s_l26

<p>Hey there, <br> I'm going to be moving to Zone 1 London in September and I'm looking for a good photo lab to take my C41 rolls. I'll be developing b/w at home but I am looking for a decently priced, quick turnaround lab near the UCL campus where I'll be staying. <br> Right now, in Canada, I spend $4.50 per roll for C41 processing, which works out to be about 2.75 quid I also get the negatives back the same day. So far the best price I've found at labs in London is 5 quid per roll. Are there any other photo labs offering cheaper developing? Or is this the best deal I'm going to get in London? <br> Thanks in advance.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Star trails - start at f4 for an hour. Then experiment.</p> </blockquote> <p><a name="pagebottom"></a><br />Is this for 400 speed film? Also if I wanted to cut that exposure time in half, would it be logical to shoot at f/2 instead? </p>

<p>I'm going to be camping on a very remote beach this weekend with little to no light pollution so I want to take advantage and take some astrophotography shots. I'll be shooting with a Leica M3 w/ Summicron 50mm f/2 and a Yashica Mat-124 with 80mm f/3.5 lens. <br /><br />Using ISO 400 film, shooting both cameras wide open (f/2 and f/3.5), what kinds of shutter speeds should I be using to get a decent exposure? <br> <br />Would I be in the 1-5 minutes territory or should I be more in the neighbourhood of 1-5 hours? I really have no idea since I've never done long exposures on film before, but as long as a I have a general idea of what kind of shutter speed I need, I can take several different exposures. <br /><br />Preferably I would like to have exposures under an hour (under 30 minutes would be ideal), since I do not want to have to stay up all night watching my tripod. What kind of settings would yield useable results with shutter speeds under an hour? <br /><br />I would like to get shots of both still stars as well as star trails, so if someone could let me know generally what kind of exposure settings I could use for those respectively, that would be awesome. </p>

<blockquote> <p>Are the shutter blades visibly coated with oil? That would cause them to stick to each other and be unable to move. Very common problem with leaf shutter cameras of this vintage.<br />Easily repaired by a competent camera repair person.</p> </blockquote> <p>Nope, the shutter blades are very visibly clean and have no moisture or grease/oil on them. They look like they are in great shape. </p>

<blockquote> <p>Just tried (and I know mine to be working perfectly fine, as I've used it a lot recently), and after opening the backdoor, you can advance 3 times befores it cocks the shutter - also without film. After those three time, it starts to behave "normally (=cocking shutter and blocking advance).</p> </blockquote> <p>Yes I'm aware that the first 3-4 advances do not cock the shutter, however if you read my original post you will see that I can advance until the 36th exposure and the shutter never charges/cocks.</p>

<blockquote> <p>If you don't have an operating manual, you can get one here for free (although he appreciates a small donation for his work in copying all these old manuals): <a href="http://www.cameramanuals.org/canon_pdf/canon_canonet_ql17.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.cameramanuals.org/canon_pdf/canon_canonet_ql17.pdf</a></p> </blockquote> <p><a name="pagebottom"></a><br />Hmm, there's nothing in that manual describing the issues I have. </p>

<blockquote> <p>Maybe it's not picking up the film leader? I was a bit surprised when I got mine (not long ago) that after inserting the film, you have to advance a few times without actually triggering the shutter - much as what you describe it does all along. So not sure, but sounds like it's simply not picking up your film.</p> </blockquote> <p><a name="pagebottom"></a><br /><br />Actually this is with no film in the camera at all. I just got the camera and I'm not loading any film in until I know its working 100%<br /><br />Shouldn't the shutter still cock and fire even without any film loaded? </p>

<p>So I recently got a Canonet QL17 (not the GIII version) and there seems to be a huge issue with the camera. The film advance lever will crank, and it will just keep cranking and cranking without the shutter ever cocking. I can literally keep winding the lever until it reaches exposure 36 without ever touching the shutter release. <br> When I try to press the shutter, nothing happens. No buzz, no click, nothing. This happens on all apertures and shutter speeds. Also, whenever I wind the film advance lever, the little window goes red to indicate the shutter is cocked, then when I release the lever and it goes back to its resting position, the little window goes back to white, indicating that the shutter is uncocked. The same phenomenon occurs when I press the shutter. Press down, window goes red. Release button, window returns to white. <br> In other words my shutter will not cock and I can wind the film advance lever all day long. <br> Any suggestions? </p>

<p>I'm finally ready to jump into the world of medium format and I need some suggestions for a good beginner's system. I prefer 6x6, and I am looking to spend $200-300. I really like the Bronica SQ series but it seems to be a bit outside my price range. The Mamiya M645 looks like a solid choice for the price but I really would rather have 6x6. Are there any other SLRs out there that priced similar to the M645 but in 6x6? Bonus points for having lots of ready available parts available second hand. </p>

<p>Hey guys, thanks for all your responses. <br> I actually managed to fix my issue with relative ease! It was just an issue with the contacts on the shutter-holding electromagnet. I just gave the contacts a quick swab and now it works perfectly! <br> I'm glad I was able to fix the camera with such ease. Thanks for all your help guys.</p>

<blockquote> <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=5373843">paul wheatland</a> , Mar 17, 2016; 03:32 p.m.</p> <p>I have had two AE-1, A-1, and now have AE<em>-1program. Net</em>None had the Canon "cough" nor any other issues. My present Canon is AE-1Program and it's features to me override my objections to the other two models! Your camera malfunction is serious and expensive. Find a program model like mine, which cost me $30US a year ago, needing nothing! All Canons cost me less than $35US each within the last few years!<a name="pagebottom"></a></p> </blockquote> <p>While I appreciate your response I think your advice is incredibly anecdotal and does not really apply to my situation. I'm looking for anyone who has had similar problems and how they found a DIY solution. </p>

<blockquote> <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=5884186">Mark Zell</a> , Mar 17, 2016; 02:21 p.m.</p> <p>I had a similar problem with my A-1. On a winter trip to Minnesota the mirror slowed way down (I can't remember if the shutter was slow as well), and I blamed the cold weather. I would recommend having your AE-1 checked out by a technician. Ken Oikawa in California worked on my A-1 and I was pleased with his service and price. Check out this thread for more info on Mr. Oikawa.<br /><a href="/canon-fd-camera-forum/00dXFj" rel="nofollow">http://www.photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/00dXFj</a><br />It's true that AE-1 bodies can be had for less cost than a professional servicing. But if you get your current AE-1 serviced there is a good chance it will last many more years. Buying a different AE-1 may come with a different set of problems. Anyway, I can recommend Mr. Oikawa from personal experience, and I'd suggest at least giving him a call.</p> </blockquote> <p>Sending it out to Mr Oikawa seems like too big of a hassle for my situation. For one thing, I live in Canada. I'm looking for a DIY solution to this problem. </p>

<p>So I am back here yet again after my previous thread. To recap my issue: <br> I have a Canon AE-1 that I bought second hand. Everything seems to be in great shape except the shutter curtain and mirror. When I pick up my camera and take a shot, the shutter seems to be sticky or slow for the first 3-4 frames. Note: my shutter is NOT squeaky, it sounds perfectly fine. To clarify, the shutter curtain and the mirror both open and close at the same time. Everything is in sync. However, even if my shutter speed is set to 1/1000, when I pick up the camera and take a shot, it seems the first 3-4 shots lag up. The shutter will open for 1/2 sec too long, or sometimes it will even stay open for 1-2 seconds. It should be noted that this problem only occurs after the first 3-4 shots after the camera has not been used for a while (after 30 minutes or so). After these "warm up" shots, the shutter seems to operate at the correct speed. <br> This is an incredibly infuriating issue! I want nothing more than to get into film photography and this small problem is getting in my way. I have tried the repair job for the shutter squeak (applying oil into the front screw hole) but this did not fix my problem! After waiting for weeks for the lubricant I ordered to arrive in the mail and attempting this repair job to no avail, I am close to giving up. What else can I try! I am out of ideas. The camera otherwise is in incredible shape and this seems like such a minor issue. Any help is appreciated. </p>

<p><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1608/24849006214_4e0dad3d3e_h.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="989" /><br /><br />Canon AE-1, FD 50mm f/1.8, Portra 400</p>

<blockquote> <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=1180551">Jeff Owen</a><a href="/member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub10plus.gif" alt="" /></a>, Mar 01, 2016; 02:05 p.m.<br />Try to adjust (increase) the canvas size to meet the aspect ratio required. You may have to give the border a neutral colour so that the border appears as part of the image. I do this all the time when I send off my photos to be printed by a shop.<br />One easy way is to increase the canvas significantly and then crop back to the ratio you want.</p> </blockquote> <p>Sorry, which software do I use to do this? Thanks for your response. </p>