walter_degroot

<p>a few years ago I joinded the mamiya form<br> BUT all i have is two mamiya auto 16 cameras.<br> I saw that the Mamiys M42 cameras seemed to be popular but pricey.<br> While searchig I say that the company made several different mounts besides the M42.<br> this was a turn off. Even my Miranda Sensorexed are easier to find than some of the Mamiya ( non-m42) cameras.<br> <em> m sure If I had one of there I would get the " not only no but hell no"</em><br> <em>response I get when asking about Mirandas<br /></em><br> <em>As A result the M42 cameras may be ok<br /></em><br> <em>but the others-- oddball by sesign.<br /></em><br> <em>thisisnot to say they can be useful camewras.<br /></em><br> <em> </em><br> <em>the re are other makes/ that appeal to m,e more.<br /></em><br> <em>only pentax k and canon fd are easy to deal wih.<br /></em><br> <em>If I was starting over I would possibly choose minolta or Nikon.<br /></em><br> <em> </em></p>

<p>I was recently asked for enlager manual info<br> after the crash i no longer have it<br> bu here is one cource<br> http://www.jollinger.com/photo/enlargers/</p>

<p>MOST PHOTOGRAPHY S 1- INSIDE A BUILDING<br> OR 2- OUTSIDE IN DAYLIGHT.<br> Insidwe often with a flash. the walls change the erxposure by reflecting light. n a church or large hall or a sports arena ( often lighted)<br> exposure must be adjusted to allow for the lack of reflection<br> from the walls of an average room.</p> <p>Outside in daylight the sunlight acted as a fill-background light.<br> You may notice snaps taken in a suburban back yard or at a picnic grove display the background as not as bright as remembered.<br> this is because the flash is brighter and causes the distant backgrownd not to be properly exposed.<br> outdoors i the open. the fl;ash and the tolerance or film or the digital sensor will expose groups of people more or less properly.<br> but skylines hills or scenes- even if lighted- wil b poorly exposed.<br> in this case some thought and manual settings- not always possible with modern cameras- will be required/<br> not to go back into history<br> BUT Modern Photograp[hy published a guide for many common situations.<br> Many modern cameras are not well suited for most night-time scenes.<br> I know that a gude ( no line) for my Old Canon G2 showed it night-tie scenic<br> capabilities it has a fast lens.</p>

<p>i have my old GE golden crown pr-3.<br> it is easy to use and pretty much a universal meter.<br> set the asa ( iso) with a magnifier and the rest is easy- wven with poor eyes.<br> mine still seems ok after 40 years.<br> pointer, as far as I recall, has no lock.<br> the standard is the weston meter but the [<br> I also buily a Knight-kit cd s meter.<br> It needs some kid of mercury or zinc-oxide cell (2)<br> it features a Honneywell taught-band meter.<br> which makes it resistant to bumps.<br> ( allies radio corp)<br> an at the time was known as the "<br> poor man s luna six)<br> it sold for under $20.00</p>

<p>free as in free but hard to figure out<br> well i tried but did not finf a way to download nything/<br> maybe it is just my eyes?</p>

i have sort of a pet peve. my first three cars were Studebakers. Possibly because the dealers were friends. But I left the Studebaker site because nobody left the cars stock. they always had to change something. Other cars were altered and grilles replaced ( someties the results were ugly)\A few models from the 1950 s and 1960 s could use a little "enhancement" But most, at least according to my thoughts" were just fine as they were originally made. We owned a "sort of" Victorian home., and subscribed to the "old house Journal" a rear page was always dediucated to "":old house remuddling" I generally feel the same way about many car modicications. OF COURSE the man, who in the 1950 s had an old old car with a exposed radiator cap with a cap gun attached to the chrome radiator cap and fired with a long wire. that was cool. Or the man with an old chevy coupe who cut out the firewall and installed a mammon straight 8. or the 1950 ford with a flathead 1948cadilac engine. I loved those "sleepers"

<p>I agree that Black cmeras are beauties and "<br />classics"</p> <p>I almost bought a black Miranda sensorex from essex camera service when they were in Jersey city.<br> but I a more reminded of the letter in Modern Photography.<br> Black cameras were considered to be PRO and many wanted a blkack camera.<br> Modern, I think in a column gave instructions, very specific instructions"<br> on howto remove the top and bottom vovers and prep ad spray the metal and bake it.<br> it was carefully described/<br> However some Yahoo<br> took his crome cam,era and witout paying attention to this.<br> aimes a spray can at his camera.</p> <p>turns out according to what he wrote<br> he ruined the camera.<br> what a waste.<br> and not paying attention.<br> he was mad at th m,agazine for even suggesting this.</p> <p>I never went so far.<br> I DID ues a yellow china marker to fill in the white engravings on my Konica c-35 RF camera.</p> <p>I wonder if that guy ever got his camera working again?</p>

<p>loading a tank is a manual skill. just like learning to tie shoos in Kindergarten.,<br> I started with 120 film and an old tank in 1948.<br> the wider grooves halped<br> later in 1950 127 film and a FR Special tank.<br> I still have that tank and some new ones. from 1960 on I used only 35mm film.<br> the sharp hook in the senter and leaning how to be gentle handling film helped as lot.<br> the nikkor and other metal reels are more of a challenge.<br> but practice in daylight wilth some film and you will get the hang of it.<br> Once learned, it is a manual skill youwill not forget.<br> prectice.<br> it is easy to becoe disoriented in the dark.<br> you do not need eyes to do this. same as tying shoes.<br> the worst thing to do is forcing the film ona reel.</p> <p>Even though I seldom load film. I find when I do, the hand skillis still there.<br> do not become discouraged.</p>

<p>I HAVE A FEW B@W ROLLS PLUS TWO BULK ROLLS.</p> <p>i have too many 35mm cameras to count.<br> i also have 20+ rolls of color print film in the freezer.<br> since the new walmart opened and has no mini lab,<br> i have not used any colo film and only 2 or 3 rolls of b@w.<br> there seem to be no mini-labs.</p> <p>the other factor is my eyes.<br> oct 11 is when i am supposed to have a cataract operation.<br> we will see.<br> meanwhile i take out the film cameras<br> the argus af, the kodak signet, the miranda s, pentaxes and the canons.<br> they will, I hope , eventually get used<br> I also have digicams. Including a 10mp Olympus xz-1. donaTED BY A PHOTO-NETTER<br> THANK YOU AGAIN. <br> THIS MAY BE ALL THE CAMERA i WILL EVER NEED/</p> <p>lest I forget a seagull 203 and a speed and crown graphic 4X5 and a 4 x 5<br> usmc combaT GRAPHIC.<br> IF I LIVE SEVERAL MORE YEARS I HOPE TO USE THEM ALL<br> OH YES A BOX OF 20" P&S 35MM</p>

<p>this was the year after i was married.<br> i dragged my poor wife to camera stores.<br> i finally let her tay home and resy.</p> <p>I was still using the Classic IV and the argus c-3.<br> Later I bought a miranda D as it had a removable prism.<br> BUT the external coupled diaphragm ( a la exacta)<br> meant any future lenses would be preser.<br> Later my brother gifted me with a Miranda sensorex and I boughht more lenses.<br> I am still mostly interested in close ups and for that reason have the waist level and critical viw=ew finders.<br> Back then either Kodachome or Plus-x were my films.<br> Kodachrome and even plus-x are now gone.<br> Kodak does not make B&W paper.<br> but I am still thinking the same way.<br> I have fully automatic cameras as well as 4 digitals, but the early full auto cameras sometimes confuse me.<br> aaagh modern photography magazine and bert Keppler. How I miss them.<br> Pop photagraphy magazine is the pits<br> That is if they still publish it.</p> <p> </p>

<p>i was just on the 'bay<br> looking atused cameras.<br> i purchased som pc memory<br> and the $10.00back popped up/<br> sure why not<br> i did not object to giving out my e-mail affress and street address.<br> BUT<br> when they asked for my passwrd<br> and bvank card number, i hit the red x<br> and exited.<br> i know i can send money to a person<br> with only heir email address ( one they use for their paypal account)<br> but my numbers are supposed to be kept secret.<br> if ebay wanted ( or paypal) wanted to send me monet they don't need this info, only <br> my email address.</p> <p>is this a trick to get to my ( little)<br> money?</p>

<p>i have two mamiya auto 16 cameras and one<br> other simpler sub-min camera. I even ( somewhere) have empty cartriges<br> for the mamiya cameras.<br> and a flange for the FR tank to develop 16mm film.<br> I never used any or then.<br> I l;ooked for a Mamiya " enla head"</p> <p>this is a device that resembles an enlarging lens.<br> it has condensers at the top<br> and a slot for 16mm film and a 25mm enlarging lens.<br> screws into your enlarger and sort-of converts it to a usable 16mm enlarger.</p>

fashe bulns strted in the 30s 40 s and early 50 s as 121 and 22 the 11 was like a 60 watt bulb the 5 bu;lns use a base like an auto tailhht bulb with the same base as a household bulb. L there were smallet bulbs with a 3.8" dialmeter base? with a groove there was a common adapter that ft the bayonet sopcket. and permitted the use of the - was it m2 and m3b bulbs? likely theargus flash holder early on used the screw base bulbs'and later the bayonet -auto style- bulbs. when I had a c-3 and an electronic flash, I used a cord with two ouls that fit the glash contacts. I had mine apart and I think I found a way to change the timing. but i did use the old electronic flash but do not recall if I could expose at faster speeds. try flashing while the backl is open to check timing it costs a LOT less.' besides with today's fast films the flashj is far too bright. The lens was sharp and you will be pleased with the phots making an adapter could be a probkem. but better to display the camera flash and bulbs in a display case. there is an argus forum that can be a big help

<p>i only own minolta p@s cameras.<br> i like minolta, but did not get involved with a 4th lens mount.<br> browsing the big bay site, I see lots of Minolta cameras of that era.<br> I did "study" the brand enough to know the difference so the full apeture<br> lenses would be my first choice if i were buying a minolta.<br> i see lots of minoltas. and you should be able to get another for a low price,<br> i, of course, would try hard to repair the screwed up camera.<br> it would really botherme to have an almost working camera.<br> enjoy film photography.<br> i have yet to use all the canon cameras i sort of inherited</p>

<p>i had corres[pndense wit anthony in the uk<br> regarding a sigma 135mm miranda sensorex lens<br> he said he would send a paypal invoice to cover costs.</p> <p>my eyes, as you may know, are very poor.<br> and i looked for but did not see an e-mail.</p> <p>i don't really know how this works<br> but i have sent cash tppeople in the past.<br> i just sent it to an email address.<br> I hope anthony sees this and I can<br> get this lens. </p>

<p>i apologize for not being on line to amswer<br> the ofer to give away 2 rolls of ektachrome tunsten 50</p> <p>I have been spenting most of my time workingO N not with my pc.</p> <p>I think I finally have things working again.<br> this pc would not go on line.<br> adding Mozilla seemed to make it work.<br> I was able tomake IE 8 install;</p> <p>I have two pc s with the same mb.<br> so drives work in both.</p> <p>Back to film...<br> I see no future in slide film.<br> I did dume slides<br> and I did make prints from both negs and slides.<br> I will shoot soeme c-41<br> anmd do B&W.<br> I have many cameras - why not.<br> health is better<br> still waiting for two catarect operations.</p> <p>but id someone is interested the ektachome e-6 tungsten iso 50 is waiting.</p>

<p>you have a similar problem to the person wanting 620<br> spools.<br> I will give similar advice.<br> see if a 120 spool will fit in the supply side<br> develop it yourself.<br> and look on the massive developing chart to find a way to develop<br> to reduce speed.<br> I think they Kodachome was not available at least for a long time<br> in roll film sizes.<br> if you have a tourist with an adjustable lens ans sgutter<br> life will be eassier.</p>

<p>i thought nobody still did ektachrone<br> i have 2 rolls 135-36<br> of e-6 iso 50 tungsten<br> just sitting here waiting for soneone<br> i wil still ( when and if i can see againb)<br> some b&w wth a few of my many film cameras.<br> scanner and 35mm enlarger</p> <p>who would like some semi-rare iso 50 tungsten ektachrome?</p> <p>I bought it to photograph hollowed out us coins<br> but never used thge last two rolls</p>

<p>to get you started<br> try a 120 spool in the supply side<br> i do not like the scheme of trimming edges of a plastic 120 spool.<br> this often means loading in darkness.</p> <p>if by lucky chance a 120 spool will fit in the take-up side<br> you can fold a thin piece of metal or the very thick aluminum foil at the tops of some coffee cans<br> or a snip from a soda can.</p> <p>i think possibly " film for classics" is out of business.</p> <p>anyway good luck.<br> a source for reasonally priced film is<br> photo warehouse<br> or the web nane<br> ultrafineonline.<br> sorry only 120<br> but possibly you can make use of some.</p> <p>i have a reated issue with my argus a2 *1936(<br> there is no suitable b&w film made.<br> if i use 100 speed film, i can develop it in rodinal<br> diluted as a iso 50 film</p>

<p>i own a signet 35 as well as a pony with an adjustable shutter, abd a pony iv with few adjustmentsi was advised that my argus a-f (with focusing) is not really a f4,5 lens but smaller stops are ok.</p> <p>poor vision has prevented me from taking photos<br> but the lack og chest pains means all i need is a cateract operation.</p> <p>i agree that the german and -do not know- japanese cameras of that era- early 1950,s were more advanced.<br> voightlander made some tanks- heave not masny features but well made at that time.<br> ogten sold in jewlers.<br> i realize that elkectronic flash is not practial with many older cameras<br> two reasons- they had M synch<br> and possibly 1/30 wasthe shutter speed to use.<br> also that had an asa post noy s pc connerction.<br> OP have an adapter somewhere.<br> but c aznnot find one on the big auction site.<br> the third reason is the lack of slower film.</p> <p>i can develop iso 100 film as iso 50 in rodinal. possibly other developers.<br> OK I look forwars to seeing better</p>

<p>I am surpeised. hp computers and laptops<br> seem to be of high quality. But bad things do happen.<br> My son has purchaed two dell laptops that were " refurbs" or returned from lease.<br> they were originally priced at about $3000 and he got them for less than $500 each.<br> that have large didplays. lighted keys and two HD bays.<br> th advantage f a DELL is that a generic dell windows cd will install without a key.<br> this is NOT a hack but a licensed agreement between microsoft and Dell.<br> of course there is a limitation.<br> meaning old software or too new software ( operating system) will hav problems finding the proper video or sound driver.<br> both people are very pleased.<br> If someone else gives you another suggestion fine.<br> we are using HP desktops. with the original key.</p>

<p>THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE KIND THOUGHTS<br> I am 80 and think my heart problems are suceffully repaired<br> several doctore feel my old heart has been thru a lot.<br> and there is a possibility they something else will " get me"<br> I find recouperation to be slower than the 5 x bypass 12 years ago<br> the chect pis stopped when they put in the new heart valve.<br> remeber you vets, the VA will pay for it.</p> <p>Jim sent me many canon cameras<br> but I still love my miranda sensorexes ( not ee)</p> <p>sometimes too muc automation comfuses me.</p> <p> </p>

<p>sometimes while readinf a post i can reoly<br> sometimes not</p> <p>I log out and log in and sometimes it helps<br> sometimes i shut down th browser<br> but nothing is sure.<br> any thoughts on how to make replying easier to do<br> clkicking on the remeber me box does not seem to hsalp.</p> <p> </p>

<p>first it was my wide fingers and manbe my hand-eye co-ordination<br> as well as my poor vision ( hopefully corrected soon)<br> I took an AE-1 wqith a 50mm lens. I was able to turn it to A or the f-stops<br> -- yes I had figured out the button by the A.<br> then I tried itwith the 35-70 zoom.<br> At first iz had no luck. but pressing harder and carefi=ully I was able to move it to either f-stops or to A.<br> sorry to be unsure but I fooled around with it last night and was totally unsucessful.<br> as far as my health is concerned.<br> both the VA and the hospital seem to be waithing for me to " get better"<br> as far as I know there is a 25 pound lifting limitation due to be over in a few weeks.<br> ( cteracts othjer things)<br> The procedurew was doe thru a catheter no chest cracking.</p> <p>for those of you who are Veterans " veteran s choice"<br> allows yu to pick a very good civilian hospitan for more serious procedures.<br> it is covered by your va benefits.</p> <p>thanks for the kind words. i will be 81in septemberr.<br> and i sort of wonder if it is really s0.<br> i seem to be treated like a really old guy.<br> i suppose in a few years i will begin to feel old.<br> this lens malfunction is more of a fumble-fingers issue.</p> <p>btw when jim. a long term smoker was diagnosed, he sent me many of his canon a and t series cameras.<br> and 4 eos rebels and one lens.<br> i can still see well enough to frame and focus<br> but those little numbrs and dials are beyond me.</p> <p>ao.</p>

<p>several weeks afo i bought a canon fd 35-70 lens.<br> after several ambulnce rides, a new heart valve. i could not locate the lens.<br> last night i found it again.<br> mounted it on a canon body.<br> it seems the lens aperture ring will not move off A.<br> either on or opff the at-1 body.<br> the A is at 11 o clock and the aperture settings at 2, as viewed from the front of the lens.<br> it seems to be ob proply.</p> <p>i bought this lns from the big reliable place in atlants.</p> <p>any thoughts ?<br> the aperture seems small and th f-stop rig winn not move.<br> the mount is bayonet not the older locking ring type.</p> <p>i have other canon fd bodies.</p>