Fiodor

Previously, I tried this Sigma lens twice with the adapter and the XT3, and I wasn’t able to stop down. But now I can. And I realized that the lens must be inserted only when the adapter ring is on one side (and not on the other side). Both times I tried previously, I imagine I must have inserted it with the ring on the wrong position. I really don’t know if that is possible. But if it is, I did in a way that pushed the lever in a way that block or cause trouble to the lever. I am just guessing… But the important thing is that the problem was solved. Thank you!

Thank you! I tried the lens with a Nikon D80 and first, I didn’t get different exposures when I changed the aperture (I have to set the aperture ring at 22 and then dial the aperture on the D80). The EXIF was recorded with different F number, but the exposure was the same. But then, after some photos and fiddling around with the manual/auto focus switch, the problem was solved (now the aperture changes the exposure). So, after that, I removed the lens and I could see the diaphragm at the aperture set on the aperture ring. I discovered the lever, which I didn’t know before, and if I push the lever, the diaphragm opens. So… Should I try the lens again with the adapter and the Fuji camera? Is the adapter doing something wrong to the lens?

I just saw that when I turn the aperture ring, I don’t see any diaphragm closing in the lens. The adapter I have can work with Nikon G lenses (without aperture ring) by changing the position of a ring. But this Sigma lens can’t stop down even if I change the position of that ring (it is not a G lens, it is something different). So, I guess it is impossible to stop it down…

I have this adapter FotodioX Lens Mount Adapter for Nikon G-Type F-Mount Lens to Fujifilm X-Mount Camera and I can use Nikon AF lenses on my Fuji XT3 and change the aperture with the ring. But I can’t stop down this AF Sigma lens for Nikon Sigma Zoom Telephoto 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG Macro Autofocus Lens for Nikon AF-D It is always at the wider aperture. What is the Sigma lens lacking? Can I do something to make the aperture ring work?

I forgot to mention that I record 4K video, which is more demanding for the camera. And the original batteries are NP-W126s, with an S at the end, which apparently are more efficient to record 4K video. But the Watson which swelled is just NP-W126, the older model. But in this case, I don’t know if it is about the S, or about the general quality. In the comments of this article TESTED: Third Party Fuji Batteries? "Inflated capacity values. Some batteries almost Fraud!"... and the Winner is...? - Fuji Rumors, someone wrote: “The swelling could be due to charging the Wasabi batteries in the Fuji charger. ONLY charge batteries in the charger from the same manufacturer. We have used a mix of factory and Wasabi batteries for years with no problems. We never cross charge between devices. The internal charge rates and peak cutoff are different. That swelling was caused by overcharging which can cause a fire and/or explosion.” What do you think? If I buy new a third party battery, should I buy also a charger from the same brand? Maybe I could buy a set, 2 batteries and charger.

Not as far as spinning, but when I compare the battery to others I have, all on a flat surface, it is a tiny bit swollen at the center on one side. Terrific idea, how bright some people are :D Thank you, everyone.

It sounds “tempting”, for the sake of recovering the battery. But isn’t it dangerous? Also, I don’t know if it is good to turn on the camera if the battery is a bit swollen. I think the battery got swollen after charging it (could I have “overcharged” it?)

Hi Sandy. Yeah, I think I will have to replace it. And I could contact Watson, good idea.

It looks the same as other batteries I have, I don’t see the slightest difference. However, it should be a tiny more enlarged somewhere. I can insert the battery, it touches a bit the wall of the compartment. But to take it out is difficult, I have to use tweezers and I don’t like the idea of doing this. It is a Watson battery for my Fuji X-T3. I am not sure if the battery changed its size, or I had never used it and it is a manufacturing defect. Can I do something to reduce the size of this battery (if it is enlarged, it is just a fraction of millimeter)?

Hey, how are you? Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I cleaned a bit more the contacts with isopropyl alcohol but I haven’t been able to turn on my Sunpak flash. So, maybe I will ask a repair service if it is possible to fix it. Why do you think a dead capacitor means the end of the flash? Because repairing it is as expensive as buying a new flash?

I have isopropyl alcohol and a contact cleaner (and lubricant). Could I clean the contacts with one of these products? Here are some photos. Look that there is a bit of green in some borders. It is subtle, and I don’t know if that is just the glue or something which is not wrong. It is a relatively new flash, bought like 10 years ago. And yes, last years it hasn’t been used (I don’t remember when was the last time I fired it).

Thank you for the messages. I found out that my Nikon SB-23 didn’t turn on either, but I cleaned a bit the contacts with a cotton bud moistened with apple vinegar. And apparently this is what made the flash work again. But I still haven’t had luck with my Sunpak. I cleaned the contacts with vinegar and also with a pencil rubber (and by the way, the inner contacts are tiny springs, difficult to clean, and it is impossible to rub them with a pencil rubber without damaging them). I also tried with a new set of non-rechargeable batteries. And I turned the flash on and off for some minutes. I don’t know how much time I should do this routine, which implies that I spend time doing this and have my hands occupied with this task.

It’s a Sunpak PZ42X. It was in a cabinet for months without being used. Now it doesn’t turn on. I changed the batteries, to no avail. What could be the problem?

I want to buy two or three ND filters, especially for video. Right now my largest thread of lens is 58mm. But it is not impossible that one day I buy another lens with a bigger thread. Do you buy filters for your largest thread, o for a bigger one? The reasons for buying bigger ones would be: 1- In case you buy other lenses with a bigger thread in the future; 2- To avoid vignetting (really?). I am not sure about the second reason, because if the filter is just a bit bigger, let’s say a 62mm for a 58mm lens, used with the appropriate adapter, I have the impression that there will be more vignetting than using just a 58mm filter (because of the increased distance to the lens produced by the adapter). And what about if the difference is bigger, let’s say a 77mm for a 58mm? Yes, I could try the filter personally before buying. But if I buy online from a foreign shop, that is not possible. A reason for buying filters of the same thread is that usually filters are more expensive when they are larger. And sometimes the difference is BIG. For instance, this filter B+W 58mm XS-Pro MRC-Nano 806 ND 1.8 Filter (6-Stop) costs $80 for 58mm and $180 (!!) for 82mm.

I don’t know how the NDs of your cameras work like. You could record some video with and without ND and compare them. The only thing I know about Sony and NDs is that a couple of times I shot with cameras like the Z1, a semi-pro HDV camera, and I used the ND. I never did a quality test, I just used the ND to shoot with a wider aperture, and it worked fine. But I guess a Z1 has nothing to do with your camera, which I think is a pocket one. Just try it. I wish my Fuji X-T3 had built-in NDs.