walter_degroot

<p>first: I am 80 and have been an amateur photographer since 1947.</p> <p>I own many film cameras 16mm 35mm 120 and 4x5<br> I own several anlargers.<br> I own 4 digital cameras.<br> but when I look at the unified forum<br> I pay attenton to few keywords.<br> among them Kodak, Miranda . any other model camera I own<br> B&W film. I owfen read all classic camera POSTINGS.<br> MOST OF THE REST i IGNORE.<br> is this typical?</p> <p>what do others read and pay attention to?<br> I used to read some of the wedding postings as they often were intereswting<br> but not in the past few years.<br> the most interesting were the MNiranda camera posts<br> and the few c-41 processing commentys<br> such as wal-mart s dumb decisions.</p>

<p>wow needinh help to reload a 35mm camera.<br> not so rare. I saw that on a visit to a camera stre.<br> I wonder how many exposurs turned out?<br> how did he figure out exposure and focusing.<br> I know that my aunt who as a us army nurse.<br> used first a Kodakl 35rf and later n argus c-3.<br> she seemed to be very sucessful shooting Kodachrome asa 10.<br> she lkely did it all on her own.<br> My most embassasing moment was watching an older man snap a falash photo of a movie.<br> I saw that a couple of times.<br> or a young fathere snapping a Instamatic 10-4 at a large glass aquarium side ( with flash)</p> <p>On the other side, I wish I could figure a way to load my wife's old Yashica ez-matic 126<br> with bulk or other 35mm film.<br> anynoday want a 126 camera?</p>

<p>the kodapac cartige both 110 and 126 had some problems<br> it seemed to be fine for color print film as the majorities of cameras were simpole.<br> the notch did provide very basic setting of film speed<br> the drop-in loading seemed to be the only advantage.<br> the film channel did not provide accurate placement or film tightness i<br> at the gilm plae causing some unsharpness.</p> <p>and of course kodak aND OTHERS DICCONTINUES THE FILM AND THE KODAPACKS.</p> <p>IF THE JAPANESE HAD BEEN CLEVER OR SENSIBL ENOUGH<br> TO PROVIDE A STANDARDISES FILM CARTRIGE FOR THE 16MM CAMERAS THEY MIGHT HAVE CAUIGHT ON.<br> i am not tortally sure aBOUT THET.<br> FOLKS USED 120 127 116 616 122 and 620 roll film gor years.<br> something along that line might have workes<br> like n improved 828 format ( more exposures)<br> but the QL 35mm cameras workes very well.<br> if you are aLL THUMBS MAYBE THE SPOUSE SHOULD TAKE THE PHOTOS.</p> <p>since kodachrome is history as well as ektachome ( bye bye slide film)<br> it no longer seems to matter<br> even color print film is in serious decline.</p> <p>I am not all thumbs, but my vision and sometimes somewhat numb hands prevents me from using my 16mm cameras ( still cameras)</p> <p>I hope you can find a way to use these 110 cam,ewras.<br> since ferrania was the last to make 126.<br> and they intend to manufacture 35mm film<br> it is possible that5 at least 126 could appewar sometime.<br> they might still have the molds.</p>

<p>THIS IS JUST THE SORT OF THING I WOULD ENJOY<br> BUT MY EYES CANNOT COPE SADLY.<br> i did and thought a lot about photography then.<br> i set up my real drkroom in my basement.<br> went thru lots of film.<br> but i open your links but cannot see or read them </p>

<p>being given inheriting, or in my case being given many cameras by a person who knows they are seriouly ill.<br> van be both interesting and create a problem.<br> i started withe miranda d, graduateds to a sensorex - match needle- and after 30 yeasrs finbally bought two k mount cameras. i was satisfied with match pointer metering.<br> suddenly i hads a dozen canon a and t series cameras and many lenses.<br> I dither over which camera to use.<br> even though film is now harder to buy and dvlop. I still like these cameras.<br> I am also spoiled by the 32gb card in my Olympus xz-1 and hundreds of photos in a small package.</p> <p>I am always tempted by another lens for this model or that model. even though I hAVE THE SAME FOCAL LENGTH FR MOST MODELS. I can adapt my oldf ys lenses from the mirandas to the pentaXES.</p> <p>hONESTLY, i THINK IF i HAD FEWER CAMERAS OR MORE LIMITED RENAGE OF MODELS, i WOULD TAK MORE PHOTOS</p>

<p>I cnnot see or read the other responses<br> try fastone<br> check or uncheck boxed as you install<br> You may wind up installing other programs<br> BTW<br> Olympus' version of raw has a similar name but it is still a raw file.<br> I accidently reset my olympus xz-1 to raw and thje program easily converted.<br> I also set the camera to B&W<br> how?<br> that is between me and my aweful eyesight.</p>

<p>thank you for h pointers to models you own and like.<br> I was not able to find a nex-7 at a good price<br> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xnex-7.TRS0&_nkw=nex-7&_sacat=0</p> <p>for me cost is iportant.<br> I have two medium sized mp cameras good quality but<br> not tiny. and a member sent me a 10mp olympus xz-1.<br> I am very careful with it.<br> I would reaqlly like some kind of knock-about camera.<br> if it is broken or I walkinto the side of a doorway,<br> I do not want it to be a major tragedy.<br> for film I have a lot of P&S and many slr'ds/<br> but with film processing color is expensive.<br> and any small film camera is thicker than many digital cameras.</p> <p>so any thoughts and owner hapiness with small digicams is appreciated.</p> <p>also for give my broken sentences and the like./<br> hopefully soon the VA will ix my eyes.</p>

<p> I was browsing lstings of the pentax<br> optio s ultra compact cameras.<br> " the camera that fits in an altoids can"<br> I was wondering if there were other digital<br> cameras that are either slim or small.<br> perhaps not that tiny. bu<br> t still something that can be carried<br> about and not needed or noticed.<br> Instead of high end features.,<br> something that works wekk.<br> and is convenient to use.<br> I have some very tiny 35mm P&S cameras.<br> but the size of a 35mm cartrige limits<br> the "smallness" of such a camera would be<br> in daily use.<br> i AM ALSO WOR</p>

<p>KODAK had a pamphlet to make a simple copy stand from wood<br> uinfortunatly she is gone and I can no longer ask her.<br> I have the papnplet. I suppose I coud copy it enlarge it. and do it that<br> way. it requires access to an accurate table saw.<br> the column is two pieces of wood at 90 degrees<br> the camera holder is a triangle<br> and a long bolt and washers holds the camera bnracket.<br> it is sort of like an enlarger.. but with the wooden supports not a pipe column.</p>

<p>there was a post regarding this<br> and suggesting mirror finish mylar or other plastic material.<br> and it had to be shimmed so the focus was correct.<br> I think art and craft stores sell such material.<br> I do not consider this as a permanentt repair.<br> it might be as good as a GLASS FRONT SURFACE MIRROR.<br> CERTAINLY A LITTLE LESS EXPENSIVE.</p>

<p>an a related subjct. I shot sdome e-3 ektachome, and blue jackets became green.<br> this is a failure of that film to properly record color.<br> a color film contains " color couplers: that when acted up on by the color development step<br> convert to releas a certain color.<br> years ago therer were many color failures . Like under flourescent lighting made things grreenish.<br> it is hard for a film manufacturer to make these color couplers respond exactly.<br> er asre fortunate they respond in a generally correct way.<br> the human eye often sees diferently. perhaps differebt races or individuals see colors somewhat differently.<br> my experience has been that many aftro-americans are recorder on film as a tan or yellowish color.<br> I went to school with a pakistani who when weraring bathing trunks, had some flat black patcvhes on his chest.<br> he complained of probls as the whites of his eyes were slightly tan.<br> a frien from Ghana likely 100 percent african<br> is daRK BUT DARK BROWN NOT BLACK.<br> THE HUSBAND OF A FRIENS IS VERY DARK.<br> so things vary.<br> what we perceve a black people are not necessarily black. our eyes may not be able to<br> register the exact shade.<br> and different people may not be able to<br> distinguish small differences in color.</p> <p>my wife coud not determine shades of red ( yarn and cloth)<br> she would ask me I have pale flecked blue eyes she had brown eyes.<br> she was german and scots<br> I am dutch irish and scots. so <br> possible there are many other color vision differences in perception.<br> in this case it is the limitations of making film.</p>

<p>as a user not a repair person..<br> I think that this is a M42 camera.<br> mNY COMPANIES MAKE OR RE-BRAND THESE <br> CAMERAS. it would cost less to purchase another m42<br> camera or try a self lube job ( carefully)<br> rick oleson has a set of instuctions on cd for do-it -yuself repairs.<br> a repairman could do the job at 4x the cost of another similar camera.</p> <p>one of the compnies cosina or another simil name has a m42 camera with full aperture me<br> metering with regulAR single pin lenses.<br> it will work with third party or [entax lenses that will require stop down metering on the original body.<br> read the instructions on the butkus site to find out about<br> which moidels work at full aperture metering.<br> other cameras with a modified m42 mount do offer<br> full aperture metering BUT only with their own special m42 lenses.<br> this other japanese brand dscribed on the butkus site<br> will work with any single pin m42 lens as it tekes the exposure reading at the moment of exposure.<br> IF I were to buy a m42 based camera this is what I would get.<br> the build quality is not as high as other brands. you may obtain a few clunkers. but the overall cost still will be lower.<br> I feel the remaing few camera technicians are worth their costs. as it is exacting precise work.<br> I do not fault them.the other third party company is chinon.<br> I do fault the few I have asked to clean my Miranda 1.4 lenses.<br> I know the problems . but do not have the sghht tools<br> or skill to do the work. I hope this s a help to you<br> I own a Ricoh TLS a very heavy m42 ttl metering camera.<br> it is hard to set the meter inside. as it really gets dark when I stop-down inside.<br> it has turned me off to stop down metering.</p> <p> </p>

<p> many combinations of film and<br> developers are quite usable.<br> they will leaqd to pleasing and usable<br> results. the importand thing to remember that the film<br> has basic characteristics.<br> if the film yields very usable results in a standard<br> developer such as d-76, rodinal, or hc-110.<br> it will likely yield good results in other developers..<br> there are exceptions and some developers may yie;ld poorer results with some<br> films. If nobody says avoid a certain combination - believe it.<br> otherwise you will be satisfied.<br> once you choose a combination<br> stick with it. </p>

<p>because I cannot easil see/read long threads.<br> it may have been mentioned.<br> hrtbrt keppler "sneaked in" an old biotar<br> among several modern lenses<br> the biotar did very well.<br> very close to the batch of japanese lenses.</p>

<p>there is someone who does a<br> superb job converting a<br> 620 medalist to 120 film<br> same film and same backing.<br> IF YOU own the medalist it<br> might be better to buy a few<br> 620 spools and rewindimgg<br> 120 film on them.<br> use the camera ans see if you<br> reaqlly like it before you spend<br> a lot on converting it.<br> you may decide that it is too<br> big too heavy.++<br> or that 12 exposures is restrictive<br> 816 /116 film is wider than any easily<br> purchases film. i think it is 70mm ?<br> and you may have to purchase aerial<br> film. there was also other old sizes.<br> i have a few negatives larger than 4 x 5</p>

<p>i sent you a off forum post.<br> I realize that as os are upgraded many hardware devices abd even things such as video cards are no longer supported. it is not as terrible thing to be forced to use xp.<br> an additional virus protection program is necessarysuch as AVAST or AVG.</p> <p>thje serious downside for me is that some programs will not run.<br> I cannot run ztree fulkl screen NTI cd.dvd burner dowes not run in vista or 7.<br> even in a virtual pc ( tried it)<br> I do it for my needs as I cannot see too many winowy things.<br> there is an official sp4 for xp on softpedia.<br> and updates do appear ( still) for xp).</p> <p>an older pc may not properly support a newer OS<br> so if you upgrads the xp system to a newer OS some hardware may not woek.</p> <p>BTW years ago the cheap isa pnp scsi scanner cards were not supported in w 2000 and above.<br> the answer then was to use a real scsi card , there wre no isa slots and the old cards and drivers did not work at all. I think the compatibility problems are worse now.</p>

<p>agfa made some intesting 35mm rf cameras.<br> one kind that may disapoint you are the solid well made smaller german vf not rf cameras. I am sure they are well made but heavy and with limited shutter speeds.</p> <p>this is a real problem with modern films.<br> you may have to clank the shutter speed up and the aperture down just to use 400 film.<br> the days of asa 10,32 and 200 speed film are gone.<br> I have an argus a f. and will use iso 100 film developed in dilute rodinal as iso 50 gilm.</p> <p>remeber when asa 100 was high sped?</p> <p>I find too mush harder to understand automation and so called advanced featuresw annoying.</p>

<p>i HAVE A FEW 126 CAMERAS INCLUDING A YASHICA EZ-MATIC ELECTRONIC.<br> FREE TO EITHER A GOOD OR BAD HOME.<br> IT WORKED WITH ASA 64 PRINT FILM BUT NEVER WITH SLIDE FILM.<br> THE PROBLEMS i SEE WERE NOT MENTIONED.<br> 1- THE IMAGE IS 26.5 MM AND 35 MM FILM LIKELY WILL SHOW A FEW<br> EDGES OF SPROCKET HOLKES.<br> 2- THE SINGLE - PER FRAME- OF 126 IS BAFFLED BU THE MANY SPROPCKET HOLES OF 35MM FILM.<br> YOY CANOT TAPE BACK THE PRONG AS IT OFTEN COCKS THE SHUTTER.<br> AND ONE WAY IS TO BLOCK THE LENS AND MAKE SEVERAL BLOCKED EXPOSURES 6? TO ADVANCE TO THE NEXT FRAME.<br> ( no light leaks) this could serve to advance the film enough to elinate frame overlap.</p> <p>if you could advance and also cock the shutter another means to count would be required.<br> I would suggest the tip of a ty-rap causing a click as each sprocket hole is passed.<br> the paper hole would be blocked. and more than 20 exp could be available.</p> <p>exposure. asa 64 or most slow film is no longer made.<br> fuji has asa /iso 50 color slide film.<br> with B&W iso 100 film can be dveloped as iso 5. or just use normal development and let film latitude work.<br> if I were serious about this I would use iso 400 and develop it as iso 200 or let film latitude take over.</p> <p>If it used flash cububes, I would avoid taking flash photos.</p> <p>all in all you can go for it if you wish.<br> a small 35mm P&S uses easy ( for now) film and is easier handling.</p> <p>If you had something like and instamatic 500 eith a real lens and sutter.<br> you could get some fine photos.<br> but most-- the overwealming majority--- of 126 cameras were pretty mickey mouse.<br> they were really BOX CAMERAS with plastic lenses.</p> <p>I have several 127 cameras, a 8 exp with a curved film plane.<br> and two 127 16 exp " mini0caqndid: camwras that have a fklat plane.<br> I consider a ty wrap top will give me clicks. a 35mm spool- no cart. fits in the supply recess. and the edge sproket holes will not intrude too far. the film path is flat and it should be lots of fun.<br> at least less complicated than using a 126<br> now my 16mm cameras-forget it.</p>

<p>the ultimite rangefinder is the<br> CANON 7 there are less expensive versions as well.</p> <p>rick oleson bought one as the canon 7 is very excpensive.<br> the openingh back and single window vf.rf is a big plus. no it is not a Leica but is a high quality machine.<br> there are a raft of Japanese rf cameras.<br> some varied greatly in build quality. I do not think it makes sense o repair many as they were built at a price. but a few examples of ogg brand cameras may be decent if not oputstsanding.<br> many of the big names-- it seems nikon and pentax did not make many if any rf cameras-<br> the ones that come to mind are yashica olympus canon and konica and minolta.<br> some only got serius abut rf cameras when smaller, often semi automatomated careas were popular.</p> <p>yashica mamiya and olympus made many models. there are devotees of cameras such as the olymus 35rc that require some<br> understanding to use it more seriously than p&s mode..<br> I own both a canonet28 and a konica c35<br> ( no flash and a real rangefinder.<br> I own a early yashica lynx ( no batteries)<br> I used my brothers mamiya ruby, bery typical<br> if small rf cameras. I wish I has asked for it.<br> he is dead and I am not bold enough to ask his family.</p> <p>I think you will enjoy owning and using these cameras. I also own many plastic semi auto cameras. and they, so far, seem to work well. I also own some 16mm cameras ( still)<br> but I see better use for the 35mm smaller cameras.</p>

<p>back in film days- and I was there-<br> each film mostly color slide films had there own characteristics<br> I ues the original Kodachrome asa 10.<br> it was not true color. it wass very slow and exposure was critical.<br> what colors it had were vivid and as said not accurate.<br> still I loved it. I also used some of the asa 25 and 64 film.<br> the 64 often seemed a little :orange:<br> but not excessivly sop.<br> before the faster kodachome., I som,etimes used ektachrome. it tended to be blue in the shadows.<br> My electonic flash was weak and I needede the added speed.<br> some dyed clothing actualkly shifted colors.<br> I used a little agfachome and it was said to have softer "uropean style" colors.<br> I never used much fujichrome.<br> I did use anscochrome and if processed by ansco was a pleasinmg film.</p> <p>with digital many restrictions are removed.<br> and colors can be fine tuned.<br> I do miss kodachome 10 and ansco. however.</p>

<p>i wanted a kmount camera ans specifically something fairly simple like the k 1000.<br> I notice and was advised it is a cult camera.<br> meaning , long after I was discontimued. teachers of photography. advised sudents to get one.<br> and the model popularity made is sell for higher prices.<br> I was also tild the Japanese made cameras are bett er<br> tjhen the later chinese models. still labled pentax.<br> since I am always nearly broke. I purchased a ricoh kr5.<br> it is debatable if it is cosina or ricoh built.<br> I am told to ignore the self timer.<br> but the metering is colored leds.<br> there is no fragile meter that can be damaged by a severe bump.<br> the shutter is metal with a top speed of 1/2000/<br> the flash synch is 1/125.<br> so- if it keeps working is is a good model to own. as well as being compatible.<br> I have two tx ( changable mount_ lenses 35 &28 mm f.2.5.<br> and a ys adapter so my several older lenses cab be used.</p> <p>I also have a pentax me super and the lenses that came with it.<br> the me super is manual or full autpo metal shuytertr<br> and oftn sell for lower prices.<br> IU t is odd inthat it has no shutter dial but up/down buttons.<br> I have also considered a pentax kx,<br> as said because of the extreme popularity<br> of the k 1000. it is priced higher than other models.<br> I like the camera and it's features<br> but I am unable or unwilling to pay more than for other useful k mount cameras.</p>

<p>iI had some kodak developer in cans. the top rotted thry<br> other cans were ok.<br> the poches/ packets seem ok<br> they did not ozidize-turn brown-<br> I would guess 20+ years.<br> I think m5 30 year old bottle of rodinal is ok.<br> I have some metol 3069 years that has not urned brown.</p> <p>I used it with sodium sulfite???<br> to make d-23.</p> <p>but test it first.<br> sme agree and others disagree about the wisdom og mixing up enough or omnne session 8 ox<br> by using plastic spoone and a packet of d-76.</p> <p>the autor seemed to aprove and did careful testing<br> It is a 5 page article/</p>

<p>easy for me.<br> early I had some simple cameras a metal 120-8 which I hated.<br> It vasnaiushed as well as my babby brownie special 12-8<br> left at home<br> they vanished whie I was in the service<br> the rolfix dies but not missed.<br> I sold my first slr but I had another.<br> a mirands D. I sort of miss it.<br> all the others I still have<br> so really no regrets.<br> I sort of miss the argus c 3 but it went to a good home.<br> I missed my federal 135 enlarger but I have a better one that has a filter drawer.<br> Maybe my fujica classic IV</p> <h4>a very basic viewfinder camera $15</h4> <p>someone really wanted it and willingly paid the same price.<br> by thrn i had a slr and did not look back.</p>

<p><strong>is gradually causing labs processing film</strong><br> <strong>to become harder and harder to find. <br /></strong><br> <strong>after wal mart ( according to posts) <br /></strong><br> <strong>stopped returninhg nmagatives<br /></strong><br> <strong>I ingnored them as a source.<br /></strong><br> <strong>wjem I asked<br /></strong><br> <strong>a;l; the premium- meaninmg expensive-<br /></strong><br> <strong>pl;aces are mentioned.<br /></strong><br> <strong>a search yielded mostly high prices labs.<br /></strong><br> <strong>it seems film is really going away.<br /></strong><br> <strong>yes I have digital cameras.<br /></strong><br> <strong>and quite a good one from another p netter.<br /></strong><br> <strong>but I still like film and film cameras.<br /></strong></p>

<p>as henry p[psner posted very accurately.<br> kodachome originally sold in 1935, was a multi layer B&W film with fiklter layers between three<br> emulsions.<br> It is still possible, at home, to develop Kodachome as a bl;ack and white negative film.<br> It is likely or possible, due to the age of the film that results would be fogged or generally poor.<br> as henry said color is added at the time of development.<br> processing is supposedly very critical/<br> despite this some former Kodak employees mentioned that K 200 was developed in a sinmk.<br> as a slide film.<br> and modern Photography mentioes that some bnold soul had sucessfully developed Kodachome the same way<br> starting in the 1930's agfa ( the germans were very advanced)<br> sold a color film. I assume with color couplers in the emulsion so when deveoloped the colors would appear.<br> I think ansochome was based on this technology.<br> Kodak later made ektachome. it , i the early years , was not a great film.<br> these and fujicolor were all similar.<br> but not identical.<br> I recall a roumor thjat Ilford once made a color slide film similar to Kodachome, I am not sure.<br> Perutz and others also made ektachome/agfachome type films.</p> <p>I due miss kodachome.<br> with everything going digital<br> and onlu fuji still making slide film.<br> it will be only a matter of a few years before we see less and less film photography.<br> Oh yes Dynachome in rocester made a kodachome type film.<br> It seemed to be possible in the 1960's<br> to copy the moset com,plicated film ever made.<br> I do not know how much they relied on kodak technology and chemicals.</p> <p>there is a stite that I have lost that offered kodachome B&W negative processing<br> and instructions.</p>