paul_wheatland

<p>Millerslab.com, they pay shipping both ways.</p>

<p>The shutter in this camera only operates once film has advanced to exposure number one! This is on of my favorite AF multi program Nikons. Caveat: use only AF or AIS lenses as a tiny pin on the body mount can catch on other lenses creating a locked lens problem. To check shutter action remove lens close back and fire camera. After the third release the shutter will fire!</p>

<p>These are great cameras but lacking bulb and time there is no way to adjust focus on ground glass. Thus my advice, use the camera on objects that fall between six feet and infinity. These cameras do not do well on closer photography as there is no rangefinder nor parallax compensation! My Minox GL takes fantastic snapshots, your EL will do likewise!</p>

<p>I use the m42 to EOS adapter made and sold by fotodiox USA. The adapter pushes the pin in to allow f stop changes.</p>

<p>Sign seen on local fitness gymnasium just the other day in Massachusetts, USA: "Merry Fitness and Happy New Rear"!!!</p>

<p>There is a lever on the camera which allows you to fire the shutter one or more times with no film in the camera. Should you load the camera with film you must move the lever to allow the camera to stop at each frame when advancing the crank. Hope this helps!</p>

<p>I have used Tamron 135 f2'8 BBAR with adaptall m42 coupled with Fotodiox m42 to EOS. The adapter has a "shelf" that keeps the stop down pin pushed in with no need for A/M switch. Same adapter allows use of 35 and 200 Pentax lenses with excellent results for all lenses in this posting on my Canon Rebel T-2 35mm film camera (24x36) all manual focus with aperture rings also allowing AV automation if needed!</p>

<p>I usually turn off AF switch when I want to focus manually on a particular portion of the subject during a close up composition!</p>

<p>There are technicians that routinely convert fd Canon mounts to ef Canon mount while maintaining infinity focus. It may be worth getting a quote from s k crimes in woonsocket to USA to have this done. After all the lens has already been cobbled with a mystery large threaded mount!</p>

<p>The skirt means it will only fit Nikon F or F-2 but it has "rabbit ears" from AI lens with cutouts, why this is I cannot explain. The skirt prevents mounting on later model Nikon bodies and may cause damage to signal post. Check internet for explanations of N/ ai, versus ai versus, versus ai-s mounts for the entire Nikon line from 1959 to 2015!</p>

<p>I was on the road for 37 years in my day job. My hobby was and is photography. My interest for several years was farm tractors, antique cars and trucks usually in and around farms and old repair shops. I always, stopped and asked permission to photograph these items and sent them copies of some of the images. I always tried to keep my photography on a friendly permission given basis. If I were to photograph an abandoned structure, dwelling or factory, I'd keep my distance and shoot from the street and not step on or through private property. Usually there is no one there to give permission! I felt most comfortable handling my photo essay in this fashion.</p>

<p>Lacking any engraving or serial number could be FSU (Russian or Ukranian) clever Leica I copy?</p>

<p>I recently purchased an adapter m42 lens to Canon EOS body. The adapter is made to stop the lens down so A/M switch which is missing on my Adaptall adapter m42 now works on my substantial collection of Tamron adaptall manual focus lenses. I can use aperture preferred with these lenses on the EOS body. The lenses now available for use: 17 3.5/ 24 2.5/28 2.5/ 35 3.5 takumar/ 90 2.8 macro/ 135 2.8/ 200 5.5 takumar preset/ 300 5.5 soligor t-4 m42 mount. It gives new life to my lens collection.</p>

<p>I believe you can advance to the next frame and you don't wish to cock the shutter DO NOT backpedal the crank. Should you forget that at some point you have advanced to the next frame, the crank does not allow advancing again and your task is now rotate crank anti-clockwise to arm the shutter for your exposing this ready frame!</p>

<p>Cheaper solution than fixing your existing camera, find a Canon Rebel T-2 film camera, they may not have this issue and if so, buy another. I bought one awhile back for the price of two large pizzas!</p>

<p>I have owned and used at least a half dozen Nikon F, still have and use an all original 1959 with "tick" 50 f2. These cameras have all been super reliable, never had any CLA or restoration done. They are truck like, somewhat noisy tho quieter than my f2 Nikon. They are all crunchy at the end of the advance stroke and is a born characteristic of the wind! Spend your money on film, processing and optics like I have done. </p>

<p>My owners manual requires you to set ISO to 100 and shutter speed to 1/2000 second to use the switch on back turning knob to "c" to check battery freshness!</p>

<p>Certain Polaroid slr cameras have a first surface mirror within. These can be bought at thrift/ charity shops. If you have the skill with a glass cutter, you may be able to replace mirrors in rangefinders (and twin lens film cameras)!</p>

<p>Appears to be Contax rangefinder external mount missing the locking latch?</p>

<p>Years ago, I dabbled with slides and set my meter under exposing one stop for normal to bright conditions and subject and half stop under exposed for darker subject and dimmer light. Let the meter with adjustments to ISO above give you the correct exposure for lighting and subject.</p>

<p>Some bodies will not allow fdn lens to mount if lens is locked on A! Just a thought, your buyer might want to put aperture ring on other th a A?</p>

<p>I have the 18mm Spiratone. The y-s mount is automatic but since I don't have any mounts, I use T mounts in order to shoot with my Nikon, Canon, Leicaflex, and Pen F half frame. While on this subject, I bought a m42 to canon eos adapter. I can now use all my m42 lenses on eos even my stable of manual focus Tamron adaptall glass, if no a/m switch is not provided. Infinity is spot on!</p>

<p>Having reduced my collection and anticipating a move to senior housing I have concluded that remaining cameras should be mechanical, which use 35mm or 120 film only. If batteries are needed for metering only, that allows them to remain in the permanent collection. My favorites are Leica M-3, Nikon F-2, Canon F-1n. My favorite 120 cameras are Simmon Omega 6x7, Rolleiflex Automat, and Hasselblad 500. High build quality is paramount.</p>

<p>They appear from time to time on eBay!</p>

<p>The Bessa II has an inflated collector value and may suffer from lens to film lack of parallel alignment because of wear. The vito II with compur and Skopar is a very capable and excellent picture taker. The Minox, down the road may exhibit electronic shutter issues. The Vitessa has the possibility of film advance issues with the plunger and are a horror to repair. These cameras still in my collection save for the Bessa II and I pass on my opinions for those needing thumbnail review.</p>