BeBu Lamar
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Everything posted by BeBu Lamar
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Nikon to Acquire US Cinema Camera Manufacturer RED
BeBu Lamar replied to ShunCheung's topic in Nikon
Nikon will have to develop video lenses which they can do. Not a problem. Does RED own any manufacturing facilities? And where are their factories located? -
Nikkormat FT3 auto indexing problem
BeBu Lamar replied to vincent_sebastiano's topic in Classic Manual Film Cameras
I can't see how it doesn't allow you to set f/22. Auto Indexing is really no indexing. -
Back in the late 70's I considered the Rollei 35 and the Minox EL as a compact camera. Finally I setted on the Olympus XA.
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- film
- ilford delta 100
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I think the battery is likely to swell when you charge it. I have laptop with swelled batteries and like wise you would charge the Iphone battery inside the phone.
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Flash Watt.Second based on capacitor size.
BeBu Lamar replied to BeBu Lamar's topic in Lighting Equipment
I much rather using Jurassic stuff than Chinese made stuff. -
Why do you think the display is not correct?
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In fact if the internal battery goes bad I would find shop that is willing to cut it out. I don't care for the cloc/calendar function.
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I don't worry about losing time. I worry about if the internal battery got depleted for a long time it may not take the charge any more so that when you put the EN-EL back in there it keeps draining it because it would constantly charge but not full. Unlike top end cameras like the D5 which has user replaceable battery for this, my Df will have to send it to Nikon and in the future Nikon may not even service it any more.
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I would keep a full charged battery in the camera. I too am afraid that the internal battery gets discharged for a long time and goes dead. Unlike some top of the line cameras, the internal battery in my camera is not user replaceable so it would be expensive to have Nikon do it and down the road Nikon wouldn't even do it.
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I am all for getting rid of the mechanical shutter but I don't really feel I would need the global shutter.
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Epson RD1 beats Leica to the punch...
BeBu Lamar replied to hjoseph7's topic in Leica and Rangefinders
I like the camera but it's not full frame. If it's full frame it would be a great camera with the film advance level (used only for shutter cocking). Even with the rewind knob. So cool. -
If you only run Adobe software then I think the Mac is best.
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The F4 has more display problem than the F3. I saw many F4's with bleeding display.
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I do meant compared to the FM3a but someone mentioned the F3 and still the F3 is simpler than the New F-1.
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My F3 is very old. LCD is fine. Metering and shutter speed are very accurate. The F3 was of a much simpler design partly because of the Nikon Lenses and because it doesn't support shutter priority mode. The F1 was very complex in order to support both aperture priority and shutter priority. Also due the the coupling of the FD lenses it's complex to provide meter manual mode. You can see the A-1 and AE-1 don't have meter manual mode. When you switch to manual you see the suggested aperture in the viewfinder but not the aperture you set. To provide both the suggested aperture and the aperture you set on the F1 is quite a complex design.
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The New F1 did have a hybrid shutter and can operate many shutter speed without battery (many but not all speeds) https://global.canon/en/c-museum/history/story06.html The new F1 was an extremely complex in design and thus I wouldn't choose it over the Nikon.
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I think the name is not correct here. I believe the F1N is the second version of the F1 and all shutter speeds are mechanical only like the F1. The New F1 is the lastest version with the small grip like that on the A-1 has hybrid shutter. If you want to use the mechanical shutter you have to remove the battery.
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Back in 2002 I could buy the FM3a for less than $600 new but I bought the F5 instead for $1930. I can't sell my F5 now but if I bought the FM3a I would sell it for the money. The F5 is still worth more to me but I can't sell it for money like I could with an FM3a.
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I have a question for the OP. How much money did you lose by adding all the money you spent buying all those equipment and subtract the money you got for selling them? I am curious because I know I may buy all the stuff you bought but I really can't sell them for the lost that they incur.
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Flash Watt.Second based on capacitor size.
BeBu Lamar replied to BeBu Lamar's topic in Lighting Equipment
My mistake. I got it right now. The caps are rated at 500V not 400V as I said. The step up transformer secondary is about 350VAC RMS with 120VAC input from the outlet. This voltage is rectified and charge 1 or 2 banks of 2 caps. It would charge 1 cap for half of the cycle and charging the other cap the other half of the cycle. It's a voltage doubler circuit. The fully charge caps has the voltage of 487VDC (this because the peak of the AC cycle is 1.414 times the RMS value). These 2 caps are connected in series and thus gives the total voltage of 975VDC. There is a choice of 120ws or 240ws. If the choice is 120ws then only 1 bank of caps is charged. So the 2 480uF caps in series makes them 240uF. Parallel that to the other bank makes it 480uF again but the voltage rating is now 1000V instead of 500V. So at 975VDC and 480uF the energy is 228J which is close to the rating of 240ws. -
Flash Watt.Second based on capacitor size.
BeBu Lamar replied to BeBu Lamar's topic in Lighting Equipment
I think I made some mistakes. I don't feel like to power it up with the caps outside of the case. The caps may be rated for 480V now I am not sure. I will have to take it apart again later. Thanks for all the replies. This is not a monolight. It's a power pack capable of 3 heads. -
With the Sekonic L718 you still have to get the 5 degree spot attachment. I would recommend the Minolta Spotmeter M. I saw several on ebay for $150 or so. Its a 1 degree meter and would do average and also uses only 1 AA battery. It also has a real on/off switch so it can't drain the battery either.
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For a spot meter the smaller the spot the better it is. It's a compromise because making the smaller spot you lose sensitivity and also make the meter less accurate.
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I have this Novatron 240 which is supposed to be 240WS. I found 4 capacitor of 480μF and rated at 400V. So assuming that the voltage will be 350V (I think they don't charge the capacitors to their rated voltage) and using the formula E=1/2CV² so it's only 117J or 117Ws wich is about half of what is rated? Did I make wrong calculations somewhere?
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I would rather forgo the meter than focus with the lens stopped down. I need the shallow DOF to focus as I don't use the split image rangefinder.