paul_wheatland

<p>My experience with several Contax rangefinder cameras with rollerblind shutters is not good thus I no longer buy that camera, try to trade it for Hasselblad model 500 instead of the one with built in motor!</p>

<p>Owning an Olympus 4/3 mirror camera and a Nikkor 24mm f2.8 with Fotodiox adapter, I then added a .5 lense to bring the EFF back to 24mm. The image was very acceptable though the image was round like the original Kodak from late 19th century! This satisfied my need for wide angle picture taking though it may not be a handy solution for others!</p>

<p>David Odesss, Randolph, MA, decades in business, factory trained, knows the camera, lens and accessories. I have had my Hasselblad serviced by him and he posts here on occasion.</p>

<p>I have both Canon made adapter B for fd Lens on LTM body plus Fotodiox fd lens on M bodies. Since there is no rgfdr coupling you must use a handheld distance meter and observe the distance scale and adjust lens to appropriate distance mark. I have had good experience with these cobbled items however for wide open aperture at close distance could be inaccurate!</p>

<p>Read up on some issues that crop up on the T90. Great camera but subject to dirty shutter magnets and loose body mount</p>

<p>The Canon EF has an internal voltage regulator which may be on constantly allowing use in pairs, alkaline, silver, hearing aid, or mercury button cells. I suggest you remove batteries when not in use. The electronics are aged, repair may not be available. If you don't require speeds below 1/30 use camera without batteries and meter with handheld exposure device.</p>

<p> Your camera has only one mechanical shutter setting: 1/60 second. All other speeds require fresh button batteries and clean battery compartment. Your image of shutter curtain tells me camera needs CLA to correct weak shutter.</p>

<p>Having used single weight light sensitive paper in a camera for the purpose of producing a negative, I sincerely doubt you can hand hold the camera! I was rating the paper at ISO 1!</p>

<p>It could be the adapter suffers from precise machining, if too thick or thin, accurate focus to infinity will be an issue!<br> Avoid calibrating the lens IMHO!</p>

<p>If they are to be sold to someone for display, whatever they offer for the entire lot, take the offer! These cameras frankly have very little value. There are so many quality vintage film cameras available for small money. Look for cameras that use 35mm or 120 roll film. Avoid all other film sizes. Look for twin lens cameras, rangefinder cameras, with multi speed shutters, good lenses, fixed lens or interchangeable lenses bodies. Avoid most folding cameras and ones without rangefinder or reflex viewing system. Look for shutters with Compur name, lenses with Zeiss, Skopar, Ektar, Hexanon names. Enough already, good luck enjoy the search!</p>

<p>I may be in error but Leicaflex SL and SL 2 require 2 cam lenses. Your 3rd cam lens may not meter properly as it is made for Leica R bodies and metering! I have and use Leicaflex SL and my lenses are 2 cam!</p>

<p>Photography performed by you at the direction of your employer indicated to me that the images belonge to your employer!</p>

<p>Position the lever to AV mode. Open back door to camera body, cock the shutter with advance lever and fire the camera while looking at the back of the lens to see if iris stops down for the exposure! Hope this helps to determine proper action. Next try it at noted shutter speed at TV setting too observe if iris diaphragm is same size.</p>

<p>Position the lever to AV mode. Open back door to camera body, click the shutter with advance lever and fire the camera while looking at the back of the lens to see if iris stops down for the exposure! Hope this helps to determine proper action. Next try it at noted shutter speed at TV setting too observe if iris diaphragm is same size.</p>

<p>I have a lens which rivals the Summicron in performace: the rare and pricey Konica LTM 50mm f1.9 Hexanon from the 1950's offered as an option on the Honor Leica copy camera made in Japan.</p>

<p>I and two friends have used Youxin to overhaul several Leicas over the last dozen or so years. Work has been successful, prompt and reasonable. I had a re-do done while I waited at no charge, a partial CLA done for chump change because of frozen machine screws, camera worked fine after same! Frankly, I'd not send my cameras elsewhere! The trio of Al, John, and Paul can attest to my comments.p</p>

<p>Look in owners manual on the 'net concerning operation of stop down sliding lever. This must be disengaged to mount FD lens on her camera.</p>

<p>Be sure to store the camera with the shutter cocked which is also the case with Rollei 35. Most other cameras are stored with shutter uncocked!</p>

<p>If you grid an 8x10 negative you'll get four images that contact printed produce four portraits so you can give three to friends and relatives. The values of these cameras can be determined by past auctions completed.</p>

<p>Looking at the camera body mount, make sure that the sliding stop down is not pushed in toward the lens mount. This may be the cause!</p>

<p>My Kodak 35 requires that you turn advance knob (very hard to do) although the way to a hard stop! The reason for this is the film passing over the sprocket actuates the cocking of the shutter! </p>

<p>Fotodiox.com has the adapter for m42 lens to ef body with provision for pin to be activated for stop down metering.</p>

<p>Take a meter reading, then open up one stop, keep shutter speed as before!</p>

<p>I use Olympus Pen F with 38mm f 1.8 with handheld meter Gossen SBC 9 volt battery, no needle, lights only. My other lenses are zoom 55-90, Vivitar doubler, T-mount for various lenses as well as Y/S 18mm Spiratone. This is my half frame kit, works well for me!</p>

<p>If the self timer got inadvertently charged and hasn't completed it's cycle, the camera will lock up! This applies to many brands and types of cameras.</p>