walter_degroot

<p>several comments.<br> 620 was a scasm by kodak to use kodak film n=t a competing brand.<br> despite this many 620 cameras will at least take a 120 spool in the supply sdide.<br> my late wife's 1960-s brownie hawkeye will easily accept a new roll of 120.<br> but instructions say disassemble and bend two bumps in the metal sides. ( disassemble<br> SO IG YTHAT MODEL WILL ACCEPT A 120 spool do that.<br> THERE IS A WAY TO ADD A SMALL PICE OF METAL SO THE WINDING GET WILL GRAB THE 120 SPOOL IN THE TAKE-UP SIDE ( IF the `120 spool FITS.<br> film in those days were very slow. B&W film is available as iso 100.<br> This film can either be overexposed or developes as iso 50.<br> using the massive development chart.<br> this applies to B&W. 100 speed color film may work but will be exposed 1-2 stops overexposed.<br> if you respool yourseld is is rarely mentioned<br> that 120/620 is tapes at only the leading edge.<br> when you respool, you must untape and retape the number 1 exposure end in the dark.<br> this is known, but some less experienced folks<br> may not be aware of this.<br> B&H is a good source of roll film.<br> but Freesty;le sames and photo warehouse also stock roll film.<br> try the simplest method first-- see if a 120 spool fits on the supply side.<br> do not truse a photo procssor to return the spools<br> 620 or 127 spools are rare and should be guarded.</p> <p>I have a few 120 and 620 cameras. <br> the brownie page tells how to modify a camera to use electronic flash as bulbs are prisey.</p> <p>as not doing so will crack the plaSTIC.</p>

<p>ASK SOMEONE about the kodachrome process.<br> it is quite different than all the other procsses.<br> ektachrome, agfachrome, anscochrome, fujichrome, kand all the otherts shjare a common heritage.<br> Kodachrome and dynachoe are dfferent.<br> Yu m,ay have sucess reversing a B&W film.<br> But the whjat?<br> you can only project a slide.<br> there is NO reversal paper.<br> you can scn and print.<br> there are enlargers that connect to a copmputert.<br> but tjey are expensiv.<br> Possibly you have a goal n mind. But we do not know whay it is.<br> Just to say " I did it" may be your goal.<br> but what then?</p>

<p>I used the kodak "direct positive developing key"<br> to prosess panatomic x as a reversal film.<br> I tries with plus x and the results were so so.<br> Panatomic x was suggested by kodak as working well with this kit.<br> I think the B&W emulsin on a roll of Kodachrome may or may not lend itself to reversam processing.<br> the original B&W emulsion was not present in the final color slide.<br> and I do not know the exent to which the orginal emulsion afected the final image.<br> Most other films have some toplerances.<br> I think Kodachome was much less tolerant of variations.</p> <p>the other fact is that the supply of Kodachrome is limited. Many rolls are sold at a premiu to folks who are collectors or those who have no idea processing has been un avaalable for several years.<br> it may be a short-livbed plan.<br> I don't think we will ever see such a film again nor any e-6 kodak film.<br> It is interesting that dynachrome was able to clone kodachrome<br> and likely procss it and Kodachrome.<br> mayve with the secret halp of Kodak techs.</p>

<p>my situation is similaR.<br> bUt with miranda klenses.<br> it is expensive to clean / restore a lens and this means unless the seller is willing to reduce the price to $100.00 I woud return it.<br> In my case any miranda 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.9 lens is simple just unscrew the front and rear groups ands carfully clean what remeins.<br> any w.a. lens will be more complex and harder to clean.<br> I was discouraged by the quoted prices.<br> I se it aS A 1 HOUR JOB.<br> THE SELLER, UNLESS THATE ARE DUMB MUST KNOW THERE WAS A PROBLEM.</p>

<p>sometime, a few years before film scanners were really wanted and needed by film shooters,<br> Minolta sold out to sony, ending support for moderately priced scanners.<br> Nikon - it is a mystery- likely ended the manufacturing of their scanners but some support and repair may still exist.<br> this is at a time when photograpthers began to convert film inmages to digital inages.</p> <p>cnon did produce flatbed scanners tht will scasn film.<br> epson seems to remain the last one on the game.<br> there are other "svanners" but little has bneen said about them hers. they may be ok or they may be poor converters of film to digital Images. It may take spending several hundred dollars to find out..<br> It is a sad situaion.<br> Go to the epson online store not staples or office depot or ebay.<br> save some real money.<br> epson will talk to you and let you know the real facts.</p>

<p>off topic but still Sigma<br> I asked sigma if they made the spirtone YS lenses<br> the answer was NO they even checked with JKapan.<br> later I found a YS / sigma 135mm f.2.8 lens in a box.<br> strange folks.</p>

<p>there are instructions for developing k-14 as B&W.<br> I am sure the same info wouild be similar or<br> be valid for older Kodachrome.<br> two things come to mid.<br> the film is likely stuck to the backing paper.<br> I would nvertigate if a collextor would buy the film if it is physicall in nice condition.<br> using an 828 camera is another problem. sute the backing paper and spools are useful.<br> but most decent 828 cameras have a single hole per frame.<br> Ido not own an 828 camera but I think this is necessary to cock the shutter.<br> ( like 126) the film stock is 35mm wide but the <br />'"perfs"<br> are in part of the frame.<br> More power to you to use a 828 camera.</p>

<p>pme pf tje few things that intewrst me<br> and my old eyes cannot see to read it</p>

<p>i tries it seems to be in english</p>

<p>YOU MENTION SOM PRICEY CAMERAS.<br> decent even excellent results from many lower prices and easy to use cameras should satify you.<br> a few- the Konica c35 ( rf model - not AF or built-in flash)<br> the canonet 28. minolta Hi-matic.<br> a camera with a well-made 4 element "tessar type" f/2.8 lens will work just fine.<br> your aim is high. but you will not require 11 x 14 or 20 x 24 enlargements from each frame./<br> one of the cameras I mentioned and several others will produce a 4 x 6 or larger photo that equals a photo taken with a film slr.<br> It will not be a comvenbient or flexible,. But it is something you can slip in a pocket and have with you.<br> I hasve an olympus infinity. all plascit with a clamshell design tapered so I can keep it with me.<br> the most accessories you will need is a pair of spare batteries and a an extra roll of film.</p> <p>anything using film todl is a problem. there are few places that work at a moderate price and some do not evebn return negatives.<br> I think the entire point of film is having the negatives.<br> You can save whayever the digicam sees why not the same for film?</p> <p>If you choose to use B&W do not send it out.<br> learn to do it at home.</p>

<p>if you are going to limit yourself to 35mm and 120 ( 6 x 9)<br> the beseler 23c is your choice.<br> not only are there millions ( thousands) out there but the color head i<br> uses non fading filters.<br> freestyle sales has an upgrade kit.<br> I do not know what it has[likely wear items.<br> I own an omega d2v 4 x 5 and there is a color head at an enormous price.<br> but early col;or heads were subject to fading.<br> so you must be cautious when purchasing one.<br> remeber there is no reversal paper.<br> so forget about printing slides.<br> be sure that the enlarger you choose is still manufactured and/or supported.</p>

<p>THIS IS A CANON 7 OFFERED FOR SALE<br> BY CANON USA<br> it has to be the real thing<br> i can only afford things that cost less than $10.<br> i am sorry i did not make that clear.<br> my interest on the canon store or refurb site<br> was to see which canon sx ??? is<br> camera with a viewfinder was now being sold.<br> i still use th olympus xz-1 someone here sent me as a gift.<br> btw olympus sent me a manual.<br> nice folks.</p> <p>from my other recent post.<br> I still like film and hope to do more.</p>

<p>peacefully searching for a P&S<br> http://www.samys.com/brand/Canon/801.html<br> all I wanted was too look up low prices canon P&S digitals with a viewfinder<br> likely the sx series<br> but in the middle of the page when I typed "canon store"<br> was a canon 7 csamera<br> I clicked - who would not<br> and they were selling one but for a thousand dallers.<br> soeone may have been looking fr one<br> after 40+ years thay still have one<br> I think this is the best m39 camera ever made.</p>

<p>I live in pensylvania<br> 100 + from ny and philadelphia.<br> I was gifted with film and too many cameras.<br> my eyesight is poor and the last time I shiot film I used P&S camerasd<br> but I can see well enough to frame and by a process of choosing the best I can focus.<br> supposedly the VA will do cataracts soon.<br> and this will sharpen my vision.</p> <p>now I have three places that seem ok.<br> I did not know Dwayes destroyed negatives.<br> with decent lenses, I cannot avccvept they a scan is good enough.<br> I have a moderater quality 35mm flastbed with a scanner slot.<br> and I never intend to use an inkjet to print.<br> a thumb drive of cd and a trip to walmart. seems wiser.</p> <p>I was also gifted several 1200 dpi laserjets to print B&W.<br> I need pointers on how to remove the graininess.<br> I do have problems reading a thermometer.<br> but I have a large Kodak dial thermometer I can read.<br> I made a 100 degree 1 gallon temp bath when I was doing color 30 35 years ago.<br> I found that the beselker 2 solution and my 2 z drum - with 3-4 oz -- worked well.<br> My 3 x 3 filters and the durst m300 enlarger seemed to work well.<br> So even with my physical limitations I could still do it.<br> I have a windowless bathroom/</p> <p>ost? how much will I be willing to pay?<br> not much. I am on ss retirement<br> my son had a stroke and is on disability.<br> we take advantage of any bebefits available.<br> we heat with coal ( less expensive)<br> and ecanonomize.<br> we jusat manage. so a high[priced labe is for rich folks only.</p> <p>I am willing to accpt that a low cost lab might run a c-41 line when they have enough film to justify it.<br> that maked good sense.<br> I will post the "poorman;s" workbook telling hw to do things on a shoestring.<br> BTW the VA gives me shoes with Velcro -no shoestrings.<br> withour saying so, others send me things like rick oleson who sent me a 120 camera.</p>

<p>first some comments, then a question.<br> ABC photo, located in Mystic ct is the sucessor to mystic photo.<br> the old company was purchased by YORK / District photo.<br> the employees of the old company formed a new co[any<br> they provide lower cost processing with a downloadable maler anvelope postage free.</p> <p>I even at the age when I can barely see-- considered processing c-41 myself.<br> a telephone call to photographer s formulary<br> that lasted a while. let me find out they were having problems purchasing the rollei digibase componets.<br> BTW I also lost track of a site that deals with this process and dividing the solutions.<br> I also located a company called OLD FASHIONED either lab pr photo.<br> My list of url s is on a dead drive.<br> this old fashioned lab located either in VT or NH seems reasonable.<br> Befor some say " if you want good results try this lab"</p> <p>sure fine those of us in ss retirement are staggerd by this prices they charge. no way.<br> I realize dwayes isw among the best but the shipping costs kill the advantages. I don';t shoot several rolls<br> so I cannot save that way.<br> walmart used to be good-either local ir send out.<br> but not returning negatives is a big mistake.<br> Maybe for a 5$ p&s camera but not for a real camera.</p> <p>I realize digital is now the thing.<br> but still we can use and enjoy film and out real cameras for a while.<br> Suppose you purchase a roll of Kodak high quality "ektar" film ND EXPOSE IT IN A %<br> $500.00 CAMERA AND ALL YOU GET IS SOME CHEAP SCANS?</p> <p>basically post the address of old fashioned lab<br> or other reasonable priced labs in the usa.</p>

<p>in history- developer was mized in a big tank and seemed to last for months.<br> later mq0developer was sold for single roll use<br> and developers like d-76 we mixed as a sock solution and replentiched as used.<br> this caused confusion. at least I thought so.<br> later it was precticl to mix developers such as d-76 1:1 or other dilutyions and use them as a one-shotoyjhetr developers such as rodinal were use very diluted 1"25 to 1"100.</p> <p>The most universal developer kodak hc-110<br> is usually used as a one shot. a small amout of syrup is mixed with a large quantity of water and used one and then dicarder. If you follow the kodak data sheet you will be told to mix a stock solution -- which may go mad before entirely used and also creat vaRIANTIONS IN RESULTS.<br> A BETTER WAY IS TO FOLLOW INFO IN THIS PAGE<br> http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</p> <p>THE BASISIS FOR THE AMOUT OF DEVELOPER TO USE IS ONE 8 X 10 SHEET OR A 36 EXPOSURE ROLL OR 35MM<br> ( IS IT ALSO TWO ROLLS OR 120??)</p> <p>the major problam is not using evough of the actual developer.<br> something like rodinal or hc 110 is inexpensive enough so you cam mox enough to fill the tank 8 ox -small single 35mm ot 16 oz two rolls of 35mm .<br> voiding extrme dilutions as the developing agent can be used up.<br> do not fear mixing 16 oz at the specified dilution if you are developing just one 12 exp or 24 exposure roll<br> no degradation will result.</p> <p>in the case of some developers like acufine whic contains a fairly sm,all amouty of powder must be mixed to make a quart or gallon and then diluted for use as a one shot developer.<br> the instructions or data sheet will not misinform you.<br> cncentrted liquid dvelopers are generally easier to use.</p> <p>but whatever you do follow the covington directions for hc-110.<br> the syrup lasta a long long time and the overall cost is very low.<br> despite the higher cost of a bottle.<br> Kodk hjas recently invceresed the minimum size of a bottle of hc-110. never fear the syrup will last and the developer is almost universal.</p> <p> </p>

<p>use the best-in your opinion- not damaging method or photographing this family portait.<br> it may create a less than perfect copy of the portrait.<br> but you will have a copy.<br> I am guessing that you do not have a lot or any photo equipment/</p> <p>SOME KIND OR STAND like an enlarger with out the head where you cam mount your digitl or film camerawould work<br> or a table and something to hold th camer over the portrit.<br> Biyt things to look for Glare and being square to the<br> photo. You could also look for profssional with a studio and a lab.<br> and older persom might be better/<br> avois slick modern places that only kow the basics and cannot or will not help you/<br> if they ask tell them some in the family will killed in the war LIE.<br> or they may suggest you all gather again for a new portait</p>

<p>FIRST EXCUSE THE FACT i DID NOT OR COULD NOT READ ALL THE POSTS.<br> as far as a basic photo course is concerned. let me make a few assumptions.<br> requiremets will likely be" manual camera meaning you set the exposure and it not set utomaticlly.<br> It is very stupis on the instructor's part to<br> require the camera nbe meterless.<br> such camera would be very old and likely require a cla ( cleaningh lube adjustm,ent_<br> at a cost of at least $50.00.<br />a working camera from the 70-'s or 80's shouldcost about $23.00.</p> <p>the pentax K100 was the camera of choice in the past.<br> it is a pentax K (lens) mout camera.<br> with a match-pinter in the viewfinder.<br> it is pretty basic and well regarder.<br> close models are the ricoh kr5.<br> which haS THE SAME LENS MOUNT BUT A METAL SHUTTER AND COLORED LED'S IN THE VIEWFINDER.<br> OR SOME MODELS OF COSINA AND CHIUNON CAMERAS.<br> the last two may not be as good quality.</p> <p>If you need to find out how they work read the menuals at butkus s website.</p> <p>These models all use the same K mount lenses.</p> <p>there is nothinhg wrong with Minolta models but some are fullyauto.<br> lenses seem to be plentiful.</p> <p>the Konica s a good camera BUT<br> it is less common.<br> the olympus OM series is outstanding a gem but again fewer lenses are available.</p> <p>you wil;l if you intend to takle more photos,<br> need at least a wide angle lens.<br> eraly cANBON CAMERAS THJE FT AND SIMILAR HAVE STOP DOWN METERING.<br> AND TAKE FT LENSES<br> LATER cANON MODELS THE a SERIES AND T SETIES ARE AUTOMATIC AND MAY NOT BE ACCEPTABLE FOR YOUR CLASS.<br> there is one A series that is not automatic. it takes the same lenses as the rest of the a and t seris/</p> <p>film- will you develkop your own or send it out?<br> true B&W film is likely.<br> it cannot be developed at most send-out locations as you wil be warned.<br> it is easy to develop.<br> color negativ film eith BW or full color is likely beyond a basic photo course.<br> some do develop it at home. but then you need to print it.<br> walmart is the lase eay-to- use place.<br> for color print film but I hear they do not return negatives.<br> some drugstore will develop print and also scan your negatives.<br> If you find a good place tell us or tell me.</p>

<p>I know tht my epson scanner is nothe same (or as good as) a nikon coolscan.<br> it s 35mm only. I am considering how I could scan a 120 6 x 6 color negative.<br> I guess photographing a print would be the easiest.<br> I know that is not the question.<br> I have 50mm macro lenses and zoom shide duplicator for 35mm.<br> I have no simple way to directly make a positive scn of a 6 x 6 negastive.<br> and suggestions besides buying a new flatbed scanner?</p>

<p>oh yes you may get a deal on a drive from an offce store.<br> thye best prices are from NEW EGG.<br> get on their list for the weekly specials.</p> <p>Although an external drive is handy to store photos abd data, avcaios buying by drive brand name.<br> wester digital seems to be the best close second is seagate.<br> wd makes drive in varioud quality levels.<br> some are warranteed for 5 years.<br> the wd black.<br> again if your system has an ide drive under or at 120g-- it may not accept larger drives.<br> we had a beautiful gateway that we gave away with a new 120gb drive<br> th larger drive we used in a newer pc.</p> <p>You should NOT need the cd key to activbate the operating systm.<br> but just in case be sure to have it written down somewhere.</p>

<p>may I suggest a cloning / image program called CLONEZILLA<br> it is free to get and to use.<br> it is available in 32 and 64 bit versions.</p> <p>be sure your system will handle a driv of the size you purchase.<br> there are bios related size limits on IDE Eide<br> also referred to as PATA drives.<br> these drive also are going up in prce.</p> <p>If your system uses a SATA drive these should be no problem.</p> <p>the clonezilla program runs abd boots from a cd.<br> so you may need to reconfigure a drive to be slave rather than master.</p> <p>you mayalso try or use a copy of HIREN s boot cd that contains sme cloning / drive copying programs.<br> also free and downloadable.<br> I have used Norton s ghost. and still use it on smaller drives.<br> but I am not entirely satisfied with it.<br> I had some norton GHO image files I made with version 5.0 that becabe corrupted and would not restore..<br> there are later versions on some releases of the HIREN s boot cd.</p>

<p>when I contacted him several years ago he reponded right away.<br> I only knew him as an expert on b&w developers.</p> <p>recently pssibly several months ago, I emailed him.<br> one of his dughters responded instead. sayin he was visiting family.</p> <p>I am aware that many other long time m,ebers and resident experts are no longer with us.<br> I am 80 and many friends and classmates are now gone.<br> I am going in to have a heard valve and a sting added to my heard.<br> pssibly the rish is small, but who knows.</p> <p> </p>

<p>i HAD EMAILED PATRIC gAINER SEVERAL MONTHS AGO.<br> a family member sent me this message.<br> Mr Gainer was well known for B&W developer formulas.<br> --------------------------------------------------<br> At 12:19 PM 11/30/2015 -0500, you wrote:<br />I regret to inform you that our father, Patrick Gainer, passed away on Saturday. If you are still involved in APUG, can you let them know? Thanks. Here is the obituary we intend to publish:<br /><br /><br />Patrick Anthony Gainer, beloved husband and father, passed away at St. Agnes Hospital in Baltimore, Maryland on November 28, 2015 at the age of 88. Loving, pious, generous to a fault, humorous, brilliant and talented, Patrick was a retired NASA engineer who loved to recall his work in designing star charts for and with the Mercury astronauts. In addition to his work at NASA, he was oboist for the Peninsula Symphony, Norfolk Symphony, Virginia Symphony and Governor's Palace Orchestra of Colonial Williamsburg. He was an accomplished photographer and photographic researcher. He published an article about “home-brewed� developers for black and white film in Petersen's Guide to Creative Darkroom Techniques. Another of his major articles was for the magazine "Darkroom and Creative Camera Techniques" (November / December 1994 issue) entitled "Non Chromogenic Antiscorbutic Developers for Black and White", which was his humorous way of saying, "I have concocted some developers for black-and-white film that contain ascorbic acid." Note that ascorbic acid is commonly known as "Vitamin C". His new formula for developer involving common "Vitamin C" could be procured at any health food store for significantly less money than traditional developing agents and became popular with the “analog� photographic community as well as some university art programs which greatly appreciated the cost savings. He was also a contributing editor for Photo Techniques magazine. <br />He was born in Morgantown, West Virginia, on July 14, 1927, the son of Patrick Ward Gainer, renowned folklorist and West Virginia University English professor, and Antionette Kizinski. He served in the US Army from 1945 to 1947, was a graduate of West Virginia University, and worked for NASA Langley in Hampton, Virginia from 1952 until his retirement in 1982. He is survived by five of his six children, 10 grandchildren and 6 great-grandchildren, including son Patrick Lloyd Gainer and his daughter Erin Gainer; daughter Mary Theresa Gainer Calame and her children Ann Hancock, Joni Robbins, Daniel Moseley, and Mary Riggs; grandson Ian Gainer, son of his late son Robert Michael Gainer; daughter Alice Louise Gainer Standin and her husband William Gary Standin; daughter Frances Ellen Gainer Davey, her husband Robert Davey and their children John and Patrick Davey; and Christine Marie Gainer Barton, her husband Michael Barton and their children Rosemary and Anthony Barton. He is also survived by his brothers Michael and Thomas Gainer, and sister Miriam Goder. Preceding him in death was his beloved wife Rosemary Layman Gainer, with whom he long wished to be reunited. God willing, it is so. <br /><br />A memorial in his honor will be held by family members in the Spring. At that time, his ashes will be interred in Good Shepherd Cemetery, in Tanner, West Virginia.<br /><br /><br />Sincerely,<br />Christine Barton<br /></p>

<p>I APPRECIATE ALL THE RESPONSES.<br> I am ac tive here and try on an apparently almost dead old computer forum.<br> My activities are somewhat limeted- no volleyball-- by a weak heart.<br> even after two 5x bypasses.<br> I spent to much time listening to books downlaoaded from the BARD site as my vision is somehat limitede.<br> hopefully It will sharpen when the VA gets around to <br> to TWO cateract operations.<br> that will make it better but not perdfect.<br> My giant Kodak dial thermom,eter possibly will make it possible to set temperatures.<br> I read that setting 68 or 75 is easier now that we have microwave ovens.<br> but graduates are still hard to read when mizing.<br> I can sort of see to frame<br> but the darn dials and knobs still have small numbers.<br> my fingers despite somewhat knumb fingers still work well enough to load film in cameras and on reels.<br> 35mm is a LOT eassier then 127..<br> No I do not miss my baby brownie special.<br> old times, some of them I can forget.others I still treasure.</p>

<p>practically everyone seems to think I am really out of whack./<br> pointing out perhasps sucessfully, that digital is easier and undoubtly better than real film photography.<br> I hate the word analog.<br> what is so analog about non-digital photography/</p> <p>I am willing to admit that myu free ( donated by a gentleman_<br> olympus xz-1 10mp. not can take many photos.<br> I replaced the card with a 32gb ( my son purchased one for the trail cam)<br> and putting on a cd and printing at walmart.<br> it works well.<br> Phil in wi. sent me some 120 film and I am weager to try thye seagull 203.<br> Does som,eone have a cutter to malke some 16mm unperf stock.<br> I have a reel. and 3 sub min cameras.</p> <p>old time ( forgive the old..) is a lot more interesting than doing digital.<br> it is possible I may never drag out my 4 x 5 speed grapgic<br> my omega d2, and multi film holders.<br> Sorry I forgot the proper name./</p>