MathewDH

Hi Chuck, Actually, no. The current list of uploadable files for a posting does not include the PDF format. CHEERS...

100 years ago Kodak brought out the first rangefinder camera in the 3A size. Later that year the 1A Autographic Kodak Special with rangefinder appeared. Since these cameras can still be used with 120 film, I undertook a restoration of the December, 1918 printing of the manual for the 1A camera. this makes it 99 years old to the month. I also have the March 1918 version too. The difference is the December version added two photos of the young man demonstrating how to hold the camera. The December 1918 manual also came with a separate four page insert of Revised Instructions for using the Optima No. 1 shutter. These were in terrible shape and required a lot of time to restore. I felt they were important and possibly the only surviving example of these instructions. These revised instructions lead off in the PDF for quick access. But just as important, these instructions are probably applicable to the other sizes and models of Kodak cameras that also used the Optima No. 1 shutter. I was also planning a second posting with those Revised Instructions in a 600a DPI PDF for easier reading. However, I just found out I cannot post the PDF formats as attachments. It used to be possible to post any file type. So this means I cannot post these for people to download. CHEERS...Mathew

You can see the just announced camera models at Canon Rumors. I just bought a Canon 80D and had it converted to IR. I might have waited given the new releases...nah! Mathew

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<p>As far as I know the Vigilant was not sold with the No.2 Supermatic. I suspect this shutter came from another camera. I show it being first sold with the No.1 Supermatic, and after WW2 with the No. Kodamatic.</p> <p>Here is the Depth of Field table for this camera with the two high-end shutters I know about.</p> <p>CHEERS...Mathew</p>

<p>Anyone going to the show? It is the first one in Portland, at the Armory in Rose City.</p> <p>Here is the link:</p> <p>https://4photofair.wordpress.com/</p> <p>CHEERS...Mathew</p>

<p>I went to post the off-topic forum and it looks like they have deactivated it. New topics cannot be added.</p> <p>Since I usually post here I will ask the question of the UK readers.</p> <p>Would anyone be willing to help me obtain some music files off of the UK Amazon site? These are files that are not available to the U.S. buyers or on U.S. Amazon. I can reimburse via Paypal.</p> <p>Once the files are purchased, they will be downloadable as a single PDF. Then it can be sent to me via Dropbox. </p> <p>The project is a discography listing of the song Skokiaan, aka Skokian. Besides building a written discography I have been building a collection of the music as well. Soon I hope to put the written discography up on a website.</p> <p>CHEERS...Mathew / USA</p>

<p>Here are the details for future users.</p><div></div>

<p>Very nice to see this Rick. I just scanned both the US and UK manuals and can check it for the depth of field scales when I get home.</p> <p>CHEERS...Mathew</p>

<p>If you want the images to survive, digital files are probably not the way to go. In the long run of time, most will be lost, just like the billions of photographic prints that have been made over time.</p> <p>With small photos I recommend at least 1200 DPI when scanning. It will reveal all of the damage to the picture so it can be removed in a restoration. A high resolution scan means you can print it a lot larger.</p> <p>With the restoration completed, reprint the photos on archival paper and place them into albums. Include a biography about the persons in the pictures. And with a pencil, write the names of the people, date of the photo, and where taken, on the back of the prints along the edge. If the biography is lost, the identities are still on the back of the prints. Make enough albums for the extended family that would like to have one. One or two will probably survive with the next generations. It is then up to the receivers of the pictures to plan on the images surviving. It is the best you can do rorm your generation in the family.</p> <p>CHEERS...Mathew</p>

<p>My niece found a Chinon CS in a thrift store and bought it. She lacked the manual. And she wondered why the meter was not working. Hmm, it needs batteries.</p> <p>So I bought her some batteries and tracked down an original manual for her. I also took the time and have scanned and restored the images. So here is a PDF of the manual for anyone who lacks one too.</p> <p>CHEERS...Mathew</p>

<p>A 4x5 cropped version.</p><div></div>

<p>A few minor adjustments.</p><div></div>

<p>Actually, formatting text in Photoshop is simple and easy to do and only has to be adjusted line by line. Once you have the tools understood and have some experience doing the work, it goes well. The last book I created had about 30+ pages of text combined with photos. The biggest challenge is working out several page layouts where the pictures will go, before the text is added. CHEERS...Mathew</p>

<p>I recommend doing the HDR first. Then study all of them to find the one that has the best overall light and dark feel to your eyes. From this point you will want to open the adjacent frames and adjust them to match the starting frame. Then take those adjacent frames and use them to adjust the next frame in sequence. Once they are all done, look at them all at once to see if you are satisfied with each of them. Then stitch them together. If you are using PTgui for the stitching, it does a great job at the blending process to create a good overall match to tones in the different areas. Once the stitching is done the real work of fixing the stitched image starts.</p>