paul_wheatland

<p>In my humble opinion, only the Konica 24mm with adapter has any cash or performance value. The others have very little value either for sale or usefulness with your Canon 70d.</p>

<p>I am 74 and have cardiac issues since 1977. Walter, hope you are feeling better everyday. Try to keep smiling, taking pictures and moving. On the issue with Canon AT-1 and Canon lens, it should be impossible to mount or dismount the lens when aperture ring is on "A". You readers can tell me if I am correct on this observation!</p>

<p>Oil may damage the light trap!</p>

<p>I bought my S1 for $20 because it had a mirror stuck half way through the cycle. Fresh batteries and thorough cleaning of battery compartments brought the camera back to life. It is my daily driver. With manual focus lenses I use Nikon sb 15 strobe, with auto focus lenses mainly 28mm f2.8 af Nikkor I use Sunpak 355af strobe assuring TTL in program exposure. The camera with strobes tilting heads creates great lighting and great images. It is not a battery eater like other 15 year old early digicams.</p>

<p>I've had my medalist navy model for several decades. Notes to keep in mind: do not mess with toothed wheel on shaft, do not convert camera to 120, you will lose the film flattening caused by the spring loaded rollers, Don't bother with using single exposure back with 120 stockholder, enjoy the spectacular performance of the gauss formular optic a cousin to Heliar anther fine lens!</p>

<p>Sell them as parts or repair. Let the buyer have them fixed. You inherited the cameras. A CLA will be negative income stream to you, IMHO.</p>

<p>Try to store lenses upright with front optic facing up. This prevents oil and grease migrating from the helix to the iris assembly. As others have said, exercise not only the camera body but the iris and focus on the above stored lenses. Nothing is more frustrating than a faulty, slow reacting lens iris.</p>

<p>I bought a Nikkormat EL with 50mm f 1.4 nonAI. $40 USD a month ago, needs nothing and a Nikon FM with 50 f1.4 AI for $30 just before Dec 2015 with dented filter ring. They are out there! Owned a Kiev 19 years ago, highly NOT recommended IMHO.</p>

<p>Before you spend money on repairs, you need to consider film processing, slide mounting and mounts, cost of these supplies, services and availability. Keep us posted as some are interested in these answers.</p>

<p>Fred Sherfy in Pennsylvania wrote a book some years on Pentax, Asahi cameras. Either he or the book may contain the answers to your mystery half frame after market modification.</p>

<p>Try ac Moore, MICHAELS, or Joanne Fabrics brick and mortar craft stores. Sheet under $3.00, peel and stick or without, foam or felt all in black cut with scissors. I use these with success for light baffles.</p>

<p>I have and use the Olympus Evolt 500 with 8 mpx sensor. Yours is 10 mpx! It would be very expensive to modify your camera for a different sensor. What I did is buy adapters to use,Nikon, Pentax m42, and Leicaflex manual focus lenses to make the four thirds camera a more interesting camera. Remember the crop factor is 2x! Creativity works with this camera of yours, have fun.</p>

<p>Using and admiring for many years: 1959 Nikon F totally original including tick mark optic, 1976 Nikon F-2 was used in hospital lab, overhauled but then replaced by digital before it arrived in my collection, 1976 Canon F-1 from now digital user, 1968 Leicaflex SL with 50 Summi, and 90 from original retiree but bought in antique shop near Cape Cod. These are my favorite SLR' s</p>

<p>Cameras with swing meter arms and others with shutter blinds can be damaged by deep rear element wide angled optics. My advice is check prohibited lenses list not to be used on Leica M-5 in particular!</p>

<p>Free the battery cap with finger nail polish remover, tap the cap with tiny hammer to free frozen threads, clean battery box contacts, install px 625a or 625c or 357 with o ring spacer. The 50 f2 is the best and the cheapest.</p>

<p>Your best bet is Minolta X D 11 as they take (2) 357 button batteries dirt cheap on cards at flea markets. Also, can use MC or MD lenses on most shutter preference settings. I have even used program with MC lens even though not recommended. Aperture mode works with MC lenses and they in usual focal lengths, 28,35,55 and 135 are very reasonable in price with great build quality. The short time I used Minolta XD 11, I liked the camera a lot but did not want to build on another system as I am into Canon F-1 and Nikon F-2 systems and optics.</p>

<p>If your 90 Tamron has the adaptall m42 already in place, you will have all functions that you have with Pentax lenses. Otherwise what mount is on the Tamron 90 as we speak? If not m42 buy a adaptall m42 mount for your lens. Check the internet to see if your Pentax smc lens won't mount on the Ricoh. From memory there may be an issue involving a protrusion on the lens rear mount that interferes with non Pentax cameras!</p>

<p>My favorite combo is a rangefinder camera M-3 Leica with DR Summicron 50 f2 or a Nikkor 35 f2 either on F-2 or Canon F-1 with Canon f2 35mm. My back_up is Sony digicam</p>

<p>I use Millerslab.com in the Midwest for color print in 35 and 120. Great lab, suggest you check them out as they are first class They do not process c41 black and white, because I asked awhile back. They are very prompt and professional and help with mailing costs.</p>

<p>My two favorite simple bags are both soft, foldable, but made of heavy canvas originally intended as tool bags and have the shape of what in the day was referred to as a gym bag or a doctor's bag. One was vintage from a flea market with internal and external pockets with leather gussets and rivets plus a heavy thick comfortable leather handle. The other one is new from Sears Crafstman tool department on sale for under $10 USD. I often buy products and then repurpose for photographic use.</p>

<p>I use and enjoy medium format for shooting with film. I have no intention of using a digital back with my medium format cameras: Hasselblad 500cm with 80 and 150 lenses, Graflex Norita with 80 f2!, Rolleiflex 1939 no flash synch, Simmon Omega 6x7 from 1954. Caveat when entering medium format photography, 1/250 sec or higher to avoid shutter shake, limited depth of focus, film selection and ISO limited, film processing can be pricey as is scanning cost. I use Millerslab.com for all my 35 and 120 work as they are reasonable and prompt.</p>

<p>There was a particular Argus Model A with a two position lens barrel, a leaf shutter with 2inch f4.5 lens that in one position covered 3 feet to infinity, and pulled to second detent cover distance 15 inches to 15 feet. Because there was no rangefinder you needed to use handheld rangefinder or guess the distance.</p>

<p>I would be inclined to judge your Aires with Olympus to be as good as my Aires with Nikkor or with Coral, all similar to my prewar Rolleicord with lovely triplet albeit UN-coated! With years of downsizing, I now only have and use one TLR, a Rolleiflex circa 1939!</p>

<p>I have had two AE-1, A-1, and now have AE<em>-1program. Net</em>None had the Canon "cough" nor any other issues. My present Canon is AE-1Program and it's features to me override my objections to the other two models! Your camera malfunction is serious and expensive. Find a program model like mine, which cost me $30US a year ago, needing nothing! All Canons cost me less than $35US each within the last few years!</p>

<p>I have a Nikon FM. The ever ready case is model CS-12, soft leather two piece leather lined. I use it interchangeably with my Leica M-3 with lens and meter in place! I also have N2020 with AH-3 (also AH-2) tripod centering devices which serve the same purpose with my Leica M-3! Check junk boxes as I did to find, buy and use these two items, giving them multi use!</p>