elio_federico

<p>Thank you all! I'll try again with more shots!</p>

<p>Hi everyone.<br> A week ago I bought off eBay a Computrol 35mm Film Cassette Loader. The seller said that there was an unknown quantity of Tri-x 400 film. I was actually looking only for the Computrol but I though, if there's some film, okay. <br> Today I received the item and I shot 5 test shots, developed, black!<br> Before throwing the roll of film away I unrolled about half meter of film, discarded it and then load in a cassette +/- 15 shots. This time something came, but real cloudy (look at photos). <br> This time can't be a fixing problem. So must be the film. I guess the seller just opened the thing up to check... What do you guys think? To throw?</p> <p>P.S.: I have no idea how old the film is, could be looong expired.</p> <p>Here the shots. I didn't clean them so, sorry for the dust.<br> http://i60.tinypic.com/1zvuyp0.jpg<br> http://i57.tinypic.com/2yoxq1x.jpg<br> http://i60.tinypic.com/oqypv5.jpg<br> http://i62.tinypic.com/t5g1p5.jpg</p>

<p>Hi everyone. Sorry for my late answer but... work!<br> Anyway thanks everyone for the tips. The problem was indeed insufficient fixing!</p>

<p>Hi John,<br> I normally agitate continuosly for the first minute, then 10 seconds every next minute for 5 minutes. This always worked great on Fomapan 100.<br> When I finish the Kodak Fixer I'll switch to the Kodak Rapid Fixer.</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> I did use again the fixer and indeed now they look good!<br /> The only thing I noticed it's a "rainbow" effect on most of the shots... <br /> It's true that I'm inexperienced but this Tri-x gave me only problems.</p>

<p>Hi Alan, thanks for your answer.<br /> I followed the times of the Massive Dev chart and fixing time was 5 minutes, probably too short, I had to read the sheet of the Kodak Tri-x instead.<br /> I use the Kodak Fixer (powder for 3.8L) already diluited to make 3,8Liters, do I have to diliuite it more?<br /> The film it's already been cutted, can I, eventually, reload it in the tank and do this process in the tank instead of in a bowl? Is the first step (seasaw the film in clean water) necessary or I can just start with the fixer?</p> <p>P.S.: With this Kodak Tri-x I also notice that, once dried, the film curves towards the emulsion layer (not shiny part), I never had this problem with the Fomapan films, how can I prevent this? It's pretty boring while scanning, for solve the curving I have to reload the dried film in the tank spool and let it sit for some hours.</p> <p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>Double post.</p>

<p>Yes, that's exactly what I do! I repeat that I successfully developed 3 Fomapan rolls without any problem. Maybe you are right, can be a light leak.</p>

<p>Mmm, I didn't think about it before... How could this happen? At beginning I thought was dried water, but I use a wetting agent at the end of the wash.<br> Another scan: http://i57.tinypic.com/1g5d2d.jpg<br> And a photo of the negative (as you can see in the last frame they look like water drops): http://i59.tinypic.com/2lbc95w.jpg</p>

<p>Hi everyone.<br> I started not so long ago developing my own 35mm film. It's fun! I developed so far 3 Fomapan 100 rolls with success!<br> Today I developed a Kodak Tri-x 400 and I'm really unhappy about the results. At first the dryed film "bent" in itself, second on 80% of my pictures there's a whitish "cloud" on a part of the image. I have no idea what that can be, because I never experienced this with the Fomapan.<br> Here a picture with "the cloud":<br> http://i57.tinypic.com/35l96s8.jpg</p> <p>Thanks!</p>