga Gavaert closed the photography division was sold off in 2005 or 2006, it is labled Agfapan APX. The Agfa film made by license from Agfa Photo, the reresucted company, is labled Agfaphoto APX. These are easier to distinguish than Kodak films. Agfa Photo is also responcible for the reintroduction of Rodinal.

The Agfaphoto APX films currently available are a different formula than the earlier Agfa APX and require different development times. B&W Film Developing Times | The Massive Dev Chart

Powdered chemicals should be mixed and allowed to sit for at least 12 hours before use. Tech Pub J78 http://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/uat/files/wysiwyg/pro/chemistry/j78.pdf tells you all you need to know about D76. Read Delelopment Times on page 2 of the PDF. 1 135-36 roll of film= 1 120 roll of film= 1 8x10 sheet of film= 80 square inches of film. Fix for 5 to 10 minutes for standard fixer, 3 to 6 minutes for rapid fixer. T Max and Ilford Delta films should be fixed in rapid fixer, increae times in standard fixer. Fixer can be reused and should be filtered between uses to prevent redepositing residual silver onto the fresh bath of film being processed. A coffee filter in a funnel works well for this.

P.S. try APUG.org if you don't get the answers here you need.

Nice to know its Normal. It has to do with the electronic design and brand of components used. If it gets louder suspect a problem.

Sorry I linked to the site. Not reading the page header opening paragraph and jumping to the manual link is the problem. Makes me wonder what you'll miss once ouy get the manual. :( TO ACCESS THE MANUALS, USE THE LOGIN INFORMATION PROVIDED IN THE GRAY BOX BELOW http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/images/pwdbox.gif

Rolleiflex service manual is a free download at Favorite Classics / Free Camera Repair Manuals I haven't had an opportunity to work on one nor am I looking for one. Study the manual then decide if you want to attempt a DIY.

I cannot find a picture of your camera model that shows the back. The G and G QD have a film window that allows you to see what film is in the camera. The light seal fails on these windows on all brands of cameras and causes a light leak onto the film. Put some opaque tape over the window and see if the leak goes away. Place a negative with the light leak over the film gate, emulsion side toward the lens, top of the image to the bottom of the camera and observe where the leak is. Post a picture of the negative for further help.

If it still humms after cleaning the contacts try a different memory card and a different battery, 1 at a time. Consider having it serviced or use it as is. If the humming gets louder it needs serviced or replaced.

The lower the ISO rating for the film the more light that has to reach the film to expose it either by longer shutter times or wider apertures or both. The higher the ISO rating of the film the less light that to reach the film to properly expose it either by smaller apertures or faster shutter speeds. The Sunny 16 rule basically stated that a shutter speed of 1/film speed at f16 will give an accurate exposure. Assuming your lighting is equal to this statement then 100 ISO film will be properly exposed at 1/125 (the closest shutter speed on many cameras) at f16. Equivalent exposure for f4 will be 1/2000, for f2.8 the shutter speed will be 1/4000. The same lighting with ISO 400 film will be 1/500 @ f16. Equivalent exposure for f4 is 1/8000, for f2.8 the shutter speed will need to be faster than most cameras are capable of so the use of a neutral density filter will be necessary.

Eliminate the common before heading to the repair shop. The service tech gets called out to the customer site, customer says I can't get this equipment to work, I've tried everything, its dead. Technician leave me with it and I'll see what I can do. Customer goes to the office, tech turns the power switch on, the equipment powers up, the tech verifies the the equipment operates properly, goes to the office and hands the customer a $150 service call bill and tells him the equipment is fine. Didital logic works on 5VDC. I have no clue what voltage the sensor needs or the memory card needs. The battery voltage supplied by the battery has to be changed to match the requirements of the components. There are several ways of doing that and the battery size is designed to allow for long usage so you don't have to change batteries in the middle of a shoot. Also check the back for abnormal heat. Does the humming stay constant or does it get louder the longer its on?

I looked up the manual and it says 8-33VDC power so how are you powering it? I would start by cleaning all accessible contacts with a pencil eraser, metal polish or contact cleaner. Recessed contacts such as a card slot should be cleaned with an aerosol contact cleaner.

+1 for the Epsons.

A stop bath is not absolutely necessary for film. You can pour out the developer and immediately pour in the fixer BUT you will be hard pressed to get the number of rolls of per volume of fixer stated by the fixer manufacturer. This will not be a problem if you use your fixer 1 shot. I use a water rinse between developer and fixer. I fill and dump the tank 2 times between developing and fixer. I have been doing this since 1977 and have never had a problem with fixer exhausting prematurely. I use HC110 currently, Xtol, Microdol X, Ronidal, FG7 previously over the years. I use Kodak rapid fixer currently, Ilford rapid fix and Kodak powdered fixer in the past. The last batch of Kodak Rapid fixer I mixed was anout 16 months ago, have processed about 20 rolls of film in it and it still works as well as the day it was mixed. Your results may vary depending on how much film you process and your water supply. I filter the tap water through a Pur filter for mixing stock chemicals and anything important. A stop bath for prints is necessary as you want the development to stop immediately.

The commercial lab I used (The Darkroom, now history) stated they could pull or push C-41 10% as that was the limit. They wanted the film shot at 1/2 of box speed as the extra density was not needed and it slowed productivity.

HC110 at 65°F for reduced fog. What ISO/EI was the film exposed at?

I was using a Microtek 8700 Pro and Silverfast Ai6 at the time your Epson was the current model. You will have to do some experimenting with the settings to get the best scan possible. Use Professional mode, disregard the BS about 3rd party testing and the "true" resolution of the scanner and set the scan resolution to the optical limit of the scanner as stated by the manufacturer which is 4800dpi for your scanner. Select the type film you are scanning, and select 48 bit RGB. This gives you the largest optical scan the scanner is capable of producing and the most information to do adjustments with. Now in the Configuration window Color tab select Color Control, ICM, or No Color Correction. In Color control the continuous auto exposure will auto expose on every preview reseting any correction you have set for a particular image. Setting changes are shown on the preview but are frequently different in the final scan so deselect this option unless you are batch scanning at auto exposure and will accept what it gives you. ICM allows you to select a specific color profile sRGB for the web scans, Adobe RGB or one of the other for a larger color space. No color correction is a flat scan at the selected Auto Exposure Level. The Auto Exposure Level will allow you to adjust for over exposed or under exposed negatives and slides. The three options in the Color tab of the configuration window, the histogram, tone, image adjustment, color palette and auto exposure on the scan setup window is what you have to play with to get the best scan. Start with a known good negative or slide and make a good 600 dpi-1200dpi scan at scanner default Color control, continuous auto exposure deselected, and use this as your reference scan. A 5% change in a settings is noticeable in a scan, call it a fine tune adjustment; a 10% change in a setting makes major changes in a image, call it a coarse adjustment. All adjustments interact with one another so small changes are usually all that is needed. Now take your base scan preview and open the Histogram , you will see a graph type display. The base line is film base + developing/processing fog called fb+f, 0 is pure black and 255 is pure white. Any rise above the base line is image information. An image with no whites or bright highlights may scan with the highlights ending at 190 to 200. Above the base line at 255 is over developed unless the scene contains a bright reflection such as the sun on chrome, above the base line at 0 is over exposure and not much can be done about it. Setting the sliders to the point where information rises above the base line puts the darkest tone and lightest tone at the edge of the spectrum and the best tonal expansion available on that image. Its worth the 12 to 18 hours it takes to scan, adjust scan, compare, evaluate with all the adjustments so that you will know what does what. You only have to learn it once even if you switch scanning software as the adjustments are similar in other software. They still have not fixed the upload problem with Firefox so I cannot post an example. I'm ready to die for the night and am not going to add another browser just for this site.