BrianS1664879711

What is it about your photography that attracts police in the first place?

<p><strong>DABDA (Kübler-Ross)</strong> :<br />Denial <br />Anger <br />Bargaining <br />Depression<br />Acceptance.</p> <p>I'm at the second "D", getting close to the second "A".</p>

<p>I was that kid once upon a time and while I'm tempted to say that nothing but time will solve the problem, let me suggest that Jochen Schrey has a great idea. But most of the problem, if I can put myself in his shoes (again) is that he may be shy and spending too much time hoping for luck on dating sites. Photography is only one aspect and maybe even the least concern. A less detached courtship approach, as hard as it may be, is probably best - talk to lots of girls, ask a bunch out, and be tough when the rejections happen. They happen but at some point an acceptance will too.</p>

<p>Nikon F3 is specifically designed to allow double exposure. The "little button on the bottom" is, I believe, a hack that can be done with almost any 35mm camera.</p>

<p>...</p>

<p>Fear not Chas, not offended at all. Those kind of comment though seem quite unnecessary for someone with otherwise good writing skills. If that is an important part of your message I support your right to state it though. I totally agree that photography has many variables that can be exploited and often there are many ways yo achieve same or similar end product. For shadow detail I'd be attending to film choice and exposure, and as you point out - printing, long befor worrying about lens coatings</p>

That weird symbol was supposed to be a face with winking eye

I didn't read "better" into the OP as much as I read that the same magic may be possible using multiple methods. But why bash Americans when you just said (no matter how correct you may be) that platinum-palladium is better than... A bit ironic, dontcha think? �

<p>Well good for the ACLU. Law enforcement is sworn to uphold end enforce the law, not make up what they think should be new laws. Sometimes they seem to forget that and need a stern reminder.</p>

<p>As Don Bright has testified... yes, that will fix things up to the point where the lens will probably act just like it did when initially purchased. The cost isn't very much. A few years ago it was about $50 at a Nikon Authorized repair shop.</p>

<p>There are good reasons for pointing an incident meter at light sources - PLURAL - when computing lighting ratios. But for most normal usage the process is to point the dome at the lens. JimDoty and a very few others give incorrect advise. Caveat: the meter must be in the same/similar light as the subject. Any good book on photographic exposure published since about 1940 can explain the various uses of incident light metering and the conditions when it works.</p>

<p>I worry about Michael's item #3: I believe in court the question of the photographer's ability to book an alternate gig for that date may cloud the issue. If the cancellation was last minute it may be cut-and-dried; if the cancellation is months ahead of time then the photographer could be accused of "not trying" and using that as an excuse to unjustifiably keep the deposit (no matter what the contract says verbatim). That is what I've seen in small claims... judge who insists on seeing a reasonable attempt from the vendor to recover from an unanticipated change of plans from flakey clients... meaning the cancellation denied the vendor of any reasonable chances of getting work for the "reserved" date. And if the photographer actually performs work on the date that was reserved and cancelled I think the argument is completely null. What say you lawyers?</p> <p>Re: John's settlement idea: YES... settle by returning the deposit if its not a last minute cancellation. Then seek to book another job!</p>

<p>I know this is going to sound very "20th century", but stop texting and dial the phone number to have a conversation. Make an appointment to meet, and then talk it out and get a commitment on a delivery date. Bring a copy of the original contract and all of the materials in case there are questions about what you want done to complete the delivery.</p>

<p>Been there, but I wasn't a "real" pro trying to earn a full-time living from photography. The conversation is difficult no matter. I would always make sure the conversation that leads up to the "further discussion" was obvious that I was trying to start up a part-time business and had to make some money to make ends meet. Try these words, "I'm setting up (or in) business so I can pay my rent and buy food." If you are a full-time, then it is even more imperative to make that clear... especially when solicited by someone who is clearly implying that the job be a freebie. Being open to trade may make that more palatable.</p>

<p>I "fourth" that suggestion. And my best wishes are with you on this decision... my son is doing the same thing also. Most important to know is that you shouldn't freak out about being unsure about your career objectives. Get a degree in learning how to learn (which ideally will allow you to get a job that produces a stable income) and go from there with the pursuit of art.</p>

<p>Perhaps the majority of former participants have work and are busy... including the " know-it-all boisterous ones".</p>

<p>B&H or Freestyle. Haven't you done a quick internet search, or are yo asking if they are good people to deal with? If the latter... yes they are.</p>

<p>"The sellers response indicates his general disposition."</p> <p>As does postings like this indicate the general disposition of people who get all fired up about an auction which they have no involvement...</p> <p>The first message was informative. After that not so much.</p> <p>It is sad... very sad. </p>

<p>Have you tried compensating to achieve additional exposure. You might find a bit more success.</p>

<p>Head south on I-25 instead: Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs</p>

Another classic New England response: use 24 exposure film. They will rewind faster than a 36 exposure film Happy Holidays!

The rewind is an ATTRIBUTE, not a problem. Mine is slow but doesn't take 5-minutes. If you need to rewind faster then a Retina is not the camera for you. That is an equipment selection issue.

<p>Your lens has a PC fitting. If your flash has one also then you need a PC-PC cord to connect them. If your flash has a proprietary fitting then you need a cord that is PC-"whatever that proprietary fitting is". If your flash is hotshoe only, you can get a PC-hotshoe cord. I think you have more of a "I need the right cord" than a "can I do it" question.</p> <p>Best place to get cords for these kinds of applications is to have one made. <br> http://www.paramountcords.com/<br> If you have a C-lens (will have X-M-V setting) make sure that it is set to X.</p>

<p>Thanks, QG... you took the words right out of my mouth!</p>

<p>Shutter probably needs an overhaul. When dirty and unlubed they can exhibit odd behavior, like an unwillingness to work correctly. That could be causing undesired friction on the cocking ring.</p>