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jean_yves_mead

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Everything posted by jean_yves_mead

  1. <blockquote>I'm still a bit vague how you open and close the trap once you get it fitted to the camera.</blockquote> <p> To open - press down on the rewind knob and turn it anticlockwise (looking down on it) as far as possible. <br/> To close - same as above, except turning clockwise (the same direction as you turn to rewind the film). <br> (Adjust direction for cameras that load backwards) </p>
  2. <a href=" title="twinkle by Jean-Yves, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/15168070022_2d6feff26c_c.jpg " width="529" height="800" alt="twinkle"></a>
  3. <p><a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/">Rangefinder forum</a>, which you've already mentioned, would be more than happy to welcome you - there's a love there of classic cameras of all sorts. <a href="http://www.apug.org/forums/home.php">APUG</a> is another forum that has many fans of such cameras.</p>
  4. I just bought a couple of these, with box and instructions, for £3 apiece (a bit of luck since on eBay they seem to go for £20 or more). They're neat little items, and a hell of a big improvement over the plastic felt-trap reloadables I've been using up 'til now. The hard bit is finding cameras into which they'll fit.
  5. That lip at the end makes it look like it's for a Graflok back. What size is it?
  6. <p>The Pro S is marked as such on the body ("Pro S" on the lens board, "Professional S" along the upper sides). <a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?MamiyaRB67.html~mainFrame">See here for more details</a>.</p>
  7. Unless you're hard-up for money, I'd say open it up and savour being the first to use it.
  8. The original Pentax 645 has the most accurate finder of the Pentax models for manual focus (but it is dimmer than that of the 645N and NII because of this). Any Mamiya 645 with waist-level finder, however, will give a brighter and larger finder image, which makes nailing focus easier. Both are comparable when using eye-level finders, and both are easy enough to focus manually that I wouldn't base my choice primarily on this.
  9. You need 100-series pack film (size 3.25" x 4.25"). Fuji FP100C (ISO100 colour) is, I think, your only in-production option.
  10. <p><a href=" title="M3_50mmf2Summicron_Fomapan400_Scan-140822-0003 by Jean-Yves, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5589/14814216809_4196064684_z.jpg" width="640" height="424" alt="M3_50mmf2Summicron_Fomapan400_Scan-140822-0003"></a><br> Leica M3, 50mm f/2 Summicron, Fomapan 400</p>
  11. For general use you need the exposure control ring set to auto, and the ISO dial should be set to the film's speed. Setting it to a higher speed will result in your shots being underexposed, which is not something you want with normal colour film; setting it to a slightly lower speed can be useful since it will lead to a little overexposure which is generally benign or even helpful with the sort of film you're using.
  12. <p>You may find <a href="http://www.afghanboxcamera.com/">this site</a> of interest.</p>
  13. <a href=" title="fierce by Jean-Yves, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14938773686_53bbb3326b_z.jp g" width="640" height="480" alt="fierce"></a>
  14. Looks like you should have chosen a much higher shutter speed. The motion blur makes it difficult to see if there's also a focussing issue. Edit - looking at the EXIF data, you used 1/160s with a focal length of 300mm, f/14, ISO 200. Hand shake, plus the subject's own motion, is going to give you an unsharp image, no matter what else happens.
  15. The 5N can take an electronic viewfinder, which can make it much more pleasant and effective for focussing and framing.
  16. <p>And <a href=" shoots</a>, given the right conditions.</p><p>Camera phones are good and still getting better, but a good compact will give you faster handling, the full range of physical controls you need, and a much greater chance of getting the photo you want when the conditions are against you.</p>
  17. The rangefinder versions of the 85mm f/2 are a classic five-elements-in-three-groups Sonnar design, like the early 105mm f/2.5; the SLR version is a different, five-elements-in-five-groups configuration. Personally I like both, but YMMV.
  18. Have you actually been disappointed with the image quality you get from the 85mm f/2?
  19. It's not in production but there are instructions available showing how to sort-of reload a 126 cartridge. Unless you *really* want that particular model I'd suggest that you give it a miss.
  20. What aperture will you be shooting at? f/16 at 1/500s would be 'normal' in broad daylight, and f/8 under the same conditions would be well within XP2's capability. However many stops you'd wish to shoot wider open than that in those conditions, will give you a starting point for your ND filter. Don't forget to factor in any contrast filter you might choose to use as well. You may end up not needing an ND filter at all.
  21. At the moment I have an E-PM1 with the Panasonic 25mm f/1.4 DG-Summicron and Olympus 45mm f/1.8 M.Zuiko, and they are both superb lenses. I'm considering either the 12mm f/2 or 14mm f/2.5, and that would be my needs pretty much covered. The Panaleica isn't cheap, even used, but it's a lens that'll put a smile on your face every time you take it out.
  22. <p>Looks like a tarted-up Zorki C. Some details <a href="http://www.sovietcams.com/index.php? 531215525">here</a><br/><br/> Note that if it is a Zorki C, then the rewind switch is the collar around the shutter release.</p>
  23. <a href=" title="R0016875 by Jean-Yves, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7335/10448352886_5746293520_z.jp g" width="640" height="480" alt="R0016875"></a>
  24. All the m-4/3 adapters I've tried (including Voigtlander's offerings) let the lens focus past infinity. Not the end of the world but something to remember if you're in the habit of spinning the lens to its end stop to snap far-off subjects - and it also means that you can't rely on your lenses' distance markings. Actually focussing lenses on a m-4/3 body, on the other hand, is a doddle. The combination of instant magnification and brightness compensation makes for a very manual-focus-friendly platform.
  25. <a href=" title="M3_50mmf2Summicron_PolypanF_Scan-140711-0010 by Jean-Yves, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2923/14444568807_23d4b08cc3_z.jpg" width="640" height="424" alt="M3_50mmf2Summicron_PolypanF_Scan-140711-0010"></a> <p>(M3, 50mm Summicron, Polypan F)</p>
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