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  1. Hi everyone, I am getting a very strange orange bleed that is visible on the edge of my negatives and scans. https://imgur.com/a/URxVz#0 - these are someone else's images but my problem is identical. I have read it could be light pollution during scanning, but as it's on my negatives I can rule this out. I suspected a light leak, but my understanding is that light leaks should bleach, due to more light hitting the negative, and also be less uniform. Therefore, by process of elimination it must be a development error at my lab? I sent a batch of film off recently, and 2 rolls of Ektar came back with this orange bleed, 1 roll of Ektar was fine, 1 roll of Portra 400 was fine and 2 rolls of black and white were fine - so it's quite random and seems to affect entire rolls and not individual images within a roll. Would be great to hear back from anyone else who has encountered similar problems. All the best.
  2. Exposure Date: 2014:01:09 05:18:46; Make: NIKON CORPORATION; Model: NIKON D40; ExposureTime: 10/600 s; FNumber: f/5; ISOSpeedRatings: 400; ExposureProgram: Manual; ExposureBiasValue: 2/6; MeteringMode: CenterWeightedAverage; Flash: Flash did not fire; FocalLength: 18 mm; FocalLengthIn35mmFilm: 27 mm; Software: Adobe Photoshop 7.0;
  3. Roopokar Creative Studio, a website design and development company in Bangladesh. We are offering high end web development, creative website design, graphic design and 3D animation services all over the world. Please visit: http://www.roopokar.com
  4. I'm developing ECN-2 at home for the first time (I haven't developed any film before), and the developer needs to consistently be at 41 degrees. I have the cinestill TCS-1000 to keep the water in the bucket at a stable temperature but i'm skeptical whether the bottles i'm using to hold each solution will differ in temperature on the inside. For this reason, is it okay to put a metal thermometer directly into each solution to check the temperature?
  5. Hi Everyone! I started to process color negs at home and right away encountered this problem with blue streaks. They are visible after scanning (I've checked if it's not the scanner's fault). They appear only in just a few frames (others are perfect). I developed two films separately and the same problem appears in both of them. I have JOBO CPE2, Fuji Hunt X-Press chemistry, and shoot on 120 Fuji Pro 400H. One negative was pre-soaked in 38temp water following the Fuji Hunt instructions (5min), another film was not pre-soaked, just warmed up dry in the tank on JOBO. What do you think that might be? Thank you in advance for your help!
  6. hello, I shot my first colour negative rolls with Mamiya RB67, the camera works fine, I shot peel apart with it, and it has no flaws. The films were developed by me, I believe the chemicals was fresh, at least I noticed these problems only on MF scans, not on 35mm scans. Also, 35mm were scanned with different scanner. this is fuji reala 100, expired of course. Scanned with Canoscan 9000F mark ii, and betterscanning holder with anti newton rings glass: you see, there is something strange in the sky, some vertical lines. this is a flickr link where you can zoom in to the image or download the full size scan: 2020-02-07-0003_mirrored.jpg this is Fuji PRO 400H: same look in the skies. flickr link: 2020-02-09-0007_sm.jpg What can it be? Did I mess up with development? Is it scanning problem? thank you!
  7. When making cyanotypes, I sometimes haven't had the time to develop/wash my prints immediately after exposure. I then of course keep the exposed print in darkness until I can wash it - so far I've tried waiting a day or two between exposure and washing. But I wonder, is this a problem? Should I just wash the print right away? And if it's not a problem, does anybody have a guess as to how long an exposed print can wait before washing? I haven't experienced any problems so far, however I have noticed that the exposed areas of my unwashed prints turn darker and more blue the longer I wait to develop them, which worries me a bit. After washing though, I don't seem to see any difference when comparing to prints I've washed immediately... Thanks, /Ane
  8. anyone tried and knows good time to process tri-x shot at 1000 iso with d-76. massive dev chart doesn't have the numbers. also, massive dev chart lists the same time: 6.75 for tri-x shot at 400 and 800 with stock solution. but that was off topic. the question is, which time should i use: 8.5 perhaps? p. s. i can explain why i do need this. my l35 camera doesn't have iso setting over than 1000. it has 640, i believe, then 1000. the next edition of the camera has iso 1600 however it doesn't allow to mount the lens filter. so i prefer this version, and max iso i can shoot with it is 1000. this is why.
  9. Hello there. I'm having some problems while developing my black and white film. I'm new at home developing and I developed 5 rolls so far. They all looked good fresh from the development tank but today I was scanning them and I notice theres a general lack of contrast and dark and sometimes light beams of light coming from the sprocket holes. I'm using a 2 roll Paterson tank. I use LC29 as a developer and also Ilford stop bath and fixer. My film is all HP5 at its 400 normal ISO. I develop for 6:30 min, stop bath for 30 seconds and fixer for 5 minutes with a 1 minute prewash before everything. Everything exactly as MassiveChart and Ilford suggests. I agitate 10 seconds at the start of every step and every minute after that. I agitate slowly rotating the tank over itslef and twisting it at the same time. As you will see on the images below theres a general lack of contrast and a lot of foggines... also parts of the images seem more develop than others, apart from the darkness following the sprocket holes.. I did some research and I found that it can be because of a lack of proper agitation (maybe my slow rotating movement is not enough to get fresh developer everywhere so parts gets underexposed) But I also read that the white beams over the sprocket holes can be caused by over agitation so the two solutions seem contradictory. I would highly appreciate any feedback you have to offer as I dont like the idea of keeping "badly developing" rolls of film until finding the solution. Thanks in advance to everyone!
  10. Hi guys, Good day, there. I have been developing my own BW film for some time now, and have recently acquired an old basic enlarger which I want to give a try. Now I have "fixed-up" most things that needed attention, and it is time for the rubber to meet the road. For film, I an inclined to now graduate to D-23 , made at home (vs. Caffenol which I have successfully used till date). The question is, could I use the D-23 for developing silver gelatin based Paper as well? I did not find much resources on the web discussing this, as people rarely seem to be discussing Paper Developers (side note: people have used Caffenol for Paper btw). The consensus, from what I found out, was that normally paper developers tend to be faster acting, and hence will develop films with higher contrast. And here, D-23 seems especially known for producing slow and relatively-lower-contrast negatives. Conversely, thus, a film developer recipe should produce lesser contrast for paper development – which seems to be an undesirable way to go about printing...?! Or not? Please advise. Further, I have found that most Paper Dev recipes require addition of Hydroquinone – which I would need to go out and get from the city center, and I stay far. [Is it a must-add for paper development? And if yes, what could be the alternatives?] At the moment, the priority is just to get my feet wet asap, as I am in the mindset to give this a go. Was going to get Ilford PQ Universal from a local dealer (heard it can also cook films pretty well – some say a little grainier); but he is out of stock, and will get stock in another ten days or so – to far out to start, for me. :D Another conundrum is that I have some really old local-brand sachets of universal film and paper developer at hand, in powder premix form. But they are now so old, that the each sachet has turned into a big solid bricky lump. Should it be worth it to break them, and brew in some warm water (instead of making some developer)? [Also, they also seem to prove a point that paper and film developers can be the same.] While on the subject, how about D76 for Printing? I know I am asking too many things at once, and going all over the place. Kindly excuse me for the same, in lieu of my excitement and tangentially limited options. Eagerly looking forward to your kind and able guidance! Best regards, Paresh
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