jean_yves_mead

<p>Messing around with Polypan F:<br> <a href=" title="M3_50mmf2Summicron_PolypanF_Scan-140711-0006 by Jean-Yves, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14630888885_8ffd84d197_z.jpg" width="421" height="640" alt="M3_50mmf2Summicron_PolypanF_Scan-140711-0006"></a><br> (Leica M3, 50mm f/2 Summicron)</p>

A screw-in lens hood and suitable neck-strap should give your camera all the support and protection it needs when you're out and about, while making it immediately available whenever you need it; add a padded pouch for when you put it in your bag.

<p><a href=" title="F2_5.8cmf1.4_400- 2TMY_Scan-140414-0008 by Jean-Yves, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5276/14249592772_5b7df2493b_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="F2_5.8cmf1.4_400-2TMY_Scan-140414-0008"></a><br> Nikon F2, 5.8cm f/1.4 Nikkor-S, Tmax 400</p>

Perhaps it is fogged. Have you tested your fixer?

<p>Look at the patch in the middle of the viewfinder. You should see a smaller section of the scene overlaid on the main image through the finder; the smaller image should move as you focus the lens. When it lines up with the main image, the lens is focussed correctly. You can find more details about rangefinders <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rangefinder_camera">here</a>.</p> <p> The framelines are moving as you focus to correct for changes in parallax and field of view, necessary because you're not viewing through the lens. </p>

It's a lovely piece of work. I'm glad you showed it here.

It does look like a film-to-film printer, similar to the Leica ELDIA.

<p>Film speed (ISO) affects the flash's effective guide number (an indication of its illuminating power). <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guide_number">Guide number</a> and distance to target together indicate the appropriate aperture setting. <br> By the way, the flash sync speed on your shutter dial is the fastest shutter speed at which the frame is exposed fully. You can use slower speeds if you want to, and still have full flash coverage. </p>

In any event I would suggest that you avoid the Brownies, just because they take a film size (620) that is no longer in general production - there are enthusiasts out there respooling 120 film, but the supply is spotty and not guaranteed, and DIY is too much hassle just to feed something so crude.

If you're familiar and comfortable with OSX then the only compelling reason to switch to Windows would be cost (and this completely ignores the issue of any hardware warranty). In your position I'd probably just buy a new iMac.

Fuji FP100C (EI 100 colour) and FP3000B (EI 3000 B&W), size 3.25"x4.25".

I should have said that the Tamron's barrel distortion is at the wide end. At 35mm it's not a problem, and in any case may not matter depending on your subject. You wouldn't use it for architectural photography but for wide-angle portraits and the like it's perfectly fine.

The Tamron 17-35mm f2.8-4 17-35MM F/2.8-4 Di LD Alphabet Soup is a fairly low-cost way to get a wide-angle A/F lens. It's pretty sharp but does have heavy barrel distortion close-up. The widest suitable rectilinear lens I can think of is the Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6, although I don't recall any version of this as being particularly cheap.

Do you use the camera's meter? Yes. Do you use a handheld meter? Yes. A phone app? No. Do you use your intuition? Yes. Do you do average or spot metering? Either, depending on circumstances. Do you do it mostly always the same way or does it depend on the circumstance? Depends on circumstances.

T-mount or Adaptall, perhaps? The Leica R has one of the longest flange focal distances of all the 35mm SLRs, so I wouldn't expect to see many adapters to use other dedicated lens mounts. Universal adapter systems are probably your best bet. Of course if it's purely for display purposes then you could just grab a suitably-styled M-42 lens and a few packs of sugru.

Not quite... the Snapshot-Skopar is the first version of the 25mm f/4 (screw mount, scale focus). All the 35mm CV lenses couple to the rangefinder (the 35mm f/2.5 lenses all carry the Color-Skopar name). I certainly wouldn't argue against the CV 35mm f/2.5 - I found the LTM version to be sharp and contrasty, with very pleasant rendering, and I don't believe the optical design has changed through the subsequent versions.

Philip - presumably you mean the various Cosina-Voigtlander Color-Skopars. The Snapshot-Skopar is one of the few scale-focus lenses that Cosina made for Leica mount cameras. It's a great little lens, but not so good as an introduction to rangefinder cameras. Christopher - the modern Voigtlanders are fine cameras, and likely will give you years of reliable service. I'd suggest a Bessa T or R2 at the minimum as they use Leica's bayonet mount, which in turn can easily accommodate the earlier screw-mount lenses.

Even though it comes as a set of powders, Diafine would make it about as easy as you could possibly get.

I still shoot slides as an occasional treat because, while I prefer the handling of my film cameras, I just can't get good colour accuracy when scanning colour negatives (my colour work is usually digital).

If you did, you'd end up with a wide-angle close-up lens (unless you're willing to take an angle-grinder to your dSLR) with no way to focus further than a foot or two. Seems a waste of a pretty neat lens.

Your file type associations sound screwy - .bin is a binary file extension, not playable media.

I suspect that Rick is referring to a copy of the user manual for a Nikon SB-600 speedlight.

Another suggestion that I've yet to try, is to give the reels a 30-second spin stood on edge in a salad crisper before hanging out the film.

<p> <ol> <li>No problems there. Developer and fixer don't interact anyway.</li> <li>Try the Ilford washing method using tap water at processing temperature, and save the distilled water for the final rinse: <ul> <li>fill with tap water, give five inversions, pour away water.</li> <li>fill with tap water, give ten inversions, pour away water.</li> <li>fill with tap water, give twenty inversions, pour away water.</li> <li>fill with distilled water + wetting agent (if desired), soak for one minute, pour away water.</li> <li>dry film.</li> <li>have a beer to celebrate.</li> </ul> </li> </ol> </p>

<a href=" title="EPM40840 by ruby.monkey, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/13940700074_ba3e174032_z.jpg" width="640" height="640" alt="EPM40840"></a>