walter_degroot

<p>I would tend to ue the real fujifilm.<br> I READ-POSSIBLY HERE-<br> THAT SOME THIRD PARTY FILM MIGHT BE REALLY kODAK OR fUJI.<br> i HEARD THAT SOME THIRD PARTY FILMS WERE AN OLDER VERSION STILL MADE BY FUJI.<br> POSSIBLY STORED BY FUJI ONDER OPTIMASL CONDITIONS<br> SO IT MAY BE PERFECTLY FINE FILM.</p> <p>i KNOW THAT PHOTOWAREHOUSE ( UNTRAFINEONLINE)<br> STILL HAD SOME kONICA AND AGFA COLOR FILM.'<br> iSERIOUSLY DOUBT THAT SUCH FILM IS OUT OF DATE'POSSIBLY COLD STORED IN BULK.</p> <p>uNLESS FILM HAS BEEN ABUSED <br> IT SHOULD ME OK.<br> i HAD A 22 YEAR OLD ROLL OF KODACOLOR 400. NEVER CAREFULLY STORED AND IT WAS FINE.<br> i WOULD WORRY MORE ABOUT THE QUALITY OF THE PROCESING</p>

<p>there were many more types of film available<br> whjan I started out.<br> mstly B & w mut many manufacturers as well.<br> I remeber anso that was often put down.<br> I purchased a 36 exp roll of ansco 32 and sent it to binghampton for processing.<br> the resulkts were excellent.<br> I liked to old kodachrome 10 - not natural but very nice.<br> there were others such as perutz and possibly others I never trid.<br> I used more B&W than color film as kodak did not make color print film in 35mm when I was most active.<br> todayit seems to be all color print film ( if you are still using film)<br> and I still see a nead or is it a wish to have kodak mak more than tri-x.<br> unfortunately kodak has fallen on hart times<br> and I do not know if there will be kodak film in 5 or ten years.<br> I this the fault of govenment policies? failing to protct american companies.</p> <p>I know there is always ilford and possibly the hard-to-find european films.</p> <p>After wwII many tried.<br> Our local company Anken tried buty appartently their 120 and 127 films went bad in a few months.</p> <p>dynachome made a valient effort<br> but I was looking the other way when they made "kodak compatibvle" color prit film.<br> of was it ansco that tried that, I missed most of that era.</p>

<p>there are pros and cons using classic 35mm cameras or othjer film cameras.</p> <p>i really miss the 1 hour c-41 ( color neg + prints) processing at walmart.<br> apparently they send it out but do not return negatives.<br> this is stupif if you have a decent camera wit a decent lens<br> and must depend on a scan of questionable quality.<br> maybe a sort of blessing for those who use cheap cameras with plastic lenses.</p> <p>I still do B&W but way back then was warned that there were serious<br> problems with the old c-22 color neg<br> \which does not seem to be a problem with newer c-41 films<br> and the avcaiable kits.<br> so I may actuaslly try to process my own c-41 film.<br> the high prices charged by many labs puts me off.<br> many do not even mention " just film processing"<br> for 2-3 dallars.<br> and any drugstore processing is not <br> near me.</p> <p>I am happiest with match-poiter 35mm cameras.<br> my canon cameras are mostly non-dx coded so that is a plus especially loading bulk B&W film.</p>

<p>it would be one thing if you ntended to use the equipment.<br> but I see no indication of that.<br> film photography is still do-able. slides and printing slides * i loved them) is really gone.<br> but color negative ( c-41) and printing negatives is still something many still do.<br> it is difficult as it seems. a lot slower than digicam to prints.<br> which must or often are done commercially.<br> Ink jet printers are usually designed to sell expensive ink and frustrate users.</p> <p>sadly a fine enlarger has a low resale value;<br> If your dad was still here he would enjoy real photography. I am 80 and hang on to my old not as good equipment., eventually my son will donate it to a museum.</p>

<p>I ALSO HAVE A CANON T 50<br> I reaklize it s limits<br> only canon of fully compatible lkenss can be used.<br> but the link above is confusing,</p> <p>is it real?<br> I also use butkus<br> and photography in milasia<br> ( mir)<br> hope this helps</p>

<p>th watson loader that uses a movable light baffle is supposed to be the best.<br> I use LLOYS bulk loaders that use a felt lighh trap. I was warned abou scratches on the film. I keep the loares on a zip-loxk bag. never a problem.<br> there are other more serious considerations.<br> today s cartriges are hard staked and cannot be taken abart.<br> ( except by force)<br> many cameras require a DX coded cartrige.<br> I think ultrafileonline photo wrehouse has iso 100 and 400 reloadable cartriges.<br> Porter s camera store ( out of busiess?) had stick on dx code labels.</p> <p>Many labe will no develop mystery film/. If you have a walk-in lab<br> and can show the film can that possibly will develop your film.</p> <p>Some of the euro plastic cartriges, will take a toung of film in a slot on the spool<br> no tape needed/</p>

<p>with older cameras with a rewind know , yuan watch and see if it rotates.<br> many newer cameras do no have such a knob.<br> are the madufacturer s edge markings visible?<br> that means the film was not exposed but deloped.<br> if it is all clear, then it is a development problem.<br> try a est roll to see if the film is properly advanced.<br> soe of the auto-laad fetrures could fail.<br> the advice given above will guide you to the proper cause.</p>

<p>I started a dialogh with a man in the UK anout this lens. I was the first to ID the photo. I asked about shipping and said I would paypal that amout to him.<br> several things came in the way.<br> I may have missed or deleted his paypay invoice.<br> and I spent a few -well 10 days in two hospitals.<br> eventually they will get it all sorted out and replace a leaking heart valve.<br> they already cleared 4 out ioof 5 12 year old cardiac bypasses.<br> no I will not be 18 again. but beter.<br> so between thatand my eyesight- hopelfully soon to be improved.<br> I am operating as if I can t see ( true)</p>

<p>someone here pointed me at FASTONE<br> as with all sharewwaRE<br> BE AWARE OF PIGGYBACKED ADDITIONAL APPS.<br> SO READ EACH SCREEN BEFORE CLICKING<br> iN MY PARTICULAR CASE<br> oLYMPUS S XZ-1 DOES NOT CALL THE RAW MODE BY IT S RIGHT NAME.</p>

<p>there are- if the camera uses a threaded cable release<br> that have a set screw on the pluger end to lock it.<br> BTW considering the museum may be dim<br> wil you provide proper positioning and some hind of hood to maskjk the ground glass?<br> I rcall the dim vie of my 4 x 5 speed graphic and it had a fesnel lens to assist.<br> a vintage camera ould not have that feature.<br> a cloth would help<br> but you do not want doxens of hundreds of folks placing a cloth over their heads.</p>

<p>sometimes a negative looks terrible. but will print or scan with suprising result.</p> <p>most beginners have a lot of problems loading film on a reel/<br> I was s[pared that when I began as fimlm was then orho and I used a red bulb.<br> also with 120/127 we used a see-saw in a tray.<br> there was one way to mix it. and I did no even have a thermometer.<br> later on things were dome diffrently.<br> a reel is required as the film is too long for the old see-saw procedure.</p> <p>are you sure you did not skimp on the amout of deleoper<br> Not l;es tan the tank holds but too little developer stock/</p> <p>another little TRICK is to bang the tank on a table to remove bubbles-- called airbells<br> another is to avoid kinking the undeveloped film as it causes half-moon black marks.<br> we all learn these things as we proceed</p>

<p>http://www.biofos.com/cornucop/ftl.html</p> <p> </p>

<p>I am sorry I phrased it icorrectly.<br> My neihbors has waist level m42 cameras with no provision for a eye level prism. and a preset lens.<br> a HS classmate had a pentacon/ hexicon.<br> the originaL PLATE HAD BEEN GROUND OFF AND ANOTHER NAE GLUED ON<br> BIOTAR, PRESET LENS.<br> NICE LOOKING CAMERA.<br> i THINK MOST KLNOW OF THE OLYMPUS om SERIES.<br> BUT FEW HAVE HEARD THAT THEY BEGAN WITH A M42 CAMERA.<br> i WOULD ASSUME IT WAS A AUTO-DIAPGHAM CAMERA.<br> I had read about it but could not find any reference to it lately.<br> well I am old, my eyes are not as sharp and searching the www is sometimes tesious.</p> <p>I know several japanese companies went thru various lens mount designs.<br> the worst was Mamiya. and the m42 camewras seem to be [ricey despite not being a reallylong lasting camera.<br> the petri, I hear, was decent when the early models were produced<br> but later on quality was way down.<br> Fuji played around with vriations on the m42 with lenses that were auto exposure only on some models<br> I recall the erly pentax with a lever requirig the lens to be reset or re-opened before the next exposure.</p> <p>MODERN referred to an auto mirnda / m42 adapter<br> and Miranda Collectors on yahoo referred to a home brew adapter that allowed M42 lenses to be used with auto-stop-down om miranda Bayoned /m44 bodies. <br> I do notice when I browse for less common cameras or models there is a large family of collectors that are willing to pay big bucks for them.</p> <p>I used to buy sensorex es ( not ee) at rasonable prices but tht price had gone high as well<br> yet a pentax me super or canon a and t series are selling at low prices.</p> <p>I hasve adapters to use m42 lenses but I suspect thty price ifd climing as well.</p>

<p>Was it olympus konica or someone else that introduced it s irst 35mm slr<br> with a m42 ( screw mout)<br> I know later the same company made bayonet mount cameras<br> but the first one was m42.<br> I searched but could not find it.</p>

<p>I recently talked with a retired man who is back in MF protography.<br> He has access to a nikon dslr but seldome uses it.<br> His wife is an artist and possibly that has pulled him in the direction of seeing a scene.<br> or images.<br> He is fortunate in that he has a local lab that will make wet real enlargements.</p> <p>Even though I have three digicams,. I have more film cameras and attachments and lenses.<br> Digital is much easier, but you must accept whetever the camera decides i right and proper.<br> I miss the old Kodacxhrome, especially the asa 10 and other films that are no longer made.<br> the final charateristics of a photogrph depens on so many things like the choice of film and developer and exposure.<br> I was ususually able to get decent if not outstanding results when I did it all on my own.</p> <p>I oncentrted on color print film for many yers, it was more forgiving and the ability to print slides was ghradually going away and is now gone.<br> it must now pass thru a computer,. which is the same or similar to owning and using a digicam.<br> just adding the wet development step.<br> if film is still made -- i hope-- we can still enjoy it.<br> Procssing is becoming expensive - very pricey.<br> and some do no =t return negatives.<br> If you have a good camera with a decent lens you should get negatives back.<br> not so much for the ten dollar cmera with a plastic lens.<br> why should serious photogrpphers be so penalized.</p> <p>enjoy your film and film cameras.<br> I see yesterdaywal0-mart only has disposable cameras.</p>

<p>I have been here for several years<br> But recently, I need to log off and then when I reply Log on or I cannot<br> reply.<br> why is this?<br> I check the box " remeber me"<br> any thoughts.</p> <p>question 2<br> the personal mail seems to eb very awkward.<br> I need to reduce the stxt size ( ctrl - ----)<br> to shring the screen log off<br> and when I reply log in pops up.<br> is thisa falt or an undocumented feature.</p> <p>BTW recently you folks seemed very slow<br> I rebooted my cable modem and rounter<br> and that cleared things up.<br> if yur system seems very slow try tht.</p>

<p>the sampe inages seem familiar<br> we have an epson 2480 f b scanner with a 35mm film slot.<br> we had a few single frames of color negatives.<br> they would not feed correctly thru the slow.<br> we tried using the indvidiual slide holder<br> and got a very blue positive.<br> Epron told us that if we had a somewhat older scanner, that the older software/scanner was not o clever, and that we could sucessfully scan a singl frame.<br> but not with ours.<br> I looked on ebay but those older scanners semed pricey.<br> so there s a work-around?</p>

<p>I have 4 eos film bodies and one lens.<br> I asked and it was suggested that I search on using OTHER<br> non eos lenses to set the metering.<br> Using any fullyautomatic cameraq with a lens not specificallyintended ( this incluses any other lens on an eos)<br> will be awkward.<br> Missing the electical connections and auto-focus is the first bad bump.</p> <p>I have an older canon t-50. with any fd lens it is sort of a P&S casmera.<br> the experts warn that any other ( non-fd) lens is not usable.<br> I wonder about those folks who pay to modify FD lenses to fit and have infinity focus on an eos.</p> <p>Personally, I think it would not only be awkward but slow and not worth the trouble and expense<br> as well as ruining a good lens.</p> <p>Possibly there COULD BE a set of tubes or a bellows with electrical contats.</p> <p>Personally I still wish for a digital FD a or t saeries body.</p>

<p>the tendency today is to use a developer 1:1 or even more dilute.<br> Kodak descrived the life of a developer based on 80 ( please correct this if I am off)<br> fora certain amout of developer.<br> meaning if you mix 8 ox of developer you have 126 oz<br> but still only 8 oz of actual developer.<br> so be aware of this.<br> I always developed 2 rolls of ektachome 36 x 2) in a pimt tank using the normal time<br> and two more using the reccomended extended time.<br> But with B&W developer is so cheap that using more stock solution is not a problem.<br> developing film is a thankless tash. it is pretty hum-drum. so anything that makes the time go faster is a big plus.<br> O the other hand, it is a very inportant steps and affects the final print.</p> <p>I mix somewhat more than needed 16 oz tank- mix a little more and somewhat sloppily slightly over fill the tsank/</p> <p>my plastic tanks have a double flange for two rolls.<br> years ago developer often was on a large tank and highly concentrated.<br> so this was not a consideration.<br> many times a hollowed out car battery was used and there was a floating lid.<br> the same " soup" was used for weeks.</p> <p>I realize something like d-76 is often used at 1"1 and dicarder after use.<br> I agree. but just be sure that the solution is not too thin<br> whe old tanks were larger and al;so larger in diameter<br> olt tiers developed two rolls or 35mm or 120 back to back on the same spiral; reel.<br> but with smaller diameter reels this could cause problems.</p>

<p>I mis spoke<br> the sensomat re has stop down metering<br> http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Miranda_Sensomat<br> see the descriotion<br> so it is very unlikelythere is a lens problem<br> either battery or wire to the meter.<br> chack for corrocion in the battery compartment<br> sorry to be off base .</p> <p> so-any senomat will work.<br> as I said prices have soared<br> a pentax me super- originally $300 or a canon t70 sells for peanuts.</p>

<p>I have sensorex cameras and decidd ( this is before Miranda used prices skyrocketed)<br> to get additional bodies, I have a collection of Miranda senorex compatible lenes..</p> <p>I asked about repairs and was advized-- we do not work on those things--<br> the miranda cameras were usually well made and durable.<br> as far as I know all or mine work properly.<br> there were sticking diaphragms early on.<br> there was an issue with the wire from the meter ( on the mirror) to the body breaking.</p> <p>I think- not knowing much about sensomats)<br> that early ones uses stop-down metering.<br> his meant the lenses were the same as the f g with only one lever to close the diaphragm.<br> later senomats- I think-- offered full aperture metering.<br> which meant the lenses were marked e or ec.<br> likely these newer lenses would work on a sendorex ee ( full auto exposure)<br> this , if correct< would mean the purchase of a senorex ee or another sensomat re would be a less-expensive move.<br> also these cameras used a Mercury 1.35v battery.<br> the alkaline cell 1.5v or the silver oxide 1.55v will not work properly<br> the alkaling discharges at a steady slope<br> so iiutilly it is too high and later too low.<br> there is a hearing aid cell that is 1.4v that seems to work properly.<br> it s life is several months to possibly a year depending on locl humidity.<br> the win cell is similar.<br> TIP if the hearing aid cel works, paint 2 or the 4 iny holes with nail polish or crazy glue.</p> <p>so check the battery( do not think this is the problem)<br> look for another body.<br> Investigate if a sensorex ee is compatible with your lenses.</p> <p>avoid the regular sensomat except understnding th=at metering will be stop-down</p> <p>or the oher senorexes ( not ee) as they use a lens with an external arm to set the meter.</p> <p>Try miranda collectors as a Yahoo group<br> for better advice that I can give.</p>

<p>for most of my better cameras, they were made before dx coding.<br> so i set them manually.<br> many of the newer simpler cameras DEFAULT to iso 100. and my bulk film is iso 100.<br> some default to a different speed. the Pentax espio, 120mi as an example goes to asa 25 ) i remember that film)<br> strangely a few cameras will set with DX contacts to several speeds often 100/200/.400<br> and some will set iso 50 but not 64.. the last iso 64 film was Kodachome. RWO has a iso 64 B&W film according to what I read.<br> I reminise too muchj.<br> I klnow 126 cameras never worked well with slide film.<br> we used Kodachome ONCE in my wife's Yashica ezmatic electronic.<br> terrible results. any old 35mm manual camera worked better.<br> the argus c3 aND THE fUJICA CLASSIC iv( $15.00 NEW)</p> <p> </p>

<p>sorry, I looked for this post but could not find it.<br> the " didn;'t you like"<br> post was not out of line.<br> ONLY I want or need things to be as they were not as they are.<br> with kodak on top and all the old things still sold in stores.</p> <p> </p>

<p>well I thught I had sent a post.<br> BUT due to my very poor eyes I could not find it.<br> I went back ad searched again, and fould and read it.<br> I had convinced myself that I had not left a posting. or that it had been moved.<br> the nudge was proper.<br> I liked the answer.<br> Many years ago I used a LOT of film.<br> and used scotch taps-- but wrpped around the spool.<br> at that time Kodak used a very sticky taps.<br> but out here in the woods, many items are either hard to find or unavailable.<br> I will purchase some snap-cap cartriges and inquire at porter's camera store to see if I can get some dx coding labls.<br> the Mirand as and the canon a and t saeries ( I think) allow me to set the ISO manually.<br> </p>

<p>I have some used color film cartriges with a short tonge of film sticking out.<br> I need dx coded cartriges as some cameras have dx coding.<br> Is there a strong/sticky tape that will keep the film attached to that little tongue?</p> <p>Years ago , it was not as critical because I could wrap the tape around the spool.<br> now, with hard staked cartriges, I must attaqch the bulk film differently.<br> also most newer cameras are motorized.<br> any thoughts.</p>