thirteenthumbs

<p>A CPE2 uses a relay to switch motor directions. The motor contacts burn after a while preventing good contact resulting low/no power to the motor.<br> Jobo, like most other manufactures, use similar design and components from one model to another.<br> Jobo use a DC motor for drum rotation. What you are experiencing is motor stall. Motor stall can be caused by worn drive gears which bind putting extra load on the motor. Such a bind should cause a motor hum when stalled or blow a fuse and can cause motor burn out (least likely). Worn brushes in the motor can cause the problem as well as a dirty commentator, the copper contacts on the motor the brushes make contact with (very likely). The motor is most likely a sealed unit meaning the motor was designed not to be disassembled but it can be done with care. The relay and motor power supply should also be suspect as the likely cause.<br> The motor power supply will be a step down transformer converting 120V/220V to 18V - 24V AC. The secondary of the transformer is connected to a bridge rectifier and basic capacitor filter then to the relay or motor switching. Replacements for defective components should not be difficult to obtain from electronic supply stores if Jobo no longer supplies them.</p>

<p>Its a manual feed system. The holders have a notch at each frame position. You can insert the holder and feed from either side of the scanner. Push the film holder to the next frame for scanning, push or pull the film holder from the scanner depending on its position and frame you are on for removal.</p>

<p>ISO 400 and slower B&W film in the 10 to 15 year out of date range stored at room temperature will have an increase in base fog equivalent to 1/6 -1/4 stop depending on how high the temperature average.<br> Treat as new.</p>

<p>Wollensak rebadged the Raptar to Optar when supplied to Graflex Corp. and rebadged the Rapax shutter Graphex when supplied to Graflex Corp. Follow the service manual instructions, http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/GraphexShutterService.pdf ,without cutting corners and do a full disassembly. Use watch/clock oil or similar oil where oil is called for, use white lithium grease or similar light weight grease where grease is called for. A sheen of oil is all that is needed, a dab of grease about the size of a straight pin head is all that is needed for grease. Too much oil or grease will act like glue and impair the shutter operation. Rub the shutter and aperture blades with extra fine powdered graphite especially the pivot pins.</p> <p>The 135mm Raptar/Optar is in a #2 shutter. </p> <p>The linked manual is for the full flash sync version, the no flash sync version has no flash sync mechanism and the X flash sync version has a simpler but similar flash sync mechanism.</p> <p>Clean the glass with a heavyweight microfiber lens cleaning cloth and your breath.</p> <p>I have serviced several of these shutters. </p>

<p>1. I agree with John on the developing time adjustment, no need to state it twice.<br> 2. I disagree with John on the air space needed for good agitation. True the chemicals do not move around as freely without an air space but they do move sufficiently. The difference in development between air space and no air space is around 1% of total development. A change of 5% in development is just noticeable when wet printing negatives and a 1% might just be detectable with a high end film scanner.<br> 3. Why use the Massive Development Chart as your default reference when the manufacturer information is the same or more accurate and readily available? I use MDC as a start reference when no other information is available for a film/developer combination.<br> http://www.ilfordphoto.com/home.asp<br> http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/201142795941192.pdf<br> http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20114271219521241.pdf<br> http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2010712125850702.pdf<br> </p>

<p>The shutter release is an electromechanical device. When you trip it in the electrical mode a solenoid or magnet is energized pulling or pushing a mechanical lever which trips the shutter. The fact that the shutter release does not travel the full amount in electronic mode says the camera needs a CLA. It may improve with use but don't count on it. As for the "beep" go to http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/documentation.html and download the manual for the exact version of the RZ you have.</p>

<p>Times shorter than 5 minutes are not recommended as they may produce uneven development.<br> Load a scrap roll of film onto the reel for the tank then put it in the tank. Fill the tank with water until the reel is covered by 1/8 inch / 3mm. Pour the water out into a measuring graduate. This is your minimum chemical level for this tank/reel combination. I agree with Peter, fill the tank to its maximum. </p>

<p>Next time around with the same film and camera use 1/60 @ f8 or 1/30 @ f5.6 for the interior shots.</p>

<p>From "A Lens Collectors Vade Mecum" Zeiss serial number list:<br /> © Carl Zeiss, Oberkochen, West Germany.<br /> 1951-1953 500,000-1,100,000</p>