paul_wheatland

<p>Resting the camera on a fence rail makes sense unless a vehicle goes by at that instant, then vibration might set in on the rail producing camera shake.</p>

<p>Being frugal, I solved my wide angle needs with existing lenses in my collection. I have Canon F-1 film camera. Using Canon converter model B and my 24mm Canon f2.8 breechmount FD lens or my 28 f2.8 Canon FD along with my Leitz screw mount to M mount adapter, I get really great images including infinity focus. There is no coupling to the rangefinder on my Leica M3 and my viewfinders are from other 35mm systems that slide into the cold shoe(nothing fancy). I can do the same thing with my Nikon lens to Leica screw mount converter and use my Nikkors of similar focal lengths 35mm, 28mm, 24mm and 20mm. These two manufacturers produce optics that for my money work very well using hyperfocal focus on Leica bodies.</p>

<p>I have a 14 year old Fuji S-1Pro that employs Nikkor glass and still produces fine pictures and doesn't seem to eat batteries. 3.4 MP is enough for me. My Nikon Coolpix 990 same age, same pixel count works beautifully and with slide/negative adapter, produces good digitized copies. My oldest film camera is 1932 Leica II with 1930 Elmar (11 o'clock version in flawless condition). I've take this one on vacation and not to worry about memory cards, batteries and chargers. My other camera is all original Nikon F from 1959, essentially "bullet proof" with rare f2, 50mm "tick mark" optic. Sometimes old is IMHO better but lacking in the "bells and whistles" which doesn't bother me one bit/ </p>

<p>I no longer use or own the 60 because I bought a Graflex Norita with 80mm f2.0, however when using the Kiev 60, I placed a length of masking tape on the paper leader once affixed to the take-up spool across the film gate, before advancing to the start arrows. This eliminated the spacing issues very nicely, others using the 60 might want to try this hint.</p>

<p>My choices are: Leica M-3 if you normally use 50mm, 90mm, 135mm lenses. If wide angle is your interest, go for the Leica M-2. Buy a user model and spend the money saved over a "pristine" collectors'camera on a CLA by any of the suggested technicians on photo.net. Invest in a good handheld meter, many found at decent prices, I prefer the ones that are powered by silver oxide button batteries, AA batteries or 9 volt batteries. Silicon blue technology is preferred IMHO over CDS meters. In a pinch I carry a Zeiss Ikon selenium meter or a slip on cold shoe Leica meter also selenium. My preferences tend toward Gossen meters, avoid those using banned mercury batteries for power. Whatever you decide the Leicas are almost "bullet proof" and long lasting. My oldest is a 1932 Leica II with 11 O'clock Elmar, optics, cosmetics and operation are flawless, albeit "squinty" viewfinder but a sports finder from a Retina solves that problem.</p>

<p>If you can tell us what the shutter is or is not doing, maybe we can help with a solution or advise that you need to send the camera out for repair. I would not attempt a CLA unless the shutter leaves are oily, than I have a remedy that may work.</p>

<p>Last I read, Bob Shell was subject to some legal issues. I always enjoyed reading his comments on photographic equipment and techniques.</p>

<p>The camera, the lens, the film/ sensor end up to be a tools, just as the brush, the canvas, the medium (paint) are tools of the artist. Once upon a time, a sports photographer left his pro camera in the bag and made images at an event with a simple box camera. Needless to say, the images were quite good for the sports page in spite of the simple tool but in the hands of an experienced photographer.</p>

<p>When I was into restoring vintage bicycles, I found brass wool available at marine supply stores excellent for scratch free cleaning of chrome parts. Don't scrub too harshly!</p>

<p>I have the N2020 with the hard to find AA battery conversion. It's an amazing camera as it meters with manual focus lenses and with SB-15 strobe TTL tiltrd up for bounce flash and 50mm f1.8 Nikkor using program mode one gets sharp, well exposed images. I paid $15 for the body, $7.00 for the AA battery conversion unit and $15 for N2000 with 50mm f1.8 Nikkor(not series E). Sold the N2000 for $30 with Series E 50mm f1.8. Film cameras are everywhere at rock bottom prices. I use Costco for soup, print and CD and when they stop, i'll go to millerslab.com out in the midwest.</p>

<p>I am using a Nikon Coolpix Model 990 from 1999! with the Nikon Slide and Negative attachment ES-E28 which attaches to the 37mm filter thread, I am able to digitize a negative in short order. Some hints: shut off automatic flash, set f stop to f5.6, use optical zoom to fill the frame, make sure camera is set to A mode with stepless shutter speeds to correct the exposure, and point this rig toward a bright outdoor consistent light (not into the sun). This image that follows was my initial attempt. I used an creative fun effects program that emulates a 1960's type image (even though I captured this image back in 2010. I am quite happy with the result! This also eliminated the orange cast found on the negative, which I cannot explain but works to overcome this issue. By the way the NCP990 close focuses down to 2mm!</p><div></div>