User_6502147

The problem with auto-focus is that you are allowing the camera to dictate what should be in focus....vs you (as operator) to determine what subject should be in focus. The resulting images/video will be up to you. Les

Luis, do you want me to write a whole review ? That's pages!!! OK, I'll start with the size of the lens boards, they are ample size appx 107mm, tho the manuf specs shows 110. Nonetheless, my newly acquired Kodak Commercial 303mm resides on it without issues....and there is still several mm's of space around it. I could say the same thing about mounting lens on Copal #3. Anyway, the GG view (using Symmar-S 210) was gorgeously breathtaking > upside down or not :D. For time being, I have no way of knowing if the bellows are IR-friendly, but eventually I'll give a try with Efke. Oh, and I did get the 4x5 redux back, which may (also) help me to shoot some color. I was not able to get out there to do any testing yet, since I need a pile of lens boards to be made. Can't wait to burn up some curly maple :). Let me know if you have specific questions about this rig. Les

Anyone has an idea what happened here ? The image is 800 pixels on the long end. Les

Looks like this page is ultra long. Finally was able to load a photo (?) Something from Shun's neighborhood (Moss Landing). Les

Looks to me as 1938 Argus Model C... Can't verify that the info below is accurate....apply at your own risk. "The series began in 1938 with the Argus C, equipped with a rangefinder which was not coupled to the lens. Focusing a C is a two step process, first finding the distance using the built-in range finder, then focusing the lens by rotating it until a scale on the side matches the distance given by the range finder.Very early in 1938 the Argus production C cameras had high and low range shutter speeds marked on the speed dial, with a separate switch to select the desired speed range. The high/low speed selector was soon deleted from production, and speeds controlled by the rotary dial with 10 marked speeds. The C was replaced within just a few months by the C2, with a geared coupling between the range finder and the lens, greatly accelerating focusing and making the camera much more convenient to use. Finally, in 1939 the C3 was introduced, with electrical plugs on the cameras left side for a battery-powered flash, synchronized to the shutter. " Les

Well, I now own VDS 5x7 and it weights less than my 4.5 lbs CF Feisol tripod....I think with a lens attached :>). It took me 88 days to receive it. It's not for everyone....and it does not have the finesse of Arca, Sinar, Ebony, Lotus, 'Dorff, etc. However, it's mostly about the operator, eh ? Les

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Adrian, that should have been titled "OMG" :>)<div></div>

<p>Either macro Nikkor 50mm F2.8 or F3.5 (manual) would be fine and at reasonable cost...I use Tamron 90/2.8. You need accurate focus and AF (as in 'AF-D') would hunt needlessly.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Jacek, for that size either the nega or jpg would work fine. When you get up to larger sizes (usually bigger than 8x10) the quality, grain, etc will be far more noticeable. If you have many prints to be made, you may want to establish a "standard", which both you and the printer must abide, in order to have some solid consistency. </p> <p>Les</p>

<p>If you use macro, which in fact is the best way to go, take 4-6 shots, stitch them and you'll have plenty of resolution. You will have so much, that you'd need to reduce it to send it via email or move around computer. Ha, even older Elements can stitch photos quite well.</p> <p>Les</p>

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<p>No feathers, but a tree....</p><div></div>

<p>I guess you just have to follow your own bliss. Sometimes I use a monopod, but if the 200-500 is used, I'd take my (no mid column) Feisol CF is helpful and it's below 5lbs (hike friendly). It's about 26" long when folded, so it fits into my duffle bag. Prefer to keep it simple - using one tripod.</p> <p>Les</p>

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