thirteenthumbs

I would start by downloading the service manual to my computer. Several copies can be opened in Adobe reader at one time. Remove the covers as needed. Position a smeared print/piece of paper in the paper path and determine which roller is causing the problem. Open copy 1 of the manual to the transport servicing section then open additional copies to the sections called for in copy 1 disassembly procedures. Option B: send/take it to an Epson repair service shop.

Is the smudge and streak ink, grease or rubber? Ink came from the print head at some point, grease comes from a failed sealed bearing, rubber will come from a deteriorating or dragging roller. When passing paper through with the paper feed do the streaks appear? yes= transport, no= print head. I extensively trouble shot a 4800 for missing inks, ewasted it when cleaning did not solve the problem and air pockets were consistently in the supply lines, bad ink pumps. The head should be easily removed from the transport mechanism and if careful realignment will not be needed as the original position can be reestablished. Once the head is off the transport then the rollers should be easy to access for cleaning. I still have a copy of the service manual , SEIJ04008 in the lower right corner covering from the 4400 to the 4880C if you have specific questions.

Another late night misread that turned out ballpark correct or is it football stadium correct in your part of the world? I too use common binders from office stores and general retail stores.

Ink dries up on the paper path side of the print head platen and will transfer onto prints and the paper path. Head cleaning does not get rid of it. Fold a layer of paper towels to fit into the head transport path, soak it with 90% Ispropyl Alcohol, unlock the print head and slide it over the wet towel, let sit 15 to 30 minutes then slide the head over other towels until the head leaves no ink trace on the towel. Now clean all accessible rollers with the alcohol. A factory service manual is available at Epson 4880 C Service Manual

Print File | Archival Supplies | Photo Storage Products 35-7BXW (in either 25 pack or 100 pack).

Best advice is Don't. I have some cheap remanufactured in my XP610 and they are junk. I doubt printer profiling software could correct the color error, black text is OK but not as sharp as Epson inks. Refill inks usually fade faster than Epson inks, may damage print heads or cause other problems. In past post Inkjetmall Welcome to InkJetMall got a strong recommendation. I use Printer Ink Refill Kits, Bulk Ink, Cartridges, and Toner -InkSupply as their inks are very good. I had an 870, R200 that died using Ink Supply refilable cartridges, the printers quit sensing any cartridge installed. I have a C66 that refuses to die and a 2200 photo that I use only Epson cartridges in as I rarely use it. Post the manufacturer of the cartridges you are considering for an opinion on them.

V700/V750 are the same basic scanner. Their holders may work on the V800/V850. All of these models scan the full width of the scanner glass/lid. The V500/V550/V600 scan a single path down the center of the glass/lid. While a V700 holder may fit the bed it will not align the scan material with the transparency adapter in the lid.

I realized that the deep burgundy color may be the RemJet that needs to be removed after posting the previous.

The memory card is some form of solid state electronics. Solid state electronics can fail, heal itself, and work for a period of time afterwards. Solid state electronics are layers of material, usually treated silicone, fused together in layers that separate (failure) then fuse together (self heal). A strong magnetic field, radio frequency (rf), or similar electronic interference may have caused the problem. The problem may have been a glitch in the camera. One can only speculate.

SFC ECN-II in C41 at 85°F scanned as Generic positive film Scanned as generic color negative film Processed film has a heavy cast similar to a deep burgundy.

Corrupted card, can occur from deleting photos and taking new photos repeatedly or using a card reader to transfer the photos. Try connecting the camera direct for the photo transfer. Transfer all photos to a backup medium then format the card in camera. Replace the card if the problem continues.

ECN-II films either do not have a remjet backing or it is dye base that washes off in a prewash or in development. No extra steps needed.

Tetenal C-41 Press Kit (Powder, to Make 1L) T109306 B&H Photo Use a standard C-41 developing kit but process at 80°F to 85° F. Processing at 100°f to 105°F results in very weak colors to faint images. Want 3 sealed rolls of 200, 1 unsealed roll of 200, and 2 sealed rolls of 100?

What make/model computer if you want help fixing it.

Adobe registration servers recognize valid license codes of all Adobe products. If you registered the product once before then reregistering it again after a reinstall will be quick and painless, first time registration might be a problem. I run CS5 on my editing computer and PS7 on this late night machine. CS2 is still installed on the unused XP machine. I have not had any trouble registering after a reinstall whether I used the suspend feature or not, CS5 has the option to unregister the product so that it can be reassigned to another person. I also have Elements 11 but prefer PS7 over it.

I don't know where you get that XP will not work online, it will. Firefox browser will run on XP. Microsoft released a patch for the latest ransomware attack. Your licensed internet security suite should keep you protected. All you have to do is connect the internet to the computer via lan cable, dialup, WiFi, then click on the register in CS2 and the code to turn off the timer will be installed by Adobe taking all of a minute or two, even going bare without any security its highly unlikely you will get hacked. Surfing the web on the XP machine without internet security is another thing entirely. I ran CS2 until I updated my Win 8 machine to Win 10 where it started having problems. Adobe offered a free download of CS2 for Win 8 and 8.1 to registered users, its buried in their downloads somewhere. A CS5 upgrade will install and run on Win 10 and your CS2 license code will work with it (proof of previous version). Vuescan supports 24 Nikon scanners Nikon Scanner Drivers | VueScan and it likely will run your scanner on newer operating systems.

I would have told the shop owner I will remove the Paypal claim once the issues are resolved. The handle failure is common. The retaining straps dry out and break from lack of attention. Sometimes the handle itself breaks. I drill out the rivets from the bottom side of the view hood, save the flat washers, make new straps from leather scraps I get at my local Tandy Leather, then attach them with #2 brass screws 3/4 inch long and brass nuts with the original washers then trim the screws flush with the nuts once installed. The camera serial number is stamped in/on the inside of the view hood door behind the view hood. Post the serial number for proper identification and approximate date of manufacture. Graflex - Google Drive for operating instructions and repair information for Graflex SLR's. Find me at Graflex.org helpboard as 45pss. Get some Golden Heavy Body Artist Paint #1040 Carbon Black and an economy fine bristle brush. Dilute the paint 25% to 50% with water and paint over the pin holes and weak spots in 2 to 3 layers to make the bellows light tight. Paint the bellows on the inside.

Find and use paper black as your starting point. Place a piece of unexposed, processed film of the same type in the enlarger and focus the grain. Set the timer for 2 seconds, set the aperture on the enlarging lens to f8~f11. Expose a series of 2 inch wide strips across the length of the paper. Process the paper and dry. When dry find the strip where the paper goes black and you cannot see any strip after that. Back lighting the test paper helps. Count the strips to the final black, this is your exposure time. A correctly exposed/developed negative will produce a good test print, if not adjust your exposure or development of the film. A 1/3 stop increase in exposure and or a 10% to 15% increase or decrease in development will work 90% of the time. Shooting so that negatives print well at paper black saves a lot of time when printing.

Developer temperature and agitation technique have as much or more to do with grain as the film type. Constant rotation with equal time in each direction works well for fine grain as does two turns after each inversion cycle reversing direction every other inversion. Xtol will give finer/smoother grain than D76. Some films show less grain if given an extra stop of exposure.

Xtol will last 4 to 6 months in any air tight container you choose to store it in. Xtol turns pale yellow as it dies. I used it 1:1. I mixed it to a 1 gallon final solution for easier storage and used the proper ratio of concentrated stock to package stock without any adverse effects. I switched to HC110 for economy as the Xtol was dying long before I used it.

I assume you are referring to the rear standard, the bellows are bonded to the standard. Get some Mostenblockers Liftoff Tape, Label, and Adhesive Remover Motsenbockers 22 oz. Tape, Label and Adhesive Remover-407-01 - The Home Depot Saturate the bellows at the standard on all sides and let sit overnight to a few days with repeated applications until the bellows will separate easily from the standard. Once separated wash the bellows with Isopropyl Alcohol. Use contact cement to reattach the bellows when finished. The bellows are the Outer covering of vinyl or leather, pleat stays of thin single layer cardboard/card stock, and the inner lining. If the bellows separate glue the back together using contact cement applied to one surface of the pleat stay and press in place on the outer covering while the glue is wet, apply another layer of glue and press the inner lining in place. Other adhesive removers such as Goo Gone or GoofOff leave a difficult to remove residue. Lacquer thinner may dissolve the old glue but will likely damage the outer covering of the bellows.

Yes jister Joe showed how to tear down a 2x3 Pressman. If you click on the 4x5 link you will see a D tore down but the picture is too small to be of any use. After a gooooooogle search a picture of the C showed the fixed back attached by 4 screws. These are simple cameras. The back either separates from the main body or it is a molded part of the main body with a hole large enough for the rotating film plane to fit into. The 4 screws with one hidden by the focus panel hold a slotted piece of metal that is close to one end. If you remove one of them you will find a blunt end possibly with a nylon bushing or a lip edge. A blunt end with or without a bushing will be used to keep the film plane centered in the opening. A lipped end will fit over a flange edge on the focus panel to hold the focus panel in place. The view hood is removable, likely by the thumb screw at the top of the focus panel/ view hood. With the view hood removed the ground glass is held in place by two spring clips, one each side in portrait orientation, with each spring clip held by two screws. Removing the ground glass will allow access to the inside of the back. Internal screws holding the back in place can be easily felt or the bellows retaining clips can be seen. The holes next to the visible slots suggest the back frame is held by screws from inside the body. Shine a light between the bellows and body to see them if they exist. The bellows will need to be extended also. There is no service information available on line that I can find. Tower Press is a Busch Pressman Rebadged. You definitely have some reforming work to get the latch fixed. I think this project is beyond your skill level, send it to a tech capable of doing the repair. I'm no longer servicing cameras.

When film comes out blank it is one of two things, post #2 covers one of them and the other is the developer has died. If you're certain that you did not fix before developer hold the film at an angle to a bright light source such as the sun and slowly turn it from width 90° to the light source to edge 90° to the light source. If you see a shadow/ghost image then it was definitely the developer going bad. I had it happen with Xtol. It took a very close inspection in full sun with the width of the film at 20° to 30° to the sun. I'm not familiar with Pyro but a double run of one part of the developer of a two part development process will not properly develop the film.

Busch Camera

Screen shot of sfc DISM progression bar does not display at first, when it does depends on the system being checked.