lubos_soltes

<p>I've seen it on dpreview ... looks like a horrible contraption to me. And since it is pictured with a H system lens, I doubt and adapter for V system lenses will ever exist.<br> <br />The LCD "focusing screen" nailed the coffin for me.</p>

<p>oh the good old film days ... you bought a roll of film and used it in the size you wanted/needed ... 645, 6x6, 6x7 etc. now you have to buy a whole new camera to change the format with different rendering characteristics and all ...<br> <br />but generally I like what Fuji is doing ... at least they are widening the choice of camera ...</p>

<p>looks like the roll was not rolled correctly and the edges of the film were either lose or the backing paper was a hair narrower and did not cover the whole film ...</p>

<p>Have you by chance rotated the back between the frames ? Might be that the rotation is not complete and the gears do not mesh properly ?</p> <p>When you are rotating the back, the first thing that happens when you switch to the R position is that the winding gear is disconnected.</p>

<p>Hello Csaba,</p> <p>For used medium format, have a look at Prolaika in Bratislava or Foto-Skoda in Prague. Also there are some usable shops in Austria I think (no personal experience).</p> <p>As to the camera, I'd say RZ67 (I have one). 6x7, rotating back, you can use RB lenses if needed. A bit lighter than RB and the battery is not that much of a problem.</p> <p>However a basic RZ setup (body, back, wlf, 110mm lens) is around 2kg so it IS heavier than a 7D.</p>

<p>scan directly from glass, see how it works. works for me very well on a V500 ...</p>

<p>hmmm well I have a V500, so don't know how that compares, but I cut my film 3/3/2/2 ... basically I scan 2 in the holder, then rotate the film to get the last one upside down ... that's then using holders.</p> <p>however normally I scan directly from glass and there's no problem with 3 frames.</p>

<p>Do you plan to go the full way to MF Digital ? If not, start with the Bronicas (ETRSi or SQAi) or Mamiya 645 Pro variant.</p>

<p>If you need long exposures, stay with 35mm DSLRs. While the new CMOS backs are good at long exposures, they are out of your budget.</p> <p>The Pentax 645Z is a compromise of both worlds. You should test if it works for you. It has some limitations for a general MFD camera (lack of leaf-shutter lenses, no upgrade path other than whole body swap, no separate back to use on view/technical cams).</p>

<p>tripod, split prism focusing screen ...<br> <br />I only have the 110/f2.8 but focusing is not a problem. My main enemy is my lack of standards. Shooting hand-held is the main problem :-)</p>

<p>While both cameras are good pieces of kit, I don't think they are suitable for the intended purpose.</p> <p>I had a Bronica ETRSi and now have an RZ 67. The main problem is the lack of AF (AE can be worked around).</p> <p>I'd recommend a Contax or AFD for kids ...</p>

<p>Does the shutter close when you fire the lens unmounted ?</p>

<p>Hello Ray</p> <p>I am quite confused what you are trying to accomplish. The spot multimetering has one purpose, to check the scene and see how it fits your available medium (film or digital) dynamic range. Basically you meter highlights, shadows and mids and see how far apart they are. Then you decide how you expose.<br> F.e. If I am shooting a high contrast scene on negative film, I meter the scene and see where my shadows fall (the weak point of negative film) and set the exposure so that I am within my film range in the shadows. I can adjust/recover highlights later in processing.<br> <br />Similar with digital, If I can recover 2 stops of highlight data from RAW then I meter the scene and expose accordingly, then do the rest in post. With 758, you can calibrate it to your camera so it actually warns you that the scene is outside your DR range which is very usefull.</p>

<p>no clue about the RZ (have not tested it), but my ETRSi did this as well ... and there was nothing wrong with it... basically you get one flash at the closing of the shutter ....</p>

<p>3 and 4 are newton rings. however they do not generally come from the scanner itself. I do scan negatives directly on the scanner glass and if they are not covered on the top, I don't get newton rings. however they can be produced by stains on the scanner glass.<br> so clean the scanner glass properly and clean the film.</p>