paul_wheatland

<p>I very much enjoy using my 45 f2.8p as it works beautifully on my film Nikons F,F2, N2020 and my Fuji dslr with Nikon mount. My interest lies in Manual Focus but availability of all modes and TTL strobe with electronic film and digital cameras! The unique feature when storing is protective filter, unusual lens shade and deep lens cap need not be removed only adding rear cap and using soft drawstring lens bag!</p>

<p>I have and use the 17, 24, 24-48, 35-70, 90, 135 all capable and because of adaptall mounts, I can use them on Leicaflex SL with rare adaptall SL mount R series won't clear prism, Nikon, and Canon fd tho my mount is marked FTb and doesn't work properly on A series Canon. I've been a fan of adaptall but not adaptamatic, very fiddly and gets out of synch too easily!</p>

<p>My experience shooting medium format color print ISO 400 6x6 negative: handheld shutter speed 1/250 or higher, below tripod needed to avoid shutter shake. Also depth of field is more shallow than with 35mm format, make appropriate adjustments. I've little if any experience with scanning but have used DSLR, copy stand and light box to photograph a negative and software to make and improve the image. Process is tedious and results are OK but not stunning!</p>

<p>This is what I like about this forum. We all get a chance to participate and gain new insights and solutions from each other. I may run a length of 35mm through my FED 50 automat to compare it to the Agfa Silette!</p>

<p>Should you do corrective surgery to remove the cobbled installation, be careful of debris falling onto the fragile first surface of the mirror.</p>

<p>I had cataract surgery and implants to correct for myopia and astigmatism. I opted for excellent distance vision knowing full well that readers would be needed for close up use! I am very happy with the results these last 6 years! It has made photography even more enjoyable.</p>

<p>Try the following: attach a Canon rear cap to the lens to get the lens re-set non mounted position. Before trying to mount, make sure stop down mechanism on the side of the body mount is out and disengaged. Now try to mount the lens!</p>

<p>My experience with this type of camera, there were many: Zeiss, Olympus Trip, Fed50 Automat, and others. Relying on aged selenium automation may or not produce proper exposure. With a missing scale and lack of speed and aperture controls, I would not use it for a trip! I'd leave it at the charity shop, just my opinion.</p>

<p>Sorry my immediate past post needs correction: shutter preferred should read aperture priority. Shutter Priority takes place when aperture is set to A and you select a specific shutter speed, camera then selects appropriate f stop.</p>

<p>I would look for a twin lens Rolleiflex or Rolleicord. Your budget allows for camera cost and over haul. Later models can be hand with prism but I prefer the waist level for unobtrusive image making!</p>

<p>Program setting becomes Shutter Preferred once you move dial from A to an f stop of your choice. If left on A and Program the camera selects both f stop and shutter speed.</p>

<p>It is a Simmons Omega made in Long Island City NY by the same brothers who made photo enlargers. It dates from 1954, produced (9) exposures on 120 film using 6x7 negative size. It had a unique parallax correction on its visual top mounted finder. As you focus from infinity toward closer objects, the finder tilts downward. The push pull action cocks the shutter and while film is transporting film past the gate, the pressure plate moves back and once stopped, the pressure plate moves forward. This design was later used by Japan to produce the Koni-Omega and Rapid Omega which retained the rapid push pull advance but introduced interchangeable lenses and allowed 10 exposures on 120. I've had my Simmons Omega for many years and even have the carry leather field case containing the rotating 6 shot flash bulb device plus the camera.</p>

<p>My favorite is diagonal split image center spot called model P, fits Nikons F and F2.</p>

<p>From past experience, I'd avoid the T90 (shutter magnet issues with dreaded trouble code "ee"and probably the F-1New 1981 version because of aged electronics. My sturdy camera is Canon F-1n second version 1977 totally mechanical!</p>

<p>Does the motor drive work NOT attached to your camera? This might eliminate the fault of the MD!</p>

<p>My Leica IIIc has the "No" with the (o) raised and underscored. So far your camera may prove to be genuine Leica!</p>

<p>My SL used to take a PX 625 now banned (mercury). I've been using 625A or 625S with success. A word of caution when storing camera without the battery. The cover has no shoulder and can fall into the battery chamber, I learned that when I first had the camera, it's one of my favorites!</p>

<p>The knob is very necessary. I had the kit many years ago. I would avoid using it for several reasons: you might forget to set the pressure plate and film would not lie flat, the counter knob is needed, all photos would be portrait mode, landscape mode would be awkward composing with WL view and reversed, small negative would result in crop factor of 1.5 based on 75mm focal length however this would work for portraits! I do stand by my opinion that this Rolleikin may not make good sense.</p>

<p>Bruce's image of two children from a Retina found film camera reminds me of Gene M postings which have not appeared as of late. </p>

Potato harvesting tractor reminding me of a go cart at the NEATTA show, Francis Farm in Southeastern Massachusetts back in 2012<div></div>

<p>I had great luck with auto touch-up named Toyota black. It seems plastic based dries incredibly fast, brush it with one motion, do not brush it back and forth. Use the brush in the cap which holds the paint in a skinny bottle shaped like a fat ballpoint pen. This works great for touching up scratch or chip. Good luck!</p>

<p>Look for a Konica TX with hexanon 40mm f1.8 lens. It uses one AAA battery available everywhere. With shutter speed you choose, ie film ISO 200 color print at 1/125 second you'll get a good f stop for color print film and you can visually focus. Camera made by Cosina for Konica with superb optic made by Konica. IMHO one of the most compact and quite full featured cameras of yesteryear!</p>

<p>I once substituted the pressure plate from a dead EM to an FG, perfect replacement, so door and base plate may prove to interchange both ways.</p>

I'd keep a mechanical Leica over one with electronics. I am slowly thinning the herd and keeping mechanical cameras. I see very little future for film cameras that rely on aging electronics.

<p>If your camera was sent from Russia or Ukraine along with a leather ever ready case, rumor has it that the tanning process involved pig urine. Whether that is true or not, it might answer the distinctive odor question. I read this on the 'net some years ago, do we believe what we read? Some reader may be able to verify!</p>