hapien

I prefer not to use backpack when bicycling. I have smaller bag on handlebars and tree bigger ones on track. The handlebar bag is perfect for camera, maybe few rolls of film, repair tools and map.

Back in 2016 I built custom computer for image processing. I had budget around 1600 euros not 6000 dollars. Documented process with 651 words not 32000 words. Funny thing was that in 2017 my brother bought used computer with same generation parts and nearly equal performance for 130 euros on auction site. Both computers still serve well.

Nikon has two versions of AF-S 18-200mm VR. I have looked trought the older one with D7000 and did not notice anything unusual in the viewfinder for variable aperture zoom. If I had 18-105mm nikkor, I likely would not part of it for 60 or 70 pounds. If You go crazy and this is boating thing, Your dream zoom might be 80-400mm AF-S VR. I looked at the sar group site. Noted that images appear high contrast and tightly cropped. Maybe look into environmental portrait style. 35mm lens and 1/60ish shutter time for motion blur. For site design, there may be too many elements and repeated imagenary. Talk to site designer to cut number of elements and images.

Camera Raw 7.1 and D800 should be compatible. If by profile You mean Picture Controls, I do not think it is possible. But there likely are somewhat similar options in camera raw rendering options, like Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, Camera Vivid, etc...

I do not have CS6 plus Camera Raw 7.1. I tested this with Photoshop Elements 14 plus Camera Raw 9.5. So experience might be different. If You want to output jpegs, You likely want them to be in sRGB color space, so they display nicely with allmost any device. Many online printers like images to be in sRGB too. Most simple way to achieve this is to set camera colorspace to sRGB or if older nikon the desired equivalent (see manual) and set camera to record jpeg. You write of Camera Raw so most likely Your images are recorded in raw mode. It appears that Camera Raw 9.5 does not follow incamera color profile setting, but allways uses sRGB. I did not expect this, but it is fine when one is aiming to jpeg output. Back in CS2 days workflow was like camera set to sRGB (this was not so critical with raw) , CS2 color setting North America Web/Internet, in Camera Raw > Show workflow options - check space sRGB, and when saving jpeg remember to include ICC Profile.

I have tested program named Google Photos Backup on windows. I have not used it in several months and it appears to refuse to start anymore. Probably just needs re-install. Back when it worked, one started program, selected folders to be uploaded and selected upload button. The upload process was not the fastest one, but images appeared to Google Photos. I also use android mobile. I have unselected automatic sync to Google Photos, so images must be uploaded manually. If a day accumulates a lot of images, it is faster to use memorycard reader to transfer images to computer than transfer through Google Google photos. There are limitations in Google Photos, so I have uploaded only medium size jpegs from cameras and full size jpeg from mobile. So far I have kept original images on two computers, but have not yet got around for remote location or online backup.

I have no macs, but recommend Photoshop Elements. Note that I have never tried Lightroom plus Photoshop package, so might be little ill informed.

It is all very strange. Some like stills, some video and many prefer not to record anything at all. As I like stills, I would like to see still cameras in stores in the future too. Film is not dead, dslrs are strong, mirrorless are coming. Obviously mobile phones are in hands of all ages and provide most content of daily image flow.

I usually use memory cards from same period as camera body. I have always tried to get second best card available at time. Old cameras have 10MB/s cards. Then there are 20MB/s cards. Latest and greatest ones are advertised as 95/90MB/s, but when transferred to computer the performance is not that much higher than older ones.

I have also concidered R1 commander kit to match digital bodies, never yet happened. Not even have macro lens yet. If I wanted something to match film body I would look for SB-29s or one without s. Just recently there was these kind of flashes on local used camera store with reasonable price, but I had no need, so the flash must have gone to better hands.

To me it seems like data corruption that happened before geometric correction was applied. Question is whether this is image is from incamera jpeg or from raw and post processing software. If former, corruption likely happened before anything was written on memory card. If latter it is possible that memory card has problems.

I have used camp stove ethanol and strassel to clean either f80 or f65 surfaces, and sticky residue has not returned. Same ethanol is good to remove grease stains from filters when diluted to water in ratio 1 + 2.

I looked the image attachment and it seems that either shutter or mirror mechanism or main circuit board is not functioning. Perhaps it is time to send camera to service, maybe it is covered by warranty.

Current Nikon software offerings seem to be Nikon Transfer 2, Nikon View NX-i and Nikon Capture NX-D. For copying images from memory card to computer there are numerous alternatives. If one prefers to rename each image with date_shot_original_name the Nikon Transfer is suitable. If one likes just original_name the operating system file explorer tool is simpler. Many prefer to use memory card reader instead of camera usb-port. View NX-i is replacement for View NX2. Good for image browsing and quick conversions. Capture NX-D is Nikons current image editor. Not perfect but has very nice output. Then there are number of smaller Nikon programs that may or may not apply to mac system, go to Your local Nikon website and download whatever is available to mac.

Check 70-200mm f/4 VR nikkor and accessory tripod collar. Much more expensive choice than 55-300mm VR, but near perfect compromise of tele zoom.

Now that DxO is using Nik technology, I am curious about whether this DxO Photolabs has feature that was called D-lighting better quality in Nikon Capture NX2?

I do not have D3300, but I looked at reference manual and it seems that D3300 is limited to built-in picture controls. These picture controls are however editable in camera. I have not heard of this before. Many concider camera raw to have industry stardard rendering and some see it as second opinion to Nikon Picture controls used in ViewNX-i and Capture NX-D. In Adobe camera raw there are similar options like standard, landskape, neutral and vivid as in Capture NX-D. I have not made direct comparison of likenes of these options between raw-converters, but to eye they offer somewhat same functionality.

Normally I concider f/2.8 to be on the fast side. But with such specific question I will answer 35mm DX Nikkor as I have nothing else that fits.

Both dials are in factory defaults, shutter time in rear dial and aperture is either behind button + rear dial or in front dial. I have set the viewfinder so that all cameras have + on left and - on right. I have also read that some folks with studio flashes like aperture on rear dial, but that was quite some time ago.

I would follow gphoto2, D3300 is not there yet, D5200 is allready there as it is older model. Back in 2008 I took few frames with gphoto2 and d200. Back then there were no viewfinder view, as liveview was not a thing back then and no autofocus with AF-S lenses like nowadays. Things are evolving continiously in opensource world.

My copys of F-801 and 35mm DX manually focus just fine, assist arrows and focus confirmation works and camera gives positive viewfinder image as focus is right. If I had to shoot with this pair, might be S program and 1/60.

I think You were lucky. There are number of small differences between these two lenses and for still photography most favor 18-105mm.

I remember that I got new SB-400 for 59e on sale. If such price could be found today, another SB-400 would be obvious choice. If You are set on 2x AA battery model, the SB-500 is probably good but rather expensive. If heavier model could do, used SB-600 can be found with nice price.

That 16-80mm says You will want another DX body. 35mm DX does not care even if You shoot FX. 55-300mm is better on DX. It is still quite long time to Black Friday and holiday season deals, but maybe it is worth a wait. Look for good deals on D7100 or D7200.

I do not have single definitive answer. When I must deliver high resolution jpegs on usb-stick, CD, DVD or Blu-ray I will use Capture NX-D. When I would like to print A4 myself, I will use Capture NX2 as I have old WinXP compatible inkjet-printer. When I would like to order 4x6 prints online I will use dcraw + imagemagick on linux. For home printed 4x6 the View NX2 is usefull. For catalog and view on map purposes View NX-i is handy.