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Found 17 results

  1. Hi, I am thinking of buying multiple 100ml bottles to store HC-110 so that I can improve the longevity of the chemical. I was wondering if anyone has tried using medical sterile vials such as these. I am thinking of using a syringe to extract the chemical whenever I need. Do you think these bottles prevent air contact? Or the pores in the rubber are not good enough to keep the air away. Thanks for your advice :)
  2. Hi Everyone, I had a question about the new (thinner, not the syrup) HC-110 formula. I bought one recently and when I store it for a few days, I start seeing some dark brown sports inside the bottle. Does anyone know if this is normal? Why is it forming these spots? Thanks
  3. Hi, I am planning to start developing some Ilord HP5+ films soon and deciding on which developer to buy. I am deciding between Cinestill DF96 (for convenience) vs Ifosol-3 vs D-76 But I am open to any suggestions that will give me nice contrasty images.
  4. I shot a 24 count roll of Fomapan 100 using my new (to me) Leica If. I used my Voigtlander Heliar 15/4.5 and an Orange Nikon filter. Here is where the problem was. I rigged the filter such that I sorta knew I screwed up the entire roll. It was too small and I used an adapter to pressure fit it within the little lens hood. Since I was sure the shots where messed up, I decided to see if my 3 year old Diafine was any good. I made it up in 2018, used it one time and stored it with the air squeezed out. Long story, short, the Diafine was FINE and all my shots have a black circle around the subject, thanks to my dumb filter idea. I tossed the Diafine and ordered some more and some 52mm filters. No sense in pushing my luck.
  5. I am absolutely loving the direct poitive paper from ilford, it is great fun. I was wondering if anyone knew of any other positive paper that might have ahigher iso or whether theres a way to maybe create something similar which has a higher iso. Also wanted to know this. Is there a way to use a monobath with paper? I know they exist for film negatives but was interetsed to know if there was a monobath for paper. Also whats the difference between developing negatives and paper is one stronger in development than the other?
  6. Hello, Recently I have run into an issue with some of my prints. When preparing to enlarge I try to dust off my film strip but still somehow I get specks of dust on my prints. Are there any tips or tricks to help with this? I usually use air and anti-static cloth.
  7. Hello there. I'm having some problems while developing my black and white film. I'm new at home developing and I developed 5 rolls so far. They all looked good fresh from the development tank but today I was scanning them and I notice theres a general lack of contrast and dark and sometimes light beams of light coming from the sprocket holes. I'm using a 2 roll Paterson tank. I use LC29 as a developer and also Ilford stop bath and fixer. My film is all HP5 at its 400 normal ISO. I develop for 6:30 min, stop bath for 30 seconds and fixer for 5 minutes with a 1 minute prewash before everything. Everything exactly as MassiveChart and Ilford suggests. I agitate 10 seconds at the start of every step and every minute after that. I agitate slowly rotating the tank over itslef and twisting it at the same time. As you will see on the images below theres a general lack of contrast and a lot of foggines... also parts of the images seem more develop than others, apart from the darkness following the sprocket holes.. I did some research and I found that it can be because of a lack of proper agitation (maybe my slow rotating movement is not enough to get fresh developer everywhere so parts gets underexposed) But I also read that the white beams over the sprocket holes can be caused by over agitation so the two solutions seem contradictory. I would highly appreciate any feedback you have to offer as I dont like the idea of keeping "badly developing" rolls of film until finding the solution. Thanks in advance to everyone!
  8. Hi guys, Good day, there. I have been developing my own BW film for some time now, and have recently acquired an old basic enlarger which I want to give a try. Now I have "fixed-up" most things that needed attention, and it is time for the rubber to meet the road. For film, I an inclined to now graduate to D-23 , made at home (vs. Caffenol which I have successfully used till date). The question is, could I use the D-23 for developing silver gelatin based Paper as well? I did not find much resources on the web discussing this, as people rarely seem to be discussing Paper Developers (side note: people have used Caffenol for Paper btw). The consensus, from what I found out, was that normally paper developers tend to be faster acting, and hence will develop films with higher contrast. And here, D-23 seems especially known for producing slow and relatively-lower-contrast negatives. Conversely, thus, a film developer recipe should produce lesser contrast for paper development – which seems to be an undesirable way to go about printing...?! Or not? Please advise. Further, I have found that most Paper Dev recipes require addition of Hydroquinone – which I would need to go out and get from the city center, and I stay far. [Is it a must-add for paper development? And if yes, what could be the alternatives?] At the moment, the priority is just to get my feet wet asap, as I am in the mindset to give this a go. Was going to get Ilford PQ Universal from a local dealer (heard it can also cook films pretty well – some say a little grainier); but he is out of stock, and will get stock in another ten days or so – to far out to start, for me. :D Another conundrum is that I have some really old local-brand sachets of universal film and paper developer at hand, in powder premix form. But they are now so old, that the each sachet has turned into a big solid bricky lump. Should it be worth it to break them, and brew in some warm water (instead of making some developer)? [Also, they also seem to prove a point that paper and film developers can be the same.] While on the subject, how about D76 for Printing? I know I am asking too many things at once, and going all over the place. Kindly excuse me for the same, in lieu of my excitement and tangentially limited options. Eagerly looking forward to your kind and able guidance! Best regards, Paresh
  9. Hi! By accident I got paper developer instead of film developer (ADOX Neutol Eco), but now I'd like to use it anyway. I read that it is possible to develop film with paper developers, so I'd like to ask you for details. Could you recommend me dilution & temperature & time combinations, which already worked for you? Thanks in advance!
  10. I shot off a roll of high resolution cms20 ii film exposed at 10 iso and processed it in rodinal at 1:500 dilution at 17 degrees C for 2hours using stand development. I wanted to see whether I could get a range of tones without using the expensive adotech IV developer. The negatives were very thin and the developer exhausted itself in the highlights giving a brown colour to them. However the negatives exhibited a good tonal range. I have attached a photograph taken with my 100mm macro rokkor at f/8 with flash lighting of a hoverfly on a native (Australian) white frangipani flower.
  11. I bought a 100ft reel of 40 year old Kodalith Type 3 recently, I've yet to test it and find out how low to rate the speed after all this time, but assuming it still works I wondered what other members experiences with lith film and different developers are. I've bought some Adotech IV developer just out of curiosity to see how this low contrast developer works with Kodalith. Has anyone else tried Kodalith and Adotech, and what kind of results did you get? I will try it myself at some point just to scratch that itch, but I couldn't find any net reference to experiments with this combination. Any photos using lith film with different developers would be appreciated.
  12. Since the only available way to get Phenidone near me (without import issues) is buying 1 litter bottles it seems to be way too much developer so I need to know a few things: Will it last a some years before expiring? How should I store it once and everytime I get a portion out of it in order not to get it damaged by oxygen or other agents? Should I place marbles inside the bottle to top it not allowing air inside? All comments are wellcome!! tcdp
  13. Hi, I'm new here, and pretty new to film development overall. But I wondered if anyone knows what might have caused these peculiar spots on my negatives. The strange thing is that they have a definite shape - they look like tiny butterflies or four-petalled flowers. They are dark on the photo, so light on the negs. You can see them if you zoom in to the areas of sky. A bit of data about the shots: Kiev 88 with Zodiak fish-eye lens Fomapan 200, in-date, stored in refridgerator since purchase. Developed with Ilfosol 1+9, 6 mins at 20 degrees C Scanned with Epson 600, 3200 dpi. The developer was fresh, as was the stop bath, but I've been running my fixer down. I did check it cleared a bit of flim leader in < 3 mins and then left the actual film for over 10 mins. The camera has been tested before, and I developed a (supposedly-identical) film using the same technique (but different camera) just a week ago, which came out fine. I haven't used the Zodiak lens before, though. Any ideas very welcome! I'd rather not spoil another roll like this. Thanks, Michael.
  14. Hi guys, These rolls have found their way into my possession. One roll is believed to be un-exposed (the brown roll), while the rest are supposed to be exposed. I'm curious how i can figure out each roll's ISO sensitivity so that i can suggest the proper developing process to the lab technician. I've brought old rolls in before and just said idk try something, and of course it came back blank. So, i'd like to try my best to identify everything before sending them off. None of these rolls say ISO sensitivity. Some suggest a certain developer process on them, but i don't know whether or not that notifies you of the ISO sensitivity, or if that process covers all ISO's. Anyways, if you guys could help me identify the correct process i'd need to develop these, that would be awesome! Thanks. P.S. sorry for the odd picture sizes, just haphazardly threw them together for comparison.
  15. Hi, just picked up a Flexicolor F1 kit and was preparing to mix, but discovered that Kodak didn't label the bottles the same way they are referred to in the Z101.pdf. (Z101 refers to them as Part A, B, C, while the Flexicolor box is only labeled Part 1, 2, 3, 4) Can someone tell what bottle is Part A, B, C of the developer? I guessed, Part 3 = Part A, Part 4 = Part B, and Part 2 = Part C, but I'd like to be sure. Thanks, Marcus
  16. Is there anyone, anywhere, who knows of an organization that will develop ECN-II (Seattle Film Works)? Failing that, is there anyone who is aware of a kit or source for chemicals that one might use at home? Lou Lohman
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