greg_nixon2

Konica Auto S2 | Flickr. When I was trying to resurrect the 2 that I have here, I took some detailed photos. I hope that they can be of some use to you.

Really good photos as always Rick. That Sun zoom is no slouch. I have a Sun 39-90 F3.5. macro, it's mounted on a Praktica PL Nova 1b, M42 with stopdown pin. Maybe I should get it out and run some tests. "One odd feature is a sort of built-in flash exposure calculator, something I've not come across on a lens," If you flash has a guide number then you shouldn't need a distance scale. The distance is set by the guide no. eg if you have a flash with a GN say 100, then from the lens, set the the aperture to 22. Same for the other flash guide numbers and apertures. The max distance using the GN chart, is 18.4 feet (5.6m). If your flash has electronic feedback then it will stop the flash when the subject has been correctly illuminated. If no feedback then set your lens to the correct aperture by following the guide no. chart. This excludes zoom flashes and automatic camera driven flashes. I can't seem to find a suitable guide no chart. Cheers

Hi Gary, I'm impressed. A Kodak Tourist I and II both with Anastigmat Special lenses. The windmill photo is very good, nice and sharp from top to bottom. There are a couple of Anastigmat Specials on eBay at the moment, one with fungus on its front element and a shutter that needs a service, I'll pass on that one. Then there is one fitted to a Six-20 which looks ok. I'll check with Father Xmas. I too have to take some cameras out for a run, and I also agree about the better view finder using the Tourist II. Cheers

Hi Gary, It looks like the transplant worked well. I have a Kodak Monitor, identical to your donor camera, same lens same shutter. It does work well. I also have a Kodak Tourist or two with the Flash Kodamatic shutter and Anaston lens. I have thought that a Tourist II camera with its longer view finder base would be well served with an Anastigmat special, or Anstar lens. Your Tourist I has a Rapid 800 shutter, which has copped some bad press about reliability problems. Having said that, I would assume that you get some decent images with it.

I've always used this list for film/frames list for ZI cameras No code: 6x4.5 on 120 (16 exposures) [but see below] /1 4.5x10.7cm plate (stereo) or 8x10.5cm rollfilm (maybe Kodak 124?) /2 6x9cm on 120 (8 exposures) /3 6.5x9cm sheet/plate /4 13x18mm(?) stereo /5 8x10.5cm plate /6 5.5x3.25 inch (9x14cm) sheet or 8x14cm rollfilm (Kodak 122/3A) /7 9x12cm sheet/plate /9 10x15cm sheet/plate /11 13x18cm (5x7 inch) sheet/plate, for US/UK market? /12 4x6.5cm on 127 (8 exposures) /14 5x7.5cm on 129 film /15 6.5x11cm on 116 /16 6x6 on 120 (12 exposures) /17 Quarter plate (3.25 x 4.25 inch) /18 3x4cm on 127 (16 exposures) /20 18x24cm sheet/plate /24 24x36mm on 135 (standard 35mm) /27 24x24mm on 135

Great writeup and photos Hunter. Thanks for sharing.

If it's a 616 camera then I would expect the 620 spool would fit nicely, but who wants to mess about respooling 120 to 620. A 120 film should fit nicely between 116 spools. Give it a try and see, I know I had some trouble with the adaptors that I 3d printed. I can't find any film spool data at the moment.

116 film has a wider flange than 616 film. If you dont use the wider flange on 616 cameras, the roll of 120 will foul against the film magazine.

Yes it was ingenious. I have wondered how you would make an electronic version, Maybe using several row of leds. Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks for the extensive clarification Steve

At which end of the scale does the meter pointer sit when there is no power. Maybe you could include the schematic from the repair manual. A cds resistance varies from high value at low light, to low resistance at high light. When the resistance is high ie low light, not much current can pass though the cct. When the resistance is low ie high light more current can pass through the cct. Take the battery out and meter across the cell terminals at low and high lights.

Another dead thread.

I don't think I've ever seen Newton Rings, has any one got a picture or scan to show me what they look like. I'm using an Epson V800 with an Epson V700 4 strip 35mm negative holder, I initially thought having the 4 strip holder would speed up the scanning process, ie fewer changes of strips in the negative holder. This is not so. With the V800's 3 strip holder you have to load it twice for scanning a 36 frame film. Once for the first 18 frames and once again for the second 18. With the 4 strip holder, you still have to load it twice, once for the first 24 and then again for remaining 12 frames. Maybe Epson was on to something by offering two holders of each for format with the V850, load the next holder while the first one is scanning. Maybe I'll switch back to the 3 strip holders for their ability to hold the film flat. Isrd doesn't work on B&W, but you already knew that.

I can also confirm that it is an instant return mirror. I asked the same question about a repair manual on this site a few years ago. I couldn't find any free repair manuals online although Butkus has free owners manuals. I found a site which has a repair manual (Praktica (VEB) Nova 1 B Printed Manual (camera-manual.com)). Your costs then start to spiral, and you have to ask yourself if the repair is worthwhile. If you want to improve your camera repair skills, there are some cheap parts only cameras around. Maybe you could source one and make one from two. Good Luck

Pardon my abysmal ignorance James, what is B+W 022.