walter_degroot

<p>before walmart moved, I asked for a bunch of used dx coded cartriges.<br> eash has a little tongue of film sticking out.</p> <p>some of my t series canons. and most of the plastic P&S are motorized.<br> my old technique of wrapping scotch taps around the spool is not possible.</p> <p>any suggestiona as which taps would work best?<br> I was thinking of very sticky packing taps.<br> or possibly painters masking taps.<br> remember this is a rural area and I do not have many choices<br> walmart grocery and hardware stores.<br> I am in ( you will ask) n e pennsylvania.</p> <p>yes we have a coal mine and a tractor supply.<br> but farm and family is not in outr area.<br> -- just to tell you the kind of place it is.<br> is there a medical-type tape I could get from my VA MVC?</p>

<p>MY experience is with c-41 color negative film.<br> I had a 20+ year old exposed roll that behaved normally.<br> no fog or strange colors.<br> it had been exposed at box speed and stored at variong room temp.<br> Color slide film , they tell me, loses speed over time.<br> this may be related to the narrow latitude of slide film.<br> Since you are more or less performing an experiment, not shooting a wedding or other event.<br> enjoy and report the results.</p>

<p>I had a short fasination with leaf shutter slr's<br> the limitations ( limited choice of focl lengths)<br> and later a comment that some contaflexes had a pantar lens that was NOT great.<br> My interest in the Kodak retina reflex lasted longer.<br> I eventually went the other way.</p> <p>I even looked at the DeJur Dekon.<br> and saw it as a handy small slr.<br> found out later is ws made by topcon.<br> but there was a reliably to consider.</p> <p> </p>

<p>if this really causes problems for you- here is a suggestion.<br> I was happy with my other cameras intil a friend gave me an ae-1. I used it to shoot a wedding taking advantage of the auto settings.<br> Later, when this friend became gravely ill, he sent me many canon FD cameras. Both a and t series.<br> I look at ebey for a few bits and pieces.<br> I see that the ae-1 as well as other canon FD mount cmeras sell very inexpensively.<br> I have a t-50 which has a metal shutter and two t-70's that are prectically being given away.<br> consider buying another camera such as an ae-1 ae-1 program or a t5- or t-70.<br> be advised that the t-5- is a P^S cam,era that takes fd lenses.<br> only fd lensed can be used.<br> I would not suggest spending money to get the ae-1 repaired , simply work around the probles it presents or use a different bodel fd camera<br> vitit the Butkus site tpoo resd abou the limitations of capabilities of various FD mount models.<br> BTW a cameraq with lens sells for about the same price as a camera body.</p>

<p>I had a site that described in detail how to divide this kit.<br> they also had instructions for developing kodachrome as a B&W film.<br> but that hard drive is not working.<br> If anyone knows of it post thje address.</p> <p>Ithe rollei kit seems to be the best.<br> I dread paying high prices to develop c-41</p>

<p>even the Polarois 35mm film- not the film that was repacklaged Agfa,<br> the instant 35mm fil was not peel apart.<br> but was some kind of quick process film.<br> I only recall there was a processing box/..attachment.<br> so the film did not need to eb sent out.<br> it was a long time ago and I do not recall exactly.<br> as I recall it was Just OK and not a wonderful film.</p>

<p>many years ago I used some agfa isopan reckord<br> and noticed it was almost a spring and very curley.<br> SAfr=ter that I used Kodak B&W film exclusily<br> as it would lie flat and never curled.<br> I think the heat is causing it to curl.<br> sometimes I would put on thwo clips and lie the film on a sofe back. it would turn out flat and stright.</p> <p>this was before my older son could climb up and grab it<br> Now he is 54 and has ghray hair!<br> maybe the manufacturing processes have changed.<br> try without heat.<br> swip[e the film betwen two fingers to remove drops of water and just let it hang.</p>

<p>THANKS ALL</p>

<p>a few small comments.<br> the gsp for westerbers is the Garden state parkway.<br> it was intended as an easy way to the nj shore.<br> and turned out to be a heavily congestd ropaqd. mores so than the turnpike. it was cars and light trucks only. and went to the NJ shore.</p> <p>for those who may have vision problems.<br> two tips.<br> 1-- if you are a veteran ask for an ez-see keyboard. black with white letters.<br> ask for a larger monitor.<br> a free one week course in residence if your eyes are really bad.<br> will get you a new computer.</p> <p>now for all of uis.<br> I still use xp as I can see the applications I am used to<br> Notepad is a wonderful application.<br> to make an Icon do the usual and just type NOTEPAD<br> it will find it.<br> then after you have the icon on the screen ( desktop)<br> go to FONT top left and enlarge and choose a darker bold font.<br> this is FIXED and will not go away next time yo open notpad.<br> if you cannot read a posting swipe it with the mouse and hit ctrl-c. minimize your browser and open notepad<br> hit ctrl-v.<br> then you can read it.<br> hope this hels/<br> the great thing is that you can sel;ect a font and size and not have to do it every time.<br> also hit th little box in notepad to go full screen.</p> <p>My eyes are not hopeless.<br> the VA is planning to do cataracts. sometime next year.<br> I must ge a heart-valve replacement ( not at the VAS)<br> st luikes in bethlehem pa will or plans to do it with a catheter.<br> so if you feelk open heart surgery it too great a risk<br> the other method is far less risky.</p> <p> </p>

<p>My regular tanks are FR specials they are small and hold 1617 oz<br> I haVE OLDER TANKS THAT HOLD A QUART.<br> iT IS POSSIBLE THE REELS IN THESE OLDER TANKS MAY ACTUALLY TAKE THE LONGER 220 ROLL.<br> BUT POSSIBLE THE GROOVES IN THE OLDER TANKS ARE FARTHER APART.<br> i WILL SEE..</p>

<p>OK GREAST THE SECOND POST TELLS ME HOW THANK YOU i WILL KEEP THIS IN A SAFE SPOT.<br> THE FIRST POSTER<br> " CAN i ISSUE AN EXACUTIVE ORDER" <br> maybi I can think of somthing while I am playing golf or on vacation<br> OOOPS I don't know how to play golf.<br> and I Im on vacation- I live in the poconos and don';t work.<br> my vacation has lasted many years.<br> I think fondly? abut getting up at 5 am and driving many miles on the GSP.</p>

<p> how do I get to the internal mail?<br> sometimes it says you have new messages and thn I click and it works<br> but how otherwise?</p> <p>because of Poor-well terrible- vision I have not upgraded to windows 7.<br> some of the applications I use do not work past windows xp. so I stay at that level.<br> my system will work with newer OS nut my apps will not.<br> so- I have from time to time have crashes - I keep backups<br> but is there a microsoft XP pro repair cd?</p> <p>I did add the un-official sp4 from softpedia.<br> is there a firly easy way nd u=instructions to slit 1220 to 127 and 16mm ?<br> I cannot afford a slitter.<br> Is the rollei digibase c-41 kit that hard to find.<br> photographers formulary says it cannot<br> buy some of the parts.</p> <p>there was a page ( before my old craSH)<br> OF DIVIDING THIS KIT<br> AND A SYSTEM FOR DEVELOPING KODACHROE AS b&w<br> WDEGROOT@PTD.NET<br> THE INTERNAL MAIL IS sooo CLUNKY<br> NOT THAT i WIL TRY WITH KODACHROME, BUT THAT ID'S THE PAGE.<br> IT WAS IN REVERSE TXT BLACK WITH WHITE LETTERS.</p> <p>i GUESS THAT IS ENOUGH FOR ONE SESSION</p> <p>btw i CANNOT POST IN OFF TOPIC.<br> A FEW YEARS AGO THE WEST COAST ADMINISTRATOR<br> BANNED ME AS HE DID NOT UDERSTAND MY CALIFORNIA RADIO STATION POST<br> ( IT'S A FEDERAL JURISDICTION- NOT THE LA CITY COUNCIL)<br> BUT HE IS HONE FOR TWO YERS NOW.<br> AND THE LADY FROM BOSTON SEEMS TO BE A NO SHOW AS WELL./</p>

<p>I have some 220. my saGULL 203 HAs a wind lever s possibly I can use 220.<br> I just wonder id the film is too long to fit a developing reel.</p>

<p>for the few that care it will mean those 0mm baCKS<br> AND THE HUGE RF LIKE 70MM FRAFIC ( GRFLEX0 cameras can be used.<br> for the rest of us, it means that 116 616 caqmeras cab bre used as well.<br> Yes a film wider than 120 maybe available.<br> I hope whatever is manufactured it will be slow enough for thos millions of 116 camers.<br> somewhere I even have some larger negs - too big for my omega d2</p>

<p>Inotie small bumps on yjhre front of some fd lenses.</p> <p>I was told that this was for a canon brand lens shade.<br> I was frustrated trying to specify such a shade.<br> instead bought threaded shades.<br> ( former owner added a skylight filter so the camera had a shiny reflecting front edge!</p> <p>anyway to search/speify this shade<br> is there any way to mount filters on this type of shade</p>

<p>while we are o the subject-sort of- I was disapointed when the miranda D and DR would not accept any other lnses and still have an auto diaphragm.. thewre was and I have an exacta XM adapter for preset exacta lenses but the axm adapter tht inverts the auto-exacta lens and allows it to be used on any miranda as an auto diaphragm lens is a very Pricet adapter.<br> I wish I could use my Xa adapter a t4 lens with a exacta adapter and be able to use a few more lenses on my ld model d body.<br> despite the age or exactas both the t4/exacta adapters and genuiene auto exacta lened are very expensive as well as rare.<br> Of course that was 55 years ago and I now have many choiced for my newer slr's.<br> but ld thoughts and hops die hard. strange that I want some of the same thing at age 80 that I did ast age 25.<br> The mirandas were good cameras for that time. I bought it based on the removable prism..<br> but that was then not now.</p>

<p>it by noticing the screws holding on the bracket with the small arm<br> a YS mount lens, this is a T mount lens but with an auto diaphragm.<br> It was available from most older lens mounts like m42, exacta, Miranda, . canon FT ( stop down metering) and other cameras of that era. oh yes from Nikon F. the mount was shared with several other companies that made or marketed lenses besides Spiratone. some Good others likely just OK.<br> Since I have miranda senorex cameras I am interested if you have no use for it.<br> these lenses were usually made before plasic became popular in lens construction. the lens is likely heavy.</p>

<p>my browser is having serious problems with that link.<br> rich oleson had]s a " lens mount identification page"<br> Judging ONLY from the arm sticking out of the lens, It MAY be a Miranda sensorex lens,<br> the Mirandas had a shallow 4 prong mount male on the body<br> one "claw" on the back or the lens.<br> if the short arm which would be on the left side of the lens when mounted and a small pin to link with a matching arm on the camera body. that is what it is.,<br> the short arm will move tha aperture settings. max opening would be at the bottom.<br> I have several old miranda senorexes so this is familiar to me.<br> I do not see a noth on that arm, that would mean Nikon.</p> <p>the miranda sensoprex was superceded with the senorex EE and the DX# that did not have the small arm<br> the company went out of business in 1976,<br> later "faux" mirandas were either M42 or pentax K mount.</p>

<p>HENRY POSNER EXPLAINS IT WELL.<br> THE BEAUTY OF AN EOS CAMERA IS AUTOFOCUS AS WELL AS ANTO EXPOSURE<br> WE HAVE SINCE THE 1950'S BECOME DEPENDENT ON AUTO DIAPHRAGM/<br> if you must g for it.<br> I strongly suspect that if you had such an adaprter and used it on either a film or digital body,<br> that the novelty would soon wear off and soon the fd mount lenses would be set aside and real eos lenses would be used.</p> <p>loss of all the automatic features would mak it seem like taking photos 75 years ago.<br> slow and a bit awkward.<br> I realize that a tru eos lens or a third party lens sush as a Sigma is very expensive.<br> and that may be pusing or pulling you towards re using lenses you already have.<br> a better idea would be for a third-party manufacturer to create a digital fd mout body.<br> than you would only need manual focus.</p> <p>a crop-sensor digital body with any old film lens mount would be fairly easy to build and reasonably priced.</p>

<p>we are in two groups. most here are the second part.<br> the first JUST wanted pictured - prints.<br> the second group- most of us- were interested in equipment..<br> and in at least my case tried to work around the limitations inposed on us by old film and camera limitations.<br> as couple of examples, my ultrablitz monojet had weak ni-cad cells, a few years before I could easily buy better ones.<br> recycling was slow and the VIBRATOR, made it slower<br> the flash was weak and asa 10 or even 25 or 32 film limited my options.<br> :later newer flashes used ni-caDS AND i CARRIED A CHARGER AND METER TO TEST CELLS AS <br> reclycling was slow. MY b-i-l has a honneywell with a HV battery favored by wedding photographers. sorry no it ws exp[ensive to replace.<br> nd so i struggled on working harder to make things work.<br> as film got faster and cameras had built-in meters things gradually beceme easier.<br> al or at least some of the "inovations" were an attempt to make things go better..<br> <br />in 2002, I finally was given a canon ae-1 with auto exposure and auto flash.<br> only 20 years after it's introduction!<br> I missed or bypassed many of the weird and wonderful things that others bough and uded or trid to us.<br> I m now, with poor vision and at age 80 able to do things with film cameras I only dreamed about 20-25 years ago.<br> I moved and semi-retired in 1995 and no longe have the old home with a basement darkroom.<br> and It is hard to read thjose little numbers on cameras or a thhermometer.<br> but I have not given up.<br> I have gradually lost onterest in many of the old odd things and narrowed my interests to simpler things.<br> there is great satisfaction in walking around with a simple or less sim,ple camera and looking for things to shoot. and then, at night, developing the film.</p> <p>I love to read these musings about thje ways things were, and never will be again.</p>

<p>Kodachrome0 we keep getting reminders isis missed.<br> althoughh it is sad to newer things cause the discontiuation of older and really loved products.<br> I think there are several reasons why I think we say it s end.<br> Kodak was in serious trouble.<br> Kodachome was based on 1930's technology/ and while it was an outstanding film. it was a very complicated process.<br> similar thinking caus panatomic-x to be ended and only pluis - x to remain.<br> Ektachome had vastly improved and someone saw no real need for another film.<br> ASA 64 was a decent sped, but some simpler cameras with dx autoi settings would not set at 64. iso 100 would have been better.<br> slides were rapidly becoming obsolete.<br> and only color print film was filling market needs.<br> most people wanted a Print, not a slide.<br> new cameras oftn could not cope with the narrow exposure latitude of a slide film.<br> and of course digital was kickinh down the door.<br> sad but thats how things go.<br> I may or not be a Luiddite, but I thill think my 1950 Ford or my 1952 studebaker was a better<br> car than others I have owned.</p>

<p>there are many diferet approacges<br> to camera design. some really not strange<br> the B&H Foton a motorized 35mm<br> rf or the Kodak Motormatic- sort of as<br> Kodak signet with a motor.<br> an excuse excuse to use more film.<br> the Canon Dial really strange., or the<br> yashica samuri, which resembled<br> a movie camera but is a half frame 35<br> gralflex made the grafmatic , looked like a std holder but held 8<br> shots , but works like the ols Shich<br> razor.<br> click click 8 shots.<br> there was a camera-radio so you<br> did not need to lug two Items to<br> the beach. this was a TUBE radio.</p> <p>the prims for the old waist level<br> practicas set on top og the W L finder.</p> <p>My old 6 x 9 folding camera <br> had a poor Viewdinder, but there<br> was a 35mm "kodachrome" kit<br> for the 620 camera.<br> a perfect way to take photos without<br> heads. or at all.<br> many of the semi-wierd cameras<br> were basic box cameras<br> made in bright colors.<br> the Beacon with a built in<br> " heasdlight" style flash<br> and no features.<br> Kodak and others had oddly styled<br> cameras. Market research may have<br> reported these cameras would sell.</p> <p>were we ( the usa )_ so kind to<br> Nazi Germany that we made<br> Leica clones but they did not<br> have a 39mm lens mount.<br> is that weird or just stupid?<br> The japanese made 35mm cameras<br> with a 24 x 32 frame. meaning How<br> do you mound a Kodachrome slide?<br> Kodachome asa 10 was the leading<br> 35mm film at that time.<br> it is more short-sighted than<br> weird.</p> <p>sometimes different is not weird.<br> the argus c-3 was different but<br> practical and very usable.<br> an off-ball film loader that clipped<br> on a film real ( I have the 127<br> version somewhere)<br> you clipped the spookl on the</p> <p>device yanked on the paper and supposedly the film slid easily on the reel.<br> actually it was easier to hand load<br> the film.<br> I have a lens hood with two<br> overlapping doors so you can take<br> photos of your friend as twins. <br> some things never change. I still use<br> the same film tan as in 1948 or so<br> the FR special. even two rolls of<br> ektachome at once and then two<br> more.. i really edited this </p>

<p> AN ALYERNTIVE IS A USB TO CARD READER<br> selling for 5 cents to 99 cents.<br> the one I like best is a Pod 1 1/2 x 3 12 with a detacable cable ( none usb to standard usb)<br> the mini end works on many cameras.<br> If you are like me you can hold the pod end up and easily insert the card<br> Price is about $3.00- buy 2</p>

<p>I have bought three boxes with a usb plug /cable<br> and slots for several different cARDS IN THE FRONT.<br> THEY WERE DESIGNED TO REPLACE A FDLOPPY DISK DRIVE OR FIT IN A SECOND FLOPPY DISK HOLE.<br> nEITHER WORKE IT IS TRICKY IF THE DRIVE HAS A SEPARATED HEADER CONNECTOR<br> TO REPLACED THE 10 PIN CONNECTOR ON THE MB.<br> THERE ARE OTHERS THAT WILL PLUG DIRECTLY IN A REAR OR FRONT USB SLOT SANF SIMPLY BLUG IN ANY USB PORT.<br> DSPITE THE LOW COST EBAY / FROM CHINA<br> i HAVE HAD BAD LUCK GETTING ANY TO WORK.<br> BE PREPARED TO GET A DUD.</p>

<p>I have bought three boxes with a usb plug /cable<br> and slots for several different cARDS IN THE FRONT.<br> THEY WERE DESIGNED TO REPLACE A FDLOPPY DISK DRIVE OR FIT IN A SECOND FLOPPY DISK HOLE.<br> nEITHER WORKE IT IS TRICKY IF THE DRIVE HAS A SEPARATED HEADER CONNECTOR<br> TO REPLACED THE 10 PIN CONNECTOR ON THE MB.<br> THERE ARE OTHERS THAT WILL PLUG DIRECTLY IN A REAR OR FRONT USB SLOT SANF SIMPLY BLUG IN ANY USB PORT.<br> DSPITE THE LOW COST EBAY / FROM CHINA<br> i HAVE HAD BAD LUCK GETTING ANY TO WORK.<br> BE PREPARED TO GET A DUD.</p>