yockenwaithe

<p>I'm just curious, not particularly looking to get one<br> The Lomo Petzaval was the only one I could find, as it's the only newly released one</p>

<p>So quick question, I occasionally see some folks on here with really old brass-bodied Petzvals and other lenses from the early 20th/late 19th century mounted on a DSLR; the question is, where can I buy these? I'm having trouble finding any</p>

<p>It's a Pro S back, I may get a Pro SD back for that reason [i got it for ten bucks anyhow, so not a huge loss]<br> I'll check the seals around all of the edges in any case</p>

<p>Alright, I'll check that part of the camera out, I've been trying to emulate it with an LED torch and it doesn't seems to be popping up, so maybe it happens after the back is rotated? I'll run some tests to be sure</p>

<p>So I've shot a test roll on my RB67, and more than half of the images have this heavy light leak on them, what could be the possible causes of this? I'm thinking it's possibly the dark slide slot, but there are plenty of laces I'd imagine light could get in and I'm no expert on this<br> link to an example is

<p>I very much doubt the markup on any camera isn't huge compared to cost of manufacture, probably the reason behind digital rot short of 'old camera' stigma <br> Maybe they're lower in the US also because Americans better know the value of the cameras? Who can say for sure, especially with how expensive some are becoming</p>

<p>I for one think the sharpened detail looks a little pebble-y for my tastes, do you have a full pic with the sharpened grain?</p>

<p>Rugged? Dumb? Have you looked at the Mamiya RZ67? As long as you don't care about weight and/or older backs [which I think reach about 8,000 big clams if you can find them]<br> I've heard you can use an RB67 with a digital back also, but it requires a special adapter <br> Also, I think the Mamiya 645 has a digital back, worth looking into</p>

<p>A Kiev-88, yeah I'd say it's a VERY common problem [Kiev 88's are notorious for having the crappiest of crappy shutter mechanisms], I'd recommend having someone look at it unless you're proficient with mechanical cameras</p>

<p>A lower cost would be nice, I don't mind if they change the sensor, rangefinder, viewfinder, etc. Just something I can but without selling a limb<br> Maybe something like an M2 with a sensor, just bare-bones features, a good sensor, ISO dial, and speed dial is all I really need. Maybe with a fixed lens</p>

<p>I'd say bite the bullet and open it to see if the paper backing came off of the film itself and caught itself on something, it happened to me once<br> If that's not it probably something is jammed in the gears and I wouldn't try to crank on it</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses all, since I mostly shoot static objects/portraits anyhow, it seems like it might be a good choice to get the daguerreotype used- my birthday's coming up so I can 'gift' myself one ;)</p>

<p>How do you print your photos? Do you get it done professionally or get it done yourself? I find that some of the companies that do prints do horrible jobs, while some are great <br> Do you also use VR lenses, or a tripod? Both can do wonders for camera shake, and VR lenses are worth a look at</p>

<p>I'm specifically talking about the Petzval and Daguerreotype lenses, they look VERY interesting, but I honestly don't know how much use I would get out of one.<br />In particular, the Petzval looks like it needs to subject to be smack in the center, and it seems pretty evident they both were meant to be portrait lenses; the question is, are they good for anything else?<br />Does anyone have experience with this they wouldn't mind sharing, and how much use they actually get [whether in the studio or the field]?</p>

<p>And the old tried and true 'hold your breath in and then shoot' like a desert sniper [though if you hold your breath too long that's a different story]<br> Also the burst fire technique does work really well, you're right about that</p>