hapien

This might be great, but I am not sure. Many probably allready have manufacturer raw-codec installed. I have one windows 10 1903 laptop, but have not yet installed any raw support to it, so this brings more alternatives available. Different programs render raw differently, some show built-in-jpeg and so on. I might try this out if I get bored with nef, nrw and sony raw codec.

A bit strange arrangement, but it demonstrates how well hi resolution original outputs web size image after number of jpeg generations. Old internet knowledge was that first generation is hi resolution, second is web size and later generations only degrade in quality while storage size may even grow and after eight generation image quality was concidered too low to publish.

Yes, I did read the discussion. I should have written Exiftool. I am not sure what exittool is. Some nikon bodies with some nikon lenses do have exif data of used focussing distance. Photoshop Elements shows it like fraction number that I have not yet figured out how to translate into real world. Exiftool shows it as metric distance.

If You got properly focused picture taken with modern Nikon body and AF-S lens the focus distance information may be in Exif. Exitool can view this information.

I do not have 4K display, but maybe visit to Settings > Ease of Access > Display might help. Choose Make text bigger and adjust slider till sample text is readable. In View NX-i there is slider in top right to change thumbnail image size, if maximum size is still too small one could tick Make everything bigger in Settings panel.

If You will settle for 100dpi contact sheet at 12x16" size Nikon View NX-i will do the job as soon as You have done scanning. So no zooming on screen and prints like 4x5". I would use Coolscan as You allready have it and quality should be great. Since most scanning work is changing negatives and operating scanner, I would scan large, even if it takes more time. Determine maximum print size and scan only as large as needed, skip multisample but do take advantage of ICE.

Moisten the slides with vinegar, if it opens, clean the battery comparament.

I do not use star ranking system, but sometimes I do keywording. It would appear that View NX-i writes keywords to image itself and also creates sidecar files. Photoshop Elements reads keyword info, probably from the images. However operating system search does not reach keywords given in View NX-i, so I prefer tagging images in windows explorer or image preview properties tool. I think image tagging came to windows in 7 if not in Vista, IIRC Xp was not yet there. Windows 8.1 has very nice search results display.

Probably previous owner modified custom setting c3 to capture five images.

Back when they released Nintendo Gamecube, the first unit that my brother got had intermitten problem with graphics circuit, luckily my other brother had mini-dv cam that verified of existence of problem and we got new unit in exhange. It is nice to know that parts and service are still available for Df.

I have the nikkor in topic. Got it used, but zoom action is still flawless. Image quality is good to extent that one might call it boring. If You go to brick and mortar store that has both nikkor and tamron You could test how the VC plays in. Living humans have heartbeat and if You push liveview 100% handheld with zoom to 70mm You should see stutter in displayed image on every heartbeat, same occurs in shooting too, so some believe in machinegun style to avoid shaken images. If the displayed image is more still on tamron and You can live with reversed manual focus directions, why not to get new tamron.

Is it year 2004 again. I do not remember much. Had windows xp 32-bit and Nikon Capture 3.5 anyways. The software was not very good, there were some issues with blue themed false colours. Back then Google Picasa was promising. Soon came View NX and Capture NX that are much better. I still keep around winxp 32-bit box that has second latest View NX2 and very late Capture NX2. Cannot remember startup menu modification, it probably were not much more than couple words.

I would not recommend running printed paper again thru printer unless paper has dried atleast a day. Once when I had just got hp deskjet, I printed to backside of paper and in same evening to frontside of paper. What a horrible mess, all rollers were in ink and it took couple of cleanings with solvent cloth and number of copy paper sheets to get unsmeared print again.

I just recently bought Transcend 16GB 1066x UDMA7 card. Here in Finland other options were Sandisk Ultra, Sandisk Extreme, Sandisk Extreme Pro and Lexar Professional 1066x. Ultra one would have been cheaper, but I often buy the second cheapest option, so I ended up with Transcend.

That vista is seriously old. Nikon ViewNX 2 should support vista, D7000 and D7100. That would keep desktop around. If the laptop has win8.1 64-bit version, maybe get lightroom 6 standalone version.

For Olympus M1 I would definitely try to get UHS-II cards. The store feedbacks tell about significant error rate. At other forums the story has been that with olympus cameras one must format memorycard in computer and not with quick format function. If new card is only formatted in camera there would be high risk of lockups. I have not yet bought into UHS-II. But I recommend Sandisk Extreme Pros for older UHS-I cameras, Samsung EVO+ for smartphones.

There is setting for longest shutter speed used when using flash. Usually on Nikon bodies setting range is 1/60 - 30s. If You are keen on 1/125, use S program or M.

Just shoot what is viewed on computer screen. Normal lens, tripod, low ISO, maybe jpeg mode on. Back when first iPhones were a thing, I couple of times shot printed map of shooting location, if I would have had models, I guess a couple of pose charts would have been nice, curious to read if You care to share Your inspirational ideas.

Movement looks pretty normal to me. In near end of the video there is some hesitation in the movement, but given unusual test scenario I would likely just forget it.

PSE is nice, but everything that You are used to in CS2 is not yet there. PSE 14 does not support clone stamping in 16-bit color mode or multiple layers in 16-bit color mode. GIMP got updated to 2.10 version that has both features.

I have used V625U or LR9 alkaline with Nikkormat FTN. Camera meters rather accurate with it. Or atleast Kodak EBX were not too picky for slide film. IIRC FTN meter operates on certain EV range, so if light is very low metering might not work.

More familiar with canon papers, but I assume that Hahnemuehle are even better quality. I have printed very limited number of BW prints on inkjet, but my choice of paper would be satin or semiglossy.

I have no experience either D3X or D810, but if You happen to use Nikon softwares for editing and printing, there is tendency to standardice output for each custom setting and preference though range of Nikon bodies. For example, if You choose Picture Control Neutral and sharpening low, the pints look the same at quick look. Only when You look carefully at close distance or with magnifying glass You notice more detail in prints from new generation bodies.

I tested Minolta Scan Dual IV with BW film scanned in color negative mode back in March 2005. Images were red/orangy toned, but I found no advantage in converting to BW in photoshop vs ready selected BW negative mode in scanner software.

Maybe quality IPS 1440p display on possible Displayport would be change enough while waiting for new computer. SSD shortens the boot time and windows explorer previews generating time on massive image folders. I have had mostly luck with 256GB and 500GB SSDs. I am not sure SSD is best for everything, on some computers while starting programs there is some waiting that is not due high processor use or low memory, so what could it be.