BrianS1664879711

They are suffibiently similar. Hoya is a high quality brand.

Another good book is Roger Hicks "Perfect Exposure". Much more user friendly and broader in scope than Adams... But The Neg sure is a classic for B&W

<p>p.s. Whatever you do... get going NOW. They grow up fast. My kids posed a lot for me when they were young but as teens that gets much less frequent due to busy schedules, etc. In MF I use 150 and 250mm on 6x6. :)</p>

<p>For the kind of work you are talking about, Dave, I'd avoid field and press cameras like the plague. And I do love field and press cameras, but not for head-and-shoulders work. But a monorail with a 250 or 300 (although I've "gotten by" with a 190 and 210) is what you need, as well as a "set" that includes chair, stool, and/or table to facilitate posing. For me the biggest concern is the sharpness of the lens... most are too sharp. A dedicated soft-focus lens is really worthwhile but some of the SF filters work good enough. Older lens designs like Tessar and even Rapid Rectilinears are useful but even they can be "too sharp". Iv'e successfully shot most of my portrait work in natural light (including indoors) but I can see how strobes (or even hot lights) would be a big benefit. Not to dissuade you in any way, but if you can't do it in MF the chances of doing it in LF is slim.</p>

Tip: shoot MF and if that works well consider LF, but not an time before. Wisdom: yes it can be done. Prepare for lots of failure to accompany the successes. Don't sweat the cost; it's just money.

<p><a href="mailto:L@@k">L@@k</a> here:</p> <p>http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps%20how%20load%20bulk.html</p>

Those shutters are not easy to fix unless you have experience. Seriously consider the investment of a professional servicing if it means anything to you.

Whatever you do, don't force it or you'll break the shutter. It needs a complete servicing.

Regular threads - righty righty, lefty Lucy.

Same with rear element.

Yes, it just screws off. Sometimes difficult to get started. Do not use harsh tools for gripping though.

It just needs to be tight enough to not back out during use. Just out of curious its, who is "we"?

Tapered works great in those shutters

Don't know the answer but another way of looking at it is, what is more important to you: getting the shots you want or making the gear last as long as possible?

<p>Hmmm. Good luck with selling your script. I know one thing for sure: you wouldn't find me on your casting room couch auditioning for the lead role.</p>

Yes

The only ones I've ever had a problem with are the really long ones.

Modern cable releases are universal.

<p>My answer is probably not the one you want to hear, but I think you should consider having it professionally overhauled. Won't be inexpensive but you won't regret it.</p>

<p>In my family (and experience) Lex's #3 is #1. That works the best for me.</p>

<p>What a shame. I've always found you to be interesting, to have reasonable opinions/guidance, and to be a valuable member. But I understand how frustrating the internet can be. Good luck to you on your future pursuits and don't forget that you can always return if you change your mind.</p>

<p>Good for you, Gordon... and thanks for letting us know how it went!</p>

How rude that would be to charge first baseman with an error if the ball was thrown so it was uncatchable.

<p>Read and weep... this is about all that is left (unless you want to buy old outdated film):</p> <p>http://www.freestylephoto.biz/category/4-Film/Color-Slide-Film</p> <p>You'll find similar selection at B&H, Adorama, or almost any other camera store still selling film.</p>

<p>That has been all over the news here in Los Angeles. Can't wait to see how far it will go in the courts.</p>