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norayr

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  1. norayr
    here it is mentioned about hs10 camera that >The HS10 offers 4 color modes: Standard, Chrome, Black & White and Sepia. The first offers an accurate, natural color response, while the Chrome mode emulates the bright, vivid colors of Fujis legendary Fujichrome film. This produces very attractive images that do have a Fujichrome look to them, but we would reccomend that most users stick with the standard mode or shoot RAW images if you want to process them for a particular look. HS10 is a very old camera, even older than my t410. So my guess was right. Chrome mode was for emulating fujichrome film. But how does that work? Is it a LUT? Is it an icc profile?
  2. norayr
    by the way, this is what the manual of the camera mentions: >Vivid contrast and color. Choose for vivid shots of flowers or enhanced greens and blues in landscapes.
  3. norayr
    yes, this 'chrome' setting is only on very old cameras, as i understand before they even started to use 'provia' or 'astia' color profiles. and probably only on point and shoot cameras.
  4. norayr started following film or camera or development problem? never seen something like that. and what is the 'chrome' color option on older fuji cameras?
  5. norayr
    what you say is probably true about 'classic chrome' preset that exists in modern fuji cameras. but many older, and inexpensive ones had this 'chrome' preset. i know current color profiles got a lot of attention and made wisely. i wonder if this is true about the older 'chrome' profile which i guess appeared even before fuji started to add 'provia', 'sensia' and other profiles to their more serious cameras.
  6. norayr
    hello, my fuji t410 has this color mode, called 'chrome'. it is described in the manual here: >vivid contrast and color. choose for vivid shots of flowers or enhanced greens and blues in landscapes. that is the only description of the mode i was able to find on the internet. as i understand later fuji in better cameras introduced astia, provia, velvia, acros, and more later classic chrome, pro negative presets in their cameras. i guess people in fuji realized that the colours from their digital cameras aren't as good, as when taken on fuji film stock. and they made an effort, were serious about color science, made these presets. may it be that the setting 'chrome' in older cameras was a step in that direction? may it be it had to emulate some, perhaps imaginary chrome, i. e. color transparency film? thank you.
  7. norayr
    thank you for replies, everybody. she said, the developer she used this time was Adox XT-3, and she diluted it wrongly. she said, she changed the developer now, and no more problems. so the developer version is probably the right one.
  8. norayr
    hello, first of all, happy to be back here, because my account stoppend working and did not work for years. i guess maybe it started to work with the website update? i see it looks updated. so, anyway, my friend shot a roll of bw filw with my Pentax 67, then she developed the film, and two of the frames have these strange holes with black areas surrounding them. have you ever seen something like that? what can cause it, what is that? i only shot 2 rolls with this camera yet, and i did not notice any problem so far.
  9. norayr started following Phil_Light
  10. norayr
    >Looks like insufficient agitation during processing to me. >I wouldn't even attempt any colour processing without some sort of temperature controlled rotary machine to help out. The timing, agitation and temperature are too critical. hm, thank you. may be we still have a lab which has machine to process MF in our city, but they always use old/expired chemistry, so i would trust them even less than myself. but thank you, i'll think of agitation. i think i did everything like described in ultrafine c41 kit's manual. will try to test the scanner more.
  11. norayr
    hm, i think negatives are clear. i can only see pixels. not sure the following photos illustrate that, because there's moire and the phone too. IMG_20200623_221905
  12. norayr
    >something strange in the sky, some vertical lines. some horisontal lines, of course.
  13. norayr
    looks like b/w negative doesn't have the same problem 2019-12-03-0019.jpg
  14. norayr
    hello, I shot my first colour negative rolls with Mamiya RB67, the camera works fine, I shot peel apart with it, and it has no flaws. The films were developed by me, I believe the chemicals was fresh, at least I noticed these problems only on MF scans, not on 35mm scans. Also, 35mm were scanned with different scanner. this is fuji reala 100, expired of course. Scanned with Canoscan 9000F mark ii, and betterscanning holder with anti newton rings glass: you see, there is something strange in the sky, some vertical lines. this is a flickr link where you can zoom in to the image or download the full size scan: 2020-02-07-0003_mirrored.jpg this is Fuji PRO 400H: same look in the skies. flickr link: 2020-02-09-0007_sm.jpg What can it be? Did I mess up with development? Is it scanning problem? thank you!
  15. norayr
    hey, so i have an update. i bought 6x7 slide mounts, and those are small to fit my mamiya rb67 transparency frames. firstly, they crop the existing image a bit. secondly, i need to cut some part of the exposed film to fit it because inside the frame there are things that connect two sides of the frame together, and film prevents those to lock. so for 6x7 slides one really needs 6x8 frames. may be some unexposed part of those frames will be visible inside the frame, which i doubt, but definitely you won't need to cut your frames to fit in slide holders.
  16. norayr
    hello, i have got a b&w kodak portra paper, but it is for ra-4 process, i. e. it has dyes instead of silver. however, i don't have ra-4 chemistry, i have dektol. i know, c-41 film is possible to process with d-76, so i guess, may be that ra-4 paper is possible to develop with dektol? so, i actually don't even understand, which side of the paper i need to expose. with usual b/w paper i understand. so this paper has two sides - one dark and one later becomes the back of the image with "kodak" text on it. so when i printed on dark side - nothing happened, but when i printed on the white side, i guess, for some time i saw the picture when the paper was in dektol. and later it disappeared. i was unable to use this paper, but first, i'd like to know - if it's actually possible to use this paper with dektol and regular fixer. - which side i need to print to. thank you.
  17. norayr
    hey, people! thanks for your responces. so i took my b+w filter, and rotated near the laptop screen. i have noticed that it cuts most/all of the polarized light at the position when b+w marking is at the top. so now i know.
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