BeBu Lamar

Which version of the F or F2 are you talking about. Although my first camera was the F2AS and I loved it, I did think its large photomic prism was ugly. I think the F3HP is a very good looking camera.

Ben I sent email to you. I have to use wetransfer because gmail doesn't allow to send zip files.

Most don't but that's fine but what I am surprised that among those who bought these retro cameras don't agree with me either.

I found that the FM is more difficult to hold with the MD-12 attached. I my opinion the Zf has good ergonomic. Much better than most modern cameras.

I will make floppy images and send it to you. Would be sometimes later in the week. I did offer it to you a long time ago but you insist on a Mac version.

I wonder about these software. Nikon doesn't sell the software anymore and yet they can sue us for doing what we are doing right now.

Yes I do have it. Let me find it.

Thank you very much. I got it but I found out it's primarily for the F100. With the F5 you can't use it for custom settings or remote control. It's only good for downloading shooting data (the feature which I don't care for. I only use this feature to erase the shooting data).

I have the v1 software and the MC-33 cable. Would be great if you can send me the v2 software.

I used 2 26700 LiFePO4 batteries rated at 6000mAh. Hold charge for a long time unlike the NiMH.

I believe the vibrator is to create AC from DC in order to step up the voltage. Newer flashes of course use solid state inverter.

Only the top of the line cameras have removable clock battery. Others you have to send it to Nikon.

The storage slot is in the battery holder.

Did you lose the MD cover?

But the mark wasn't caused by light leak though.

Thank you! I use a Minolta Booster II connected to an oscilloscope and I measured it to be 67mS. Which agrees with what you said.

How much time is between a Nikon i-TTL flash (like the SB-800) fires the preflash before it fires the main flash?

If Nikon made their mount in Sendai up to a few years ago at least I guess the problem coming from moving all camera products away from Sendai.

I wonder which company they had made these lens mount parts for them?

Canon A-1 manual recommended both the silver oxide and alkaline batteries. I would consider Canon to be incompetent if they released a camera in that period of time 1979 and need precise battery voltage for accurate metering. It's simply not the case.

As I have told you on the Photrio forum that you should consult the service manual. There are many voltage points at the bottom of the camera you can check and find out what is wrong. First I would recommend you to check and see if the camera still function correctly as a meterless camera in manual? You want to veify that the electronic shutter control is still functioning. Then you can also check if the automatic shutter still function. The display circuit is separate and can be malfunction alone. If you don't have the service manual let me know.

The shutter failed on my FE (I don't have an FE2). The shutter in any camera can fail in 5 years (let alone 30 plus years) but I wouold say the percentage isn't big. You just have to buy another FE2. Even back in the 80's I don't think replacing the shutter is economical vs buying another camera (although you could buy a brand new camera with warranty back then). In April 1984 B&H was selling the FE2 body for $219.99. And my Maxxum 7 is dead and so I can't call it oustanding. My F3 (1982) is still working great.

When you buy a miro SD card it usually comes with the adapter to use it in an SD card slot. Yes I would use it if I am in the OP situation.

I am surprised that they let Warhol get away with it for almost 40 years.

The Z9 and Z8 are not only the only Z without mechanical shutter they are the only cameras without mechanical shutter (don't count phone and some P&S).