hapien

If one is going to mount quick release plate on camera for longer time, and mounting screw tends to get loose, maybe tiny drop of soft lock glue on threads is good idea. I have read of downhill ride bike inner tubes that were as thick as 1,2mm. Ordinary bike tubes are much thinner.

Nikon flash cable, can not remember which one, has infrared # crosshatch sight on the hot-shoe, and it will focus Your dslr in dark unlit bathroom through mirror image in light unseen by eye. Might be best idea in world or worst if war helicopter thinks You're bad boy.

Zero experience with Sears 300mm f/5.6, but... Fancy to do trade, meet new people, might be advantage in later life, 40 dollars might be next to nothing or entire month of burgers, I do not know, 58mm filter seems very compact, check if thing is ai/ai-s compatible if required

I am not trained for achiving, but it is not likely because acid free paper. After relative humidity goes over 75% and if there is environment temperature changes, moisture will appear. Inkjet inks have some sort of oilyish solution, which might be glycerin, fresh prints are perfect base to cultivate fingerprint and aerial bacteria contamination in moist environment. If there is acidity in paper, it would reduce risk of mold, but would weaken archivability otherwise.

I keep them around, nine element chrome ring 18-55mm DX G2 without VR and 35mm DX, plus 17-55mm DX.

I enjoy my Dell 1440p display in multiple terminal use, but for photo editing going for 1080p seems attractive. I actually bought newer Dell 1080p office IPS, but most highlights were cut to white, and display is practically unfit for photo editing. I have not tried 4K monitors, and I would not buy one without reading quality reviews on that particular model. Opening that clam might be smartest move, most people would envy

All components have gotten better in these 11 years. Yet performance upgrade is just incremental. Different options are nearly limitless, but budget keeps project on earth. You could look for factory build computer with AMD 5700G, 16GB, gpu with 4GB memory, 1TB m.2 SSD and preinstalled windows 11. I do not know if such thing actually exists in US. Best way to transfer data is likely x ethernet cable and windows network shared folder.

In the future hi-resolution video may be needed for still images source material, programs like ffmpeg have option to extract still images from video, even to frame level.

I have to admit that idea was quite bad, according to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M.2 the connector on adapter and computer is rated for only 60 mating cycles

I can imagine videographing all day and opening cfexpress b adapter, plugging hard drive to for example Dell Precision 3240 Compact and enjoy data transfer rates.

Most likely You want to enter focal lenght and maximum aperture to MENU > SETUP > Non-CPU Lens Data and matrix metering is supported. The camera remembers last non cpu one that has been entered as remounted.

I think Nikon is going continue with DSLRs, improvement have been incremental, D780 has even face-detection in 3D mirror down mode. Why in earth would Nikon stop to that.

I have zero dravings or paintings from lukio (finnish equivalent of high scool). I had like 53400 image files on my computer, but then I accepted that if I had not printed it in ten years, I would not be needing them anymore. Only prints and negatives will remain. Modern hardware is like 14 times faster than old spinning harddrives. My plan is to keep even obsolete hardware, but delete outdated files.

Adobe recommends 1. Right-click on a photo (or hold the Command or Control key while clicking) and choose Enhance. 2. In the Enhance Preview dialog box, check the Super Resolution box and then press Enhance. Make sure to select Raw Details. 3. Continue editing your new DNG file. Is not 24Mpix plenty of data to begin with, 96Mpix image file must be huge and possibly slow to upload to printer.

I would not go camera scanning route. Previously I have tried dedicated film scanners and flatbeds, but recently I have come to like inexpensive 10Mpix digitiser that I got new for like 38 euro.

Some years ago in Sweden there was a theft of whole shipping container of tamron lenses, I wonder where all those went. But I suppose that official importers order merchantice by containers that ship trough world seas. Collectors and such often order specialty items thru air mail even overseas.

I have no experience of 5x4 negs, but massive dev chart is one of my goto places and I have trust in what they tell. Rodinal is one shot developer, I have tried to use it 1:25 with tri-x and delta 100. Just remember to mix developer right before use, do not let it stand overnight.

I have read that while upscaling, some prefer to avoid generating new colors and use simple Imagemagick scale operation to resize image. This sometimes leads to pixellated output, but there is no grayish messiness.

I am not familiar with epson scanners, but I have read on internet that flatbed scanners give usable information as far as 1200 - 1700 dpi range. With canon flatbed one can choose either 2400 dpi or lower value. Usually flatbed film scans are soft so they benefit from slight unsharpmask sharpening. Modern era prints are usually made from files that give 300 - 400 dpi information. There is nothing wrong to scan print with 600 dpi, but quality difference to 300 dpi is hardly visible and process is slower. Your sample shows high magnification where even jpeg compression may become visible. Program capture shows that there is lot of options that can be experimented or there is possibility to re-estimate motive for scanning old negatives and either get dedicated film scanner or discard idea.

I remember Minolta Scan Dual III from times that I had one. My guess is this phenomenon is somekind of moirepattern resulting from 2800dpi scan and film grain. My Scan Dual III had only USB1.1 connection, so newer Scan Dual IV proved much faster in operation.

Your best bet with GIMP is to crop desired image, scale image with NoHalo interpolation, apply some unsharp mask legacy and slap some CIE Ich noise to create fake sense of resolution.

Most likely even seemingly corroded black wire is ok to solder few millimeters under plastic cover

I have tried Nik Collection Define2 noise reduction on noisy D70 file, but it was not as good as helicon noise filter or noise ninja around 2005 or thereabouts. I do not have helicon noise filter or noise ninja anymore, so cannot directly compare on same file. I ended up printing the image with canon ip100 without sharpening or noise reduction. I would not worry of artefacts that appear only with loupe, guests that see the print are likely to look it about three feet away. One possibility is to send slightly compressed jpeg file for wet process print, this should suppress noise a bit more than inkjet print from original.

Maybe battery contacts on camera side are corroded, or external power might not be able to supply enough current or something. If You can find Nikon EH-4 mains power supply, You can test if there is something wrong in camera. New, charged battery should also bring camera to life.

Visit IJ Scan Utility settings, choose jpeg or tiff to Your liking. Use ScanGear function to see available options. Scan the negatives if available. Choose sufficient resolution. Scanner optics are written to have optical limit of 1700dpi, so scanning negatives with more than 2400dpi does not make sense. If images seem too unsharp, tick unsharp mask sharpening box. Choose FARE level in correlation with condition of negatives, there might be advantage of use lower fare level if negatives are clean. Colors are a bit different than from minilab prints.