paul_wheatland

<p>I had that same Pentax spot meter and learned how to use it with modern batteries. I sold it on the auction site and the seller (me) and the buyer enjoyed a pleasant successful transaction. You need to ask the right questions Before You Bid! My auction experiences have been positive as a seller and buyer for over 10 years!</p>

<p>Avoid all m39 and L39 lenses on your Canon. The Jupiter 12 will break the mirror and ruin the camera as the back goes deep into the mirror box. The m and L 39 lenses will not make infinity or even close focus, only macro.</p>

<p>I remember the Olympus XA-4, 28mm on full frame 35mm film camera with fixed lens. I do not believe was widely sold nor available for many years. I also don't believe street photography to be widely popular as it may have been before the advent of the readily available multipurpose cell phone camera. Witness the number of people that I know who store on cell phone and share only, never print nor fill albums for future generations.</p>

<p>My advice to owners of fine expensive cameras such as M series Leicas is to have a professional technician or shop perform a comprehensive CLA to bring the camera back to original factory specification. It is well worth the cost and may not need be done again for many years in the future based on regular use.</p>

<p>I can't solve your immediate problem but I can address a convenient solution for the future. Take a 126 cassette and harvest the backing paper for your project. Using fresh 135 film in a changing bag, draw a length and attach it to the backing paper with a small strip of masking tape. You will get sprocket holes in the image. Actually looks kind of interesting. The sprockets may interfere with the stop mechanism on some 828 cameras. Use the red window and skip every other number so frames don't CLAsh. Keep the button depressed so stop mechanism keeps film advancing smoothly. Practise first with spoiled film and pencil to determine proper framing. Good luck!</p>

<p>Minolta, Mamiya, made small well designed, using adjustable f stops, shutter speeds using cassette contained 16mm film. Pentax 110 was a great system with interchangeable lenses, 18, 24, 50, 70 and a zoom. These cameras are readily available on the popular mega auction site and allow you to pursue this project.</p>

<p>To further examine this claim: this Kowa has a leaf shutter. A leaf shutter goes through more activations than a conventional cloth/ horizontal metal or a vertical cloth or metal shutter. It could be possible that the claim may hold true for leaf shutters. If one thinks about it, the leaf shutters actually work much harder with more opening and closing as the shutter and iris are the one and only combined device with the mirror acting as a blind.</p>

<p>I have owned several Contax pre and postwar. They all suffered from broken tapes. If the speeds above 1/60 operate, forget about using slower speeds. Repairs on Contax and clones are expensive and complicated for the owner to perform, IMHO!</p>

<p>Straight thread cable releases were used on Kodak and Polaroid cameras and lenses.</p>

<p>The last time I made a pinhole, I used thin aluminum such as you find on a soda or tonic(Bostonese) can. A piece that fits comfortably within a body cap works. First drill a pencil sized hole in the body cap as mentioned previously. With the round piece of aluminum, place it on a hard wood block. Strike the center with vigor with the ball of a ball peen hammer This thins the metal even more. With a number 10 clean sewing needle merely pierce the dent, do not run the needle through the hole. Remove the rough edges of the pin hole under running water with a fine grained wet stone (or oo sandpaper wrapped around a pencil } Just graze the ragged edge, work carefully. Check with a flashlight(torch) through the pinhole projecting the pin hole toward a light colored wall in a darkened room to check for roundness and no jagged edge. Use lamp black to cut down glare on the aluminum disk and then affix it to the body cap. Essentially this DIY pinhole should serve the purpose for little cost! </p>

<p>CORRECTION: later lenses are nFD and lack the silver BREECHING ring</p>

<p>1971-1975 some lenses had chrome nose with 55mm filter thread with silver colored breech ring. From 1976 to 1981 the chrome nose was discontinued, because of real or perceived glare. The lenses for 55mm breech mount lenses use w-55 for wide, s-55 for normal and t-55 for telephoto in the lens shade/ lens hood models and bayonet onto the front of the respective lens. The later lens are oFF, and lack the breaching ring and use 52mm filters. I hope this helps to identify the two systems although all lenses interchange with all Canon fd systems.</p>

<p>I have noticed that most people use 'phone cameras, share the photos electronically to relatives and friends. Because of this current use of photography, the services associated with the hobby and profession is fast disappearing from our way of life. Having spent using wonderful film cameras and now digital cameras as a serious amateur hobbiest, I truly miss it!</p>

<p>It could be Frank Marshman at Camera Wiz in Harrisonburg, VA USA.</p>

<p>I prefer the Leica M-3 or M-2 over any other Leica. They are timeless and can be repaired and don't use batteries. Digital cameras will be around for the future, they are all battery dependent and after a period of time are surpassed by newer models and eventually are economically not worth fixing, labor cost and no parts available. Just my opinion, others may disagree!</p>

<p>My favorite tiny lens is Nikkor 45mm f2.8P with contacts but manual focus only. Unique operates with all programs and has unique neutral protection filter, lens hood and cap that fits over the hood. Produced from 2001 to 2005 for FM2a manual film camera. I use it on a Nikon mount Fuji S-1 pro crop sensor with great results.</p>

<p>I used to re-spool a length of 35mm sprocketed film on to 828 spools in a changing bag using paper backing removed from dead 126 cassettes. If I remember correctly I would wind on using red window skipping every other number. Experiment u s ing this technique. Save the paper backing to be used over. Ignore the sprocket holes on the negs or make a mask. I also used this in tiny Kodak 0 135 s single speed box camera with DIY spools fashioned from 828 spools.</p>

<p>The micro Nikkor 55mm f3.5 is my choice for Flat Field, very sharp at all apertures. The 20mm f3.5 is wonderful but is not Flat Field, lacks contrast, May not be sharp at all apertures. This lens usually sells at $200+ used whereas the 55 often sells for under $100</p>

<p>Great little cameras with 16 exposures on 120 film. One caveat, the finder is a folding saddle design. With glasses if you wear them the rear section of the finder has annoying tilt if viewed too close, which irritated me enough to actually sell the camera ( not to worry still have others that are in my collection).</p>

<p>It's been mentioned that your camera is aperture priority. I believe this model has no automation. F stops and shutter speeds are are at the option of the photographer.</p>

<p>A friend showed me a Yashica SLR with a normal lens that was left in a cook stove oven for safekeeping while the owners were away. Upon return they cooked a roast for supper. The camera looked like it had been roasted also. Surprisingly it still fired(no pun intended) but optics and all controls were cooked beyond use. </p>

<p>One quick caution from past experience. Old vintage shutters have iris leaves of thin metal or shellac. If you use a solvent on shellac iris blades they will deform and deteriorate while you are cleaning them!</p>

<p>A prewar Leica II fills your request save for the strap lugs. The use of an M series bottom half leather case with an upgraded non leather strap works well even though slightly longer in shape. I use mine with a wrist strap from a motion picture camera. With a CLA these little Leicas are very quiet. I use a Retina sports finder with the 50 Elmar.</p>

<p>Many years ago, I made an adapter using A-A-A(3) batteries in tandem in a plastic tube assuming your required voltage out put is 4.5 volts??? I bought snap connectors and rigged end of tube with appropriate springs harvested from dead ballpoint pens to which the snap connectors can be attached. By the way I recently bought (12) cr123a titanium batteries if you go that route instead, for $15 with shipping from battery junction on the ' net.</p>

<p>Having owned several Rollei 35's, at some point in its life, the lens tube was retracted closed without cocking the shutter as is required. Unless you feel confident you may want to send it to a tech for estimate CLA and repair. I always liked these cameras using mine even last fall for a day trip to Boston's North End.</p>