paul_wheatland

<p>If using e6 slide film adjustment not needed. If using print negative films reduce ISO one stop. Drop 400 to 200 200 to 100 100to 50 and so forth.</p>

<p>Dennis: the internal e mail is only through photo.net at your workspace!</p>

<p>A word of caution as I have been there, some m42 lenses have a tiny spring loaded pin on the mount usually Ricoh and Sears. This pin used on non Ricoh/Sears bodies could LOCK lens on body such as your Chinon. Remedy is remove the pin, not needed or avoid those lenses.</p>

<p>Welcome to the forum. My Minolta SRT101 has mirror lock up probably not on other models. Please check your internal e mail from me concerning my small Minolta camera and lens collection. I have to downsize my collectibles!</p>

<p>Read up on the internet about reliability issues with the Nikon FA and you may relegate the FA to shelf status. The seals are user replaceable on both cameras. The FE2 Nikon may be the more reliable of the two.</p>

<p>On my Leica II CA. 1932, I use a wrist strap donated from an 8mm movie camera. If not using a Retina sport finder, the cold shoe holds a tiny selenium meter(several many makes). On my M-3, a Retina meter in the shoe and Nikon AH-3 to allow better centering of tripod. A soft leather double lined leather case CS-12 for Nikon FM2n(sold) serves as my M mount ever ready case. Another inexpensive tripod centering device is Nikon AH-2 which resides on my M-1. These also fit screw mount Leica for those when centering issues are required. These Nikon items came from sources that have no present day demand as they are now cheap and out moded for use with Nikon cameras.</p>

<p>My opinion is that your work belongs to your former employer and using it now may constitute using company property that you have no right to show, use or sell.</p>

<ul> <li>Glad you disengaged the lens. Sometime ago, I bought an older Nikon with a lens stuck on the camera. I finally freed the lens and found that the tiny lock had corrosion allowing the release button to not move it smoothly and not all the way flush. I buffed t h e corrosion away, applied a tiny bit of lube with cotton bud, no more problems.</li> </ul>

<p>On other cameras not yours, two solutions come to mind: the shutter has not completed the cycle for two reasons, self timer did not complete its cycle or if battery dependent the shutter failed to operate. The other reason a mirror doesn't reset is mirror bumper is sticky because foam has deteriorated.</p>

<p>If the metering installation and wiring plus drive pulley arrangement is the same as the Retina model IIIS, then a word of caution is recommended. There is a thin nylon cable that follows a tortuous trip over several pullies that broke on mine. I reassembled it without fixing the meter after all. I have been able to make minor repairs to some cameras in my collection but this one eluded my skills.</p>

Does it take a fresh 6 volt #544 battery?

<p>When calibrating twin lens cameras that have lenses synchonised with gear teeth, look for an individual tooth on each lens assembly that may have a factory witness mark. Had you thought of it before disassembly, you could have made your own witness mark with colored fingernail polish. To calibrate, start both lenses at the same time on their respective helix. By trial and error and lots of patience, you will succeed.</p>

<p>Color and black+white open up one stop, no problem. Portraits are better in open shade, never facing the sun, sun behind the photographer is OK but avoid casting a shadow. Open lens up to eliminate fore and background detail.</p>

<ol> <li>With chrome E-6 you may underexpose a bit, with print over expose 1 to 2 stops</li> </ol>

<p>IMHO financially I would relegate the item to display status. Cameras of this ilk would appear to be collectable, designer items more so than tools of picture making. In my collection, I have such items because of malfunction or film no longer being produced.</p>

<p>M-3 SS with Canon f2 black 35mm with Accura 35 viewer and 50 DR Summicron.</p>

<p>I always store my Hasselblad without the dark slide. This keeps the seals from flattening prematurely. Something to keep in mind! Warning keep the darkslide in a heavy envelope marked "darkslide" in the bag with camera.</p>

<p>'20's Kodak 120 / '30's Leica II/ '40's Kodak Medalist/ '50's Leica M-3/ '60's Nikon F-2/ '70's Canon F-1/ enough already (grin) I still have and use these cameras!</p>

<p>1959 Leica M-3 with 1966 DR Summicron or my Leica IIIc 1946 with Konishiroku Hexanon 50mm f1,9 (ca.1956).</p>

<p>Olympus Pen F with 38mm f1,8 and 18mm Spiratone with T-mount(don,t have YS mount in Pen F mount). I also have Vivitar 200mm preset in T thread though haven't used it on this camera.</p>

<p>My two cents, save your money and sell it as a working camera ready for photography. A custom restoration will cost you several hundred dollars plus your initial investment equals selling at A LOSS!</p>

<p>I scraped the foam out with wooden skewer, replaced hinge seal ran roll of film, no leaks but to play safe, replaced grooved door channel seals with black yarn with no glue needed. Repair successful!</p>

<p>Instead of re-calibration if using non mercury battery set ISO one stop slower with modern battery. I use 357 button battery with O ring to replace 625 battery and adjust ISO as above.</p>

<p>My experience with FSU lenses confirms excellent image making quality plus lens shade use suggested. As for light leaks, changing lenses in subdued light with lens facing down should avoid stray light leak. Run a roll through it to verify leakage, don't bother with prints. Check negatives for light leaks.</p>

<p>Don't feel bad, I have owned A-1, EF, AE-1,FTb,now only have F-1,(middle version),Tx, and AE-1Program. Lenses all breech mount: 24, 28, 35, 50, 135. My favorites are 35mm f2 and 50 f1,4!</p>