Ken Katz

Sigma and Tamron just announced a number of lenses that will become available for Canon RF mount cameras. News here is that Canon, up to now, has been blocking the sale of third party AF lenses for the RF mount via legal entanglements. The announced lenses are licensed by Canon, and for now, are only for APS-C cameras. Sort of tells me that Canon is unlikely to be developing many APS-C RF lenses in the near term, and the availability of Sigma / Tamron lenses could improve the marketability of their APS-C R cameras. It is unclear if and when Canon will allow FF third party AF lenses, or if it will only allow those FF lenses for which Canon will not have a competing product.

FYI the iCloud data plan can be shared with family members with different Apple Id's. Phones come with 5gb, which isn't going to do very much these days.

It would seem to me that anyone who really needs a quiet camera for professional use (getting paid), should get a mirrorless camera (one that can use their current DSLR lenses with an adaptor) for use in such environments. No mirror and E shutter should produce zero sound, and is better than wrapping your camera in a towel to silence it. If you don't want to give up your DSLR's that's fine. Just get a older used mirrorless for use just in these quiet venues.

You can get the manual here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/camerareviews/pentax-electro-spotmatic.html That website says it has a few manual / mechanical shutter speed settings, for B, 1/60th, 1/125th, and a few more. It looks like it will require extensive surgery, and as stated above, the camera may be terminal. If you like the camera, and/or have applicable lenses, I'm sure you could find another model or similar model in working order for not a whole lot of money.

I am no expert on all things Apple, but I will try. I simply use iCloud to back up my Apple devices if they are lost, damaged, or get sucked out of an aircraft plug door when it blows out at 16,000 feet. The backup includes all data and photos on my devices. I managed to fit the backup of my 3 Apple devices on their 50 gb plan, which costs $0.99 per month. You can also decide what data you want backed up, and toggle the switch to not back up your photos on iCloud. I don't do much with iCloud except for data backup. Occasionally, I will get on the account using a Windows 11 machine and download photos onto my hard drive in order to load them in Lightroom. They don't make it that easy, since I want to get full resolution files, without any Live View data to muck things up.

Assuming you want to use either a fully manual flash or an "old school" auto flash with a built in sensor, there are a whole bunch of these adaptors available: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1650186-REG/vello_hsa_pcu35_universal_hot_shoe_adapter.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A6879&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrIixBhBbEiwACEqDJax1BtR_NouXuWnaCU32wwMWAX94XWH3hcAMz97k_Q6OyJMwV6ES5RoCP5EQAvD_BwE or https://www.amazon.com/JJC-Connection-Connecting-Additional-Accessories/dp/B073WVW9XM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.m-WCYtE-3DzubuMEY3NGb9Eio0L2V0Zha7takykPUGs2K4YfnoFj8CEc90mUjAspXQHUIFNbuThPLESW9cbPJpdhWHdAEY2P8IWX2Qp2P9c6Tv9zGWqPN6rA4PNuGgqQt0nrAAd8a8Q4uXKaxIBwMcC06GMGS3st8dulba4HElxCJNzKiaKRC0wpFsB0LgVYvCw7uKjRC6ikBSPZAanc--j-EjOEwHrzBEMiEywrwdM.KGTJ4oxyrT_PLim3xKUYKzVeqrHY8mh00ORryG3NiJg&dib_tag=se&keywords=hot%2Bshoe%2Bsync%2Badapter&qid=1713538564&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 Personally, it would be more fun to use that little camera without a flash unit sitting on top. I have a black body QL17 (new version) that I inherited, and its lovely to look at. Haven't used it a few decades since it needs these chemical based sensors, that come in 24 or 36 exposure containers.

I would bring along the Lumix, mostly for the 486mm (FF equivalent) lens, since your phone does not seem to have a telephoto camera. In most other areas, I would expect a modern smartphone to outperform a 14 year old, small CCD sensor point and shoot, especially how a smartphone handles low light with computational HDR tech. I have seen a vast number of people use smartphones in almost any light (in sunny Croatia and the beach in San Diego) without much difficulty. Its also useful if and when you need to use Google maps, find a good restaurant, text a friend, or even make a phone call.

TTL used flash meter sensors that measured light reflecting off of the film during exposure to determine when to shut down the flash output. I don't think that works well if there is a sensor instead of a piece of film. Of course Canon introduced ETTL when the Elan II was introduced, so they had other reasons for introducing the pre flash system during the film era.

While Canon started to produce the EX line of Speedlights around 1995, which will work on all DSLRs, the performance was mostly based upon the camera it was used on. My 550EX plus the D60 (not the 60D) was a PITA, requiring flash AE lock and flash exposure comp to work decently. The 5D mk I provided much better consistency.

"But you lose a lot of light at those speeds" Absolutely, but the camera can shoot at around 51,000 ISO, so it may work. Frankley, I have no need for such capabilities, but thought your comparison to the performance of leaf shutters was interesting. I have shot my granddaughter (and some bears at the Bronx zoo roughhousing) at 10 fps using an E shutter on my tiny Olympus EM-5iii, but I think I will pass on the new Sony global shutter (and the $15K investment including a few lenses) for now.

Sort of, since a leaf shutter can sync with flash at all shutter speeds and I believe is not subject to rolling shutter distortion. Of course the Sony has a maximum shutter speed of 1/80,000 second with 120 frames per second bursts. That is of course you need this kind of performance, but since I missed my chance to photograph Taylor at the Super Bowl last Sunday, I think I can wait on buying the new Sony, at least until next year.

Perhaps you will get lucky and person who actually used the lens will respond on PN, but given the lower traffic and more limited EOS users (than previously on PN), that may not happen. My thought is that it is likely to be quite sharp for a superzoom, and it is surprisingly light, about 3 lb, similar to the 70-200 f2.8L. Unless you plan on using it on a tripod or only in bright light, the lack of IS would have a significant impact on its usage. Alternatives would be the Canon 70-300 f4-f5.6 IS, 70-300 f4-F5.6L IS, or the 28-200 IS. All have IS and the 70-300 lenses are very good optically, the EF 28-200IS has a less stellar reputation. There is an EF 28-300 f3.5-f5.6L IS, but it likely to be more expensive and it is quite heavy.

The 80D and 90D appear to use Canon's latest APSC sensor tech and they are clearly the last of the Canon DSRLs that will be developed, so I don't know why they would not be viable for long, long time. Besides some specific feature differences, the 90D's resolution is certainly a standout, at a somewhat higher cost (used?). Used 6Dii are also being sold at attractive prices if you wanted to have all FF cameras, but no pop-up flash and I don't think the build is any better than the 6D. If you wanted be a little adventurist, the Canon R50 sells new for about $650 (plus about $130 for the EF adaptor), and you can see how Canon's latest AF tracking and subject recognition works. I believe the rear screen is fully articulate and it has a pop up flash! I would expect the image quality to be similar the 80D.

I can’t thank of any reason why that lens shouldn’t work on your 70D. Try it on the D Rebel, and if you get the same result then it’s definitely the lens that’s the problem.

Its been a few decades since I used Tri-X (or any film), but I would probably meter the darkest area that you would want to see detail and let the latitude of the film take care of the highlight areas. Obviously, printing will require appropriate dodging and burning in. You may have a dense negative but all the detail should be there.