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  1. If I had a plain M9, I might use it, until I have 3(!) M10s or 11s. Or instead of those, because I (whyever) might like to use it.
  2. Got an R5 & a Selphy. Waiting for better weather to ride to a real camera store, to buy card reader and EF adapter with dial. Maybe I 'll power her up and start out with dumb adapters for k & M mount, that I bought on ebay.
  3. @Kent T What size are those scans you are ordering from 35mm & 6x6? I can agree that film cameras felt a tad better than digitals now, thinking about shutter speed dials on M3 & 4-P vs. 8 & 9. But once I 'll learn to use my Gossen highlights in mind, shooting experiences should be almost a wash. As tiny as batteries might be; I bite my base plate less frequently than film shooters. - Each to their own!
  4. No Nikon guy. YouTuber Joe Edelman loved his rather inexpensive Tokina 100mm macro on FX bodies. - I think you can't go ENTIRELY wrong with any macro, but intending to shoot people in low light, you 'll appreciate a focusing range limiter switch. - My Pentax screwdriver AF 50/2.8 takes ages to hunt focus down to 1:2 and back to portrait range, without one. That sucks a bit. Get VR or whatever Tamron etc. might be calling their clone; you 'll ABSOLUTELY need it indoors! The Nikon DX's highest usable ISO is limited so you should buy that chance to handhold 1/125 sec. Check the Internet for AF speed related rants, before you buy a macro lens. I didn't get the EF 100/2.8 IS L for that reason. Only hear say about the f1.8 zooms: Excellent glass combined with erratic AF. No VR. = Surely no "beginner recommendation" from me. They might be OK or at least the best s*** on the market for bokeh shots outdoors, with a patient model and lots(!) of spray & pray. Or maybe they 'd shine on MILCs with eye detection AF. I am glad to not depend on them (besides that they don't come in k-mount). If I had to cover indoor events with my aging crop DSLRs: 12-24/4 for the few essential wide shots. - Early in the day? Flash? Tripod?... Sigma 24/1.8 (nothing to write home about, even on my low res bodies & way too bulky for my taste), 50/1.4, 135/2.8, Maybe Sigma 18-70 to get lazy with, later. 2 bodies still OK, another slightly predamaged, a 4th a little bit older than the others. All have IBIS but way slower AF than Nikon. For more serious work I 'd say "Sloppy FF keeps, what APS only promised". D750 & 24-120 should work. I have a 24-70/4 IS L and expect it to work well enough on my 5D IV. If needed, I 'll let the ISO skyrocket. I'd love to have a MILC for my 70-200/2.8 but know it will focus at f4.5 or smaller. 35/2 & 85/1.4, both IS, would be somewhat tempting, for really low light but might require MILCs behind them, to shine wide open. My casual(!) low light experience confirmed: Max ISO 10k, f2 glass and no OIS aren't enough, although you can occoasionally shoot something with that. As a bottom line: I wouldn't opt for a serious or final APS C kit, if I intended to get into the wedding business. IDK who, besides maybe Fuji is even offering an entire lens line for APS bodies, with stuff like a stabilized 24/2 and 14/2.8. I am also concerned about pixel density demanding quality glass that doesn't exist. Maybe dive into DxOmark and ood dpreview samples to figure out what could work for you.
  5. Just my 2 ct: Starting with your listed kit, I'd Scout the venue(s) to get an idea* of the light over there. Get a 2nd camera body, somewhat compatible with your lenses. Adapting them on a Nikon MILC seems OK, I would not try adapting non-Sony on Sony for weddings. Get 3 Nikon TTL supporting Yuongnos, maybe 3 packs of Eneeloops and 2 packs of low internal resistance NiMhs for those. + Gels to match 2 of them to the scouted available light. Maybe ponder a fast 24mm Yes, I skipped the rented 70-200/2.8 VR. They are heavy, not really "plug & play", if we are pondering shooting them wide open, at the long end and the D3200 might not offer AF micro adjustments? While tearing the aperture wide open gathers more light, maybe for kind of handholdable shutter speeds, it does eat DOF. Do families appreciate event photos "4 people framed, one of them kind of almost in focus"? Dunno what you ll' be doing, as what and where. I might end discussing "Which part of "No!" did you not understand?" with my "client", after step #1 above. There can be a "too dark for my weathered gear our expected results anything money could buy And to me it makes a difference, if I am just a guest, dabbling with my toys or "the one expected to deliver results". As the latter I 'd more likely insist on using flash. Good luck anyhow.
  6. Your "45" is a dumb 60, because it was made so early, that it felt normal to name it after its guide number for, back then default, ISO 50 film. I picked one up too. The isolation around cables on mine was scarily brittle, so I never used it. Battery might have been even a 6V 4Ah lead acid. With the "60"s Metz introduced 6V 4Ah Dryfits & 5 sub-C NiCd packs. I used to run my 60 CT4 + a 45 at 7V from a beefy HAM radio PSU. Charging current was pretty high to start with but dropped after a while, shorter than that minute you quoted. Sorry, I am no way "electrician" enough to understand how your unit should be working / behaving &/ what exactly might be wrong with it. Is @rodeo_joe still around & able to jump in? My advice from the gutt: "This is a display only item. (& scarily dangerous to use)" But maybe you bought a miracle.
  7. @Robin Smith No clue about TVs, I have neither, nor family. But I'm kind of determined to build a lame "green" and a hotter gaming / editing PC, to use my 27" screen again, for image viewing, Retina iMacs feel outside my reach. But yes, tablets are great for infotainment, I 'm on one too.
  8. I 'd love to be able to fill at least an entire 4k screen with mine, so they should be 8-12MP. Taking a low res camera on vacation would suck, unless I made thumbnail publishing my profession. I don't want / buy cell phones but respect their capability. Its not my job to understand how computational photography benefits from even more blurred pixels, but I 'd guess it does, slightly, at least in some odd use case. Data? - Why should those bother us? A 256GB micro SD sells for 15€. Phone shooters will most likely write JPEGs and why shouldn't their computational magic compress data junk to presentable results? If we could buy 200MP backs, for our MF (/LF?) beaters, to write RAW + JPEG, storage might become a bit of an issue but would still be dirt cheap, compared to film.
  9. Ask your locally active insurance providers for their small print and later for every imaginable detail, you don't understand, before you buy anything. An all risks covered policy would cost me 2.6% for Europe or about 3% for whole world (without under water). Dunno what YOU call "travelling"; I 'd hop on my bike and snooze in my tent. An insurance NOT covering theft out of hard paniers & closed unattended tents would be USELESS(!) for me. - With digital nomad allures / capability (like 3 months on the road every year) I'd buy one. OTOH: Being not sure if I'll travel at all in a given year I'll feel like taking serious* equipment with me Burning 1€+x/day on insurance doesn't look like the smartest move. (<-"whatever you 'll do is wrong") I haven't spotted a "full(!) service" gear insurance yet, that will organize shipping replacements worldwide, like better roadside assistances are promising. With stuff that gained value between used purchase and loss, I 'll also be out of luck. *= I don't disencourage anybody from taking gear on a trip, but maybe we make up our minds about "darn old APS beater with touristy zoom" being hopefully good and surely heavy enough. I still own what I declared my "sod it"-35mm kit during the 90s, what got me into digital, what I considered dispensable workhorses at least 5 years ago and two other choices, that would keep me clicking. Packaging that stuff and having a spare key holder mailing it to me seems "problem solving" plus also decluttering. - Why insure, what won't break my neck? People, their wealths and ambitions vary. I neither have a 200-400/4 x1.4, nor funds for a little wildlife workshop in Africa and IDK if I even know people to whom I could present 4K stills, to hear: "You should have brought the other system, look at that soft corner".
  10. "Stay @ home!"? Make up your mind between available high price solutions. Cosina / Zeiss VFs are nice to look through; I have the 21mm version. OTOH using them with the built in RM takes time / drill. Maybe your(! - surely not my...) love for 28mm justifies buying a body with ultra low VF magnification, to be outed with others, since it will suck behind longer lenses? Recentish a la carte Leicas or some Cosina come to mind (in case wemare still talking film). They 'd allow usage of flash and VF at once. Maybe go for convenience with a digital finder or a (preferably flippy) rear screen? - Q? / MILC of choice?? / M(2**)s, 10, 11? Depending on your subject choices you might even be able to cope with an SLR. Sorry, my only 28mm-like Leica or RF combo is ZM 21/2.8 & Soviet turret finder on M8 with 1.33x crop; "Somewhat useable", surely not great, especially my specimen of that finder. I can't afford overly much Leica gear, so I'm sticking away from whatever smells like no fun. YMMV.
  11. Forgot to add: Some pro shop in a neighbor city offers cleaning services. Those might be a reason to shop there, if everything costs the same everywhere anyhow. If you are keeping gear long enough for warranties to expire, figure out who 'll do your repairs. Dealing with a shop that lets you rent before you buy, free of charge, IF you buy, might be nice.
  12. I 've only stumbled into one at London and forgot it's name, since I didn't move there. Reliable, trustworthy and helpful? We had a big state wide selling one here. After reading too much Ansel Adams and spotting a used Arca Swiss, I went there, in 2001, inquiring the cost of film. The sales gal in front of the fridges referred me to the head of their film department: "Hm, Kodak make film, but I can neither order, nor even tell a price". OTOH they had decent staff and nice prices too. Another dealer was eager to arrange repairs and mark up the cost, according to a Pentax rep, I met elsewhere. Right now I am locally down to an electronics mall's photo department. The guys there are at least honest, on a "Dunno, I shoot Sony" base and(!) helpful enough to tell me how and where to do my homework on the Internet. Once I 'll know if & what I want, they 'll try hard to make a competitive offer. Or tell me to go home and mail-order Yuongnos instead of branded speedlites. What flavor of reliability are you looking for? - Can there be such a thing, when DHL handle the shipping? - Ordered a camera, got parcel tracking code but tracking did not work. Are you going to become a serious wedding shooter, who online orders replacements, whenever he needs to take his backups out of the trunk on Sunday and freaks out if they don't arrive on Tuesday? Or are you concerned about photo finishing services? Bottom line: Nothing beats digging through bargain bins in person. Brick and mortar stores cater their local non-markets cheaper than auction sites. Accept having to deal with horses for courses. You are digital enough to be here, so try to spot sufficiently trustworthy gear reviewers elsewhere online. - No retail slave, shooting the other brand, can do your homework as well as you.
  13. I might have subscribed but didn't activate notifications. - I think its a "have fun with yesteryear's equipment" channel? - Why watch, when all I need to do is grab some pieces and take them out? YMMV and I apollogise for my quick reply, fired from the hip. But you type "*one line of question, broader than a barndoor*" and want me to watch 6h of YouTube, to come up with an answer, you weren't looking for? - Linking one video and telling on which statement in it you are still chewing would be more productive. If the gear he mentiones is within your budget and his results and workflow look like what you could love to do, follow him. But thats true for almost every photo-YouTuber. If you already have something else, try to shoot that. Either it works for you or it sucks and only then(!) it is time to seriously ponder replacing it.
  14. I think you have to multiply the aperture setting for a similar 35mm shot with 1.25. Considering that 28mms tend to be not overly fast (Pentax f3,5, EF f2,8 IS, Soviet RF f8, Leica rerunning an f5.6) we might miss the chance of selective focus to be had with a somewhat common 35/2 or f2.8.
  15. If DOF differences don't matter, yes. Cropping will get you more.
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