henry_finley1

This is a pretty old thread. Today I was working on my Luna Pro, and its been years since I last worked on them. So I had forgotten. The meter switch on the right side opens a needle trap so the needle can swing freely. Once you take your reading you let go of the switch and the needle gets trapped at the reading you took. But here's my question I can't remember. Does that switch turn the meter on and off too? Or is the meter always on and depends on closing the case to preserve the battery? Thank you.

Well if anybody else can pick up the ball and answer, I'd be appreciative.

I am responding to this 2006 post in 2021 and I wonder if Randall Ellis is still here to answer some questions. If so it ismany years later. May I ask you to go on ebay and find a link for me for a sureyors tripod like yours? And how do you affix the Bogen head to it? I have a Horseman 8x10. The heavy one wit the big heavy L shaped arms. But I am converting it to a lighter field camera by modifying it to be rid of the big heavy L arm on the rear standard. All I have is my Tiltall, and it isn't going to cut the mustard. Thank you.

I'm considering a Gossen Pilot that looks pretty nice, but my question is whether you can open it up and calibrate it. Thank you.

When you buy from overseas of fleabay, they are betting that you don't want to pay the return shipping.

It was called Kodak Studio Proof paper, which was discontinued in the late 70's if I recall. Too bad. I had previously used some and liked it.

I wonder what the maximum size film is on an Ansco Dark Room Light Box Model 110?

Attached are a couple photos of the Kodak Photo Hobby Printer, which was supposedly sold for beginner use back in the 40's or 50's. As I look at it, it's laughable. But maybe somebody else knows something I don't know. One light bulb at one end of the box. And while this one seems to be missing its glass, I happen to know they were sold with clear glass, not opal or frosted. I also suppose the printer was meant to be used with something like Velox paper, which was a slow chloride paper discontinued many years ago. But even with that, it seems like there would had had to be a terrible hot-spot in the print. No evenness in lighting at all. I'd like to hear other opinions. Is this a piece of junk that Kodak should have known better than to even market at all?

There is a diode in there. I tested it and it tested fine, so I left it in.

I'm seeking best advice on the handling of Arista EDU 400, 4x5 in Adox Rodinal, or Adonol, or whatever they're calling it now.. The Arista PDF is one page and makes scant distinction on the processing method or the film size. I'm hope to locate an experienced user of the combination that can give time and temperature from 68 to 75 for tray, as well as preferred dilution. Naturally I have access to the usual online info, but things like the massive developer chart and such are sketchy at best. Further, they only include a single temperature. I'm hoping for experienced advice from an actual user that I can pass on to a good buddy who is interested, with confidence. Not "a basic starting point". My friend doesn't have the temperament for experimentation. For myself, I'd like to know too. Thank you.PS, in case I hit the jackpot and find somebody who can give tray AND tank-and-hanger, then all the better.

I'm curious as to what the technology of the early electronic flash sensors was. As far as I know, the Honeywell Srobonars of the early 70's had their Auto Strobonars, as far as I knew in 1971. Or was it earlier? There were the Sunpaks,, Vivitars, Metz, and probably gobs of other manufacturers offering automatic flashes back then. Was the sensor just a variation of the CdS cell as used in the camera TTL meters? I remember in the mid-70's when the "silicon blue" technology started becoming all the rage. Lord only know what it is now. But I'm talking about the old flash sensors of a Honeywell 770, for instance. Was the flash sensor just a CdS cell? The reason I ask is that the reaction time, memory, and failure rate (lifespan) of CdS mete rcells is widely known. I have a Gossen Luna-Pro, which serves me well. But you have to hold down the on switch for a few seconds before the meter rises all the way. So what was in the early electronic flash sensors? Thank you.

Well my last post on Oct 17 expressed doubt about how long the batteries would last. Here is is Oct 28 and they still work. The camera has mostly sat because I haven't finished up my Strobonar 770 project to go with it. I'm expecting those 4 sub-C's any day so I can get that going. And in the meantime I'm fabricating a flash cord. For that, I'm turning down 1 inch pieces of 10 gauge copper wire from 10/3 Romex, to fit the camera sockets. That idea seems to be working out so far too. I chose the Strobonar because the rings from a Graflite fit it perfectly. I suppose that's what Honeywell had in mind when they invented the Strobonar.

I ordered some sub c cells today for this 770, since it seems to be in working order. The reason I bought it was to replace my 682S, which has more features including thyristor operation. But the 682 developed a curious problem, and I think it has something to do with the electronics and not the capacitor. On that one, the green light comes on as soon as you turn it on, and stays on. I can hear the whine, but the orange ready light will not come on. And the flash flickers sometimes, and even sets itself off. Strange problem. I fear a transistor or SCR has gone bad, but I can't find a schematic on it so I can troubleshoot it. So I guess it's toast. It will flash when you push the test button, but the orange ready light won't light. I know it's not a bad bulb, because it HAS lit a couple times. The reason I want a Strobonar is because the Graflex flash holder rings fit them. It's for my Super Graphic.

I thank you for the caution, but I am also a radio man. I've dealt with capacitors that hold enough juice to kill King Kong. And you're right. They can be very nasty little things. I've got a buddy that had a Kenwood 1000W linear. I refused to work on it and finally convinced him to sell it rather than trying to mess with it. The flash actually seems to work with the Honeywell charger. But I've only had it a couple days. And I figured if there was a secret to getting the end cap off the case, as long as I was in the neighborhood, I'd give it a look-see. I have no idea what the ratings are, but figured new caps might be smaller and I could find a new one to go it, just to put that issue to rest.

As an aside, I wonder how to get the bottom end cap off of the case to extract the big capacitor. As long as I'm in the neighborhood, I'll bet there's a way to replace that thing.