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D70 that You have might be just fine. When travelling check travel insurance coverage, it is easy to by latest and greatest and fall out of coverage in case accident or theft. I would not worry about mirrorless, technology moves on but tried and tested set has its value. D70 files may require little more post processing than ones that modern bodies produce, but some prefer smaller filesize and so on. Yes, there are clear image quality improvements when upgrading to more recent body. If You look at D7200, it is kinda peak of now mature DSLR technology. My guess would be that D70 is still relevant, if it has not yet reached end of life phase when operation is unreliable or allready gone.

Nothing dramatical has happened in computer parts since 2013. Processors may have more cores, but that does not matter much in photoshop. Memory has faster connection, but latencies have risen. Graphics card is probably still named Quadro. System SSDs now have m2 connection that is slightly faster than sata SDDs were in 2013. Storage is still often traditional spinning hard drives. Study current computer specs and aim to double everything.

I have heard of two button reset on Nikon bodies, but never tried myself. I often use two button format on memorycards, though. Not sure if possibly related to topic, there were firmware update a veek or two ago.

On D200 28mm f/2.8D delivers solid but not exeptional performance. If You are used to 38mm rangefinders the framing is very close. I have also 28mm f/3.5 Ai-s which may be sharper or then I usually shoot bit more stopped down with it, have not verified cause yet.

If You want to take advantage of 10-bit color precision, we must wait for experts to arrive. Or You could google for some recent 10-bit color chain tutorial. I have read from internet that such workstations exist, but never have met in real life.

How things seem to operate with intel display adapter? You seem to have fourth generation processor so Adobe practically recommends adding dedicated graphics card. Any current card with 2GB memory should be enough. Example mentioned should work fine. If You want to future proof for 4K or 5K display, then graphics card might be better off with atleast 4GB memory.

Slightly embarrasing, I forgot I-phone users that need website interface. Make sure that somewhere there is one button dowload of large jpegs. Think of amazon one click order on products.

I have not followed website desing for long time. My guess would be that final media these days for moderately compressed fullsize jpeg images is micro-SD, that clients can plug into their mobile phones or with SD-adapter to their computers. It is completely different matter if You want offer somekind of once a lifetime shopping experience for selected prints or products.

Long awaited GIMP with 16-bit per channel colors appears to be out. Linux version worked fine. Windows version works if one uninstalls previous version before hitting install program. There are lot of features including two new image resizing algorithms.

Christmas is still far away, hard to quess what may come out while waiting. You have probably noticed that You could pick up used D200 + 18-55mm for relatively cheap. New cameras at stores are all very good. Images take more than twice as much hard drive space than they did with D200. Cameras are much better at low light. Cameras shoot video and offer liveview shooting from back screen. Liveview autofocus likes AF-S or AF-P lenses. If You are set with light alloy body, D7200 or D500 or D850 might fit.

Mobile phone cameras often process captured images automagickally before saving to phone or card. Boosting neutral or flat DSLR image in post processing is very common, it works usually better with raw images. Capture NX-D is one option for such program. Other option is to visit camera Picture Controls and select suitable profile and settings for jpeg rendering.

Sometimes it is best to go auto everything, meaning P mode, Auto ISO and TTL BL Auto FP on flash. There is probably complex calculations about subject distance, background illumination, sensitivity and remaining charge of flash. Usually things work out in an manner that there is image. If You get focusing distance wrong the main subject is probably not correctly exposed. In practice daytime images with flash often are ISO 100, late evening images are ISO 400 and if flash runs low on charge on indoor serie ISO is upped from that 400.

Back in 2002 I mail ordered some Fuji Superia 100 rolls. Finished last one in spring 2016. This film maintains its properties very well over time, even when stored in room temperatures. I exposed the last roll as ISO 80 and were happy with results. Scanning with Minolta Scan Dual IV lost some of the highlights, but offered better resolution. Canon Canonscan 9000 Mk II was better with highlights, but not so good in details. If I had 17 or so rolls of Superia 100, I would probably shoot them as ISO 100.

Manfrotto Befree Carbon is near as light as tripod is going to get, IIRC Sirui has even lighter models. Good sides of befree are lightweight of 1150 grams and compact size that fits in 30 liter backpack. Not so good is low viewpoint if one is not going to extend center column and stability that almost require cable release. Befree is not meant to take anykind abuse, so if one trips on it, it will likely break.

2.4.6 was last version that supported 32-bit windows xp.

I do not find any Capture NX2 related links on nikon support site anymore. I find Capture NX-D to be rather good for free software. I have not tried Lightroom so maybe I do not know what is missing.

USB3.0 is definitely worth a add-on pci card or new card reader or new casing. Memorycards work just fine in older USB2 readers, difference is in transfer speed. I have many memory card readers, best one is black Transcend USB3.0 reader, the funny thing is I usually use it on 2008 computer and front panel USB2 connection, only when there is more images I plug it on backpanel USB3.0 add-on card.

Last summer I shot an event with 160 iso color negative film on tele images and 13Mpix smartphone for 27mm equivalent. I printed some to A4 size and phone images were noticiably better quality than film images. Although I have to admit that film was long expired. Phone images require minimal work to recieve prints, some online printers even have mobile app for this. Film requires development, scanning, post processing and printing. Back to original topic. I find 28mm to be focal lenght that is often wide enough. 35mm is closer to normal and very comfortable to shoot with. If looking for lightweigh zoom, 28-100mm is not that horrible as many say.

During three winter months there is maybe one stop less light than in other seasons and this in between 10 a clock and 15. Slight vignetting appearing suggests that 35mm opens aperture more than in previous images. As aperture opens the area in focus gets narrower. What is hyperfocal focusing distance? What is sufficient time to stop motion? How much I must raise ISO to reach short enough time?

There is setting b2 for optimal exposure fine tuning. If this setting could be way off, it might explain why meter sees no light. I do not know if such large compensation is even possible. This should affect also liveview metering, so I do not think this is it.

I am not sure what You want to read. Back in 2006 I had 20mm AF-D that was rather nice with film and DX digital, maybe some tendency to flare with sun, but sold it in need of money. My guess would be that You might like 20mm f/1.8G as wide angle both with D500 and D810. 24mm AF-D is slightly wider on few meter focusing distance than 24-70mm older version. So 24mm f/1.8G may make sense if You are fond of 35mm equivalent on D500. 50mm f/1.4D is surely up to even todays standards if critical liveview focusing performance is not needed. 85mm f/1.8G should be good with both DX and FX.

Today there is new distortion control data and d500 firmware update available. Went with the distortion control data update and all seems well. I have updated camera firmware only few times, but in my experience cameras retain custom settings despite firmware update. The settings are these times so numerous that I have written them down for each camera.

I updated firmware and shot few frames to check operation. Camera still works. I forgot to check if battery was full before update, but no hickups this time.

Perhaps You have scans of expired Kodak Portra NC160? I have very yellow scans from canon 9000 flatbed and somewhat more color correct ones with minolta scan dual iv.

Back in early days of SSD there were data loss problems with drives that were left unpowered for longer periods than three month. I do not know how this relates in SSDs available on stores today. Optical media is not totally reliable either. I had discs from early 2000s that were unreadable couple years ago. I still trust most traditional spinning hard drives, but they can fail or drop so multiple samples are required. For mobility I have old 2,5" 500GB WD Black on USB3 enclosure that seems to be operating even with lower USB2 current output. Memorycards have very high capasity vs size, but I usually do not use them as storage for longer period. I have thought about getting tablet with microSD slot and using microSD card with adapter on camera, but have not quite reached there.